The Tractor cave...

RadarTech · Jun 24, 2010

After some thought and planning it is finally coming about....

The Tractor cave...

So far I have 3 of the walls nearly drywalled.

The new garage door is here.. I have the ceiling joists are almost ready to go up....

Lots of pics to follow and descriptions will be interlaced...
the first 3 pics are pic 79-- from the outside looking in.. the door opening has to be reworked as it was too low.
(TBN strikes here-- 7' moving to 7'6 so I don't have to drop the ROPS!)

88 is the last load of stuff...

84 is the inside of the door..
If you notice we framed it for a high door and then just scabed stuff up so we could make up our minds later....

the next post will have some internal pics...

J

RadarTech · Jun 24, 2010

Ok--- now some history--

The walls in the basement are ~10 feet high..
And when you check these pics out you will likely see that I am going to go for an 8 foor ceiling.

More in a bit... want to post the link on another thread...

J

dcyrilc · Jun 24, 2010

If you need a hand unloading, just let me know. You can just run over here with the truck and I'll help unload.:laughing:

RadarTech · Jun 24, 2010

Ok...

So the plan is to take the 2x6's that are leaning against the wall and 2 on the floor and put them on the sides above the drywall. (about 3/4 in higher that the drywall)

Then using joist hangers for 2x4's put 2x4s across the 11'9" room..

With bracing nailed to the ceiling spread across the width of the room...
(I have a ton of 36" 2x4s so I may put 3 spread evenly across the span)

then the drywall will hang under 2x4 joists.

On the door, I have to work on sizing that door right.....

With my schedule, it may be a couple of weeks before I get this done though...

J

RadarTech · Jun 24, 2010

I should put some dimensions here..

the room is 11'11.5" wide and 16'9 deep.....

The door will be 7'6 in and 8' wide...
with the side door being 36"...

J

RadarTech · Jul 3, 2010

Sorry for not posting anymore in the last bit..
I have been sick and then work went from zero to insane!

anyway--- I hope to have new pics up soon...

the rafters are all up now, with 2 sheets of drywall on the ceiling before I ran out of drywall nails! how did that happen???

I found a rental drywall lift from Sat noon to Monday AM for $25!!!!!
It is a good one.. Pics tomorrow..

and the garage door came in. Special order (size was weird I guess!!!)

So I need to hurry up and get that done..

I will need some advise on the garage door part though....

Tell you one thing though, unloading those drywall sheets by yourself is for the birds!!! And not that I mean Bird...

Anyway--- off to Lowes for some drywall nails and and some screws...
maybe I can get a couple more sheets up tonight... but I is T I RED...

Jacen

Obed · Jul 3, 2010

Jacen,
We framed our basement garage for a 7.5' high garage door for exactly the same reason as you, so I could pull the tractor inside without lowering the ROPS. I didn't want an 8' high door because I wanted some room for the garage door opener above the door.
Obed

two_bit_score · Jul 3, 2010

Great design and good implementation. Thanks for the pics! Looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

Thomas · Jul 4, 2010

Looking like showroom instead.

Make it handy comfortable for those retirement years.

Obed · Jul 4, 2010

RadarTech said:
Ok--- now some history--

The walls in the basement are ~10 feet high..
And when you check these pics out you will likely see that I am going to go for an 8 foor ceiling.

More in a bit... want to post the link on another thread...

J

Jacen,
I'm curious. Are you going to have a garage door opener?

Most of the contractors I've talked to for our house building project wanted at least a 12" clearance between the garage door and the ceiling in order to have room for a garage door opener.

Obed

RadarTech · Jul 4, 2010

Obed said:
Jacen,
I'm curious. Are you going to have a garage door opener?

Most of the contractors I've talked to for our house building project wanted at least a 12" clearance between the garage door and the ceiling in order to have room for a garage door opener.

Obed

Right now, I am not... My biggest concern is getting the door open when I have no power...
BUT I have seen been told there are kits that would allow me to put one in just longer that 8 feet back from the door opening.

This is just the shop door...
I was told it is possible by a friend that runs a small construction company.. BUT he also said I would have some challenges.

J

RadarTech · Jul 4, 2010

two_bit_score said:
Great design and good implementation. Thanks for the pics! Looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

thanks!

I am planning on going down shortly and hanging 3 or 4 more sheets of drywall and then I will take some pics...

J

RadarTech · Jul 4, 2010

Obed,

I found this link:

Installing a Garage Door Opener Tutorial

it says 2"....

Maybe we can get someone to weighin here...

J

dstig1 · Jul 4, 2010

2"? Doesn't sound right to me...

Residential Garage Door, Garage Door Installation - Clopay

om21braz · Jul 4, 2010

Looks good RadarTech! Eight-foot door here and ROPS clear header by about 1/2". Hope yours allows for a little more clearance.

eepete · Jul 4, 2010

I have the "low clearance" (also sometimes called "low lift") doors in the garage attached to the house. The low lift kit has a separate little track at the top for the top roller on the top panel. Officially, it needs 12" of clearance. I had a 9' ceiling and wanted 8.5' doors. Architect talked to salesman who said no problem. The blind leading the blind.

Installer gets there, laughs, tells me about the 12" clearance. He did a great job of squishing everything up tight. I had put blocking on floor trusses which helped him squish stuff in there. So I had the 8.5' doors, but got only 8' 3" clearance. Not what I wanted, but the best that could be done in a bad situation. These were Clopay doors. Good installer, silly sales people (Hmm. is that a redundant statment :laughing

. I have a garage door opener on it. This was in 2007.

"normal" doors officially need 18" of clearance. These are the ones with a single track. They are slightly cheaper than the low lift doors. I have these in my outbuilding garage. I can take a picture of the track if someone wants to see what I'm talking about.

The garage attached to the house is at 1st floor level, and the 1st floor had 9' ceilings. A lot of the time, the garage is at grade and the house is up by 2 feet or more on a foundation giving 10' of clearance in the garage even if you have 8' 1st floor heights.

Pete

RadarTech · Jul 4, 2010

Ok. I hung a little more than 3 or 4 sheets of drywall.. :thumbsup:

Once I got the hang of the lift, the sheets went up quick and easily.

So it is 3 sheets wide in the back, minus about 8 inches on the right side sheet
then I put a single sheet in the front with another 3/4 sheet on the right.
when you look forward. (80 inches by 41 inches.
There is a 24" section I left open so I could cut and open up the door.

So my eighth sheet for the ceiling will get cut in half length wise to fill that gap.

When you look at the messy picture with the nice green $29 wonder ladder, you see the temporary framed in hole for the new garage door.

Here is where I have a little challenge. The opening was originally framed for 8 by 7 foot standard garage door.
I will have to cut the vertical supports where the red line is on the next to last picture.

And then on the last picture you see where I will add a new 2x6 vertically and then put one horizontally to catch the small vertical supports.

I am not worried about supporting the wall all that much as there are 2 engineered and laminated beams up there.
they are side by side together with 2x6 supports on each end -- again 2 thick.

Now on that 24" gap I have to fill with the last bit of drywall....
I plan on putting a 2x4 against the wall above the door to nail the drywall to on the edge.

And 8 inches out is the standard 16" on center joist.
So that 24" of drywall will get support at 0 16 and 24..
My other thought here was that MOST of the stress from the door going up and down will be right there in the curve....

So with this much support I should be good....

The only thought I have for a variation is to change that spacing in the last 24 inches so that the 16 inch joist is at 12 inches..

anyone have a thought on that?

I may also put cross members between those last 3 connection points...

Before I close off the ceiling tomorrow I'll take some pictures of the support members I have from the joists to the support beams for the floor above..

whatcha think?

J

RadarTech · Jul 4, 2010

eepete said:
I have the "low clearance" (also sometimes called "low lift") doors in the garage attached to the house. The low lift kit has a separate little track at the top for the top roller on the top panel. Officially, it needs 12" of clearance. I had a 9' ceiling and wanted 8.5' doors. Architect talked to salesman who said no problem. The blind leading the blind.

Installer gets there, laughs, tells me about the 12" clearance. He did a great job of squishing everything up tight. I had put blocking on floor trusses which helped him squish stuff in there. So I had the 8.5' doors, but got only 8' 3" clearance. Not what I wanted, but the best that could be done in a bad situation. These were Clopay doors. Good installer, silly sales people (Hmm. is that a redundant statment :laughing. I have a garage door opener on it. This was in 2007.

"normal" doors officially need 18" of clearance. These are the ones with a single track. They are slightly cheaper than the low lift doors. I have these in my outbuilding garage. I can take a picture of the track if someone wants to see what I'm talking about.

The garage attached to the house is at 1st floor level, and the 1st floor had 9' ceilings. A lot of the time, the garage is at grade and the house is up by 2 feet or more on a foundation giving 10' of clearance in the garage even if you have 8' 1st floor heights.

Pete

RUH ROH..

Could we have had the same sales person????

I would like to see those pics when you get a chance...

Thanks,

J

RadarTech · Jul 4, 2010

dcyrilc said:
If you need a hand unloading, just let me know. You can just run over here with the truck and I'll help unload.:laughing:

I waited for 2 hours yesterday after I emailed you for that hand unloading 8 sheets of 5/8 in drywall...

Why did you not reply???

J

RadarTech · Jul 4, 2010

I tell ya.. I is TIRED..

I hope to have the tractor cave done soon..
then I can start on the wood working shop and other projects....

I do think the drywall for the stairs to the basement is going to be farmed out!

J