TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH

[WALT]

I have a general question regarding combined chain strength.
I hope to be purchasing a larger TLB and want to keep it on the trailer, until I'm ready to unload it !!!!

Here is the scenario, using Two (2) chains to bind the load: If the tractor weights 7000 lbs., does each chain need to be rated for 7000 lbs. or is it the total capacity of all chains to be used?
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I am familar with how the different grade & link diameters affect the load capacity of a given chain.
I'm just curious if I need to upgrade my current chain & binders from 5400 lb rated. (3/8", grade 40)

Thanks in advance:

WALT

 

[BigEddy]

Around here - need 4 chains - each rated to the weight of the item secured. Some people cheat and use one long one at each end. Doesn't pass unless it is attached independently from each side such that a break would only result in one corner coming loose.

 

[Soundguy]

Down her ein fl truckers prefer grade 70.. but many find 43 works fine. Just stay away from the shiny 'proof-coil' stuff, and get a hardened one.

Also.. FL DOT requires a minimum of 1 tie down, plus 1 per additional 10' or part therof.

Also.. each strap or chain needs to be able to handle the full load.. and preferably be 2 to 3x the load. For instance.. I use 2 10K ratchet straps to haul my tractors around. All except the JD -B is 3k or less weight. ( um.. the NH7610s won't fit on the trailer.. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif )

Sometimes I even add an additional safety chain to the bumper , or from a rear implement to a stake pocket, as extra insurance... never hurts.. may help? Also.. chok your tires.. set brakes if applicable.. perhaps even leave in gear depending on what model/type of tractor you have.
Lower implements.. etc. Flag anything hanging over the rear.. and DO have visible lamps, and working brakes.

DOT rarely pulls farmers over.. but they are on comercial haulers like white on rice. And occasionally they pull over 'unsafe' looking non-comercial loads too. ( thinks like grossly overloaded trailers with the tires splayed out.. and flattened.. heavy tounges, and bumper hitches that are bent down as opposed to receiver hitches.. etc. )


Soundguy

 

[Theowegian]

Just wondering...I dont mean to hijack this thread, but have any of you used these chinese made ratcheting chain binders ($16.00 for a 5/16"-3/8") found at some stores like Harbor Freight?

I bought a few because they were rated the same as the USA brand ones which cost 3x as much....both makers were rated at 5400#.

OBTW, It's my understanding that grade 40 3/8 chain AND 5/16" grade 70 chain are both rated as 5400#???

So are these cheap chinese chain binders as good as the more expensive USA ones?

dwight

 

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( For instance.. I use 2 10K ratchet straps to haul my tractors around. All except the JD -B is 3k or less weight. ( um.. the NH7610s won't fit on the trailer.. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif ))</font>

Hey Soundguy.. you are about the first person I have seen say they tie down with ratchet straps. I have a B7300 that I'll be hauling about 10 miles each way come this spring. I was reading a thread about 4-5 months ago on a similar topic and everyone posting was swearing off using straps and to use chains and binders instead. Against that judgement, I recently bought two 12,000 straps to tie off with. I don't see a problem with that. My tractor weights 1200lbs and has a FEL and a boxblade or brushhog on the back. I plan to set the brake, lower the FEL and rear attachment then strap 'er down. Everything fits fine on a tandem axle trailer that was originally bought to haul a 40hp Mahindra and attachments. (Not sure of the rating on the trailer) Sound like an ok setup to you?

 

[Soundguy]

Sounds great.


I love the ratcheting straps. I have a few of them. They are good for things other than tractors. When I go get a couple rolls of hay.. or 30-40 bales.. the make great hay tiedowns.. whereas chains wouldn't

I know many guys that use nylon straps. They are very strong. Ever notice that most tow and 'snatch' straps are nylon? Kinda tells you about it's strength.

It's way easier on paint too. and flows smoothly as you tighten.. whereas a chain link may catch and then loosen up when the load shifts. I've seen a tight load on a chain, go limber when something gave an inch or two. A ratched starp can have some tension on it even if something gives a tad.

Snapping nylon straps don't carry the same energy as a broken and recoiled steel cable, or a chain.

If I am running around pinch points, I use some old fire hose to run the straps thru.. works great.. and is free in most cases.. especially if you send coffeee and donuts to the fire station.... 10-15$ worth of donut holes and coffee buys alot of otherwise scrap fire hose!

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So are these cheap chinese chain binders as good as the more expensive USA ones )</font>

I've got one of those from harbor freight. A roll pin tried to back out once.. but I tapped it in and flaried it with a punch.. still working after ?oh.. 4 years. I use it on the front bumper chain on my tractors. It's not super great fit/finish high quality.. but it works... shows no signs of 'giving out'.. just a little surface rust as I leave it out on the trailer sometimes /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Soundguy

 

[RobertN]

I like the ratchet straps. I read up on regs a few months back, and contacted CHP. They said an independat tie is required on all four corners of a vehicle. For a loader, if it can raise to 15'' high(from ground), it must be secured. Apparently a few have floated, and also a few folks left tractors running on the trailer. Loaders raised and smacked bridges...

So, you would need at least four straps...

The biggest thing I found with straps is there are lots of sharp corners around tractors. I got some cuts on mine... I use chain now, except on the old Farmall; it has shiny paint I do not want to scratch...

 

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sounds great. I love the ratcheting straps. I have a few of them. They are good for things other than tractors.)</font>

Thats what I'm thinking Soundguy... thanks for the reply.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It's way easier on paint too.)</font>

Another great point... I'm pciky about keeping my tractor looking good!

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If I am running around pinch points, I use some old fire hose to run the straps thru.. works great.. and is free in most cases.. especially if you send coffeee and donuts to the fire station.... 10-15$ worth of donut holes and coffee buys alot of otherwise scrap fire hose!)</font>

Well... I work on fire trucks day in and day out. I've never thought about using the old hose. Those guys better GIVE it to me! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Great tip... thanks!

 

[RobertN]

Use the rating of one chain. At any given time the full stress from the weight of the tractor one chain point would have most of the weight...

I use 2-7000lb chains for my Kubota. I use four binders. DOT requires the load be secured independantly on each corner for a vehicle.

Your best bet is to contact your local Highway Patrol/Trooper office. Ask for an officer in the commercial division. They can tell you specifically what you need, in detail.

 

[Theowegian]

I was told recently by a transport chain supplier that if the tractor FEL has a Quick Attach bucket on it, then the bucket must have a separate tiedown from the tractor/FEL....at least here in Kansas. Guess a few FEL buckets have been bouncing down these rural highways ....! what a sight, uh?

Anybody else ever heard of having to tie down the quick attach buckets separately?

dwight

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The biggest thing I found with straps is there are lots of sharp corners around tractors. I got some cuts on mine )</font>

I use fire hose.. or sharp corners or pinch points. Canvas.. or even cardboard works ok... scrap moving blankets.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Maybee the QA buckets are actually bouncing loose of the brackets? I've seen several different schemes for lock cylinders for the QA buckets.

Soundguy

 

[WALT]

Soundguy & others that replied:

Thanks for your info.
It appears that having each binding device able to hold the full load is the best way to proceed. Some extra care & caution on the front end would be good money spent in the event of a sudden stop or accident.
The background that I neglected to add to my question is that I have been hauling my tractor & implements around on a 16' 9750 gvw trailer for 4+ years now. I currently chain the tractor to the trailer by numerous "D" rings I welded to both the tractor & trailer. I also use 2" nylon rachet straps to secure extra implements to the front deck of the trailer.
You are correct that old fire hose makes for excellent protectors for the straps & chain.
I do tractor work as a part time business, and transport the tractor to 25-30 jobs a year. I have also rented mini-excavators & other equipment that I have moved by my trailer.

The rainstorm turned blizzard in CT. today gave me time to look up the CT. DMV rules for securing loads on the internet.(C.G.S. 14-271) The statue does not specify the 4 corner binding as suggested by some of you, it just states that it is an infraction if you fail to secure your load.
What I was taught on the farm was to chain the front of the machine to the trailer, back up to snug the front chain, then tighten the rear chain using one (1) rachet binder. That gives you the four (4) points of contact.
One of the posts suggested 4 chains & binders to accomplish the same. That is certainly more secure that my current method, but I have not seen that done in my area, except by the heavy equipment transporters. I guess it depends on how much faith you put in your binding devices, relative to your load.
If the tractor fairy brings me the L-39 or L-4630 I've been wishing for, I will consider it.

Also, a note on getting used fire hose. I work as a station captain of a suburban fire dept. operating 5 stations. Surplus hose & equipment generally goes to the purchasing dept. who auction it off. I was able to get some old hose years ago, but these days taking or giving away anything violates ethics rules and can quickly make you an ex-firefighter. That happened to a 12 year fire lieutenant 2 years ago from my job. Besides, it's the cops who eat donuts & coffee. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Firefighters are more partial to cake & ice cream.

Thanks Again:

WALT

 

[RobertN]

I chained my tractor the way you mention originally. My little B8200 is only abot 2300lbs, and sits on a 7000lb dual axle trailer.

I like the Ca rules. From what CHP said, they derive from DOT.

The way I used to chain the tractor, if on chain broke, the whole thing was pretty much loose...

Now, I use two chains. On the front, I anchor a chain to the front corner of the tractor, and pull the chain over to a trailer d-ring. I bind to that. I run the chain over to the other side of the trailer, next to a d-ring. I hook the chain on the other front corner, and bind on the d-ring I just set the chain by. I do the same for the back.

If one point comes loose, the other three will still hold tight...

I volunteered at our local station(St-28, Shinlge Springs, Ca) for a few years. If your picture went in the paper, you better be out buying ice cream

I'm updating my EMT certs right now. Although I do not work Fire anymore, my son and I are active in Boy Scouts and 4H. As long as I'maround all those kids, seems a good skill to have that EMT and CPR certs...

We usually had spare 1-1/2 single jacket wildland hose around that was no good. There's enough wildland activity around here, and single jacket is not too sturdy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[WALT]

RobertN:

I stopped and talked to the local CSP trooper, who also happens to own and operate an excavator. He stated that machinery requiring a CT. D.O.T. hauling permit needs the 4 independant anchoring points, along with a chain over the tracks, holding it down to the bed. For the load that I originally described, he stated the law does not specify any particular method, as long as the load is secure.

While not required, I will spend the $200-$300 for new chain/binders to keep a $30,000 TLB secured to my trailer.
As a firefighter, I have responded to numerous accidents involving improperly secured loads that shifted or fell on to the street, other vehicles etc. Generally, those accidents were preventable if the operator had taken the time to properly secure the load.

With all the rain lately in CA. hopefully you will get a break from the past wildfire activity you have experienced. That might free up the surplus fire hose supply. I use old double jacket 2 1/2" hose for the chain/strap protector.

Also it's a good idea maintaining your EMS skills, when you are a firefighter or EMT, you're never really off duty.

Thanks:
WALT

 

[willfick]

This is sort of by way of "Remember the good old days." or maybe, "Boy, didn't we used to be stupid."
I started out my working life at ten, 43 years ago, at my grandad's Farmall dealership. When I turned 14 and got a six-to-six learners permit they started sending me out by myself on the old flatbed truck to pick up tractors to bring in for repair. It was the back into a ditch to load 'em style. No winch - if they didn't run you'd pull 'em on with chains and binders, tighten one, tighten the other, one link at a time. At fifty cents an hour they didn't care how long I took.
To the point of this thread; the standard way to fasten one down was lock the brakes, if it had brakes, leave it in gear, and run a single chain through the rear wheels to each side and put the binder on it. A two foot cheater pipe on the binder if we wanted to show off.
One time the customer was there to watch and told me he didn't think one chain was safe. So I put another chain along side the first and pulled it down. That put some slack in the first chain. So I tightened it a link. That made the second chain slack. This went on until the tires were squished almost flat. Customer seemed happy.
By the mid-sixties IH had come out with tractors that were big enough that when you'd back them on the truck from the dock at the shop the front wheels of the truck would lift up off the ground. Some times we'd use two chains on those, too.
Wm