Woodsplitter build #2

[6sunset6]

Here it is The Movie. I think the pressure spikes when the pump shifts and that is causing the early detent release of the auto valve. I have to have another set of eyes to find out.
Box Wedge Splitter.MOV - YouTube

There are advantages and disadvantages to the box wedge. I think generally I like it, even if I have to use a sledge hammer every once in a while to clear the box.

 

[Scooby074]

Bob, i have that same issue when the oil is cold. Occasionally it kicks at first contact. If i hold the lever however it wont kick. After the oil is warm, this issue never really happens.

I believe, like like yourself that its a pressure spike. I havent adjusted mine yet because it goes away after a bit. Your building a lot of pressure due to your box wedge. On mine i rarely go much over 1000-1500 PSi

There isnt much out there as far as i can see regarding instructions to adjust the valve. I'll be interested in seeing what you find.

You could call Prince's tech line. I talked to them when i was designing mine and they are excellent.

 

[6sunset6]

Jason, your comments have been invaluable, Thanks.
How warm is you oil? I ran for an hour and got to 80d F.

 

[Scooby074]

My tank is around 20 gal i believe and on an average it runs at 100-120F on a typical day after 2-3 hours.

As an iside, i just ran out to check the machine so i could give an accurate estimate of where the gauge reads and i noticed that half my oil is gone!!

And there is yellow snow under the pump!!!. Looks like a blown seal on the pump. Thankfully i put a valve on the pump inlet hose so i closed it to save whats left of the oil.. but this little setback cost me 10Gal of oil or about $75 and now i got to try and get warranty on my pump. Not a good day.

 

[6sunset6]

Bummer

 

[6sunset6]

Jason, Did you find the leak? Not a lot of hours on the pump. I have run 2 of them for years without a leak. Should be repairable if not under warranty.
I have attached the Halex 16gpm pump IPL ( Illustrated Parts List)
Good for reference.

 

[Scooby074]

Bob, thanks for the link.

From what ive seen in my quick look, it appears to be the shaft seal.

I havent started the splitter since ive found the leak. If its just weeping, i can probably get by for a bit by shutting the valve to keep the oil in the tank but if I start it and it really leaks a rebuild is in order.

I got to split a few cord soon.. hope i can get by with it as is for a bit. I bought the splitter 100 miles away and they have no more in stock.

 

[Scooby074]

I think your bad luck Bob :laughing:

split about 1 cord today. Was having some issues with the return valve kicking out even when warm. So i adjusted the detent to keep it in. Worked great..

so i figured i should tweek the forward detent (that was working fine) but kicking out at about 1200 lbs and not near the 2000 relief pressure. I mean, "hey, im paying for 2000 psi, i better use it"

Now i got it all screwed up and neither detent is working Was getting late in the day, so its going to have to wait for the next time im out there to fix my "improvements". Sometimes you just gotta know when to stop screwing around with it.

One thing i noticed is the sweetspot to get both valves cycling properly is VERY tight. 1/32-1/16 of a turn can totally change the performance of the valve.

You may not be aware, but the retract detent should be 300 PSi under relief, with the forward detent 200 psi under that. I found this out after i was screwing with it and got it all messed up. So the forward detent was pretty much set right before i messed with it.:mur:

Took a few pics of the adjustment location if you were unaware, and the leak. Dont call the EPA

Little Valdez

Oil on punp

Adjustment

 

[6sunset6]

Attached is the paperwork for that valve.
I have noticed that finicky adjustment. This is funny. The valve is rated 3000 psi max but the max detent is 2000 psi. Then the actual detent settings are below 2000. I guess they could be raised a bit . Oh I just figured it out, if you hold the handle manually you can reach the relief setting. I did read somewhere that someone set the detents higher and blew out the seals.

" but the retract detent should be 300 PSi under relief, with the forward detent 200 psi under that" under should be over
I think you have this a little confused or maybe it's me
Relief 2 200 psi higher than relief 1 and 300 psi below relief So if relief is at 2000 than detent 1 which is retract is 1500 and relief 2 is 1700. The net of this is that the ram will stop at a 1500 psi spike. As you said maybe when it heats up the spikes go away. I am still confused as to why it just stops and does not retract when spiked. I guess it's all in the detent springs and ports.

 

[6sunset6]

More observations
Hour meter is right on the money. Time goes by fast when splitting 10 hrs on it.
Need a debris skid for underneath it . I fill firewood skids so fast the forks are always on the tractor. Even though I have a skid steer front adapter it's a pain to shovel debris into the bucket. If I have a shallow skid with sides and a removable end door I can leave it under the splitter grate. Won't get it all but most. The move it and dump it with the forks. Oh yeah have to figure out how to not dump the skid at the same time.
Lets see what else. Filled all my firewood skids. Now that's a problem I have 40 rounds to go. Maybe 6 skids but I only have cover for 3 more . I guess loose in the wood shed. Bummer.
One more thing Cold oil does not like to go through the filter. Bypass is 25 psi When it runs for 15 min or so it looks like it is warm enough to go through the filter and at maybe 70d the back pressure is zero. After an hour and 45 min the tank was at 80d the filter was warmer than that and the motor was cooler than the filter.
Looks good to me except for lack of skids. I got to move this thing to its permanent home. I finally split all the rounds that were in the way of installing the outlet out there.