Hydraulic Auger Mount

[dfkrug]

I wanted a loader bucket position to dig holes for a fence line and getting on and off the BH every two holes to move the tractor gets old.

That makes sense.

My Worksaver units have shear bolts but they are unnecessary since the
relief valve opens when your auger gets stuck. I have so many rocks that
a PHD is essentially unusable here.

 

[RFB]

dfkrug,

Sir,

I am contemplating the purchase of a hydro auger and your comment regarding rocks strikes home. (Idaho, where all rocks left over from creation were deposited.)

What is your opinion regarding an auger bit along the lines of this McMillen Rock Ripper Auger Bits (was HDR Style) for your Skid Steer, Skidsteer, Hydraulic Drive Auger Unit in 2" Hex shaft size, 48" length
as being useful for rocky ground.

I am planning on a fence with several hundred 6x6 PT posts, and cannot envision another method for the holes. What do you think?

 

[dfkrug]

What is your opinion regarding an auger bit along the lines of this McMillen Rock Ripper Auger Bits (was HDR Style) for your Skid Steer, Skidsteer, Hydraulic Drive Auger Unit in 2" Hex shaft size, 48" length
as being useful for rocky ground.

I am planning on a fence with several hundred 6x6 PT posts, and cannot envision another method for the holes. What do you think?

McMillen and Danuser seem to be the most common vendor for
Skidsteer-driven PHDs. I looked at that link, and those are carbide-tipped
auger bits. That is what you want if you have to drill thru rocks.

For a fence, you may want to consider using a post driver and steel
posts, or even a small diameter bit to go thru the rocks. If you use
galv pipe for posts (thick-walled, like IMC conduit), you can drill holes
that are very small. I can't see you spending an hour per post trying to get
a 6+" auger very deep thru rocks. Not for a fence, anyway.

For my retaining wall tiebacks, the company I hired used carbide-tipped
drills that were about 2" diameter.

 

[bindian]

Well, I have been searching for a diverter valve joystick knob with a switch in it. Only found Pilot Automotive's that I wanted to use. It had a hinged top with the switch inside. But they discontinued that switch knob. So I am making my own. I found Custom Assessory's Billet Shifter Knob would work. It's top unscrews for hiding cash in it. As it turns out, the whole knob unscrews into 4 pieces. It came with plastic inserts for different sized shifters. I didn't think a plastic insert would work too long, so I found a steel AN/pipe thread adapter (Tractor folks call them JIC) fitting in my saved old aircraft hardware and ground it down to fit inside the knob.:thumbsup: I ground it down after tapping it for 7/16-20 threads. A 7/16-20 tap takes a letter "W" drill bit. Now who would guess that old AN fitting was right at letter W size? It was, and the mild steel was easy to tap.:cloud9: This week, at work after the planes are finished, I will "hand" machine a curved shim for the inside for a hinge mount and "fashion" some kind of switch mount. I say fashion as the exact mounting bracket design has not "popped" into my head yet.:mur: So I am thinking of numerous options to mount the hinge at this time.:2cents: Anyway, I got the knob fitting tight on my loader's joystick.

........oh yeah, the knob, Radio Shack switches (will return the larger size) and minature hinge cost me $23.60. The knob with the switch that was discontinued cost $57.00.

That camera ham in the last photo is Booger. He is always near by when I am on the tractor. He thinks I am going to dig him a cool new place to nap in.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I have ordered this valve....... Surplus Center - 12 VDC 13.2 GPM SAE 8 DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE

Depending on plumbing logistics, I think I have room on the inside loader frame vertical (just down from the loader valve and joystick) to tap holes to mount it with. Just waiting on the mail now.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bkc]

bindian,
I have put the same valve on my 5500. I dont know if there is more room on your 6520 between the loader frame and the sheet metal, but I could not get it to fit on mine. I made up a plate to mount valve, and move my joystic closer to the seat.

I tried to find a link to the knob with switch that I used, with no luck?? Time will tell if my switch will hold up to the weather. I hope to have everthing up and working this weekend.


Brian

 

[bindian]

bindian,
I have put the same valve on my 5500. I dont know if there is more room on your 6520 between the loader frame and the sheet metal, but I could not get it to fit on mine. I made up a plate to mount valve, and move my joystic closer to the seat.

I tried to find a link to the knob with switch that I used, with no luck?? Time will tell if my switch will hold up to the weather. I hope to have everthing up and working this weekend.


Brian

BCK,
I have 4.5 to 5 inches between the engine side cowl and the loader mast. This depends on valve port positions. Your installation is nice, but I get on and off the tractor on the right side also. Your switch is what I wanted, but that switch online now is discontinued from the manufacturer.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I finished the knob switch and wiring harness. The knob is from Custom Accessories and picked it up at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $12.99, along with 8 feet of 1/4 inch heat shrink for $5.29. I love running wires in heat shrink, as it makes a nice black harness installation. The switch is from here.... Mini SPST 1.5-Amp Momentary Pushbutton Switch (2-Pack) - RadioShack.com and cost $3.19 for two switches. For a total of $21.47, not counting the wire I already had.

I had to counterbore the top of the knob for the switch, as the top is over .6 of an inch thick. Which makes the switch tuck nicely inside the top.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bkc]

The switch looks good, nice job.

I did find the switch I used, I bought mine on amazon though.... I have never delt with this company. about the same price, I think I paid $23


Autoplicity.com. Pilot Automotive PM2109S SHIFT KNOB W/SWITCH SLR - PM2109S

Just a heads up on that valve. I could not use 90* -8 fittings, they hit each other when trying to put them next to each other. I ended up useing one -8 SAE to JIC 90* and one -8 SAE to JIC 45* fitting and used a 90* hose end on that hose. You can see them in the second and third pic.

Maybe you will have more room??

I dont ever use the right side to get on and off tractor, so mounting the way I did wasnt a problem for me. It actually made the loader valve more comfortable to use, no more reaching. I would have like to put it where you are planning, it would be tucked out of the way nicely.

Brian

 

[bindian]

The switch looks good, nice job.

I did find the switch I used, I bought mine on amazon though.... I have never delt with this company. about the same price, I think I paid $23


Autoplicity.com. Pilot Automotive PM2109S SHIFT KNOB W/SWITCH SLR - PM2109S

Just a heads up on that valve. I could not use 90* -8 fittings, they hit each other when trying to put them next to each other. I ended up useing one -8 SAE to JIC 90* and one -8 SAE to JIC 45* fitting and used a 90* hose end on that hose. You can see them in the second and third pic.

Maybe you will have more room??

I dont ever use the right side to get on and off tractor, so mounting the way I did wasnt a problem for me. It actually made the loader valve more comfortable to use, no more reaching. I would have like to put it where you are planning, it would be tucked out of the way nicely.

Brian

Brian,
Thanks.
Yep, that is the discontinued switch by Pilot Automotive. Next best thing online is a Hurst button switch sidewinder round knob for $57 with 7/16-20 threads for me. I'll use this one for a while to see if my hand fits with the button on top.
hugs, Brandi

I think I will have room

 

[Artisan]

I ran into this thread last night late, woke up to it on my monitor this morning...I am glad it is still here. . .

Brandi that valve you bought from Surplus, that is how I found this thread in a search,
I thought Surplus had discontinued that valve. Well, I know they discontinued one
VERY similar, maybe the flow rate was a tad less, now here it is again. Anyways I have a grapple
project I am wanting to power and that valve is a candidate. I would love to
see your mounting of it when it is finished.

In my travels looking for a valve because Surplus had discontinued it,
I landed on the Fasse site. They have an ergonimic handle w/ push button
that is beautiful, I only wish I had found this thread sooner for you.
It really looks nice and I bet it is a pleasure to hold on to and control.
They have a couple of other options as well, a push button that attaches
to the shaft, and a joystick I thunk.

This valve is available in a 30gpm as well.

A PHD hung from the front would be a dream to use. Others have suggested possible issues
bending the FEL arms and rightfully so. Boy if you decide to pull up while turning and if that
bit decides to grab a stuck rock at the same time you could generate enough force to bend
your tractor, IMO. I might suggest you do something to counterweight the FEL on the other side.
How about perhaps you calculate what the Auger and bit weigh, then simply add that much
weight to the extreme other end of the FEL bucket?
I really think it will help a lot. Your call.

I have been building a grapple for my BX25 and I welded a piece of angle to
my bucket and attached the grapples mount. I have not mounted the grapple yet
because I have been utilizing that grapple mount for other things I have dreamed up!

I learned from this thread that I could use the center cylinder mount for the grapple,
to make a holder for a PHD, on center of the bucket! Your side attach has a lot of merit,
as well, if one imagines all the moves running along a fence line it could be a real timesaver.

 

[bindian]

I ran into this thread last night late, woke up to it on my monitor this morning...I am glad it is still here. . .

Brandi that valve you bought from Surplus, that is how I found this thread in a search,
I thought Surplus had discontinued that valve. Well, I know they discontinued one
VERY similar, maybe the flow rate was a tad less, now here it is again. Anyways I have a grapple
project I am wanting to power and that valve is a candidate. I would love to
see your mounting of it when it is finished.

In my travels looking for a valve because Surplus had discontinued it,
I landed on the Fasse site. They have an ergonimic handle w/ push button
that is beautiful, I only wish I had found this thread sooner for you.
It really looks nice and I bet it is a pleasure to hold on to and control.
They have a couple of other options as well, a push button that attaches
to the shaft, and a joystick I thunk.

This valve is available in a 30gpm as well.

A PHD hung from the front would be a dream to use. Others have suggested possible issues
bending the FEL arms and rightfully so. Boy if you decide to pull up while turning and if that
bit decides to grab a stuck rock at the same time you could generate enough force to bend
your tractor, IMO. I might suggest you do something to counterweight the FEL on the other side.
How about perhaps you calculate what the Auger and bit weigh, then simply add that much
weight to the extreme other end of the FEL bucket?
I really think it will help a lot. Your call.

I have been building a grapple for my BX25 and I welded a piece of angle to
my bucket and attached the grapples mount. I have not mounted the grapple yet
because I have been utilizing that grapple mount for other things I have dreamed up!

I learned from this thread that I could use the center cylinder mount for the grapple,
to make a holder for a PHD, on center of the bucket! Your side attach has a lot of merit,
as well, if one imagines all the moves running along a fence line it could be a real timesaver.

Artisan,
As soon as I find the right fittings, I will install the valve. It is the fittings that will dictate how and where the valve is mounted.
My tractor weighs 11,300 pounds. It doesn't need any counter weight. There is no way that auger can bend the loader arms. There are no rocks around here, except for the ones I hauled here.
The bucket end installation for hydraulic augers have been well engineered by Danuser. They offer a bucket end mount for sale. If you really want a center mount, buy a skid steer adapter plate and mount it on there. You can bend that upper lip up......I know that as a fact. Center mounting an auger is great for a skid steer, but you can not see it on a tractor. Thus the bucket end mounting position.
You have a BX? I think it will fit in my 7 foot bucket.

 

[ak9]

bindian
When i was searching for The "right" Hyd. fittings for a compact set up for my do3 dual sol.valves Discount Hyd hose was a great sorce as they had a selection of fittings that really help me.Especially the long sae#8x 90*x jic and a short one that really helped in making a very compact set up.
ak9

 

[Artisan]

bindian
When i was searching for The "right" Hyd. fittings for a compact set up for my do3 dual sol.valves Discount Hyd hose was a great sorce as they had a selection of fittings that really help me.Especially the long sae#8x 90*x jic and a short one that really helped in making a very compact set up.
ak9

Viola

 

[bindian]

bindian
When i was searching for The "right" Hyd. fittings for a compact set up for my do3 dual sol.valves Discount Hyd hose was a great sorce as they had a selection of fittings that really help me.Especially the long sae#8x 90*x jic and a short one that really helped in making a very compact set up.
ak9

Thanks AK9. These guys..... SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90° Elbow have more of a selection and are cheaper than Surplus Center. Since I am going to buy my bulk lines and reuseable fittings from them, I will get my valve fittings from them also.
I already decided to go long and short 90s. The long one may rub the engine side cowling, but I have the tools to relieve any rubbing and make an opening and cover the opening from the inside if needed.
hugs, Brnadi

 

[bindian]

bindian
When i was searching for The "right" Hyd. fittings for a compact set up for my do3 dual sol.valves Discount Hyd hose was a great sorce as they had a selection of fittings that really help me.Especially the long sae#8x 90*x jic and a short one that really helped in making a very compact set up.
ak9

Thanks AK9. These guys..... SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90° Elbow have more of a selection and are cheaper than Surplus Center. Since I am going to buy my bulk lines and reuseable fittings from them, I will get my valve fittings from them also.
I already decided to go long and short 90s. The long one may rub the engine side cowling, but I have the tools to relieve any rubbing and make an opening and cover the opening from the inside if needed.
hugs, Brandi

 

[ak9]

bindian
Here are a few pics of my Hyd valve set up i made . I chose this location because it is was as close to the loader valve as I could get it and was easy to pass the Hyd lines to the front. I really liked the way the long and short 90* fittings nested in tight to the tractor and The PB & tank lines were easy to run in this location.
ak9

 

[bindian]

bindian
Here are a few pics of my Hyd valve set up i made . I chose this location because it is was as close to the loader valve as I could get it and was easy to pass the Hyd lines to the front. I really liked the way the long and short 90* fittings nested in tight to the tractor and The PB & tank lines were easy to run in this location.
ak9

Thanks for the input and photos. I have plenty of room forward of my loader valve on the mast. So that is where I bolted the valve. I have plenty of clearance, even hood clearance. The knob switch is all finished and the wiring harness ready to install. I extended the threads on the shaft for a jam nut.

Just ordered fifty something dollars of SAE fittings for the valve installation. I ordered extra of different fittings to make sure I have what I want when I move lines.

Oh yeah, the white thing on the valve is a rubber glove I used to keep metal shavings out while marking holes. The blue fittings are aluminum AN fittings and caps, which are the Army Navy version of JIC. Those are there just to keep metal shavings out also.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Last Thursday, I won the bid on a Richie Brothers Auction grapple. It was the only bid won under $1000 for a grapple. I wondered why until I saw that I won a bid on a grapple that I thought I deleted from my watchlist. It is a lite weight grapple and the Big RED Beast just might turn it into a pretzel. I'll let Y'all know after I get it working if I want to sale it our keep it.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Artisan]

Artisan,


snip

You have a BX? I think it will fit in my 7 foot bucket.

Oh that's Cold! :laughing: hehe. What's that old addage, something about it's not how big it is but how.... I will leave that there...

I am sure someday I won't be able to live w/o a "beast" as well, of which I must admit, I didn't realize your tractor was so big initially as well, for now were good with a lil tiny run all day on just a few gallons of fuel, fit thru a 49" opening BX25 . Thank you for this thread and posting up pics. It helped me make up my mind as to what I am going to do. After a lot of rig-a-ma-rolling around and him-hawing I decided to go w/ a Fasse valve, a valve that I believe is not known to the general public to well yet, at least I didn't see it in Fasse's webazine. When I have it in hand I will post pics of it in my GrappleOmatic thread.

So as not to hijack your quality thread I invite you over to see my lil project HERE. I will be watching this cool build up! Your doing a great job. Sometimes the best man for a job is a woman, my wife is the best helper I have ever had and I kid you not. I have tought many a man the difference between 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1.25, 1.5 and 2" Gal, Black, Copper, PVC etc et al and few remembered it, she does and remeber where things go? men want to just pile it all, she puts stuff back in it's place.

Hopefully you will make a UTube of it working when done and keep the pics coming !