Is This Indicative of the 3032E/3038E's Capabilities?

[Wolfman]

Although I really need a larger tractor, I keep coming back to the 3032E due to price and small size (we have some tight areas between pens that a larger tractor may have some issues getting around). Due to the low weight of the 3032E, I would probably be able to take it more often to my other property, since any of our vehicles would be able to tow it.

My past personal experience with tractors tells me that 2,000 lbs is just too light for a tractor to accomplish ground engagement tasks efficiently. My last tractor (quite a few years ago now) was a Massey 1445, which weighed in somewhere around 3800 lbs (before loading tires, FEL, Ballast). That MFWD tractor had R4s, and at times I was surprised how easy it was for it to break traction in low gear.

I'm not sure what the capabilities of something like the 3032E might be for using implements like single bottom plows, subsoilers, box blades, etc. So to find out more, I was cruising Youtube, trying to see the 3032E in operation, and came across this video:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0Y-usYChpo]Mikie on the tractor - YouTube[/ame]

After watching the video, unpleasant memories came pouring back of working with an old IH 284 2WD gas tractor, that was just way too light and somewhat underpowered to be really useful.

I'm going to guess that since this was a rental 3038E, that the R4s were not loaded. Also I realize that the operator probably did not have much experience utilizing the tractor.

How much of a difference would there be if the tires on the 3038E were loaded R1s instead of R4s? Anyone here have a 3032E or 3038E and use a plow or middle buster?

I'm really leaning towards a 5045D, but I keep having thoughts of going small and light for other reasons. Ideally, I would be able to afford 3 machines - and I would have all cases covered - but that is not happening.

Any thoughts or experiences would be appreciated!

 

[dmrp6510]

Two things in that video the box looked like it was tilted two far forward and if he would had put some dirt in the bucket and lowered it a bit it should have been fine

 

[jenkinsph]

Looked to me like he was trying to rip the area up with the scarifiers. I wouldn't drive a tractor around as he did with the bucket raised, seems that would indicate lack of experience to me.

About the 3032E and 3038E, these are both light tractors and work better with tillers than with implements requiring a high tractive effort.

I looked at the 5ooo series tractors and 4000 series and had the same concerns about weight as you did. Finally decided on the 4520 cab with 1100 lbs of iron ballast so it weighs about 5500 lbs. so far this has worked out well for everything I do. Being short and compact allows me to get into some tight places.

 

[Verticaltrx]

First off, R1 tires make a huge difference. In my experience the pulling force is nearly double with R1's vs R4's (I have a set of both for my Kubota.) Second, looks like he doesn't really know what he is doing. Third, my little B3200 Kubota can fill a 5' box blade to the brim, even with the rippers down, and it only weighs 1800lbs bare (about 2700 with loader and filled tires.)

If you want a small tractor for small tractor jobs the weight shouldn't be an issue. Proper tires and good ballast will make it do any work it was ever intended for.

 

[Wolfman]

First off, R1 tires make a huge difference. In my experience the pulling force is nearly double with R1's vs R4's (I have a set of both for my Kubota.) Second, looks like he doesn't really know what he is doing. Third, my little B3200 Kubota can fill a 5' box blade to the brim, even with the rippers down, and it only weighs 1800lbs bare (about 2700 with loader and filled tires.)

If you want a small tractor for small tractor jobs the weight shouldn't be an issue. Proper tires and good ballast will make it do any work it was ever intended for.

Thank you for the info - it is really useful coming from someone who owns both R4s and R1s for the same machine!! I had expected there would be a difference - but didn't realize it would be that drastic.

I was also reading through threads here last night, and a couple of years ago someone posted about the differences in torque between the 3032E and 3038E. He had mentioned that the 3038E has so much torque that it might have issues with wheel spin even in low gear. It appears that he might have been correct?

 

[JiminGa]

that guy is doing every thing he can to tear up a tractor. don't turn with a box blade or any other ground engaging implement in the ground, straight lines only. putting that kind of stress on the three point hitch will eventually cause you to cuss the tractor and your luck.

 

[LD1]

I was also reading through threads here last night, and a couple of years ago someone posted about the differences in torque between the 3032E and 3038E. He had mentioned that the 3038E has so much torque that it might have issues with wheel spin even in low gear. It appears that he might have been correct?

Yep, R1's make a huge difference, as well as weight in the right locations. (ballast).

With that elevated FEL and the BB down, and no ballast in the tires, he didnt have much weight over the rears, which is where ~75% of the pulling ability comes from due to their much larger size.

And as far as the 3038 and 3032 torque issue, you will find that the 3038 probabally wont pull any more or any less than the 3032. You will be able to spin out just as easially in the 3032 in low range. Heck, I have a ~600lb heavier tractor, with loaded r1's, and better technique and I have enough power to spin out in even 3rd gear.

Are you limited to just deere? Becasue there are other machines out there that are better (IMO) for similar money. Deere's are quite pricey for what you get, because green paint is a lot more expensive than other colors if ya know what I mean. Nothing against deere. But you are paying a lot for the name.

 

[s219]

Doesn't look like Mikie is real experienced. He may have been angling the box to engage rippers, but I think he really should have leveled the box and lowered the rippers. That said, we don't know much about the soil and what might have been hanging him up.

I had no problems cutting down through 12" of topsoil and removing it to get down to hardpan recently, using a 48" Howse box blade on a smallish Kubota B2920. In fact, I was impressed how easily it got the job done. It even loosened up the clay once I got down to that level.

 

[JiminGa]

Yep, R1's make a huge difference, as well as weight in the right locations. (ballast).

With that elevated FEL and the BB down, and no ballast in the tires, he didnt have much weight over the rears, which is where ~75% of the pulling ability comes from due to their much larger size.

And as far as the 3038 and 3032 torque issue, you will find that the 3038 probabally wont pull any more or any less than the 3032. You will be able to spin out just as easially in the 3032 in low range. Heck, I have a ~600lb heavier tractor, with loaded r1's, and better technique and I have enough power to spin out in even 3rd gear.

Are you limited to just deere? Becasue there are other machines out there that are better (IMO) for similar money. Deere's are quite pricey for what you get, because green paint is a lot more expensive than other colors if ya know what I mean. Nothing against deere. But you are paying a lot for the name.

Your opinion is confusing. There is another thread here that shows someone paying less than $19k for a 1026r TLB. last time I checked Kubota's BX25 was no where near the machine for not much price difference. And I can back my opinion up because I just traded a BX25 for a 1026R. Hands down not even in the same league. The Kubota is a much weaker, lighter machine, both in pulling power and hydraulics. Go back to the Kubota forums and wine

 

[msmud]

Wolfman,
I was the guy who wondered about the ability of the E series to keep the wheels from spinning, particularly with the 3038e. I bought the 3038e after doing some experiments with my mom's cab 3320 tractor as far as inflation pressures of her R1s. That tractor is reasonably heavy with the cab--more than 70 percent heavier than either E series machine--yet I could easily get it to spin the rear tires with too much air pressure (>13 psi), and could just as easily make the need for 4wd a rarity by running her rear tires at around 9 - 9.5 psi.

With this information, as well as info from the AG tire manufacturers handbook calling for low tire pressures rather than liquid fill, I bought the 3038e and have run the rear R4s at 8 - 8.5 psi with very few traction issues bushhogging on steep slopes. If you are going to run you tractor for ground engaging work, I would order an E series with R1s and keep those rear tire pressures reasonably low for good traction.
Tim

 

[LD1]

Go back to the Kubota forums and wine

Thats pretty immature and does absolutly no good to help the OP out.

Actually, your other post in this thread also does nothing to help him out.

Your opinion is confusing. There is another thread here that shows someone paying less than $19k for a 1026r TLB. last time I checked Kubota's BX25 was no where near the machine for not much price difference.

I dont see what is confusing. I stated MY OPINION. you talking about a BX25 vs 1026 is meaningless since the OP is talking about a 3038.:confused2:

And I can back my opinion up because I just traded a BX25 for a 1026R. Hands down not even in the same league. The Kubota is a much weaker, lighter machine, both in pulling power and hydraulics.

Good for you:thumbsup: But again, he isnt looking for a SCUT. He is looking for a CUT. so your ONE comparison is of no use. And the FACTS speak for themselves. IF you arent brand blind, for similar money, machines that spec better and have more features are out there.

Anyone tractor shopping with blinders on and only looking at one brand is only hurting themselves.

And your BX25 vs 1026 analysis is what is confusing
You say the kubota is weaker and lighter.....actually, the BX is about 100lbs heavier. I'll give you the hydraulics though, the deere can lift a whopping 14lbs more on the 3ph and 80lbs more on the FEL. Cant seem to find specs on the deere backhoe?? And given that the kubota is 100lbs heavier, if equipped with the same tires, I dont see how it is possible for the deere to out pull the bx.

But again, none of this immature BS really matters. What matters is that the OP gets a tractor he can be happy with. If that turns out to be a deere 3038, so be it. There are pleanty of satisfied 3038 owners out there. It is just my OPINION that more can be had for the money.

 

[LD1]

Wolfman,
I was the guy who wondered about the ability of the E series to keep the wheels from spinning, particularly with the 3038e. I bought the 3038e after doing some experiments with my mom's cab 3320 tractor as far as inflation pressures of her R1s. That tractor is reasonably heavy with the cab--more than 70 percent heavier than either E series machine--yet I could easily get it to spin the rear tires with too much air pressure (>13 psi), and could just as easily make the need for 4wd a rarity by running her rear tires at around 9 - 9.5 psi.

With this information, as well as info from the AG tire manufacturers handbook calling for low tire pressures rather than liquid fill, I bought the 3038e and have run the rear R4s at 8 - 8.5 psi with very few traction issues bushhogging on steep slopes. If you are going to run you tractor for ground engaging work, I would order an E series with R1s and keep those rear tire pressures reasonably low for good traction.
Tim

Excellent point on the air pressure. If you arent doing a lot of hard'n'heavy towing/pulling, lower air pressures help a ton. Not sure what the OP's intentions are, but if a lot of ground engaging tasks or pulling logs are in order, there is no replacement for weight. Either in the form of a heavy machine or ballast. Power is rarly a factor because of the gearing of the machines. We have an older (very low power to weight ratio) backhoe. It is only 2x's the power of the 3038, but about 5x's the weight, yet it is still geared low enough to spin tires without hurting for power. The power only lets you spin them in a higher gear/faster.

If I were looking for a machine to "tread lightly" across soft terrain. A light machine with low air-pressures would be a prime choice. If heavy ground work is a requirement....WEIGHT.

 

[JiminGa]

Thats pretty immature and does absolutly no good to help the OP out.

Actually, your other post in this thread also does nothing to help him out.



I dont see what is confusing. I stated MY OPINION. you talking about a BX25 vs 1026 is meaningless since the OP is talking about a 3038.:confused2:



Good for you:thumbsup: But again, he isnt looking for a SCUT. He is looking for a CUT. so your ONE comparison is of no use. And the FACTS speak for themselves. IF you arent brand blind, for similar money, machines that spec better and have more features are out there.

Anyone tractor shopping with blinders on and only looking at one brand is only hurting themselves.

And your BX25 vs 1026 analysis is what is confusing
You say the kubota is weaker and lighter.....actually, the BX is about 100lbs heavier. I'll give you the hydraulics though, the deere can lift a whopping 14lbs more on the 3ph and 80lbs more on the FEL. Cant seem to find specs on the deere backhoe?? And given that the kubota is 100lbs heavier, if equipped with the same tires, I dont see how it is possible for the deere to out pull the bx.

But again, none of this immature BS really matters. What matters is that the OP gets a tractor he can be happy with. If that turns out to be a deere 3038, so be it. There are pleanty of satisfied 3038 owners out there. It is just my OPINION that more can be had for the money.

you sir like to nit pick, so I'll nit pick too...the reason I responded to you in the first place:
"Becasue there are other machines out there that are better (IMO) for similar money. Deere's are quite pricey for what you get, because green paint is a lot more expensive than other colors if ya know what I mean."

coming in to the JD forums and posting stuff like this you know good and well you're going to stir the pudding, so I say again, you should just stick to the Kubota forums since you obviously like Orange better than Green.
My post was simply to show you that you are incorrect, Green paint is not necessarily more expensive, but premium features for a similar price makes me wonder if maybe that Orange paint isn't awfully expensive.

 

[LD1]

Wow, I assume you must only hang around the JD forum. Mostly because of how you are acting now, and because I dont think we have ever crossed paths before on this forum.

I dont pay no nevermind to what forum I am posting in. I browse "todays posts" or "since my last visit". In fact, I wouldnt care if there were no "individual" forums at all.

Now lets break it down:

you sir like to nit pick, so I'll nit pick too...the reason I responded to you in the first place:
"Becasue there are other machines out there that are better (IMO) for similar money.

Perhaps you dont know what IMO means?

coming in to the JD forums and posting stuff like this you know good and well you're going to stir the pudding,

Not trying to stir the pudding. Just trying to inform the OP. Letting him know that he has "quality" choices not limited to deere.

so I say again, you should just stick to the Kubota forums since you obviously like Orange better than Green.

I actually like all tractors. That is why I dont limit myself with blinders. And I give credit where credit is due. There are several times when newbies ask "kubota vs other brand" questions. And there are several times my first recomendation isnt 'bota. And I think I have been around here long enough to frequent whatever fourm I darn well please.

My post was simply to show you that you are incorrect, Green paint is not necessarily more expensive, but premium features for a similar price makes me wonder if maybe that Orange paint isn't awfully expensive.

I am not incorrect. You pointed out ONE case where a deere may have costed less. But it is irrelevent to this post. And then you had to get the little dig in on the kubota saying "its not even in the same league, weaker, lighter, etc" when the specs say otherwise. But thats not the point.

The point is: It is no secret that deere is typically higher priced across the board. Sure, there are a few instances where they arent. But I believe 90% of members here will AGREE that deeres typically cost more than the competition. AND AS I SAID BEFORE, nothing against deere. Deere has earned a good reputation and their right to command that premium price. And if your blinders are preventing you from understanding that, I am truly sorry. And it is also no secret amung you deere fans that the 3038 isnt really the "cream of the deere" crop either. Aluminum housing, no backhoe option, non-removable loader, etc.

And BTW, I never once said anything about kubota being better. I left it open. I said there are "other brands" that may offer a better machine for similer money. IE: better value. IMO (that means it is JUST MY OPINION) you can agree to have a different opinion if you want.

 

[Martian]

I skipped over some of the nonsense, but (look at my sig) I do like JD, BUT I'm unbiased enough to know that the L3200's and L3800's are quite nice machines and spec out quite a bit better than the 3038/3032e's of JD. My only gripe if I was getting the Bota' would be the jerky 3ph, other than that, it is a great machine. I too would suggest the OP to look at them, but what you and most others will find is that the JD will actually be around $2000 cheaper than the Kubota and Deere is running an implement special right now, so if your looking for some attachments it will be even more than $2000. Some say the Deere paint may cost you thousands extra, but I've found it to be cheaper than the Kubota's when I've compared quite a few times, so at least in my area, it's far from the truth. Another thing I'd like to point out is if you have a good Kioti dealer, I'd check out a DK40 or DK35. You will find them to be about the same price as Kubota's L32/3800's, but are Kioti's deluxe models and will be a lot nicer overall machines and the specs are incredible and way out perform even the 32/3800's. Just another idea.

Back onto the 3032/3038E's - I'd blame that video on operator error. To have that loader way up there is just stupid and you'll lose traction. Can't tell, but assuming they weren't, if you load those tires and drive it properly, it should work just fine.

 

[LD1]

My only gripe if I was getting the Bota' would be the jerky 3ph, other than that, it is a great machine.

Agreed. The hitch is very frustrating. But in all honesty, if I had to choose between my L3400 and a 3038, I'd choose the herky-jerky 3400 anyday. Mainly because of the aluminum housings on the deere and the fact that the loader dont come off. I take mine off ALOT when mowing trails back in the woods. MUCH more manuverable.

I'd check out a DK40 or DK35. You will find them to be about the same price as Kubota's L32/3800's, but are Kioti's deluxe models and will be a lot nicer overall machines and the specs are incredible and way out perform even the 32/3800's. Just another idea.

Those are acutally what I was thinking of when I said "others". A member of our "kubota" section...koua....just traded his 3400 for a DK35. If my 3400 wasnt paid off and I had a good kioti dealer nearby, I'd probabally consider the same thing.

And as we are quickly learning, the pricing is very reagional.

6 years ago, when I was shopping, the deeres were a good bit higher. The gap has obviously closed up a bit. A few fellows I work with BOTH just bought kubotas last year. One got a B2320 and the other a B2920. They were comparing to the deere 2x20's. (we have a kubota dealer and a JD dealer right next door in MT. Vernon Oh). And BOTH went kubota because of a ~1500-2000 difference in price. But overall, I think the prices are competitive. All depends on how much a dealer will "deal". But the bigger the tractors get, I think deere gets more expensive quicker.

I really have no facts to back this up. Just what I have already said. Most of my assumptions are based on members here posting quotes and such when they are shopping. Because I have not shopped the market in over 6 years. And all I can say is that I consistantly see posts to the the tune of "is the deere worth $xxxx more than brand y" from new members. Thats all I'm saying. But no matter what, as I said, You are only hurting yourself if you only shop one brand and one dealer. You will NEVER get the best deal if you are wearing blinders.

 

[Martian]

K0UA is who I was referring to as well. We all use our tractors differently though, you take your loader off a lot, I've NEVER taken my loader off of any of my tractors. Plenty of ups and downs of different machines, so we can't really tell everyone which machine is best for them but to say go try them all and see what you like.

 

[LD1]

so we can't really tell everyone which machine is best for them but to say go try them all and see what you like.

Thats the best advice right there. And thats all I honestly try to do, regardless of color. I try not to "bash" any make. Just point out pros and cons of them, thats all. Someone who's primaty task is light landscaping, the light 3038 is probabally a great choice. But if someone wants to do a bunch of loader work and heavy pulling/lifting, it might not be. In the end, it is best to try out and get quotes on similar models from as many brands as they(shoppers) have local dealers for, and they what you like. Because in the end, THEY have to be happy with the machine. What we think is irrelavent.

And you (@2000 posts) have been around here awhile. And I hope you understand that I am not just a "kubota lover in the deere forum bashing deeres". Because that is not my intent. I ALWAYS try to advise that people research "other" makes when only asking about one. Because honestly, just because we know a lot about tractors, most dont. And like myself many moons ago, alot of people have never heard of the likes of kioti, mahindra, et al. And areas like mine, even CNH and Massey dealers are few and far between. And alot of these "new" shoppers have the misconception that a certain "brand" is better than others across the board, and are none-the-wiser.

 

[Martian]

Thats the best advice right there. And thats all I honestly try to do, regardless of color. I try not to "bash" any make. Just point out pros and cons of them, thats all. Someone who's primaty task is light landscaping, the light 3038 is probabally a great choice. But if someone wants to do a bunch of loader work and heavy pulling/lifting, it might not be. In the end, it is best to try out and get quotes on similar models from as many brands as they(shoppers) have local dealers for, and they what you like. Because in the end, THEY have to be happy with the machine. What we think is irrelavent.

And you (@2000 posts) have been around here awhile. And I hope you understand that I am not just a "kubota lover in the deere forum bashing deeres". Because that is not my intent. I ALWAYS try to advise that people research "other" makes when only asking about one. Because honestly, just because we know a lot about tractors, most dont. And like myself many moons ago, alot of people have never heard of the likes of kioti, mahindra, et al. And areas like mine, even CNH and Massey dealers are few and far between. And alot of these "new" shoppers have the misconception that a certain "brand" is better than others across the board, and are none-the-wiser.

I agree. I don't believe any people come on here just to bash a brand. They are only offering their insight. I came here looking for a new machine myself, and no one knows it all, and that's why we are all here. Spread what we know and learn what we don't.

 

[LD1]

and no one knows it all, and that's why we are all here. Spread what we know and learn what we don't.

Nice Quote:thumbsup: