Thoughts on 02 2500HD
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ronchp
Bronze Member
Look up the duramax history on wiki so you understand the different engine issues. If I remember correctly, that year duramax has the LLY engine that had a history of fuel injector problems. Complicating the problem is that the injectors are under the covers making a whole injector job cost around $4500, so try to find out if injectors have been changed. I have a 2004 and have never had any major problems.
wmonroe
Elite Member
I'm not as up on duramax's but I believe 02 - 04 is the LB7 engine and the LLY started in 05. The LB7 did have some issues but at this point if the truck is in good shape I wouldn't worry about it any more than the other things that can go wrong on a truck in that age range, the injectors can be replaced much more reasonably at a local shop instead of a dealer. Some LLY's had an overheating issue that I'm not sure if it was ever solved. The duramax's in general are very good engines.
Copperhead
Veteran Member
And without the modern emissions junk on them, if it is in pretty good shape overall, I would have no problem jumping on top of a good deal.
HHR
Platinum Member
Transfer case "pump rub" is an issue that can show up between 70k and 120k. If you catch it in time it isn't too hard a job to do the upgrade ($150 in parts and 4 hrs labor).
Diamondpilot
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I had the 05 LLY. I had every issue under the sun.
If I were to ever think of another GM diesel it would be a LBZ.
All in all the Dmax is a great engine. The Allison Transmission is a good piece. The weak points are the GM front suspension, electrical systems, drive line (especially the transfer case and U Joints) and interior fit and finish.
Chris
WM75Guy
Elite Member
I just turned 200,000 miles in my 03. The injector pump and several injectors were replaced under warranty at about 75,000 miles. The problem showed up as not starting right away. You would have to crank it to get it started. Both of mine fire up after 1 or 2 turns of the crank. Neither burns oil and I still have the original brake pads on my 03. I had to replace a water pump at 150,000 and a front diff seal at 100,000. Price sounds about right if it's in good shape. I would go for it.
buickanddeere
Super Member
Too old. The chassis is salt rotten on my 2003. Run, run away from the LB7 2001 to mid 2004 Duramax diesel. The LLY and LBZ were ok until ULS diesel was priced higher than gasoline.
It's now 2015, not 1989 to 2006. The EPA took away any advantages the light highway diesel had with emissions controls and ULSD $$$.
Now a Chev 5.3L direct injection gasser is the pickup truck engine of choice for general motors. 355HP and 383lb ft of torque on gasoline, higher on E85.
It's now 2015, not 1989 to 2006. The EPA took away any advantages the light highway diesel had with emissions controls and ULSD $$$.
Now a Chev 5.3L direct injection gasser is the pickup truck engine of choice for general motors. 355HP and 383lb ft of torque on gasoline, higher on E85.
sawtooth
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Duramaxs in general have injector issues but those years were the worse. We have a 08 thats had multiple injector problem and are expensive to repair. But other truck have other issues so is what it is.
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sawtooth
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Guess we need to know what he's towing. The 1/2 ton chevy with 5.3 is not sufficient for my use. But is a good motor.
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Check the brake lines, those trucks are known for the brake lines rusting up. The rotors also rust badly on those trucks. I would do a pump upgrade to the transfer case as a preventive measure.
Merchant Automotive - Transfer Case Pump Upgrade Kit
Merchant Automotive - Transfer Case Pump Upgrade Kit
POC
Gold Member
Would this upgrade be necessary for the 6.0L V8?
Diamondpilot
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crashz
Elite Member
Some other minor issues:
- the dash gauges can go all funky on you. At this point its not very expensive to fix, just annoying.
- wheel bearing units
- parking brakes are a pain to set up and if your annual inspection requires it, they usually fail.
- heater fan resistor fries. has on odd accounts caused vehicle fires
- grounds near the cab get weak due to corrosion and cause all kinds of weird behavior.
- electric shift transfer cases stepper motors fail or can be a simple switch issue
- the dash gauges can go all funky on you. At this point its not very expensive to fix, just annoying.
- wheel bearing units
- parking brakes are a pain to set up and if your annual inspection requires it, they usually fail.
- heater fan resistor fries. has on odd accounts caused vehicle fires
- grounds near the cab get weak due to corrosion and cause all kinds of weird behavior.
- electric shift transfer cases stepper motors fail or can be a simple switch issue
Scott65
Silver Member
Unless your mechanically inclined, the lb7 is a gamble. Even if injectors have been replaced. If they were cheap aftermarket units, it's no better off than it was before. I've had several customers learn this the hard way (they brought their own parts). Opening up the motor is fairly extensive so be prepared for a long haul, and do it right the first time.
Ask the person/place that's selling it to allow you to take it to a shop. Have the injector balance rates checked. At operating temp in neutral, any injectors beyond plus or minus 4mm3 - in gear, plus or minus 6, these injectors are bad. If they are more than halfway between zero and it's respective limit, it's fixing to be. A haze of gray smoke out the tail pipe will usually accompany this.
While the front end of these trucks can be tricky, they definitely have their advantages. Being independent suspension allows better grip in rough terrain. And if you've ever owned a solid axle truck and experienced death wobble, you'll welcome independent suspension with open arms. It just has to be maintained. Typically, if one piece is worn out, it all is. It's pricey, but fix it all. Don't replace one ball joint, replace 4. And never use house brand components on any 3/4 ton+ truck. Moog (or whatever is name brand elsewhere in the country) only. It's double the price for a reason.
The points about transfer case pump and encoder motors is spot on. Blower resistors, and the plugs melt. Instrument clusters fail frequently. All gm "drum in hat" ebrakes drag and wear out prematurely, even 1/2 ton. Definitely better off without emissions. And yes, it was lly's that overheat, not so much these. Seems like a long list, but ask me about my list for fords and dodges, just as long. Lol
Repowell, I would guess your extended crank and resulting pump failure were probably either an air leak in the fuel supply, or the suction side of the injection pump, which is my next suggestion to anyone. I would never own a duramax without installing a transfer pump. Gm is the only manufacturer that didn't use them. The injection pump has to siphon the fuel from the tank, through a (usually plugged up) fuel filter. A 24k psi pump with air bubbles in its lubricant isn't going to last long. With the resulting shards of metal, neither are the injectors.
Sorry dp, I have to disagree. I hate to hear you didn't have any luck with your lly. I just recently got rid of mine. 700 horsepower, daily driven for 2 years, not very lightly. No driveline or front end issues, or electrical, and the fit and finish was one of my favorites. And I've owned at least one of nearly all of the big 3's diesel trucks. The only issue I had was the one strong point that you encountered. The Allison won't hold much more than stock power without heavy modifications. At highway speeds I had to take nearly all boost out of tuning to keep the converter from blowing apart. Dodges are the same. This is one area that Ford really overkilled, thank goodness. My current truck is a 6.4 power stroke. The trans needs all its got.
Personally, I loved my duramax's. You can't beat the off-the-line power, which brings allot for daily driving satisfaction. Waiting on turbo lag gets really old. I would hesitate about the engine code, but only long enough to get the balance rates checked out. If they are near limits, use it to bargain and take the savings to a trusted shop. The rest of the mentioned issues can be a nag, but no worse than any other diesel, and even allot of gasser problems on a used truck
Ask the person/place that's selling it to allow you to take it to a shop. Have the injector balance rates checked. At operating temp in neutral, any injectors beyond plus or minus 4mm3 - in gear, plus or minus 6, these injectors are bad. If they are more than halfway between zero and it's respective limit, it's fixing to be. A haze of gray smoke out the tail pipe will usually accompany this.
While the front end of these trucks can be tricky, they definitely have their advantages. Being independent suspension allows better grip in rough terrain. And if you've ever owned a solid axle truck and experienced death wobble, you'll welcome independent suspension with open arms. It just has to be maintained. Typically, if one piece is worn out, it all is. It's pricey, but fix it all. Don't replace one ball joint, replace 4. And never use house brand components on any 3/4 ton+ truck. Moog (or whatever is name brand elsewhere in the country) only. It's double the price for a reason.
The points about transfer case pump and encoder motors is spot on. Blower resistors, and the plugs melt. Instrument clusters fail frequently. All gm "drum in hat" ebrakes drag and wear out prematurely, even 1/2 ton. Definitely better off without emissions. And yes, it was lly's that overheat, not so much these. Seems like a long list, but ask me about my list for fords and dodges, just as long. Lol
Repowell, I would guess your extended crank and resulting pump failure were probably either an air leak in the fuel supply, or the suction side of the injection pump, which is my next suggestion to anyone. I would never own a duramax without installing a transfer pump. Gm is the only manufacturer that didn't use them. The injection pump has to siphon the fuel from the tank, through a (usually plugged up) fuel filter. A 24k psi pump with air bubbles in its lubricant isn't going to last long. With the resulting shards of metal, neither are the injectors.
Sorry dp, I have to disagree. I hate to hear you didn't have any luck with your lly. I just recently got rid of mine. 700 horsepower, daily driven for 2 years, not very lightly. No driveline or front end issues, or electrical, and the fit and finish was one of my favorites. And I've owned at least one of nearly all of the big 3's diesel trucks. The only issue I had was the one strong point that you encountered. The Allison won't hold much more than stock power without heavy modifications. At highway speeds I had to take nearly all boost out of tuning to keep the converter from blowing apart. Dodges are the same. This is one area that Ford really overkilled, thank goodness. My current truck is a 6.4 power stroke. The trans needs all its got.
Personally, I loved my duramax's. You can't beat the off-the-line power, which brings allot for daily driving satisfaction. Waiting on turbo lag gets really old. I would hesitate about the engine code, but only long enough to get the balance rates checked out. If they are near limits, use it to bargain and take the savings to a trusted shop. The rest of the mentioned issues can be a nag, but no worse than any other diesel, and even allot of gasser problems on a used truck
buickanddeere
Super Member
2014 and later HD 1/2 ton Chev/GMC is rated for just under 10,000lbs. Most people if honest would admit that is enough capacity for their applications .
POC
Gold Member
I'm having a problem maybe you can help me with.
My passenger side brake light burns out very quickly. Also the cab mounted brake lights don't work. And the trailer brake won't energize. If I use the button on the energizer unit in the truck, the brakes on the trailer work, but it doesn't work with just the use of the brake pedal.
Any ideas?
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