any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[Xfaxman]

i'VE BEEN RUNNING OVER THIS THREAD for an hour looking for the reply that tells how to test the bi-directional clutch on the 1998 325D,

If I remember right, I was to elevate the left front tire and the left rear tire. I am not sure what I was supposed to look for after that.

I thought I printed the instructions out and spen the first hour looking for those papers.

I know it is simple and I just can not remember or find the instructions

Here is one: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...master-fans-here-post4589199.html#post4589199

When I went to buy my first 4WD, I took a small floor jack with me. Raised the right side so it could move forward and backward. Found out it was a one way clutch.

If you have a 4 castor furniture dolly, that would also work to get one front wheel off the ground:

 

[jrsavoie]

I managed to get the bi-directional clutch tested. I kind of figured it out by spinning the wheels around. Looks like it's working. - I think anyway. Still not positive.

But in the process of spinning the wheels we noticed that the front of the bi-directional clutch is skipping rope about 1/16"

There was a little slop in the clutch when we put it on. The front should be held center by the spacer - if the hole that the bolt threads into is centered on the shaft, The pinion end seemed to pull up tight where the splines tapered up to nothing. That end could be off just a hair though. Never even thought about checking for that while we had the rear axle off.

The bi-directional clutch is about 5 or 6" long and the splined pinion shaft is only about 2 1/2" to 3" long. I am thinking the front may be centered at the middle of the clutch which would be the end of the splined pinion shaft.

And the back would only have to be out 1/32 to cause 1/16 movement at the front.

Having never worked on these before, I do not know if the movement is normal or something that needs to be fixed.

I will to take a movie with the phone.


1998 Toro Groundsmaster Model/Serial 30795-80161 325D



https://www.toro.com...tails/?id=20055

 

[jrsavoie]

What does the hose that runs to the hydrostat filter from the drain plug, look like on your 325D's?

In the schematics, it shows a hose with a 90 degree bend. My hose is straight.

If the hose is supposed to have a 90 degree bend, it looks like they adjusted the hose barbs to install a straight hose. I have a leak, drip, in front of the drain plug. I can not tell yet if it's the fittings or if it is leaking down from the end of the hose.

I got a few pictures to show what I have. It looked to me like the correct part number was 68-9650. Part 46 on the schematic

1998 Toro Groundsmaster Model/Serial 30795-80161 325D

https://www.toro.com...tails/?id=20055

 

[Xfaxman]

I managed to get the bi-directional clutch tested. I kind of figured it out by spinning the wheels around. Looks like it's working. - I think anyway. Still not positive.

But in the process of spinning the wheels we noticed that the front of the bi-directional clutch is skipping rope about 1/16"

There was a little slop in the clutch when we put it on. The front should be held center by the spacer - if the hole that the bolt threads into is centered on the shaft, The pinion end seemed to pull up tight where the splines tapered up to nothing. That end could be off just a hair though. Never even thought about checking for that while we had the rear axle off.

The bi-directional clutch is about 5 or 6" long and the splined pinion shaft is only about 2 1/2" to 3" long. I am thinking the front may be centered at the middle of the clutch which would be the end of the splined pinion shaft.

And the back would only have to be out 1/32 to cause 1/16 movement at the front.

Having never worked on these before, I do not know if the movement is normal or something that needs to be fixed.

I will to take a movie with the phone.


1998 Toro Groundsmaster Model/Serial 30795-80161 325D



https://www.toro.com...tails/?id=20055

I wouldn't worry about that slight runout on a slow turning driveshaft.

The one way clutch on my 325D has at least that much and it is clamped to the pinion shaft.

Your link didn't work:

 

[Xfaxman]

What does the hose that runs to the hydrostat filter from the drain plug, look like on your 325D's?

In the schematics, it shows a hose with a 90 degree bend. My hose is straight.

If the hose is supposed to have a 90 degree bend, it looks like they adjusted the hose barbs to install a straight hose. I have a leak, drip, in front of the drain plug. I can not tell yet if it's the fittings or if it is leaking down from the end of the hose.

I got a few pictures to show what I have. It looked to me like the correct part number was 68-9650. Part 46 on the schematic

1998 Toro Groundsmaster Model/Serial 30795-80161 325D

https://www.toro.com...tails/?id=20055

This is the same non-working link as in your other post.

Here is the parts drawing:

The hoses on mine are straight just like your picture. :thumbsup:

.

 

[jrsavoie]

This is the same non-working link as in your other post.

Here is the parts drawing:

View attachment 557292

The hoses on mine are straight just like your picture. :thumbsup:

.

Thank you much. I ordered a new hose even though the hose wasn't leaking. I did not know for sure, first thing this morning. The fitting with the O Ring was not tight. After I climbed under this morning - After I ordered the part, I figured out what was leaking.

Later I decided I needed a new U joint. When I went to install the drive shaft, I got the front mounted up and then noticed a little movement in the U joint. I had one on hand so I swapped it out.

Probably from the shaft bashing around when the bi-directional clutch came off.

I am going to make some type of safety ring to mount around the driveshaft. If it ever happens again, at least it won't beat the hydraulic filter

 

[laurencen]

Finally figured the extra parts out, the popsicle part sets the neutral and the other part is attached to it, has a bearing that holds the actuator shaft when the pedal is released.

Tonight I pressed the roll pin out the actuator attached to the pedal, installed the parts on the housing and reattached the pedal actuator to the transmission shaft, after the roll pin was installed figured it would be close

fired it up and no creep so neutral is close but if I press pedal forward it moves a couple foot and loads up motor, release pedal it goes backwards a foot and stops, did this a couple times, at this time no switch is connected, before installing brackets it worked fine just no neutral detent

Anyone any ideas what I am missing

 

[Xfaxman]

took another look at the 3 parts, a bracket, plate similar to Popsicle radial holes on the top and a micro switch, they show up in the hydro-static transmission diagram, micro switch is part 2, any idea what they do???

--------------------------------------------------

Finally figured the extra parts out, the popsicle part sets the neutral and the other part is attached to it, has a bearing that holds the actuator shaft when the pedal is released.

Tonight I pressed the roll pin out the actuator attached to the pedal, installed the parts on the housing and reattached the pedal actuator to the transmission shaft, after the roll pin was installed figured it would be close

fired it up and no creep so neutral is close but if I press pedal forward it moves a couple foot and loads up motor, release pedal it goes backwards a foot and stops, did this a couple times, at this time no switch is connected, before installing brackets it worked fine just no neutral detent

Anyone any ideas what I am missing

Popsicles must be different in Canada.

Here are the parts:

What happens if you keep going forward? Does the engine smooth out?

 

[laurencen]

engine loads up but not move, release pedal and it goes backwards and stops, al I did was punch out the roll pin and mount the plate with radial holes to side, using marks on the plate to get it in place, put the pedal lever back on shaft and press roll pin back in.

the electrical switch the wires were cut so not reconnected them at this time

the machine worked fine without the plate mounted other than no neutral positive location, the pedal would not center by itself

 

[laurencen]

double post