My pole barn...a solo affair

[bindian]

I'd hang the frame then add siding, unless you have help. (other than the dog)
Hanging the frame will be enough of a chore without the extra weight.

Erik,
You might have a point as the top of the door frame will be up under the sliding rail flashing and have to lift it up so the hangar bolts will slide into their holes. I might just secure the suspended door frame with straps while I sheet it.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Brandi,

I built mine on the ground. Two 6'x10' to cover a 10'x10' opening. 2x4 frame with cross braces. 1/4" plywood on the inside for stiffness. I installed the 26 ga. tin before installing the door.

It was all me and two other "good sized" men could do to lift the doors into the tracks.

It was much easier to get the door square building it on the ground.

If I were to build another one, I would wait about installing the tin until I had the door hung. You do need to go ahead and install the 1/4" plywood on the inside of the frame to keep it from racking when you lift it.

Chris

Firefighter9208,
I didn't think about plywood. Did you sheet the whole door or just corner gussets with plywood? The wire bracing I will use will be liter and will not accumulate creep crawlers in the corners.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Brandi, my advice would be to build the frame on the ground and hang it before sheathing because of weight. Even with some help it will be heavy. What I would do though is when you have the frame on the ground and can square it up properly, tack on some temporary diagonal supports on the inside of the door. Once hung you can add your finish material on the outside face to lock it square and remove the inside temporary bracing.

MarkV

MarkV,
Thanks for the input. I hope the wires and splice plates and angle braces will hold the "squareness" until I sheet it with tin.
hugs, Brandi

 

[FxdGrMind]

I did my 12x11' (Sliding door) with Wire tension turnbuckles to adjust square.

I added the rollers to the top and slid it onto the channel then squared it up, then sheeted it. Worked great and there was NO way I could ever have done it alone with anything more attached to the door. I didn't have a tractor at the time and I'm not sure it would help in any case as it was tricky enough to get the rollers into the channel.

Next time I do it, I'll probably hang the top with rollers into the channel, then build it while hanging, using the Wire Tensioning to square it. But as I didn't try that method I'm not sure if it would or would not work. Sure would have been easier though weight wise, if it were to work.

My building method.... trial and error.....

 

[firefighter9208]

Firefighter9208,
I didn't think about plywood. Did you sheet the whole door or just corner gussets with plywood? The wire bracing I will use will be liter and will not accumulate creep crawlers in the corners.
hugs, Brandi

Brandi,

I built my doors the way a local company that builds pole barns and chicken houses builds their sliding doors.

1. Lay 2x4's flat on the ground. You don't want the door real thick, so you'll be looking at the flat "wide" side of the 2x4.

2. I bought metal corner braces. You'll see in the pictures.

3. I put a 2x4 around the outside and one every 2' on center top to bottom (Across the door). That was you had something to screw the tin and plywood to.

4. Sheath the whole inside of the door with 1/2" or 1/4" plywood, but leave a gap at the top to get to the adjusting hardware.

5. If you'll have help ( 1 person) and use The Big Red Beast to hang the doors, I would go ahead and put the outside tin on the doors before installing them.

Here are the pics:

 

[bindian]

I did my 12x11' (Sliding door) with Wire tension turnbuckles to adjust square.

I added the rollers to the top and slid it onto the channel then squared it up, then sheeted it. Worked great and there was NO way I could ever have done it alone with anything more attached to the door. I didn't have a tractor at the time and I'm not sure it would help in any case as it was tricky enough to get the rollers into the channel.

Next time I do it, I'll probably hang the top with rollers into the channel, then build it while hanging, using the Wire Tensioning to square it. But as I didn't try that method I'm not sure if it would or would not work. Sure would have been easier though weight wise, if it were to work.

My building method.... trial and error.....

FxdGrMind,
Thanks! I have been planning to hang the top board and go from there to get accurate measurements. I am not sure which way I will go after that, but it will be clear to me on that day. Probably a little of doing it both ways. If that makes any sense.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Brandi,

I built my doors the way a local company that builds pole barns and chicken houses builds their sliding doors.

1. Lay 2x4's flat on the ground. You don't want the door real thick, so you'll be looking at the flat "wide" side of the 2x4.

2. I bought metal corner braces. You'll see in the pictures.

3. I put a 2x4 around the outside and one every 2' on center top to bottom (Across the door). That was you had something to screw the tin and plywood to.

4. Sheath the whole inside of the door with 1/2" or 1/4" plywood, but leave a gap at the top to get to the adjusting hardware.

5. If you'll have help ( 1 person) and use The Big Red Beast to hang the doors, I would go ahead and put the outside tin on the doors before installing them.

Here are the pics:

Firefighter9208,
Thanks. That is basically how I had it built in my mind. However, I need to buy some 2x4s to put in the middle for screwing tin to. I didn't think of that. My frame will be 2x6s. I do want to find the corner braces like you installed. Also, my barn is red with white trim like yours! I am gonna get some white 3 foot squares of tin and make the door a red and white checker board. I also have red trim from Mueller to go on the end boards and bottom board.
hugs, Brandi

 

[firefighter9208]

Brandi,

I bought the brackets at home depot. Shouldn't be too hard to find.

Chris

 

[bindian]

Brandi,

I bought the brackets at home depot. Shouldn't be too hard to find.

Chris

Ok. Thanks. That will make the frame easier to build then the way I was going to brace it and maybe cheaper! I know right were to go at Lowes. I try not to do Home Depot.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Luke and I hung the frame of the barn door last Saturday. It was easier than I thought. I hung it to get dimensions for brackets under the door to roll on when opening and closing. I will hang metal after final hanging of the door. Look close and you will see the "X" bracing wire that really works to put the frame square.
It has almost had no work on it the last two years while taking care Mom and Dad and their estate, but now I have some cash to finish it. It was two years ago, February, I started the siding. So now the door with it's checkboard siding will be finished soon!
hugs, Brandi

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Good deal Brandi. Glad to see someone is making headway.:thumbsup: I feel like all I've been doing is treading water. The more that I do, the more that I have to maintain. It's a vicious circle. :smiley_aafz::ashamed:

 

[firefighter9208]

Luke and I hung the frame of the barn door last Saturday. It was easier than I thought. I hung it to get dimensions for brackets under the door to roll on when opening and closing. I will hang metal after final hanging of the door. Look close and you will see the "X" bracing wire that really works to put the frame square.
It has almost had no work on it the last two years while taking care Mom and Dad and their estate, but now I have some cash to finish it. It was two years ago, February, I started the siding. So now the door with it's checkboard siding will be finished soon!
hugs, Brandi

Brandi,

The door looks good!!! Looks like you used the braces on the corners like I did. Are you going to put plywood on the inside to help with the structural integrity or just put the metal on the outside???

Chris

 

[bindian]

Good deal Brandi. Glad to see someone is making headway.:thumbsup: I feel like all I've been doing is treading water. The more that I do, the more that I have to maintain. It's a vicious circle. :smiley_aafz::ashamed:

Brian,
It sure feels good. Had a hiccup this last week. My 2002 Cummins in my Ram 2500 needed $260 in auto transmission cooler pressure lines. They keep making it harder and harder to fix with baling wire and duct tape!
hugs, Branid

 

[bindian]

Brandi,

The door looks good!!! Looks like you used the braces on the corners like I did. Are you going to put plywood on the inside to help with the structural integrity or just put the metal on the outside???

Chris

Chris,
Thanks!:thumbsup: I won't be using plywood gussets as the metal corner braces, the 2x4 bracing, the corner and T brackets, along with the wire make it stout enough. I tipped it on one corner, by accident, with my backhoe before adding the 2x4 braces (also for metal attachment) and the door held.
hugs, Brandi

 

[firefighter9208]

Sounds good!!!


Chris

 

[bindian]

Since my last post I had shoulder surgery (in August) for an injury at work and Bunion and hammer toe surgery last Dec. I was off work for 15 weeks before the shoulder surgery, so the door frame was all I did in 2010.

I decided I needed to pour the concrete center floor before finishing the door. Before that I needed to get electrical power permanently out to the barn. I wanted to run cable to handle 50 amps for a welder. When I went to hook up the cable to my meter pole, three weeks ago, I found carpenter ants had ate the center out of the meter pole.

So the last two weekends I have been installing a 200 amp meter pole. I always like handling electricity real slow. I had a new air conditioner service disconnect box installed on the new pole and wired it wrong, as the switch is hidden in plastic. I fried the switch when I turned on the breaker. The 30 amp breaker tripped with such force it almost popped out of the breaker box, as the metal face was off.

So I used the old rusted service disconnect box I got from my Dad when I installed the pole back in 1994. I like it because it has a huge external handle that opens the circuit and every time I see it, I think of Dad.

Anyway, I got all the service reconnected and took a break and took the fried disconnect box apart out of curiosity and found it was simple to fix, as only one contact was welded and popped loose without tools. So now I have a new air conditioner service disconnect box sitting on a shelf in my shop waiting for the day when my son may need it!

I got to play with the Big RED Beast a bunch in this project including the hydraulic auger. I had to dig down 5 feet for the pole to meet code. So I am truly glad I bought the Danuser hydrualic auger. I need an extension for the auger bits, as I had to dig out a hole, to hit 5 feet, for the motor to go down enough.

The pole was 25 feet long, so I was kind of nervous as I hoisted it up with a chain at the 13 foot mark, but the Big RED Beast's loader bucket made the job easy.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I hung the door frame, again today, to get an idea for the concrete slope at the door way. I also finally figured out how to hang the door with the Big RED Beast's loader bucket.:thumbsup: I then decided to fit the door roller brackets.

I would have used "store bought" rails, but I could only find the bottom rails at Tractor Supply Co. by special order and I would have had to buy 10 rails. The brackets TSC had in stock were just too expensive.

So I made some brackets from 1/8 thick 1 inch strap and bent them at work.:licking: The wheels were found online at Grizzly.com -- Home) Anyway, it took way to long to get the rollers just right and clear the door.

But they are done and now I can hang the door anytime and sheet it in the red and white "Purina" checkboard pattern.

Hopefully in the next few weeks I can get the concrete contractor to pour the 6 inch concrete in the center section.
hugs, Brandi

 

[jinman]

Brandi, you are just waaay too self-reliant. Nice job! I am a bit mystified at your checkerboard pattern. You might have folks drivin' up your driveway thinkin' your barn is a feed store.:laughing:

I'm looking forward to seeing the floor poured and the doors in place.:thumbsup:

 

[mikim]

Brandi, you are just waaay too self-reliant. Nice job! I am a bit mystified at your checkerboard pattern. You might have folks drivin' up your driveway thinkin' your barn is a feed store.:laughing:

I'm looking forward to seeing the floor poured and the doors in place.:thumbsup:

Totally agree with everything Jim said. Like the checkerboard idea. It'll give it character:thumbsup:

 

[bindian]

Mike and Jim,
Thanks. Yeah, I know, I can be intimidating.
hugs, Brandi