Teach me the basics about plows

[HCJ]

I am considering a good plow to cut up food plots before discing. I know nothing about them so please clue me in on what would be recommended to pull behind a 68 hp M6800, 4 WD, with loaded ag tires. Soil varies, but has some clay and rocks. My disc just doesn't cut well unless it is somewhat wet. I was thinking a plow used first would speed up discing. Do many of you use a plow before discing?

What brand, what size, and what would the cost be?

I also considered a rotatiller, but the cost of a good one is steep, and the rocks we have scare me, and I already have a good disc. A plow is probably a lot cheaper. Thanks!

 

[wedge40]

YouTube - How To Plow a Garden - Two Bottom Plow

This should get you started.

Wedge

 

[Farmwithjunk]

You've got the tractor to handle 3X16" to as much as 4X14"'s in most soils I know of. IMHO, unless you want to spend MORE than the cost of a tiller on a new Kverneland plow, the best choices in older plows would be Ford, Massey Ferguson, or White (Oliver) Deere & IH made decent plows also. Look to spend AT LEAST $300 and as much as $750 for a good useable plow.

 

[Opti-Mist]

The Ford and Oliver were basically the same plow (at least at a point in time). It/they are still virtually bulletproof. The designer was an old fellow named Auld Gelt (old gold). His design method was to instruct a "mechanic/model maker" in constructing the pieces. Once they were made to his satisfaction an engineer drew up the drawings. Interestingly I heard this story from the model maker (my uncle), then retold it to an engineer some years later who said that he was that engineer. It was his first job after graduating with an engineering degree after WW II.

 

[warhammer]

What would a 45hp tractor pull? I have a Kioti DK45SE with HST and a 20 acre field......

You've got the tractor to handle 3X16" to as much as 4X14"'s in most soils I know of. IMHO, unless you want to spend MORE than the cost of a tiller on a new Kverneland plow, the best choices in older plows would be Ford, Massey Ferguson, or White (Oliver) Deere & IH made decent plows also. Look to spend AT LEAST $300 and as much as $750 for a good useable plow.

 

[flusher]

I am considering a good plow to cut up food plots before discing. I know nothing about them so please clue me in on what would be recommended to pull behind a 68 hp M6800, 4 WD, with loaded ag tires. Soil varies, but has some clay and rocks. My disc just doesn't cut well unless it is somewhat wet. I was thinking a plow used first would speed up discing. Do many of you use a plow before discing?

What brand, what size, and what would the cost be?

I also considered a rotatiller, but the cost of a good one is steep, and the rocks we have scare me, and I already have a good disc. A plow is probably a lot cheaper. Thanks!

Here's the JD 2-14 plow I use with my 2008 Mahindra 5525 (54 hp engine, 45 hp pto). Bought it locally off craigslist for $200.

This one came with the two coulters and the rear wheel.

As FWJ says, you have the horses to pull twice as much plow as I have.

 

[HCJ]

Flusher, that's a nice looking plow! In my area, I rarely see any decent used implements, and the few dealers seem to carry only junk or light duty stuff. There is not even a new plow that I can find. I would love to find one for that price to try out. How does it work?

 

[HCJtractor]

The Ford and Oliver were basically the same plow (at least at a point in time). It/they are still virtually bulletproof. The designer was an old fellow named Auld Gelt (old gold). His design method was to instruct a "mechanic/model maker" in constructing the pieces. Once they were made to his satisfaction an engineer drew up the drawings. Interestingly I heard this story from the model maker (my uncle), then retold it to an engineer some years later who said that he was that engineer. It was his first job after graduating with an engineering degree after WW II.

I would love to find one of these! Never seen one in this area.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

If you're referring to the Oliver-bilt Ford plows, I'd bet you've seen more of 'em than you realize. Oliver (White) built the famous Ford model "101" mounted plow for Ford. Their plows were slightly different, but shared the same basic contour of the moldboards, ect. Frames were a considerable bit different though. Oliver built plows for Ford using Ford designs. By that point, Oliver's plow works was beginning to see slower sales of Oliver branded tillage equipment. Also, a few Ford plows were manufactured by "Pittsburg Plow".

 

[Opti-Mist]

Yep, FWJ. Pittburg actually made a variety of the 100 series of ground engaging implements and parts.

 

[HCJtractor]

I don't see many plows at dealers around here. Nor do many people around here seem to use them. Seems everyone uses a disc harrow. Have plows "gone out of style" or is this just a regional thing? There isn't much agriculture left in upstate S.C. When you plow a field, do most people go over it again with a tiller or disc? Obviously, I wasn't raised on a farm.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I don't see many plows at dealers around here. Nor do many people around here seem to use them. Seems everyone uses a disc harrow. Have plows "gone out of style" or is this just a regional thing? There isn't much agriculture left in upstate S.C. When you plow a field, do most people go over it again with a tiller or disc? Obviously, I wasn't raised on a farm.

Check out the farm equipment consignment auctions in your area. They tend to be more plentiful in the spring, but you might find one in the fall. Around here the consignment auctions always have several plows, many of them pretty nice stuff.

 

[flusher]

Flusher, that's a nice looking plow! In my area, I rarely see any decent used implements, and the few dealers seem to carry only junk or light duty stuff. There is not even a new plow that I can find. I would love to find one for that price to try out. How does it work?

I've just run a few test furrows--so far, so good. I did it last March when the ground was soft from our (meager) rainfall (13" last rainy season-Nov thru May--normal is 18"--we're in the 3rd year of drought around this part of the Central Valley).

The real test will come in late Sep or early Oct when I try to plow the 3 acres on the North side of my parcel that has thick sod and much clay. It's unlikely that we'll have any significant rainfall by then so the 5525 will really get a workout.

I need to hydro-inflate the rears on the 5525 sometime this month for better traction.

Fortunately, I have a skid steer quick attach plate on the 5525's FEL so I can detach the FEL bucket and remove some of the weight on the front of the tractor.

Don't know if I'll detach the FEL completely (it's not that difficult) to get more weight off the front of the tractor. I can run with the FEL arms raised to maximum height to move the tractor's CG to the rear for better traction when plowing.

Another alternative is to rip that hard ground with a single-shank parabolic subsoiler to loosen the soil before hitting it with the moldboard plow. I hope to avoid this additional step if at all possible.

 

[Mattlt]

Look around for abandoned or nearly abandoned farm sites. Many times the grove around the farm will be LOADED with old machinery. Find the owner (ask neighbors, the mailman, etc - you can't be afraid to ask), and tell them what you're looking for. You might be surprised.

With a little grease and maybe some tire repair you could have a decent plow for a reasonable price.

 

[kthompson]

HCJ, in my part of SC you don't see those plows used much any more. Be sure if you buy a set you check the wear parts on availability and price. Also you want the ones with trips or at least shear bolts.

You may find subsoiler or chisel plows will work for what you want. Would think you would be fine with a 7 shank chisel plow.

But on the disk: be sure to set your gangs at their sharpest angle. Are your blades in good shape with good edges to them? Have you tried placing weight on the disk? Have you tried slowing down? Slower disk speed will allow it to time to cut into harder ground better. Is there heavy grass or brush on the ground? If so cut it and allow to dry and burn if possible.

Often when disking ground the disk wants to ride on will slow down even to a crawl it seems and move over only about 50% of the width of the disk on each pass. Will do one of these first and that will depend upon experience and then the other in combo once in while. If I plan to make at least two pass normally do the 50% overlap first and slow down then if need be.

 

[suncoast]

HCJ, in my part of SC you don't see those plows used much any more. Be sure if you buy a set you check the wear parts on availability and price.

Here in central Florida, moldboard plows are never seen. Discs are what all of the farmers use. I bought an old 3 bottom plow to restore and use. At the time I didn't do my homework and it turned out to be an Allis Chalmers which took countless hours of calls and e-mails to find parts. The time spent was a lot of wasted income opportunity. It turned out great but DO check before buying! and get one of the brands Bill (FWJ) recommends. Gene

 

[HCJ]

I found a nice Ford two bottom plow today that had been restored with new moldboards and cutting edges. It does not have coulters or any trip protection of shear pins. I bought it for $450 which was a little more than I liked but since it was ready to go and I was anxious to give it a try, I bought it. Hooked it up and plowed several food plots. Wow, what a fun tool to use. The sod just peeled up like butter, whereas my 20/20 disc would not penetrate. I think several quick passes with a disc will have it looking great. I would love to find a good three bottom, maybe with some trip protection. I am still afraid of that hidden big rock, but so far, so good. Being a woodworker, it reminds me of the feeling you get using a nice sharp plane, when the shavings curl and the plane sings when everything is tuned up right. Watching that sod curl and turn over behind me was pretty cool. Plowing is going to be fun.

 

[HCJtractor]

I just bought this old Ford two bottom plow and thought I would enclose some pictures. It really works well. I would like to find a similar three bottom to speed things up a little. Any of you plow experts know how old this plow is? Where is the best place to buy parts? It has no shear pin or kick back protection. Is it common to damage plows without this? My soil has a few rocks.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I just bought this old Ford two bottom plow and thought I would enclose some pictures. It really works well. I would like to find a similar three bottom to speed things up a little. Any of you plow experts know how old this plow is? Where is the best place to buy parts? It has no shear pin or kick back protection. Is it common to damage plows without this? My soil has a few rocks.

That's after Ford sold plows branded as Deerborn, and while they still used the scripted lettering, so I'm gonna say mid 1950's to very early 60's. It is possible to hang a plow like that into a stump or big rock and do damage to the plow or even to the tractor itself. At the very least, it'll launch the operator into the steering wheel. (BTDT waaaaaaay more times than I care to recall) From the picture, I see that one has the 3-piece bottom. (Share, shin, moldboard) Those should be fairly easy to come by. Valu-Bilt, TSC, ect, should be able to fix you right up! Unless you plan on doing a LOT of plowing, that one is in very good shape and should yield quite a few years of service with the wear parts you already have.

 

[Opti-Mist]

Prior to Ford Tractor Operations being created they did business as Dearborn Motors (Dearborn, MI doncha know). Woudn't you know that the VP in charge of that was Emory Dearborn?