Thoughts on 02 F450 dump

[redmt]

Rust , strike 1.
V10, strike 2
Unless I needed spare part for a good truck, I'd pass at 2k.

 

[captbentley]

It would be a very useful Truck for not much money. I new one would likely be in low 80k. If you can keep it out of the weather, that will help preserve it longer. Clean it up, change all the fluids, check the brakes, hoses, etc, Then start using it. You can deal with the rusted parts when you have the time

 

[jjeff]

I wish more folks that are so against rust lived by me I could have a field day with all the rusted relics I'd acquire super cheap apparently. Lol, unfortunately apparently they don't live by me and therefore these rusted out used and abused dump trucks aren't inexpensive either.

 

[Merck]

The initial owner was a municipality. The second/current owner is the bus company, which I work for part time.

 

[Merck]

Being a Ford fan and owning one, I would stay away from it completely. No 1 because it belonged to a municipality. Most of the people that drove it probably beat the heck out of it. No 2 because of the V10. It doesn't have that much power and they suck the gas. Around the farm you might get 4 mpg maybe 6. No 3 because of all the rust on it. One day you will open the door and it will fall off in your hand. You would be far better off buying something in better shape. This truck is a project truck. This is just my opinion and everyone has one.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

I own an F-450 although in a completely different configuration (diesel, crew cab, 8 ft box) as I use mine as an RV tug. If you need tires a full replacement can cost up to $3000 on those 19.5 rims. And since they're 10 bolt rims you won't be swapping with much of anything else.

Also, the words salt spreader concern me. That means that the entire under-carriage frame and all have been exposed and possibly had salt collected in nooks and crannies where it's difficult to wash out. I'd have it put on a lift and be examined by someone that knows what to look for before dropping the dime on it.

 

[Hay Dude]

I just did a full set of Goodyear G-662’s traction 19.5’s on my Ram 5500 for $2,200.

 

[jjeff]

When I worked for a municipality we were always rinsing salt off the trucks when we weren't plowing more than I can say for a couple landscape commercial plowing companies I've seen in the city.

 

[ajmuller]

Ok, here are my thoughts as someone that owned a 2000 SuperDuty for 20+ years (my son rolled it last year or I would still have it).
If maintained, that engine will live forever. It was based on the modular v8 that could easily go a half million miles. Frame is a pain in the butt if rotted but if frame is good and drivetrain it good the cab could be changed. I bought a parts truck with a rock solid cab for under $1000. I was going to use it for the frame to replace the rotted frame on mine.

It all depends on time and effort. For a farm truck I might just spray the heck out of it with Fluid film or NH Oil each year and forget about it.

If the rockers are that bad, the body mounts on the body side are going to be shot.

This is what mine looked like and my rockers were solid

 

[jjeff]

You can buy used tires in decent shape if your not using the truck commercially at least that's what I found and did. Bought a hodge podge of 6 Firestone A/t transforce tires for less than two hundred bucks, if I remember correctly took the removed rims to the local tire/muffler shop got them mounted/ balanced for 5 bucks a piece over 10 yrs ago. Had to keep the 6 old tires though.

 

[UncleSam]

I have an opportunity to buy an 02 F450 Dump. V10, 6 speed, 4x4, engine driven hydraulics for dump, plow, spreader. Unit has about 50k miles. Cab is very rough on door bottoms, rockers, cab corners, floor. The frame and dump are ok.

I realize that I would have significant body work to do. It seems most panels that I would need are available after market.

If I could make a successful offer and get it for say $2000-3500, is that smart or should I just (try to) forget about it?

This would be for personal use on our 100 ac property, and include on road use to get materials, etc.

Insurance for limited use is quoted at less than $250/yr liability only to be added to our existing policy.

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No. Rust IS also a mechanical issue. Unless you are capable of welding all the panels, removing the truck from the frame (it’s called a frame-off restoration) and doing the mechanical rebuild in your spare time, at no cost and the parts are free, no.
here is the cost:
sheet metal material
brake lines, fuel lines, sensors
e
ectrical rewire parts
gas tank sending unit and pump
parts for engine and under hood
coatings
sand for blasting
body work supplies
800 hours of your time.

or, you can buy one from the West Coast (Oregon is a great place to look) for $12-15k and $2000 shipping.

tally each one up and send that one to the crusher after you part it out. It’s junk.

 

[jstoshick]

I have an opportunity to buy an 02 F450 Dump. V10, 6 speed, 4x4, engine driven hydraulics for dump, plow, spreader. Unit has about 50k miles. Cab is very rough on door bottoms, rockers, cab corners, floor. The frame and dump are ok.

I realize that I would have significant body work to do. It seems most panels that I would need are available after market.

If I could make a successful offer and get it for say $2000-3500, is that smart or should I just (try to) forget about it?

This would be for personal use on our 100 ac property, and include on road use to get materials, etc.

Insurance for limited use is quoted at less than $250/yr liability only to be added to our existing policy.

View attachment 784576View attachment 784577View attachment 784578View attachment 784579

If you have the skill to do these repairs yourself and have a welder, good enough buy for what you are planning. Your future will have a month of sundays sorting this thing out and working on it, so consider the hassle factor if you don’t have time / patience.

Also, what are you going to load with? The height of those trucks for hand loading isn’t exactly ideal.

If you aren’t the fixit yourself type, probably better to steer clear. Someone mentioned the spark plugs spitting out - don’t overlook as it would be a major expense & hassle day 1.

 

[UncleSam]

I have over the years considered a dump trailer . I have always had a 1/2 ton pickup so the capacity for a dump trailer would be pretty small. I’d hate to give up the ride comfort and improved MPG to get a 3/4 or 1 ton for occasionally heavy towing.

If I bought the dump truck, believe me, after fixing the problem panels, I’d be dousing the thing in Pfc or Fluid Film annually.

I have a one ton 1998 Chevy non dually and it’s comfortable as my half ton

 

[jjeff]

A rusty dump trucks is also a great place to dispose of used motor and hydraulic oil with a sprayer imo lol.

 

[4570Man]

A V-10 is a good motor. My v-10 has as much power as my 7.3psd while being much cheaper to buy and work on. But the rust is a no from me. I’ve had rusty trucks before and I won’t have another one. At least to drive. What I trade for is another story.

 

[Aldo1800]

I love my rusty F250 but have learned the rust does affect things you can't see. Mine isn't as rusty as the pic. Over the two years I've had to deal with the following due to rust;
Rear brake backing plates. metal brake lines, metal parts of brake hoses, currently the radiator mount and bed mounts need replacing (probably wood on a dump). trans cooler lines (you don't have them with 6speed) Just an idea of what rust can do to a low milage (70k) never abused 2004.

 

[jjeff]

It's all about the potential new owners tolerance and skills to repair. For some rust is a no go under any circumstances for others like me it's an opportunity to get something that can be made useful that's cheap. Granted I don't have to worry about annual inspections nor did I drive my old dump truck on public blacktop very often. If your resourceful and can deal with the quirks associated with buying a 20+ year old dump truck for personal use at what seems like a very reasonable price it's a no brainer imo.

 

[deadheadmartin]

V10 was reliable, had it in a motor home but only 8mpg loaded, empty, towing. would prefer 7.3 diesel. If frame is solid body can be patched. Due diligence on frame!

 

[houdel]

Unless you are planning on entering it in cars shows, and esp since it is for only occasional work, I wouldn't worry about the body work other than making sure the floor is sound so you don't get exhaust fumes in the cab. You might eventually need to replace some brake or fuel lines, although the Ford coated lines seem to last longer that GMs zinc plated lines. I buy the copper-nickel replacement lines in coils, its easier to bend than a steel line and will never rust through again. All you need is a flaring tool and a bending tool which are pretty cheap, a coil of line and a few fittings. That part aside, if you really can use a dump truck that is a pretty decent price (for around here at least) and if it comes with the plow I'd snatch it up in a heartbeat!

 

[med1pilot]

Look deep first to check for other rusty components. Brake lines, brake calipers, engine and body mounts, etc. Cosmetic Is one thing, but critical safety items would be a deal breaker for me. I had the V10 in a class C motorhome years ago. It could pull and accelerate like crazy. Under all circumstances it got 9mpg.