Ford 1500/1700 injector pump

[barbqranch]

McMaster Carr shows 1/16 pipe plugs and taps.

 

[rayikeo2]

Is this really a good idea? Is there a chance of ruining the pump? Is it necessary to drill into a closed system? Doesn't this pump have some other means of lubrication? I sure would get the answers before attempting to drill into a $600+ pump.:confused2:

 

[JC-jetro]

Let me "fire" this subject up again. My 1980 1500 pump DOES NOT have the drain/fill-level screws in the pump housing either. I only want to have to tackle this one time and be done with it. I do plan to remove the cover when I drill-n-tap and then clean it all out real good....BUT....my question is, what size bit and tap did anybody use?

A 1/4 x 20 looks about right as far as diameter goes, but I don't know how much of a boss I have for the course threaded bolt to grab and am thinking a fine thread should be used, or maybe even a 1/16th. pipe plug. I forget what the threads are on the plug that is a step below the 1/8 NPT plug, but I have a few of those that came out of Harley EFI lines I have accumulated over the years. The plug is used in a fuel pressure port for testing on the fuel injected models. A plumber friend of mine told me there was no such thing as a 1/16th. pipe plug when I went in to purchase a tap....but I have a few that I call a 1/16th. because they are a step below a 1/8th. and look like they will fit these bosses on the pump just fine.

In any event....what did somebody that has actually made this modification use?

I have some notes to self on my paper manual about amount of oil in the injector pump. I'm out of town and can't exactly remember the amount but it is very little ... I think less than 2 OZ. If you use dedicated baby food glass jar and mark the 2oz then you can fill it to the right amount without having to bore the level hole on the pump. If you loosen the back plate just a crack, then you can push the oil out using a bit of compressed air on the fill hole. I have quick connect nozzle attachments for my air compressor and couple of other air bottles. I use the conical shape nozzle and push a bit of air on top and all the oil promptly comes out. You can just put in the pre measured amount in.

JC,

P.s . Buy a funnel combo from HF for $.99 (orange color) and it has several size funnels, the littlest one is just about perfect to put in the injector pump inlet and dump in the oil in.

 

[JC-jetro]

Is this really a good idea? Is there a chance of ruining the pump? Is it necessary to drill into a closed system? Doesn't this pump have some other means of lubrication? I sure would get the answers before attempting to drill into a $600+ pump.:confused2:

Ray,

The lubrication of this pump is stand alone and not connected to crankcase oil as some other model. It is essential to replace this oil every 300 hrs. I know I was the only one who changed it amongst two other previous owners. @ 900 hrs and 30 years, it looked dirty but not too bad as there is no product of combustion missing with the oil like crankcase. what I suggested in previous post is not a bad idea. I would have done it myself if I did not have the drain and level holes tapped.

JC,

 

[rayikeo2]

JC, I am sitting here thinking about different ways the oil could be changed in a pump with only a fill plug and came up with this off the wall idea. Go to a farm or pet store and buy a large plastic syringe, attach to this a 6" piece of small clear plastic tube where the needle attaches. Push all the air out, insert it into the pump and pull up on the plunger till it fills the syringe. Empty it out put in the same amount of new oil re-insert the tube and push it into the pump. What do you think, will it work?

 

[rayikeo2]

Ray,

The lubrication of this pump is stand alone and not connected to crankcase oil as some other model. It is essential to replace this oil every 300 hrs. I know I was the only one who changed it amongst two other previous owners. @ 900 hrs and 30 years, it looked dirty but not too bad as there is no product of combustion missing with the oil like crankcase. what I suggested in previous post is not a bad idea. I would have done it myself if I did not have the drain and level holes tapped.

JC,

JC, I am sitting here thinking about different ways the oil could be changed in a pump with only a fill plug and came up with this off the wall idea. Go to a farm or pet store and buy a large plastic syringe, attach to this a 6" piece of small clear plastic tube where the needle attaches. Push all the air out, insert it into the pump and pull up on the plunger till it fills the syringe. Empty it out put in the same amount of new oil re-insert the tube and push it into the pump. What do you think, will it work?

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, I am sitting here thinking about different ways the oil could be changed in a pump with only a fill plug and came up with this of the wall idea. Go to a farm or pet store and buy a large plastic syringe, attach to this a 6" piece of small clear plastic tube where the needle attaches. Push all the air out, insert it into the pump and pull up on the plunger till it fills the syringe. Empty it out put in the same amount of new oil re-insert the tube and push it into the pump. What do you think, will it work?

I thinkit is harder to suck the oil thru small dia hose if the oil is really dirty, cold and I'm not sure if you can get the tube all the way to the bottom of reservoir to suck it all up. I kind of suggested the opposite, as to put compressed air from the top and have the back plate slightly ajar. That will for sure expel the completely and quickly. I have done it the same, I opened the drain and instead of gravity flow pushed in air from the top and in 2 seconds all the oil was expelled.

JC,

 

[old1500]

I lean toward everybody's concern about poking a hole into the pump and I really do think it's a bad idea to do it without removing the cover to make sure everything is out of the way. If I do...I planned to only drill the drain hole, but would open it up first. I am leaning to JC's idea of just "cracking" the cover and draining the oil. I am just not sure of how much to put back in.

Maybe I will just measure what comes out and replace that with a little extra for any loss through weeping or vaporization over the years. My gosh....this thing is 30-years old and likely never had that oil changed since it was born in the first place. As I consider this....once in my remaining lifetime is probably enough since it has lasted 30-years like it is!

 

[rayikeo2]

Old1500 maybe yours works like the 1710 models describbed below.

From the FO-44 shop manual: The injection pump on 1700, 1710 models uses the same oil as used in the engine. Recommend 200 hour changes. On 1710 models the injection pump utilizes oil from the engine crankcase for lubrication. When changing engine oil (every 100 hours of opperation) add approcimately 150 mL or (5 oz) through pump filler opening. For 1910 & 2110 models add 235 mL (8 oz).

Maybe, (I don't know) this could apply to those pumps without filler and drain holes. I sure would find out before drilling holes in a good working pump!
I am a beliver in the rule: If it aint broke don't fix it.
My interpertation of these instructions is that the injecter pump oil in those pumps with out holes is lubricated by engine oil and every time the engine oil is drained the pump also drains therefore the instructon to add oil in the pump filler tube each time you change engine oil is to insure that the pump is not running dry for the length of time it takes to recirculate engine oil into the pump. This opinion needs to be verified before drilling holes.

 

[sld]

The fuel pump on my 1210 bolts to the front of the block and is driven by the first three lobes of the cam shaft. It appears to use engine oil for this.

Are the "00 series gear driven external to the engine?