raptorterry
Silver Member
This is a good thread but "keeps her deer rifle on the kitchen counter" makes me smile when I think about that part.
Wire Fence unroller, does it exist?
- Thread starter EddieWalker
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This is a good thread but "keeps her deer rifle on the kitchen counter" makes me smile when I think about that part.
quicksandfarmer
Elite Member
Get a quick attach to 3 point adapter and the Tarter unroller and run it off of the front.
oosik
Epic Contributor
OK, well, you have experience that says a 4 foot mesh fence will help. That is good. I used a heavy steel pipe, many one foot chunks of 2x4 with a hole in the center(as spacers) and a 1320 foot roll of barbed wire. Run the heavy pipe between the 3-point lower arms. The roll of barbed wire will be in the center with as many chunks of the 2x4, with holes, as required, as spacers, on each side, keeps the barb wire roll centered AND keeps the roll from unspooling wildly. You could - kind of - call this a squeeze play. After a couple rolls - I put several heavy bungee cords around the 3-point arms - keeps the entire operation squeezed tight.
Tie off one end of the barbed wire to a good anchor point - get back on the tractor and go like smoke & oakum. Once the 1320 is all stretched out - reattach the anchor end to the T-post and begin to stretch, tighten and attach the barbed wire to each T-post , down the run. Repeat - on enfanitum.
My neighbor loaned me his - 4-in-one - barbed wire implement. All four rolls at once. Implement went on the 3-point. After I got all four rolls stretched out - took the better part of a week to - untangle, stretch, tighten & attach. That was the FIRST & LAST time I used that miserable piece of crap. Created far more problems than it would ever solve.
I learned many things installing my mile and a half barbed wire fence around my 80. New four letter words, how to scream louder than I ever thought humanly possible, when you stretch barbed wire too tight and it breaks in the middle, it will COMPLETELY wipe out a quarter acre of sage brush, its best to have knowledgable help rather than go it alone. I never did get help but I got the job done, done right and its still stands - straight & proud - 37 years later.
As heavy as the roll of mesh wire appears to be - I would look to drag some type of "unspooling device" behind either your tractor or an ATV. And it won't be just the weight of the roll. The roll will resist unspooling also.
The simple way - lay the roll on the ground - unspool it flat on the ground - down the run. Go along, pick it up as you go - make temporary Loose attachment to a post - here and there along the run. Put your stretcher on the far end - stretch - start attaching to each post.
Like I've said in other threads. If I were to do it again - it would be far easier. Several - "Open Range Lands" signs strategically placed around the 80. Just fence the area around the house and out buildings.
Maintaining the fence around the 80, keeping the property free and clear of all that is unwanted/undesirable and having a reasonable level of concern about all of this - - a bigger job than I ever envisioned.
Tie off one end of the barbed wire to a good anchor point - get back on the tractor and go like smoke & oakum. Once the 1320 is all stretched out - reattach the anchor end to the T-post and begin to stretch, tighten and attach the barbed wire to each T-post , down the run. Repeat - on enfanitum.
My neighbor loaned me his - 4-in-one - barbed wire implement. All four rolls at once. Implement went on the 3-point. After I got all four rolls stretched out - took the better part of a week to - untangle, stretch, tighten & attach. That was the FIRST & LAST time I used that miserable piece of crap. Created far more problems than it would ever solve.
I learned many things installing my mile and a half barbed wire fence around my 80. New four letter words, how to scream louder than I ever thought humanly possible, when you stretch barbed wire too tight and it breaks in the middle, it will COMPLETELY wipe out a quarter acre of sage brush, its best to have knowledgable help rather than go it alone. I never did get help but I got the job done, done right and its still stands - straight & proud - 37 years later.
As heavy as the roll of mesh wire appears to be - I would look to drag some type of "unspooling device" behind either your tractor or an ATV. And it won't be just the weight of the roll. The roll will resist unspooling also.
The simple way - lay the roll on the ground - unspool it flat on the ground - down the run. Go along, pick it up as you go - make temporary Loose attachment to a post - here and there along the run. Put your stretcher on the far end - stretch - start attaching to each post.
Like I've said in other threads. If I were to do it again - it would be far easier. Several - "Open Range Lands" signs strategically placed around the 80. Just fence the area around the house and out buildings.
Maintaining the fence around the 80, keeping the property free and clear of all that is unwanted/undesirable and having a reasonable level of concern about all of this - - a bigger job than I ever envisioned.
CADplans
Elite Member
My wife wanted woven wire around our garden,, I believe the wire is 4 feet tall.
I simply took the roll to the top of the pasture, and pretty much, let it unroll down the grade,, it did need a little help.
Then we moved it into location.
I am pretty sure we did zero unrolling next to the actual location of the fence, maybe a little towards the end of each roll,,
The fence is super easy to move, compared to unrolling where the fence is being erected,,,
Our fence sits on a treated 2X6,, the 4X4 posts are 5 feet apart,, the total length of the fence I installed is 600 feet,, two rolls.
After the fence was installed, I found out that deer do not like to jump from, or to, a slope.
just by coincidence, that is how my garden is graded,,
in 20 years, a deer has never jumped into the garden,,
There is a strand of un-barbed wire that is at the top of the posts,,
so the total fence height is over 5 feet.
I simply took the roll to the top of the pasture, and pretty much, let it unroll down the grade,, it did need a little help.
Then we moved it into location.
I am pretty sure we did zero unrolling next to the actual location of the fence, maybe a little towards the end of each roll,,
The fence is super easy to move, compared to unrolling where the fence is being erected,,,
Our fence sits on a treated 2X6,, the 4X4 posts are 5 feet apart,, the total length of the fence I installed is 600 feet,, two rolls.
After the fence was installed, I found out that deer do not like to jump from, or to, a slope.
just by coincidence, that is how my garden is graded,,
in 20 years, a deer has never jumped into the garden,,
There is a strand of un-barbed wire that is at the top of the posts,,
so the total fence height is over 5 feet.
rgr33
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DonƧĀØÅ” have any picture, but IĆ„ā¬Ā¤l try to paint a picture of my fence unroller, used in conjunction with my UTV.
I used 2 2x12s, about 2 feet longer than the length of the bed, and cross braced inside the bed.
The on the back end of the overhang, I cut a u shaped slot, angled about 45 degrees back towards the front of the UTV. The slot was just large enough to fit a 2 inch pipe. This cut was angled, in order to stop the 2 inch iron pipe that was used as the center spool on which to hang the roll of fencing, from popping out of the slot as the fence was unrolling.Welded a large washer on each end of the pipe, to keep it from working sideways out of the cradle as the roll unwound. Drove down the line of posts, fence unrolling as you go.
Only downside was, the fence is flat on the ground, so you have to work it a bit to get it in a vertical position for stretching. But that wasnƧĀØÅ” too difficult.
Edit, thats it, I am going to stop using contractions on this site, jeesh.
I used 2 2x12s, about 2 feet longer than the length of the bed, and cross braced inside the bed.
The on the back end of the overhang, I cut a u shaped slot, angled about 45 degrees back towards the front of the UTV. The slot was just large enough to fit a 2 inch pipe. This cut was angled, in order to stop the 2 inch iron pipe that was used as the center spool on which to hang the roll of fencing, from popping out of the slot as the fence was unrolling.Welded a large washer on each end of the pipe, to keep it from working sideways out of the cradle as the roll unwound. Drove down the line of posts, fence unrolling as you go.
Only downside was, the fence is flat on the ground, so you have to work it a bit to get it in a vertical position for stretching. But that wasnƧĀØÅ” too difficult.
Edit, thats it, I am going to stop using contractions on this site, jeesh.
flashpuppy
Silver Member
What about one of these? They work really good and can stretch at the same time!
CountyLine Wire Fence Stretcher at Tractor Supply Co.
CountyLine Wire Fence Stretcher at Tractor Supply Co.
CADplans
Elite Member
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Good video, but not what I'm looking for. Maybe if there is something that fits to a Quick Attachment on the loader?
Turbys_1700
Elite Member
I've run lots of barbed wire years ago as a youngster with my grandfather. We used a section of pipe laid across the top of papaw's pickup with 2x4 studs slipped in the truck's side fenders to hold the pipe. The wire unrolled as the truck was driven down the fence line. Not applicable here.
Looking at the Tarter wire stretcher I would figure out a way to attach it to my fel either via ssqa or perhaps a receiver hitch welded to my bucket to facilitate a 3 point hitch. I understand your keeping the hog attached. Keep us posted on your progress. I'm certain others are as interested in this project as I am
Eddie,
You probably have pallet forks. Buy the CountyLine Wire Fence Stretcher and weld rectangular tubes on the underside of the stretcher where those tubes will slide over the pallet forks. Then chain it in place so that it can't slip off the forks. Then you can use your loader or skid steer or whatever you put your forks on and the fence will unroll as you back up. Or you could get fancy and weld up something that will attach to the forks but position the roller off to one side of the tractor. Then you can drive forward along the fence line as it unrolls.
You can also weld nuts on the tubes that slide over the forks and use a bolt to tighten down onto the fork and hold the whole thing in place.
You could also mount the stretcher on the back of a trailer. Or use a receiver hitch and stick it on the back of your truck.
If you don't have to build the stretcher itself, it shouldn't take you more than an hour or two to fab something up to make it work with whatever you have on hand.
There are a ton of simple solutions. Don't overthink it (I speak from personal experience!).
You probably have pallet forks. Buy the CountyLine Wire Fence Stretcher and weld rectangular tubes on the underside of the stretcher where those tubes will slide over the pallet forks. Then chain it in place so that it can't slip off the forks. Then you can use your loader or skid steer or whatever you put your forks on and the fence will unroll as you back up. Or you could get fancy and weld up something that will attach to the forks but position the roller off to one side of the tractor. Then you can drive forward along the fence line as it unrolls.
You can also weld nuts on the tubes that slide over the forks and use a bolt to tighten down onto the fork and hold the whole thing in place.
You could also mount the stretcher on the back of a trailer. Or use a receiver hitch and stick it on the back of your truck.
If you don't have to build the stretcher itself, it shouldn't take you more than an hour or two to fab something up to make it work with whatever you have on hand.
There are a ton of simple solutions. Don't overthink it (I speak from personal experience!).
We had some deer damage to our grape vines. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources gave us $5000 worth of fencing materials for free. Our fence cost $7000 so I had to make up the difference.
But the DNR also showed up with an enclosed trailer full of all of the tooling for installing fencing and left it on-site for a week or so until I was done. That was sweet!
Another way to attach the fence unroller.
But the DNR also showed up with an enclosed trailer full of all of the tooling for installing fencing and left it on-site for a week or so until I was done. That was sweet!
Another way to attach the fence unroller.
Attachments
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
The attachment to the front bucket looks very interesting. Do you have any more pics of that?
gsganzer
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Eddie,
You might take a look at this old thread. Some good ideas there. The one shown in the second post of that thread would work great on the receiver hitch of my Titan Pallet forks. I could tip the FEL down to "stab" a new roll and then curl up and make it upright.
Very Simple fence unroller
You might take a look at this old thread. Some good ideas there. The one shown in the second post of that thread would work great on the receiver hitch of my Titan Pallet forks. I could tip the FEL down to "stab" a new roll and then curl up and make it upright.
Very Simple fence unroller
aczlan
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I would find or make a 2 inch insert sort of like this one:
Then make a vertical post out of either round or square pipe and put a flat plate on it for the spool to sit on so that it is taller than the receiver insert.
Then you can load the roll of fence wire onto the spindle while it is leaning down and then flip it up and pin it in place to unroll it along the fence line.
Another option, might be to weld a vertical piece of pipe to the tail wheel of your bush hog and set the roll of fence wire on to that.
Aaron Z
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
I handled 165 rolls of V Mesh all by my self with this wire handler. 200 of five foot horse non climb was easy.
The wire stretcher happened because I got tired of replacing boards and bolts on conventional wire stretchers. Itē“ a lot easier to load and wonēØ slip, works like a fire hose in a water gun fight.
The wire stretcher happened because I got tired of replacing boards and bolts on conventional wire stretchers. Itē“ a lot easier to load and wonēØ slip, works like a fire hose in a water gun fight.
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FTG-05
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This isn't hard to do, Eddie.
Back when my pool was being built in 1998, I made a ground tamper out of 2" solid railroad steel rod about 5' long and a railroad tie plate. It looks sorta like this:
Fast forward to 2015 or so and I needed to fence my dog run with +200' of fencing. In this case 5' goat fencing I think they call it. At my age, there is no way I'm walking around trying to unroll a 100' of fencing.
I simply clamped the tamper to one of my forks on the front of the tractor (using another tie plate and some bolts to do the clamping), put the fencing on the steel handle vertically and then unrolling it by driving backwards where the dog run is located.
I don't have pictures of the tamper or while doing the operation but here is a pic of the final product:
In the pic above, you can see my chicken coop attached to my chicken run (two 10'x10' chain link dog run minus one gate section) and then the dog run surrounding that using the one chicken run gate section as the gate for the dog run.
It's in the middle of my Poplar grove so it was a bit tricky maneuvering the tractor while driving backwards, but it worked out great. The fence was tight and is working pretty good (except for some storm damage from falling limbs).
Good luck!
Back when my pool was being built in 1998, I made a ground tamper out of 2" solid railroad steel rod about 5' long and a railroad tie plate. It looks sorta like this:
Fast forward to 2015 or so and I needed to fence my dog run with +200' of fencing. In this case 5' goat fencing I think they call it. At my age, there is no way I'm walking around trying to unroll a 100' of fencing.
I simply clamped the tamper to one of my forks on the front of the tractor (using another tie plate and some bolts to do the clamping), put the fencing on the steel handle vertically and then unrolling it by driving backwards where the dog run is located.
I don't have pictures of the tamper or while doing the operation but here is a pic of the final product:
In the pic above, you can see my chicken coop attached to my chicken run (two 10'x10' chain link dog run minus one gate section) and then the dog run surrounding that using the one chicken run gate section as the gate for the dog run.
It's in the middle of my Poplar grove so it was a bit tricky maneuvering the tractor while driving backwards, but it worked out great. The fence was tight and is working pretty good (except for some storm damage from falling limbs).
Good luck!
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Thank you. The picture of the tamper gives me ideas.
QRTRHRS
Elite Member
One of those two wheeled dolly's with the handle for manually moving small trailers around might be a good base to start from? Not sure if they use a regular ball but if so, replace the ball with a long piece of all thread. Cut a disk out of something for the roll to spin on, slide it down over the all thread then use a piece of heavy schedule PVC pipe with spacers to keep the roll of wire centered. You would need a helper to stabilize the roll while you pulled the cart.
Here are some similar links:
