XR3037H RPM up and down after a few minutes of operation.
- Thread starter Icenam
- Start date
George2615
Super Member
I'm not familiar with your Nexlink or how to set it up. I use an ELM plugged into the port (bluetooth connects it to my phone) and used a program Cummins Fault advisor (free download). It will read a lot of functions and most show a numerical value which I can take a snapshot and download on my computer but did not see any way to read or clear codes. I've pretty much given up since it seems all the stuff you want to read or reset is dealer only.
There is a company or two that do sell tractor diagnostic tools but the cost is $3500-6000 depending on which one you buy. Way to rich for me. I'll just have to save up for the day I have to take it to the dealer for a problem. I'll probably jinx myself but I guess I've been lucky with no problems the past 8 years.
Can you send me info on the ELM? I'm dead in the water unless I can figure out what I need to get this hunk of iron runnining. LS said they can't do anything about the dealer support from Daves Tractor up here. They basically said it's my problem. I just need to know what parts to order to fix this thing. LS dealer in Spokane WA said they would sent parts up if I know what I need.
George2615
Super Member
Its ELM327. I ordered mine off Ebay but it shows currently out of stock. Also link to Amazom also out of stock.
See post 44 in the below thread. If I recall it was under $34.
www.tractorbynet.com
See post 44 in the below thread. If I recall it was under $34.
Diagnostic code reader
Would think there would would be a E & D pins for programming ...
www.tractorbynet.com
Avenger
Veteran Member
I was just reading through this thread. First, I'm sorry for you're continued issues. There is a reason why LS moved away from those Shibaura engines. That doesn't help you though. I'm thinking that you might actually have a plugged up DPF. Though the temp sensor could also be at fault. For that fact, many things could be the issue. We need to methodically diagnose the issue, not simply shotgun issues. Start with the simple and move to the complex. Your tractor has a looping idle no matter what you're doing. It will not complete a regen cycle, it goes into limp mode. You have already replaced the fuel, filters, etc. Checked battery cables, and loose wires. Thats the simple and obvious, but didn't fix the issue. Lets move on.
At first glance, the pin hole in the fuel line might sound good. But typically that issue will kill the tractor and it wont start again. When a diesel sucks air, even a little, it dies. That was my first call to my dealer (Spokane Cascade Tractor). Tractor suddenly died while working, my basic diagnostics didnt pan out (I did check the fuel line, no leaks), called the dealer. They came out, we spent several hours diagnosing (with his laptop scanner tool too) trying to find the issue. It wasnt until the mechanic accidently touched the fuel line that we noticed a single small drip of fuel coming from it. Replaced the line, primed, and not had an issue since.
Eliminating the fuel leak sucking air, lets look at the ECT. The ECT or the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located where the top radiator hose enters the engine block on your tractor. It is part number 40283508 from LS. Before ordering, you can check it for continuity. There should be a range of resistance based on actual engine temp that it will show. You will need an ohm meter, an IR thermometer, and a service manual. That might be an issue. If you don't know the resistance range for the coolant temp, how would you know what ohms are good? But, you can at least see if you're getting resistance. Unplug your ECT, put your meter on ohms, and probe the blades. Some resistance is good, a ton is bad, and none is bad. For example: the service manual for my tractor's ECT specifies the resistance to be 9.675 ohms at -10C to .148 ohms at 110C. Yours are probably similar. Your ECU should be throwing a code on your dash if your ECT is acting up. However, ECT's are cheap, and yours appears to be a chinch to replace. Simply replace it if you feel the need.
However, I suspect your tractor might have a plugged up DPF (among other DPF related issues such as your ACV (Air Control Valve) on the DPF system that is malfunctioning not regulating the proper amount of air/fuel mixture into the DPF during regen. Could be the DPF temp sensor being faulty (Ohm range on mine: 170.2 at -40C 849.7 at 1,000C EGT). If this is the case, a plugged DPF, you'll need to have it serviced at the dealer. I'm sorry. There are videos on YT that show how to clean them, but I cannot recommend them, and playing with them can seriously screw up your engine. Replacing sensors is one thing, taking the filter off and pressure washing it is another.
Before doing anything, give Cascade Tractor a call in Spokane and ask for the service manual for your tractor. If they can get it (which I'm sure they will, just depends on how much money), it will save you a ton of time an guess work. These government regulations on these tractors suck. It causes more issues that they are worth. But lets get you up and running, then complain.
At first glance, the pin hole in the fuel line might sound good. But typically that issue will kill the tractor and it wont start again. When a diesel sucks air, even a little, it dies. That was my first call to my dealer (Spokane Cascade Tractor). Tractor suddenly died while working, my basic diagnostics didnt pan out (I did check the fuel line, no leaks), called the dealer. They came out, we spent several hours diagnosing (with his laptop scanner tool too) trying to find the issue. It wasnt until the mechanic accidently touched the fuel line that we noticed a single small drip of fuel coming from it. Replaced the line, primed, and not had an issue since.
Eliminating the fuel leak sucking air, lets look at the ECT. The ECT or the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located where the top radiator hose enters the engine block on your tractor. It is part number 40283508 from LS. Before ordering, you can check it for continuity. There should be a range of resistance based on actual engine temp that it will show. You will need an ohm meter, an IR thermometer, and a service manual. That might be an issue. If you don't know the resistance range for the coolant temp, how would you know what ohms are good? But, you can at least see if you're getting resistance. Unplug your ECT, put your meter on ohms, and probe the blades. Some resistance is good, a ton is bad, and none is bad. For example: the service manual for my tractor's ECT specifies the resistance to be 9.675 ohms at -10C to .148 ohms at 110C. Yours are probably similar. Your ECU should be throwing a code on your dash if your ECT is acting up. However, ECT's are cheap, and yours appears to be a chinch to replace. Simply replace it if you feel the need.
However, I suspect your tractor might have a plugged up DPF (among other DPF related issues such as your ACV (Air Control Valve) on the DPF system that is malfunctioning not regulating the proper amount of air/fuel mixture into the DPF during regen. Could be the DPF temp sensor being faulty (Ohm range on mine: 170.2 at -40C 849.7 at 1,000C EGT). If this is the case, a plugged DPF, you'll need to have it serviced at the dealer. I'm sorry. There are videos on YT that show how to clean them, but I cannot recommend them, and playing with them can seriously screw up your engine. Replacing sensors is one thing, taking the filter off and pressure washing it is another.
Before doing anything, give Cascade Tractor a call in Spokane and ask for the service manual for your tractor. If they can get it (which I'm sure they will, just depends on how much money), it will save you a ton of time an guess work. These government regulations on these tractors suck. It causes more issues that they are worth. But lets get you up and running, then complain.
Avenger you have been a wonderful help. Your information gives me some sort of direction now. I'll give Cascade a call and see if they can sell me the service book. I'm going to be out a ton of money if I have to have this thing air lifted back out during the summer so I really need to dig in and figure things out since the dealer refuses to work with us. I'm to the point of offering Cascade an all expense payed trip (fishing included) to Alaska to get this thing running. My son lives in Spokane so he could pick the service manual up and get it up to me. I will do the ohm test and keep you posted. Thanks so much for your help.
inpo44
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2012
- Messages
- 54
- Location
- Mid Missouri
- Tractor
- New Holland TC45D, TN60DA, Workmaster 37
George2615
Super Member
Sorry, I missed your reply. Myself and the OP have older model LS tractors with the Shibaura engine. Yours has the LS engine. Shibaura engine regens every 5 hours, LS is supposed to regen every 50 hours.