Mounting tire chains

[jmc]

Good thread. I've been meaning to buy chains and if they are this easy to install, it's probably time to do it.

If I buy a rear set for my particular tire size, Will there be chain shortening required the first time? (IE, do they make them large for a group of tire sizes and need to be tweaked by the customer)

Are the "spiderweb tighteners on the outside wheel face only needed if you can't get the chains tightened down?

Thanks.

 

[oldballs]

You can cut the length to fit or remove a cross link if they are a bit to long. I have left enough of the length on purpose and just wire them back. The "spiderweb" I always mount regardless of how snug they fit.

 

[PILOON]

I usually jack one rear at a time and place the chain then rotate.
I use a bungee to retain placement while I fasten the hooks then rotate couple more times to release slack.
For tensioners I made up loops with quality bungee elastic stock and install 6 'S' hooks that are closed on the bungee side.
These tensioner loops have served me well and generally last 6 years or so.

I have been fortunate to have purchased quality bungee stock 'by the yard' which has worked out great 4 me.
To complete my loop I insert the ends into soft aluminum tubing that I had on hand and then proceed to squish it firmly shut and then adding the 6 'S' hooks.
I also have cut inner tubes into about 1.5" 'rings', linked 2 tubes and added 'S' hooks to both ends for inner tensioners.

When I drive to another site I don't hear that 'clankity clank' that indicates you are chipping away the fender paint, also my chains are cross design but at every 3rd link so I enjoy a smooth ride. (and never slip/skid)
Now to add, my chains are 'home made modified' and all the cross links are hardened studded ice chain stock.

With a lighter CUT U need all the help U can get.
Un chained I slipped all over the place, no more. (tires are loaded as well)

 

[Looking4new]

I had help to put my rear chains on 3 years ago. I did the fronts myself by lifting the front end off the ground with the loader. The only time I will take them off is IF I have to replace one or both. I park on wood so am not worried about them rusting off.

 

[LouNY]

Some of the Aquiline tire chains are recommended to be a tad bit loose.
With the European style like I am installing in the pictures I don't use tensioners.
I have had no problem running them without tensioners and at times I will do a
three to four mile road run with them.

 

[PILOON]

I store my chains in a 5 gallon pail with the hooks on the rim. This way they don't get tangled up.
I then usually spray with used oil (for rust).
To install I simply lift the hooks and drape them on the tires and being un tangled all is good.

 

[John_Mc]

I've been doing it the way Lou describes since the 3rd year I owned chains. The first 2 years involved a lot of cussing and shouting at the top of my lungs. Since I switched to this, I can get my chains on in about 15- 20 minutes a tire (and that includes dragging them out of storage and laying them out on the ground). The one difference from Lou's method is, I tie to the center of one of the cross chains, rather than to the side chains. I find this works easier, since I can leave the string on, and it leaves the side chains free to make the connections. The string comes off after the chain connections are made.

When I finally switched to the Euro-style chains (OFA EKO 8 chains), the directions that came with matched this procedure (with only a slight change, since these chains connect in more places than just at the side chains.

 

[LouNY]

I've been doing it the way Lou describes since the 3rd year I owned chains. The first 2 years involved a lot of cussing and shouting at the top of my lungs. Since I switched to this, I can get my chains on in about 15- 20 minutes a tire (and that includes dragging them out of storage and laying them out on the ground). The one difference is, I tie to the center of one of the cross chains, rather than to the side chains. I find this works easier, since I can leave the string on, and it leaves the side chains free to make the connections. The string comes off after the chain connections are made.

When I finally switched to the Euro-style chains (OFA EKO 8 chains), the directions that came with matched this procedure (with only a slight change, since these chains connect in more places than just at the side chains.

Those are good chains, I am always amazed at the number people that can move snow without chains.
The OFA's and Aquiline Talon are very impressive chains.
All I can figure is they must be some pretty flat driveways.
I know on mine that starting down without chains on after the snow has been sticking it would be a wild ride,
and I sure wouldn't be getting back up it.

 

[ovrszd]

Some of the Aquiline tire chains are recommended to be a tad bit loose.
With the European style like I am installing in the pictures I don't use tensioners.
I have had no problem running them without tensioners and at times I will do a
three to four mile road run with them.

I have never used tensioners. Run between 100 and 120 miles at 15mph each time I hafta push snow. I've never lost a chain.

I see no point in an elastic tensioner.

I agree that a little slack gets the best results.

 

[jackpine savage]

I just use a rear blower these days and haven't put on tractor chains in quite a few years. That looks like a great way to handle heavy chains.

I'll throw out a method I use for truck chains. I think it works about as well as jacking up a wheel and it's faster.

- Lay out the chain in front of or behind the tires, ground contact side down. Pull the chain into the tire so you have 2 or 3 cross chains tight against the tire. You can do both sides at the same time.

- Lay a block of wood in the next chain opening. The block should be narrow enough to fit between the cross chains and as long as the tire is wide. I use a 2x6 for my truck but it could be a 2x4 or 2x8 depending on tire and chain opening.

- Drive up on the blocks.

- Now you can drape the chain over the tire and hook it up. The tire isn't sitting on the chain so you can move it around the lugs etc.