ym2210 d that has been sitting 3 yrs

Car Doc · Sep 14, 2012

Heat is either a bad connection/cable or very high resistance same exact thing. Ground the jumper battery/car to the starter or block directly and use 2 sets of cables if necessary. Most cheap sets wont even run a pair of speakers let alone carry a few hundred amps jmho. I see Clemson has said the same thing its unanimous! :laughing: :thumbsup:

California · Sep 14, 2012

... And if your entire starting system (starter, cables, battery) from the old 2210 won't crank the new tractor fast enough - This $100 fix might get it back in service:

When I needed a starter for my YM240 (YM2000) I bought a 2.0 Kw starter to replace the 1.3~1.4 Kw oem starter. Now the YM240 cranks frantically fast and fires on the first stroke. The high amperage starter has nearly identical dimensions. It is specified for larger 4 cylinder Yanmars and Deeres.

I think YM2210 takes the same 15 tooth starter as YM2000/YM240.

Here are some old posts where I described the stronger starter:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/232442-ym1700-wont-start-2.html#post2688104

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/232442-ym1700-wont-start-2.html#post2688398

Ginormous · Sep 14, 2012

I went the same route as California to replace the starter on my YM1700. I was a little nervous about it fitting, but it ended up working out great.

careyo63 · Sep 14, 2012

75.00$ to rebuild the Org. Starter on my 2000. Been 2yrs. now without any prob. Hard to beat that!

Smoody · Sep 15, 2012

Got her running today, the injector lines were clogged, but got it running, no bubbles in radiator, no weird knocks from engine, sounds just like my other 2210.

Now for the issue (did we really think it was going to be this easy?)
I put it in gear and it didn't go anywhere, but after pressing clutch in and letting it out hard it starting moving but I hear a whine in it, drove it in all gears around the yard then tried the 3 point, it doesn't lift, went to ride again now it doesn't move, the hydro fluid is definately contaminated with water after checking it once I got it running, I'm guessing water is the reason for the intermittent working / not working?

Bout to drain the trans fluid and clean screen, post back in a bit.

winston1 · Sep 15, 2012

Sounds like your headed the right direction. Stopped up screen causes lots of problems.

deepNdirt · Sep 15, 2012

we knew you'd get figured out, what was the starting issue? did it need a starter? ... Draining / changing the hydraulic fluid and filter will likely get it back pulling again, But if there is a substance can be used to flush out the system of all the water/contaminants I believe I'd go ahead and flush it out before all the expense of the hydraulic fluid, But on the other hand the price you got this tractor for you will be ahead even if you do have to waist 5 gal. of fluid,

California · Sep 15, 2012

Until you decide if this tractor is worth pouring more money into - I would give the good tractor a hydraulic fluid change and re-use that fluid for the questionable one. Do your own VN style refurb!

If the tractor turns out good then you can consider that as a flush-out fluid and replace it with new.

I've never done this with fluids, but I have bought my wife a new battery for her car then put the old battery in the tractor to get the last couple of years life out of it.

California · Sep 15, 2012

I think it was in this thread where I saw the question of whether you can pull-start a Powershift Yanmar. I've seen two experienced dealers post that its impossible. The reason is because the PS internal clutches are engaged by hydraulic pressure, and the PS internal hydraulic pump is driven by the input shaft that comes back from the clutch. That input shaft can only be rotated by the engine.