Swapping Robin out with Kohler today

[Marks481]

Someone will chime in about the lovejoy. If not, maybe start a separate thread with something like "how to align lovejoy connector" and someone will chime in.

Don't really see how it is possible for the pump to be misaligned, and don't see anyway you could adjust it.

The alignment between pump and engine is based upon the coupler and the bolting ring on the pump and engine. All of which are concentric. The most they can be misaligned is by the slop in the bolt holes, which should be on the order of a few 0.010".

I would put it up on blocks and solve your hydroback adjustment. Maybe that will solve the vibration.

 

[Frank Sorbello]

So, I put it it on blocks. She was turning over and firing but not starting. I noticed the wheels were moving while cranking. I gave it a rest. I knew I had the PTO switch mounted upside down. I decided to right the switch. While picking up on the dash plate, I moved it a little and had some sparking. Turned the PTO switch to the right position and secured. Tried to start again, and I have nothing. Could I have shorted out the ignition switch? Also, I am not 100% on a wire or two in there, by the lights and hour meter. Where the wire harness plugs into the ignition switch, there is one connector that is sideways that doesn't have a wire to it. Not sure?

My Uncle said the same thing as you about the coupler. While I was cranking, and the tractor on blocks, I didn't feel the vibration. I was looking for a fuse. Didn't see any other than the one on the oil temp sensor.
Thanks

 

[woodlandfarms]

Tim is correct from what my conversation was with the factory that makes lovejoys. There are of course ways you can get anything misalinged, but the design of lovejoys is so that they do couple correctly and any misalignement is managed by the rubber spider. If you have a new spider, and unworn couplers, everything should mesh up fine. Now if you have a soft spider (they make them) you can have things drift a bit.

But if you have a concern, a simple straigheede will tell you if your unit is aligned correctly. Spin the connection by hand, there sshould be no variance.

So here is a side story. I am sitting with my wifes cousin today on the patio having read this. He fixes Giga Yachts for a living (Boats over 150 feet). THey have tons of lovejoys. He taughe me something new which is in certain applications, ones where you continue to find wear on coupler (he equated it to an engine mated to a piston pump is one of the hardest things on a lovejoy). They have come up with a simple fix to reduce wear by offsetting the two devices by 1 degree. meaning the two shafts are not level all the way across but the pump or the engine is angled by one degree. This reduces wear. Go figure.

 

[Frank Sorbello]

I took the ignition switch out and tested with a multimeter, everything checks ok. I have no clue what could have shorted or why I don't have power to the ignition switch. It was a light spark. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

[Marks481]

Take a look at your fuel filter. Is it full of fuel or air? Maybe you just haven't cranked the engine enough to get fuel from the fuel tank to the engine. Sometimes it takes awhile to get my engine started after I run it dry and refill the tank.

Stupid question: did you put oil in the engine before trying to start it? These engines have an oil sensor that is (supposed to be) wired to shutdown the engine, although PT seems to ignore that..

 

[Frank Sorbello]

Found a blown fuse by the starter. It was tucked away by the starter. Changed it. She was cranking and firing but not running. I know some or at least one wire is wrong, because I don't have lights. Played around with the wires to hour meter. Blew the fuse again.
Tried starting and she finally took. She runs smooth. Wheels are spinning though. Definitely need to adjust Hydroback.

 

[Marks481]

Played around with the wires to hour meter. Blew the fuse again.
Tried starting and she finally took. She runs smooth.

awesome!

The wiring that PT does in these machines is pretty chintzy, and kind of a snarled mess. I have always meant to redo it, but it keeps running, so I never got around to it.

 

[Frank Sorbello]

Took it out today for a test drive. It is awesome. I can't believe it is the same tractor. I still have a few more adjustments to make. Terry helped me with adjusting the hydroback. I couldn't have done it without this forum and Terry. I wish I had did this 3 years ago.
Thank you all, I really appreciate all the help and feedback.

 

[ponytug]

Yeah!!! Many congratulations!

All the best,

Peter

 

[Digger 258]

It's just downright inspiring to read this thread from the beginning. Nice job!

 

[MossRoad]

.....
Moss, Can you check on this for me, the 2 wires that come from the fan, a blue one and a black one. My old harness was different, Terry says they are pretty much the same. I have one, I believe the blue one has a in line fuse and goes to one side of the oiler cooler sensor. The black line goes to the gas tank frame as a ground. On the old harness there is a white wire in a clear tube that goes to the other side of the oil cooler sensor.

The new harness I got from PT, has a blue wire that I believe goes to the oil cooler sensor. I am a bit confused. The schematic for the old robin I have is a little different from the new wire harness. And the colors are different.

Finally got to my machine. There are two wires coming from the fan.
- One goes to a grounding lug on the gas tank support.
- The other has an in-line fuse and goes to one side of the oil cooler temp switch.
On the second side of the oil cooler temp switch, there is one white wire in a clear plastic tube.
- That wire goes from that switch into several layers of heat shrink tubing that contains the PT wiring bundle and a plug that plugs into the engine's wiring plug. So, I cannot tell where that white wire in the tube is connected to without pulling off the heat shrink tubing. I tried putting a meter on one end of my white wire in the tube and onto the terminals of the plug, but I get nothing, so I'm guessing my white wire is broken somewhere (and why I've been powering the cooling fan for 11 years by switching it directly to 12v from the battery).

My PT wiring diagram shows the white wire from the temp sensor switch being tied to the white wire in the cable bundle that goes from the engine compartment to the dash board. Without dissecting my cable bundle, I can't be of further assistance. Sorry.

On a good note, congrats on getting yours running! Way to stick with it. :thumbsup:

 

[Frank Sorbello]

For those of you that have Robbins in your PT's and are considering converting to a Kohler, I am so glad I did it. I am very happy with the extra horsepower and love how easily it starts in frigid temperatures. I am by no means a mechanic, when I look back - it really wasn't too difficult at all. There is a wealth of knowledge in old posts right here, as well as a great group of people on this site that are always ready to help out. Terry at Power Trac is also a great help. Knowing what I know now, I wish I had done this three years ago.