Welding table build.
- Thread starter Jeepnford
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Sofar I like your table the best, looks like enough holes to me less chance of losing contact tips down a hole, that is if you ever change tips and your clamp down doo-hickeys are the cats donkey, I like it, only thing I'd do different is add on Ovrszd folding burning table, wheels and FINE thread leveling feet.
Big Barn
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I built a separate burning table. Being as it's the same height as my welding table I can use a pallet jack to place it nearby to be used as an extension for bigger projects.
If I didn't have the space I would have definitely made a folding extension like Richard's.
Terry
Terry, I like your cutting table. That needs to be my next build. I'll also make it the same height as my welding table so I can use it as an extension if needed. If you've seen the one on youtube from Welding Tips and Tricks I might do something similar so I can attach my fume extractor to it.
Big Barn
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That's the plan for mine also. Not much left to do. Just cut a hole in the side for my extractor hose. Just haven't gotten round "tuit".
Terry
dragoneggs
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A little off topic here, but why are fume extractors so expensive? I need to look harder for a used one but they don't seem to pop up often and when they do they command a pretty penny! I'm finding more and more I could really use one to preserve my health a bit. I'm starting to realize my mortality.
They are outrageously expensive. Terry's costs a lot due in part because it recirculates the air and needs HEPA filters, etc. Just the ones with a hose and fan that blow outside are a couple of grand. I hit a lucky strike by finding one that blows outside for $175.00 on Government Surplus Auctions - GovDeals.com
Big Barn
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dragoneggs
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Okay I found a deal on the site you posted! 6qty Lincoln fume extractors! Bid is $1500. This is a steal. I would buy the lot but I'm in Washington State and this is in Mississippi! Who can pick this up for me? Got 10hrs to make the deal. I will pay and give you one and pay for shipping of the rest to me! I'm serious. Where am I going wrong?
Welding Fume Extractors - GovDeals.com
BukitCase
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Auction's closed, went @ $363 and some change EACH - I'm betting there'll be a few of 'em showing up on CL or DaBay for a grand or more...
Jeep, I like your table too, glad you like your 917. Did you get your coolant leaks ALL under control? Hope so.
My mag drill's been a "2-edged sword" of sorts - HELPED on several projects, but CAUSED a couple too. Upside of that is added versatility - I can now drill a 1-1/2" hole in a piece of metal that's only 2" square if I want, and can evenly space holes in a row without ever touching a center punch. Spacing is simple since that XY table's lead screw is 10 TPI - just count the turns... Steve
Jeep, I like your table too, glad you like your 917. Did you get your coolant leaks ALL under control? Hope so.
My mag drill's been a "2-edged sword" of sorts - HELPED on several projects, but CAUSED a couple too. Upside of that is added versatility - I can now drill a 1-1/2" hole in a piece of metal that's only 2" square if I want, and can evenly space holes in a row without ever touching a center punch. Spacing is simple since that XY table's lead screw is 10 TPI - just count the turns... Steve
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BukitCase
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A few more - Those "wall of chips" pix are for the 3 "leg adjusters" on a 24' square roof I built over a 20' container - roof's done now, sides are tarped temporarily - Roof's modular and removable in sections if necessary, but for now it'll give me a dry place to work on anything up to the 580B (which you can see has just enough clearance to drive under) - I can't afford a second shop yet, first one's full of woodworking stuff so I "make do" - once I get a slab poured, those splayed out legs will end up resting on the slab, lagged to it.
Roof completely shades the container, so it's no warmer inside than out - also gives me a 14x24 DRY area to work on stuff, and the container is gonna be my "weld shop" to clear several welders/plasma, etc, out of the garage.
Sorry for the "sidetrack", seemed like each pic needed ANOTHER to explain it
...Steve
Roof completely shades the container, so it's no warmer inside than out - also gives me a 14x24 DRY area to work on stuff, and the container is gonna be my "weld shop" to clear several welders/plasma, etc, out of the garage.
Sorry for the "sidetrack", seemed like each pic needed ANOTHER to explain it
...SteveAttachments
Rustyiron
Super Member
Bukit I like your mag drill vise base:thumbsup:
I've made some "mad max" clamping fandango's on smaller items to do what your set up will do safely & fast.
I've made some "mad max" clamping fandango's on smaller items to do what your set up will do safely & fast.
BukitCase
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Thanks Rusty - between the mag drill itself + the vise table + the XY/dual vise table, I'm surprised I can even FIND anything left to drill holes in :laughing:
Try to drill a "3/4 hole" like this and still have it look like a milling machine job - this let me lock the "floating" lower mounts on my Caroni Flail (an option they should have had from the factory) - plus set up stops so both were identical ...Steve
Try to drill a "3/4 hole" like this and still have it look like a milling machine job - this let me lock the "floating" lower mounts on my Caroni Flail (an option they should have had from the factory) - plus set up stops so both were identical ...Steve
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BukitCase
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"Is your X-Y table from a milling machine or something you came up with otherwise?"
Originally I was trying to "get more" out of my old taiwanese DP, and bought this
6" x 18-1/2" Compound Slide Table | Grizzly Industrial -
Before that went too far I discovered just how futile THAT idea was, so the table sat under a bench (still in its box) long enough for me to almost forget I HAD it - then my company INSISTED that I make a bunch more money working OT, so naturally along came this
Heavy-Duty Mill/Drill with Stand and Power Feed | Grizzly Industrial
followed over the next year or so of continued OT by a couple welders, plasma cutter, the already documented mag drill, etc -
Then, after I built the "MDVT" and found it to be even more useful than I'd thought, I "remembered" that x-y table as I was getting ready for the "terrain-adjustable legs" phase of my "container cover" project - after a couple "minor" tweaks on the original "MDVT" I found room for the x-y table, 'bout the same time HF had these on a coupon for $9.99 each
Drill Press Vise w/ 4" Jaw
There was a slight "height discrepancy" problem, which got resolved with thru-bolts into the steel table and some jam nuts (see pics) and I'm still watching CL for a burned out TABLE model DP I can steal the elevation stuff out of (guess that'll be "phase III") - but for now, anything I can clamp to that x-y table, either with the DP vises or a milling machine clamp set, I can do repetitive holes over a 12" range without re-clamping.
As it sits right now, the x-y table is aligned in its height axis(Z) so mag drill cutter height is constant over the length of table travel, so theoretically I could put the right adapter on the mag drill and do small milling jobs, but considering my OTHER options that seems kinda silly, even for MY demented brain :confused2:
The lead screw on that table is exactly 10TPI (or close enough without needing real machine shop accuracy) so if you want holes on 3/4" centers, you crank the table 7-1/2 turns and drill, repeat as necessary - accuracy was good enough on the messy pic I showed, that all I did over 12" in order to get both sides' holes to line up was to transfer a scribe line to both sides of the tube at one end, and line up the first hole(s) while holding some tension against the table travel. Then it was just "1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10 Drill, repeat..."
Afterward all 13 pairs of opposing holes (I used a 13mm cutter for 1/2" bolts, 0.0118" oversize) lined up fine. They're used for "coarse" adjustment of height, "fine" is accomplished by 1" acme threaded rod between the tube and the C-channel feet. (see earlier pics)
Given the mess annular cutters make (and the fact that my mill currently has to live in a WOOD shop) I find it's less frustrating to make that mess ELSEWHERE, and clean it up with a magnetic sweeper.
I'm sure that as the "saga of my life" continues to unfold (I hope, anyway) that the mill will find a better home, but for now this works for me - plus, where's the FUN in life without a challenge or 27? ...Steve
Originally I was trying to "get more" out of my old taiwanese DP, and bought this
6" x 18-1/2" Compound Slide Table | Grizzly Industrial -
Before that went too far I discovered just how futile THAT idea was, so the table sat under a bench (still in its box) long enough for me to almost forget I HAD it - then my company INSISTED that I make a bunch more money working OT, so naturally along came this
Heavy-Duty Mill/Drill with Stand and Power Feed | Grizzly Industrial
followed over the next year or so of continued OT by a couple welders, plasma cutter, the already documented mag drill, etc -
Then, after I built the "MDVT" and found it to be even more useful than I'd thought, I "remembered" that x-y table as I was getting ready for the "terrain-adjustable legs" phase of my "container cover" project - after a couple "minor" tweaks on the original "MDVT" I found room for the x-y table, 'bout the same time HF had these on a coupon for $9.99 each
Drill Press Vise w/ 4" Jaw
There was a slight "height discrepancy" problem, which got resolved with thru-bolts into the steel table and some jam nuts (see pics) and I'm still watching CL for a burned out TABLE model DP I can steal the elevation stuff out of (guess that'll be "phase III") - but for now, anything I can clamp to that x-y table, either with the DP vises or a milling machine clamp set, I can do repetitive holes over a 12" range without re-clamping.
As it sits right now, the x-y table is aligned in its height axis(Z) so mag drill cutter height is constant over the length of table travel, so theoretically I could put the right adapter on the mag drill and do small milling jobs, but considering my OTHER options that seems kinda silly, even for MY demented brain :confused2:
The lead screw on that table is exactly 10TPI (or close enough without needing real machine shop accuracy) so if you want holes on 3/4" centers, you crank the table 7-1/2 turns and drill, repeat as necessary - accuracy was good enough on the messy pic I showed, that all I did over 12" in order to get both sides' holes to line up was to transfer a scribe line to both sides of the tube at one end, and line up the first hole(s) while holding some tension against the table travel. Then it was just "1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10 Drill, repeat..."
Afterward all 13 pairs of opposing holes (I used a 13mm cutter for 1/2" bolts, 0.0118" oversize) lined up fine. They're used for "coarse" adjustment of height, "fine" is accomplished by 1" acme threaded rod between the tube and the C-channel feet. (see earlier pics)
Given the mess annular cutters make (and the fact that my mill currently has to live in a WOOD shop)
I find it's less frustrating to make that mess ELSEWHERE, and clean it up with a magnetic sweeper. I'm sure that as the "saga of my life" continues to unfold (I hope, anyway
) that the mill will find a better home, but for now this works for me - plus, where's the FUN in life without a challenge or 27? ...SteveAttachments
Rustyiron
Super Member
Since we've totally derailed Jeepnfords beautiful table build thread....
my favorite "hole machine" is my ironworker, but it's reach is also limited.
my favorite "hole machine" is my ironworker, but it's reach is also limited.
Rustyiron
Super Member
It has 4 "stations" a punch that you put different dies into for different size holes, iirc this one will punch a 1" hole in 5/8'', a "notcher" sta, and in the pic, a shear and angle shear.
It is the most fun you can have in the shop with your pants on :laughing:. I had been looking for one for 20 years, all around $4k at auctions. Found this on c/l about 12mi from home for $1800 with a bunch of dies and was set up with the (3) phase converter already.
It is the most fun you can have in the shop with your pants on :laughing:. I had been looking for one for 20 years, all around $4k at auctions. Found this on c/l about 12mi from home for $1800 with a bunch of dies and was set up with the (3) phase converter already.
