OP
Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
- Thread starter EddieWalker
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OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Well, my contraption works!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
And the mystery of what a wet sleeve looks like is now solved. I aslo now understand what they mean by the term "wet" sleeve. It's because the sleeve is surrounded by water in the block!!!
Don't laugh, I'm coming at this totally blind. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Eddie
And the mystery of what a wet sleeve looks like is now solved. I aslo now understand what they mean by the term "wet" sleeve. It's because the sleeve is surrounded by water in the block!!!
Don't laugh, I'm coming at this totally blind. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Eddie
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Bird
Rest in Peace
It's amazing how many "specialized" tools you can make yourself with a little ingenuity, a little metal, and a welding rig.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Eddie:
I have rebuilt gas engines before, but never a diesel, and never a sleeved one, so this question is just out of curiosity. (I did rebuld a rotary-engine Mazda way back when.)
What seals the joint betweeen the block and the sleeve?
I followed the part about cooling the sleeve and heating the block so that thermal expansion would allow the sleeve to slip in easily and then expand to fit, but the difference in size is going to be small.
If there is any rust, scale or other corruption in the sealing area between the sleeve and the sealing surface in the block will there be trouble?
Does anyone with experience care to comment?
Dave
P.S. I want to see a picture of this thing working after all this...
I have rebuilt gas engines before, but never a diesel, and never a sleeved one, so this question is just out of curiosity. (I did rebuld a rotary-engine Mazda way back when.)
What seals the joint betweeen the block and the sleeve?
I followed the part about cooling the sleeve and heating the block so that thermal expansion would allow the sleeve to slip in easily and then expand to fit, but the difference in size is going to be small.
If there is any rust, scale or other corruption in the sealing area between the sleeve and the sealing surface in the block will there be trouble?
Does anyone with experience care to comment?
Dave
P.S. I want to see a picture of this thing working after all this...
L
LarryRB
Guest
My father in law was a Int'l Harvester truck dealer over 40 years, One thing all his mechanics did was the new replacement sleeves were put into a freezer two days before installing. This, made them almost "drop" back in.. Of course these are the old timer mechanics, the way things were done then,,
I knew Steph would get involved here at some point, just thought she'd have a wrench in her hand /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif..
Eddie, maybe you can sell your design for a couple hundred bucks...Its amazing what one can do if he really thinks about it..
Curly, I'm in a similar boat as far as actually doing one of these.. But, to my knowledge, its just a metal to metal connection(seal).. The minute size change of metal under different temps is plenty to create this seal. This is also part of the reason you need to add an anti cavitation additive to your coolant on a regular basis.. It reduces the scale, electrolisys and metal transfer that would cause a leak.. Like I said, I've never actually done one, but thats my understanding of it..
Eddie, maybe you can sell your design for a couple hundred bucks...Its amazing what one can do if he really thinks about it..
Curly, I'm in a similar boat as far as actually doing one of these.. But, to my knowledge, its just a metal to metal connection(seal).. The minute size change of metal under different temps is plenty to create this seal. This is also part of the reason you need to add an anti cavitation additive to your coolant on a regular basis.. It reduces the scale, electrolisys and metal transfer that would cause a leak.. Like I said, I've never actually done one, but thats my understanding of it..
Oh, Eddie, BTW,
The diesel fuel in the oil thing is to "clean" things up a bit.. The issue here is that you wont have a dirty engine when youre done.. The bearings will be relatively dry when you first go to cranking on it.. You want real oil there not a thinned one.. If you had an engine with a gazzilion hrs on it and the oil looked nasty(or maybe HEUI injectors that were sticking) a quart of diesel fuel would help clean it out.. Some of you guys may have heard of ATF in a gass burner or even Mytery Oil, same thinking..
The diesel fuel in the oil thing is to "clean" things up a bit.. The issue here is that you wont have a dirty engine when youre done.. The bearings will be relatively dry when you first go to cranking on it.. You want real oil there not a thinned one.. If you had an engine with a gazzilion hrs on it and the oil looked nasty(or maybe HEUI injectors that were sticking) a quart of diesel fuel would help clean it out.. Some of you guys may have heard of ATF in a gass burner or even Mytery Oil, same thinking..
Bird
Rest in Peace
Not only heard of it, but I've used ATF and even kerosene to flush an engine; mixed with oil of course.
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
The difference a little heat makes can best be understood when replacing the starter ring on the flyweel of a standard transmission motor.
You can pound and press until the cows come home and it won't go on. But if you take a torch and gently heat up the ring, not to red, just hot, that pupply will literally fall on and after the temperatures have equalized between the ring and flywheel you can't remove the ring.
One of the images I have in my mind is Eddie at Lowes explaining why he doesn't want the freezer after just a couple of days use. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Look at the size of those sleeves and then imagine trying to put six of them in your freezer. Might be time for a large ice chest and some dry ice. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
You can pound and press until the cows come home and it won't go on. But if you take a torch and gently heat up the ring, not to red, just hot, that pupply will literally fall on and after the temperatures have equalized between the ring and flywheel you can't remove the ring.
One of the images I have in my mind is Eddie at Lowes explaining why he doesn't want the freezer after just a couple of days use. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Look at the size of those sleeves and then imagine trying to put six of them in your freezer. Might be time for a large ice chest and some dry ice. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif