Hydraulic Auger Mount

[Zebrafive]

Zebrafive,
Negative. The exit hole at the cross tube is just big enough for the original 4 hoses.
hugs, Brandi

Too bad that would have made a clean install. I'd consider enlarging the hole at the torque tube.

 

[bindian]

Too bad that would have made a clean install. I'd consider enlarging the hole at the torque tube.

..............and people wonder why loader arms crack. Maybe on your tractor. These lines have an outside diameter of 3/4 inch, without the fittings. At the angle they exit, you would have to cut out close to 2 inches.:thumbdown: My loader is rated at 3900 pounds and I want to keep that rating. I'm not even crazy about the idea of welding hose clamp brackets on.:mur: I never have liked welding on metal that comes under regular, designed stress.
Brandi

 

[boggen]

Boggen,
Thanks for the replies. Back towards the first of this thread I stated I can see the auger and bit easily from the seat and posted at least one photo of it from the seat. Can't see ty wrapping a rod to a round motor unit. Also, it is forward and aft that is hard to figure if it is square. The problem comes from being further away and a lower angle to the bit. On the backhoe I sit high and can move the boom and dipper stick forward or backward to adjust the angle to stay square. On the loader bucket, I have to move the tractor forward or backward as the auger starts and goes down and back up to keep the hole at 90 degrees.
Good forks have a large headache rack on them, which would be harder to see than off the end of a 7 foot wide bucket.
hugs, Brandi

you have the skills to weld and drill and tap holes. weld on a little plate to side of the auger motor. drill and tap a hole in the plate and use threaded rod. again it is only a thought.

*rubs chin* i had to re-read your post a couple times. lower fel arms, to lower PHD, but is there a problem not being able to adjust the bucket curl to offset PHD as it goes down to keep PHD level? or is PHD to far back on bucket, to point of curling bucket does not offset things enough?

or should the PHD the mount on the bucket, be turned 90 degrees so when you curl the bucket up or down, it gives you enough change to to keep PHD level?

backhoe = dipper stick, boom stick, and bucket
backhoe = dipper stick, boom stick, and hyd auger
FEL = arms, bucket
FEL = arms, bucket, hyd auger.

re stating things... fel arms = dipper stick, front bucket = boom stick, and then a mount for hyd auger.

 

[bindian]

you have the skills to weld and drill and tap holes. weld on a little plate to side of the auger motor. drill and tap a hole in the plate and use threaded rod. again it is only a thought.

*rubs chin* i had to re-read your post a couple times. lower fel arms, to lower PHD, but is there a problem not being able to adjust the bucket curl to offset PHD as it goes down to keep PHD level? or is PHD to far back on bucket, to point of curling bucket does not offset things enough?

or should the PHD the mount on the bucket, be turned 90 degrees so when you curl the bucket up or down, it gives you enough change to to keep PHD level?

backhoe = dipper stick, boom stick, and bucket
backhoe = dipper stick, boom stick, and hyd auger
FEL = arms, bucket
FEL = arms, bucket, hyd auger.

re stating things... fel arms = dipper stick, front bucket = boom stick, and then a mount for hyd auger.

Boggen,
I am not going to weld on the auger gearbox or motor. Ain't going to happen. It is not a swivel travel thing. The auger has plenty of swivel. The problem arises when you auger down into the ground.....As you lower the loader arm..............the auger bit to ground geometry changes,......... which to keep at 90 degrees, you have to roll the tractor forward or backward. With the auger bit, extension, and height of the auger gearbox and mount, you are over 6 feet in length (height), a degree or two off really shows up 4 feet down in the ground.

On a backhoe, as you lower the boom, you compensate for the geometry changes with the dipperstick. A front end loader can not do this, thus having to move the tractor a couple of inches either way.
So the really simple way around all this is to either have another person spotting that you dig down into a hole at 90 degrees, or you use a bigger diameter auger bit to compensate for the hole being not truly 90 degrees.
As to which is a better mounting location, backhoe or loader, is not going decided by me. Each has it's advantages. Neither is the best. I designed the loader auger mount so I don't have to remove the backhoe bucket and thumb to poke one or two holes. Loader bucket mounting is just 4 bolts and a pivot pin. The backhoe location shines in a corner or between two close objects. Only way to beat these locations is a skid steer with vertical loader rise. But they are all way more fun than a PTO driven auger on a 3PH.
hugs, Brandi

 

[jenkinsph]

When I am setting posts I have the auger on the hoe and pallet forks on the front. This way I can drill the holes and carry a bundle of posts at the same time. On the next pass I use an electric wheelbarrow mixer, the garden tractor with cart carrying 6 buckets of water and a Honda 2000 genset, the 110 carries a pallet of sack concrete high enough that an old geezer doesn't have to lift it off the ground. When setting wooden posts I use a demolition hammer with a curved flat shoe on it to fit in the holes and tamp. Makes quick work of fencing and greatly reduces the amount of labor needed.

 

[Artisan]

snip

When setting wooden posts I use a demolition hammer with a curved flat shoe on it to fit in the holes and tamp.

Cunfusamabobulated...you tamp "dirt" yes? Got a pic of that weapon?

 

[jenkinsph]

Cunfusamabobulated...you tamp "dirt" yes? Got a pic of that weapon?

Not on file but I will take one for you. Yes for wooden posts I backfill the dirt. I usually will install corner posts and terminal posts using the hammer to tamp in. Setting regular line posts I use an old rake or hoe handle to pack these.

 

[Zebrafive]

..............and people wonder why loader arms crack. Maybe on your tractor. These lines have an outside diameter of 3/4 inch, without the fittings. At the angle they exit, you would have to cut out close to 2 inches.:thumbdown: My loader is rated at 3900 pounds and I want to keep that rating. I'm not even crazy about the idea of welding hose clamp brackets on.:mur: I never have liked welding on metal that comes under regular, designed stress.
Brandi

My loader has external lines, So I just changed to six line clamps from four when I added the third function steel lines.

I did not expect a 2" cutout would be required, which I would not do either.. I thought the factory hole would be big enough.

 

[bindian]

My loader has external lines, So I just changed to six line clamps from four when I added the third function steel lines.

I did not expect a 2" cutout would be required, which I would not do either.. I thought the factory hole would be big enough.

Zebrafive,
Oh believe me I wanted to shove those hoses inside. But the hole is so tight, I dread having one of those hoses needing replacement. With welded clamp brackets added, one could install hard lines.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I augered the hole for this mailbox with the auger motor mounted on my front bucket a few weeks ago. I augered the post hole in the second photo with the auger mounted on my backhoe, yesterday. I used a 9 inch bit on the mailbox and a 12 inch bit for the cedar post. The backhoe position is so much easier in operation and the 12 inch bit worked better and faster there. The 9 inch bit on the front end loader did not work good and was really slow. I have 3/8 inch lines to the backhoe and on the loader up to the curl circuit lines. So my rear remotes and backhoe get more flow and/or pressure that the loader curl circuit. Now that I tried both in the same soil, I will use the auger in the future on the backhoe.

Oh yeah, the third photo show how I secured the auger to do some loader work grading the driveway.
hugs, Brandi

 

[charles todd]

Thanks for the input and photos. I have plenty of room forward of my loader valve on the mast. So that is where I bolted the valve. I have plenty of clearance, even hood clearance. The knob switch is all finished and the wiring harness ready to install. I extended the threads on the shaft for a jam nut.

Just ordered fifty something dollars of SAE fittings for the valve installation. I ordered extra of different fittings to make sure I have what I want when I move lines.

Oh yeah, the white thing on the valve is a rubber glove I used to keep metal shavings out while marking holes. The blue fittings are aluminum AN fittings and caps, which are the Army Navy version of JIC. Those are there just to keep metal shavings out also.
hugs, Brandi

Brandi,

I have had the same grapple for about 4 years. I believe that mine is 72". I have put all the stress a Farmall 504 can muster and then some on it an it has not failed me yet. The lighter weight is a blessing too, less mass to pick up leading to more debris you can lift! Heaviest think I have lifted (actually curled, could not lift!) with it was a 2600+ lb, 14" square, 13"+ long concrete bridge piling. No problem. You got a good price. I paid about $1400 at a local auction for mine. After seeing what all it can do, I'd paid 2k!!!

CT

 

[bindian]

Brandi,

I have had the same grapple for about 4 years. I believe that mine is 72". I have put all the stress a Farmall 504 can muster and then some on it an it has not failed me yet. The lighter weight is a blessing too, less mass to pick up leading to more debris you can lift! Heaviest think I have lifted (actually curled, could not lift!) with it was a 2600+ lb, 14" square, 13"+ long concrete bridge piling. No problem. You got a good price. I paid about $1400 at a local auction for mine. After seeing what all it can do, I'd paid 2k!!!

CT

CT,
I consider my grapple lite weight for my tractor. I have enough power and weight to turn it into a pretzel if I am not careful.
hugs, Brandi

 

[charles todd]

Brandi,

You will be fine. My father has had his a little longer than me. He uses his on a Ford 6600 and MFWD JD 6430. See link TractorData.com John Deere 6430 tractor information He has not "Turned it into a pretzel yet! Though on the Ford 6600, he was doing something with a dead tree (trying to push it over like a bulldozer) and folded up the aftermarket skidsteer quick attach. The MFG honored their "Life Time Warranty" and shipped him a new one. That is awesome service.

He did fold that up like a pretzel! This adapter has a 3000 lb rating. The grapple is still going. Good luck with it!


CT

 

[bindian]

Brandi,

You will be fine. My father has had his a little longer than me. He uses his on a Ford 6600 and MFWD JD 6430. See link TractorData.com John Deere 6430 tractor information He has not "Turned it into a pretzel yet! Though on the Ford 6600, he was doing something with a dead tree (trying to push it over like a bulldozer) and folded up the aftermarket skidsteer quick attach. The MFG honored their "Life Time Warranty" and shipped him a new one. That is awesome service.

He did fold that up like a pretzel! This adapter has a 3000 lb rating. The grapple is still going. Good luck with it!
View attachment 356540

CT

CT,
My loader is rated to 3900 pounds. I would twist that adapter too. Problems arise when you have the tines in the ground and turn too far. We just gotta be careful.
hugs, Brandi

 

[sallyb]

I note the 2012 date ,but am in hope that you can email or post 380 degrees of pictures connecting surplus center valve for your power beyond.
I sold my 2014 Kioti 35ds 4wd diesel w/loader and bought Branson 2910i 4wd diesel w/loader,shedder,blade. I took a big risk as tractor
was non running had been sitting since 2010,had been run hard.My brother got tractor running, I replaced both front tires,any way ,I
bought The Thumb for the bucket and 12vdc 13.2 gpm sae 8 double selector valve, now I need to install this to operate 3rd function.
Yours is exactly like mine and exactly the way I need to install.
Thanks

 

[bindian]

I note the 2012 date ,but am in hope that you can email or post 380 degrees of pictures connecting surplus center valve for your power beyond.
I sold my 2014 Kioti 35ds 4wd diesel w/loader and bought Branson 2910i 4wd diesel w/loader,shedder,blade. I took a big risk as tractor
was non running had been sitting since 2010,had been run hard.My brother got tractor running, I replaced both front tires,any way ,I
bought The Thumb for the bucket and 12vdc 13.2 gpm sae 8 double selector valve, now I need to install this to operate 3rd function.
Yours is exactly like mine and exactly the way I need to install.
Thanks

Sallyb,
Since I didn't have anything to do but take a bath and go to bed, I decided to snap some more photos of my valve installation. Here ya go......

Why did you sell the Kioti and buy a Branson?
hugs, Brandi

 

[sallyb]

It was a financial thing, I should have thought of my age ( 63) before I bought a new tractor w/loader, between the two the Kioti DS3510
with loader is the better tractor in my opinion,it was more user friendly, I also own a 18 horse Mitsubishi Satoh Beaver III S373D, it is the
work horse for my gardening,being a subcompact, my equipment won't hatch to the Branson. I was pretty sure the Branson would be a good deal ,one I could afford ,now I hope I can add 3rd function . Now I need to ask where did you start from tractor?
Thanks Brandi

 

[bindian]

Now I need to ask where did you start from tractor?
Thanks Brandi

Sallyb,
Can you ask this question a different way? I don't understand what you are asking.
hugs, Brandi

 

[sallyb]

Sorry slow to reply, went to change hydraulic oil , engine oil and all filters on tractor. Do I need to install The Thumb first then add
hydraulic hoses, and electrical? I need to know where each hydraulic hose goes to valve. I will post pictures. Where is power beyond
on tractor? Thank you for posting pictures they are invaluable. I will post pictures . I am having hydraulic issues, oil I drained was milky
this means I have water in system doesn't it? Bucket working good, but rear lift arms wouldn't lift with shredder on, so I need to know what is wrong, hoping changing hydraulic solves the issue. Thank You

 

[bindian]

Sorry slow to reply, went to change hydraulic oil , engine oil and all filters on tractor. Do I need to install The Thumb first then add
hydraulic hoses, and electrical? I need to know where each hydraulic hose goes to valve. I will post pictures. Where is power beyond
on tractor? Thank you for posting pictures they are invaluable. I will post pictures . I am having hydraulic issues, oil I drained was milky
this means I have water in system doesn't it? Bucket working good, but rear lift arms wouldn't lift with shredder on, so I need to know what is wrong, hoping changing hydraulic solves the issue. Thank You

Milky fluid means water. My tractor has a suction strainer screen down inside the transmission/read axle area and it can collespe. That might be your problem with no 3PH lift. Hyd. fluid level could have been low also.

I first mounted the valve. Then I ran electrical. Then mfg. QD mount and installed it on the hose cover on the crosstube. Then I hooked up the lines and figured out fitting styles and locations. You can hang the grapple to see where the grapple lines reach and are out of the way to figure out where the QDs are to be installed.

I did not use power beyond. I ran the dump/curl hoses from the (joystick) loader valve to the diverter valve. Then ran the dump/curl lines from the diverter valve to the dump/curl cylinders. The grapple open/close lines were ran from the diverter valve to the QDs I installed on the loader's crosstube line cover.
hugs, Brandi