Useful attachments adapted to PT ?

[2manyrocks]

Based on my experience with my brush mower, I suspect that bigger wheels are not the solution. My rear wheels are in the second lowest bolt holes, I.e. second highest deck height.

The deck cutting height works okay in fields where there is no mulch debris, but I'd like to find a way to increase the cutting height to mow over the chunks of mulch debris in the fields that were mulched.

Looking for laminated wheels that would be taller than the OEM versions, one of the issues I'm seeing is the hubs on the taller wheels may be too wide.

 

[ponytug]

The deck cutting height works okay in fields where there is no mulch debris, but I'd like to find a way to increase the cutting height to mow over the chunks of mulch debris in the fields that were mulched.

Looking for laminated wheels that would be taller than the OEM versions, one of the issues I'm seeing is the hubs on the taller wheels may be too wide.

The hubs, as well as the tires may be too wide and the diameter can't be increased too much before hitting the deck / tractor.

Go for it, if you want, but you might also consider as an alternative protective gear and perhaps a temporary cover from the the upper arms to the PT frame out of something flexible like used conveyor belting that could be long enough and flex enough, but stop things coming your way. Just my $0.02...

Do you have a photo of the forestry mulch with something to size it for us?

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

Couple of pictures showing some of the chunks on the hillside and the depth of the mulch relative to the cutting blade. The body of the tape measure is 3.5" tall.

I raised and tilted the deck as far as it would go in both directions. The problem is the discharge area is directed towards the operator if I drop the deck down to cutting height, but attempt to raise it to clear obstacles.

The blade tips are pretty close to the edge of the deck. Any discharge chute would have to clear the blade tips and not contact the lift arms when the deck is raised. The edge of the deck already hits the lift arms when the deck is raised and tilted backwards.

For those interested, I've included a picture of the underside of the deck. IMO, this is a light duty brush cutter. My J-Bars have thicker blades and bolts.

I timed how long it takes for the treadle to respond after initial startup before the machine will move. It took 3.5 minutes this morning. That doesn't seem normal to me?

 

[MossRoad]

I'd inch my way over that stuff and it would be gone for eternity.

As for you time, I think you have the brake tender? If so, I can't help you. Sorry.

 

[2manyrocks]

Does brake tender mean having the auto brake that applies itself when the PT isn't moving forward or reverse? I turned the brake off at the switch and felt it disengage, but it was still 3.5 minutes before the PT would move forward after being started.

 

[ponytug]

Does brake tender mean having the auto brake that applies itself when the PT isn't moving forward or reverse? I turned the brake off at the switch and felt it disengage, but it was still 3.5 minutes before the PT would move forward after being started.

Talk to Terry. That seems too long, even allowing for an outside temperature in the high 30s, but perhaps air in the system plus cold might do it. I don't know. Terry will have the best ideas.

You might try looking in the oil reservoir (take the cap off) with a flashlight bright enough to see the bottom. Then start it and see if you see bubbles. If you do, a suction hose may be loose.

Once you get to ten or so hours, I think that it is a good idea to go over every single hydraulic connection and tighten them. The pressure and hot cold cycles may have loosened some.

All the best,

Peter

 

[SpringHollow]

I have started my tractor in below freezing weather and it takes a minute for the engine to run smoothly. But it can move forwards or backwards. It is not normal to have a 3 - 4 minute delay to pedal movement. But everything responds slowly until the oil warms up. So I can be moving forward and it will not stop/reverse immediately so I have to plan accordingly.

Ken

 

[2manyrocks]

I called Terry a week ago to talk about the delay in moving after start up, but haven't heard back. In the meantime, now I am seeing oil on the rim of one of the rear wheels which I am guessing may be a leak in the wheel motor at 8 hours?

 

[ponytug]

I would check to see where the oil is coming from to the best of your abilities. I would use the bucket to lift the front end, put enough support(s) under the front axle frame area to support the tractor safely, and then take the wheel off. It may be the hydraulic hose on the outboard end of the motor. At the moment, I can't recall if it is a drain or brake hose, but I think it is the brake. If your brakes aren't working (well), a loose / leaking fitting there might also explain the slow to move issue.

I would call Terry Estep again, and keep calling until you get through to him. He is often out in the workshop and warehouse, but not all day.

All the best,

Peter

 

[SpringHollow]

It is not uncommon to have a hydraulic fitting loosen during shipping as well as from operating a tractor.

Ken

 

[m5040]

I have a similar PT mower on my 1430. The lift section is in the forward holes and it will still tilt forward. Some times when I need the front up, I take out one set of the travel stop bolts and tilt the plate forward and put the bolts back in. This allow me to tip the front of the deck up, but then it doesn't float well.

The forward/reverse delay I believe is caused by the 2 fittings for the foot pilot control, where the hoses from the foot control valve go to the hydrostatic drive pump. The factory welds them closed and then drills small holes through to cause a small delay. If they weren't purposely restricted, you would be spinning the tires every time you changed directions. It is possible that foreign material might have further restricted the holes. You may want to take them out and inspect/blow out.

 

[2manyrocks]

The rain held me up from further investigating until today when I removed the left rear tire to look for the oil leak.

It looks like the worst leak is from the smaller hose fitting on the back of the wheel motor plus another leak from the bottom hose on the box (brake?) on the frame. The oil seemed to be leaking through one of the holes under that box and then running back to the wheel area where it dripped onto the wheel rim. My 1445 is usually parked on a slope in a shed where an oil leak would tend to do that.

I tightened the fittings and tried to make some pictures, but then the rain started again. Had to put the machine up for now.

Haven't called Terry back until I have a better understanding of what is actually going on.

9.2 hours on the 1445 so far.

 

[ponytug]

The rain held me up from further investigating until today when I removed the left rear tire to look for the oil leak.

It looks like the worst leak is from the smaller hose fitting on the back of the wheel motor plus another leak from the bottom hose on the box (brake?) on the frame. The oil seemed to be leaking through one of the holes under that box and then running back to the wheel area where it dripped onto the wheel rim. My 1445 is usually parked on a slope in a shed where an oil leak would tend to do that.

I tightened the fittings and tried to make some pictures, but then the rain started again. Had to put the machine up for now.

Haven't called Terry back until I have a better understanding of what is actually going on.

9.2 hours on the 1445 so far.

Thanks for the update. Small leaks are one reason why I try to keep the hydraulic hoses and fittings really clean at all times. It makes finding a leak quicker, and it keeps the leaks smaller, at least for me. If you have done so already, I would go around tightening every fitting about now. The ones on the steering mechanism are a pain to get to, but if they leak, it tends to get everywhere under the dash/console area.

Photos would be great whenever you have the chance.

All the best,

Peter

 

[m5040]

9.2 hours on the 1445 so far.

Did you grease all the fittings at 8 hours?

 

[2manyrocks]

I have not greased yet.

 

[MossRoad]

Grease is the word!

 

[ponytug]

Every eight hours. That and changing your hydraulic oil filter every 50 hours are great things to do for your tractor.

I really recommend a powered grease gun, either battery powered or air powered and a locking zerk nozzle.

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

The locking zerk nozzle on mine doesn't fit the zerk housings on several of the loader fittings. One is missing from the factory. Looks like I need a right angle zerk nozzle for the grease fitting under the console.

Dismayed to see the same or worse oil leaks after tightening the loose hydraulic hose to the wheel motor and attempting to tighten one of the smaller hoses under the assembly beside it on the frame. Is this the auto brake? I noticed that the PT will roll backward on an incline if I take my foot off the treadle pedal.

Still having the delay in movement after first start up.

 

[ponytug]

I have found that only certain brands of grease gun nozzles fit the loader arm recessed zerks.

If you raise the engine "hood", and then stand in front of the dipstick, you should see a gizmo bolted to the tub wall, with several hoses going in and out of it, a large (3") diameter metal tube (the brake accumulator), and towards the back end, a large spring. Chock your tractor so it can't move, preferably with the bucket edge straight into the ground. When you start the tractor with the hood open, does the spring move? When you flip the brake switch off, how long does it take for the spring to move? If you watch the spring, with the brakes off, does it periodically go in and out?

Do you have photos of the particular hose end(s) that are leaking for you? Have you tried jacking the PT up, removing the wheel, getting everything clean and running it briefly? Can you see exactly where the oil is leaking? If it is the brake line, did you clean that end getting it super clean and then remove it to check for dirt on the flare surface, or a cracked flare end? (I have had that happen to me once.)

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

Thank you. I will check these things and report back.