Good plan. Where in PA. are you, I have 3 SD parts trucks in Blairstown NJ. Maybe do some horse trading.![]()
Here is the thing, if the rust is the body panels and such only, go for it. If the frame is rusted badly, you may want to pass. A few years ago, I was in the exact same position. I had a chance at a 2003 F350 with landscape dump and plow. I got it for a steal. The body was in worse shape. However, 3 weeks of work (including 'bullet proofing" the engine) and it's a nearly brand new truck. Note, this is a work truck for my personal farm as well. Here are a bunch of before and after photos... https://www.megageek.com/truckre.htm Not only did I get to inspect every inch of the truck, I learned a lot about body work and restorations. I only spent about $1200 on the restore (that isn't including the engine work, but does include a lot of tools I purchased to do the job. I'll be more than happy to talk more about if if you are interested. Again, I wasn't looking to make it a show piece, but I get complements on it a lot.I have an opportunity to buy an 02 F450 Dump. V10, 6 speed, 4x4, engine driven hydraulics for dump, plow, spreader. Unit has about 50k miles. Cab is very rough on door bottoms, rockers, cab corners, floor. The frame and dump are ok.
I realize that I would have significant body work to do. It seems most panels that I would need are available after market.
If I could make a successful offer and get it for say $2000-3500, is that smart or should I just (try to) forget about it?
This would be for personal use on our 100 ac property, and include on road use to get materials, etc.
Insurance for limited use is quoted at less than $250/yr liability only to be added to our existing policy.
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I’m doing that with an IH dumptruck right now. It’s been a slow process. Truck was neglected. Should have probably passed on it, but it’s mine now.Here is the thing, if the rust is the body panels and such only, go for it. If the frame is rusted badly, you may want to pass. A few years ago, I was in the exact same position. I had a chance at a 2003 F350 with landscape dump and plow. I got it for a steal. The body was in worse shape. However, 3 weeks of work (including 'bullet proofing" the engine) and it's a nearly brand new truck. Note, this is a work truck for my personal farm as well. Here are a bunch of before and after photos... https://www.megageek.com/truckre.htm Not only did I get to inspect every inch of the truck, I learned a lot about body work and restorations. I only spent about $1200 on the restore (that isn't including the engine work, but does include a lot of tools I purchased to do the job. I'll be more than happy to talk more about if if you are interested. Again, I wasn't looking to make it a show piece, but I get complements on it a lot.
I had a 2003 F250 with the V-10. Nice engine. Smooth running, decent MPG. We were coming back from FL towing a car on a dolly and doing about 70 MPH when a plug blew out on the right bank. I don’t remember which number it was. It didn’t come through the hood but it was scary enough when that noise started and no idea what it was from. We had the 250 because we had a 5th wheel RV. Sold the RV and eventually went to the F150. (Best decision ever) Also went in on a 8 foot dump trailer with my wife’s ex. A good investment based on how much it’s been used.If the plow came with it, and you have snow removal needs, I would say definitely. Even if not, it’s still a good buy for occasional use.
Rust bothers me, so I tend to buy trucks with mechanical issues and solid bodies, but that’s just my preference. Once rust sets in to that degree, it’s a pain to fix.
The Ford V-10’s were known for spitting out spark plugs from the heads. Check for that, too.
I think he was talking about the dump boxes sub frame rusted it's mounted to the trucks frame under the dump box imo as long as the hinges are solid on end of the trucks frame rails it's probably alright especially for occasional use. I used my dump truck for 5 years with a rusted out sub frame never a problem. You can still get good deals out there if you buy something from a state that requires annual inspections and import it to a state that doesn't lol.First off, if your mechanic is ok with an exhaust leak and that weak frame passing inspection he's on the verge of loosing his inspection license if he passes that for inspection.
I'm a shop owner, I have a PA state inspection license, and I have owned an F-450 4x4 dump truck with a stainless steel bed. I dumped a ton of work and money in it before sending it down the road before the major expenses hit. Two major issues with these fords that I don't think have been mentioned are the exhaust manifolds crack + the mounting studs brake off requiring a ton of labor to repair. I'm friends with a Ford Tech and he said he had 49 hours replacing the exhaust manifolds + drilling out the broken studs on a V-10. There were two broken studs that were unable to be drilled out in the vehicle and he wound up having to pull the motor.
The other major area of concern is the engine oil pan rusts out. Another massive headache for anyone who has ever had to replace one.
Personally, I'd steer clear.
First off, if your mechanic is ok with an exhaust leak and that weak frame passing inspection he's on the verge of loosing his inspection license if he passes that for inspection.
I'm a shop owner, I have a PA state inspection license, and I have owned an F-450 4x4 dump truck with a stainless steel bed. I dumped a ton of work and money in it before sending it down the road before the major expenses hit. Two major issues with these fords that I don't think have been mentioned are the exhaust manifolds crack + the mounting studs brake off requiring a ton of labor to repair. I'm friends with a Ford Tech and he said he had 49 hours replacing the exhaust manifolds + drilling out the broken studs on a V-10. There were two broken studs that were unable to be drilled out in the vehicle and he wound up having to pull the motor.
The other major area of concern is the engine oil pan rusts out. Another massive headache for anyone who has ever had to replace one.
Personally, I'd steer clear.
Understood. I'm still ignorant enough to think common sense when operating old dilapidated equipment goes a long way lol.It's still a safety issue. If that sub frame fails under load and somebody gets hurt the inspection mechanic would be held responsible. When the State Police get involved hear say and ignorance go out the window.
I think you also need to look at additional uses for a one ton dump trucks besides just using the dump on it like using it as a tow vehicle for a trailer in my experience with my 1 ton I hauled a lot of material with it and used it to tow a 16' trailer repeatedly to get building materials not to mention I hauled all the fill and top soil from one section of my property to grade and finish another section of property that would have taken forever cutting and hauling it with a 2850 with a small bf 500 loader not to mention top soil was very pricy at the time I can't imagine it getting any cheaper. If you have a plan with uses for it projects will pay for a small dump truck in a limited amount of time in my experience.I know that having your own dump may be convenient, but unless you are planning on using it a lot the costs just don't justify keeping one for personal use. It appears you will be into this one for at least $4K and that is before your annual carrying costs of insurance, repairs, inspections, tags, etc.
IMO you will be money (and personal time) ahead to pay for material delivery and/or rent a dump for the few times you will need it. If you have your own rig all you are saving is the delivery cost, so if it costs $300.00 per load for the trucking cost of 20 tons of gravel, you could pay for 13 loads before you broke even with the purchase cost. And you still have the money in the bank earning interest.
For what its worth I use a small, 6x12, dump trailer and it can easily be towed by a 1/2 ton vehicle. And even that still costs $ to keep up. I just spent $300.00 for new brakes and $500.00 for new tires, Granted that will amortize over five years, but the point is that any vehicle will continue to cost real dollars to keep.