Finally starting an addition on our shed

[STx]

But now your windows will be narrower.

If I added the jack studs on the already built walls, the rough in would be too small for the windows. I think I'll cut some angle iron braces and screw them into the top corners. They'll be small enough to not cause problems with the window installation and transfer the load from the header into the studs.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm torn on what I would do if I was you. When remodeling older homes, I see this fairly often. I always replace what's there with a header using jack and king studs. But that's what I'm being paid to do. It's very rare to see actual issues from it not being done this way, but I have a few times. Usually nobody has a clue that their headers are not supported by jack studs. Since it's yours, and you are doing all the work, it's your call.

Adding a stud to the outside of your existing studs would help. Removing the header, cutting the existing stud and making it a jack stud, then installing a longer header would be ideal.

We all learn by our mistakes. My list of mistakes over the years is very long!!!!

 

[downsizingnow48]

Which way does the roof framing run? If the headers with no jack studs are under a gable end, I would be somewhat tempted to let it go as the weight supported is not that much. But if rafters bear on that header and wall, I would fix it like Eddie suggests. In fact I have fixed old work that way before whether there is much of a load or not, it is the correct way to deal with the situation.

 

[STx]

All but one are on gable ends, the rafters are going on the wall next to the shed and opposite it.

The window in the stairwell will be supporting the rafters. I'm working on that wall this morning so I can do it right. The roof is going to be techshield covered in 27ga tin so, it"s not a heavy roof. I think.a couple of 2" x 3/16 angle iron brackets screwed in up top will probably be enough. I'll probably add secondary studs outside the window frames as well.

I know it's probably penny wise and pound foolish but, replacing all the headers would waste 60' of lumber. I hate to throw that away and more importantly, don't think I have enough extra on hand to do it. If I do have it already when it's all framed up, I'll probably make the corrections.

 

[geblackwell]

In a perfect world window openings might allow enough room to nail and glue a 1x4 to inside of the stud. Everything would have to be perfectly square and rough opening large enough for this.

 

[STx]

Got them on this one.

 

[STx]

In a perfect world window openings might allow enough room to nail and glue a 1x4 to inside of the stud. Everything would have to be perfectly square and rough opening large enough for this.

I can probably do this as inside jamb trim instead of drywall.

 

[EddieWalker]

Looks good. The header carries the weight of the span onto the jack studs. Everything rests on something else.

 

[STx]

Finished exterior walls. The humidity is killing me, especially with very little breeze and full sun.

The death door to below will eventually go to a deck. We put it in now so we can use the tractor to raise furniture to the second floor instead of trying to traverse it up the turn in the stairs.

 

[ustmd]

STX

Looks good and you are making great progress especially since you are working by yourself.

On you headers (I won't say anything about putting jack studs), I see you are putting a 2 x 6 above and below them, that is not required. You are not hurting anything by doing it, but it is an additional step.

 

[STx]

Thanks, I'm not all alone, my wife is helping but, it is a lot of work for just 2 people and she has height issues so some of it has to be just me.

The window with headers above and below is a 2 story walk where the window splits the floors. The bottom header is to carry what would have been on the top plate that's going to get cut out.

The exterior walls are all framed in 2x6 so it was easy to just do it all in 2x6.

 

[GLyford]

For the one or two windows that are carrying roof loads, if you are worried you could use header hangers.

Simpson Strong-Tie 16-Gauge 6x Header Hanger-HH6 - The Home Depot

But by the time you bought two of those, you could also have bought 5 2x6x8' for two studs and a header. Sometimes you just have to waste some materials. You can work around that some by using salvaged bits for things like rafter blocking, soffits, eave ladders, and such.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Personally i would redo all the headers to make them right. but to be practical you could only do the load bearing sides.
I also like to square and sheet walls before standing them.

 

[STx]

I also like to square and sheet walls before standing them.

We're not sheeting with OSB, were just doing house wrap covered in 20' pieces of metal siding run horizontally to match the shed we're adding on to. The color isn't perfect but, it's complimentary. We're trying to make it look as little like an addition as possible.

 

[EddieWalker]

We're not sheeting with OSB, were just doing house wrap covered in 20' pieces of metal siding run horizontally to match the shed we're adding on to. The color isn't perfect but, it's complimentary. We're trying to make it look as little like an addition as possible.

Metal is attached with screws that have rubber gaskets on them. You snug the rubber down to where it begins to bulge out just a little bit. The allows the metal to be snug, but not break the rubber gasket. In no way is this equal to what OSB or plywood does to lock the framing together or stop it from racking. Metal over OSB is the only way to make sure the building doesn't move around on you.

 

[STx]

I know, the building we're living in is put together that way, except with the studs on 30" spacing. I'm also planning to notch the inside 2x6 framing and put permanent 2x4 cross bracing into the walls. I just want to get it all dried in first.

 

[STx]

Well Eddie, SWMBO vetoed my internal bracing plan so the OSB is on its way. Probably better in the long run, it's just another $750 I'd rather spend in the bathroom...

 

[EddieWalker]

Only problem with OSB is that the price is at it's peak right now. It seems to go up and down from $14 a sheet, down to $8, and even lower at times. If you really want to get crazy, look at Zip System. It's a higher grade of OSB with a rubberized coating on the outside that is far better then house wrap. After you install it, you apply special Zip Tape to all the seams, which costs $25 a roll. House wrap is OK, but with houses becoming more and more energy efficient, products like Zip System will become more and more common. Besides sealing a house better then house wrap, it allows you to leave it exposed to the elements a lot longer and in my personal case, it allows me to do one side of my house at a time, and work on it as I have the time to put into it. Plus you can get it in longer lengths then 8ft. I buy the 4 x 9 foot all the time, it's able to go from my bottom plates to my rafters and tie everything all together!!!

 

[STx]

$15.23/ea. It is pretty high right now, thanks to hurricanes and floods. All the building materials have gone up since August. When I bought it in July, it was about $10/ea.

Drywall is really climbing as well.

 

[STx]

Got ceiling joists done the other day, fixing headers this morning.

I know the joists look weird, I have a plan and reason. It's necessitated by where the load bearing walls are and plenum needs for the a/c. Hopefully, I'll get rafter framing started today. I'm not super optimistic though.