Mounting tire chains

[shooterdon]

I struggled putting chains on my Polaris 850 XP UTV. Cannot imagine how difficult it would be on tractor tires.

 

[Phil48]

Good timing for me on this. Definitely going to try it.

I just tried to put a set of chains on my 2538, jacked p the rear end and had easy access to the wheels. Over an hour into it and more 4 letter words than I can remember and no luck.

Same here, never again the old way!!!

Thank again Oaktree for starting this thread!

eukr: Studded Tractor Tire Chains Installation: TireChain.com - YouTube



A nogo for me: Studded Tractor Tire Chains Installation: TireChain.com - YouTube

 

[Coyote machine]

Same here, never again the old way!!!

Thank again Oaktree for starting this thread!

eukr: Studded Tractor Tire Chains Installation: TireChain.com - YouTube



A nogo for me: Studded Tractor Tire Chains Installation: TireChain.com - YouTubeView attachment 579872

Lou in NY started the thread, FWIW.
Yeah, I'll have to try your method. I've spent up to 3 hours or more fighting my chains for the rear wheels, by the time I get them on and tight as possible! Its a hellatious chore and brings out the cussin' in me brain, big time.
15 minutes per side and I'd be taking them off mid-winter just to practice putting them back on! Well maybe not that much fun, but man I dread it based on past experience...
Thanks Lou! :thumbsup:

 

[CobyRupert]

One thing I’ve not seen mentioned. When you start wrapping the tire with the chain, make sure opposite sides of the chain are directly across from each other, so that the cross links go straight across the tire.
It’s VERY difficult to try to rotate one side of the chain around the tire once chain is on the tire.

 

[Phil48]

Lou in NY started the thread, FWIW.

Sorry Lou! My mistake!:thumbsup:

Phil

 

[Jchonline]

I think it will be quicker to put my chains on while I still have the backhoe on the tractor in the late fall. Downriggers to lift it up, put in neutral on level ground. I am sure there will still be lots of 4 letter words!

 

[Gordon Gould]

]I think it will be quicker to put my chains on while I still have the backhoe on the tractor in the late fall. Downriggers to lift it up,[/B] put in neutral on level ground. I am sure there will still be lots of 4 letter words!

Maybe maybe not. I think this method deserves at least a try. I predict you will be surprised. I tried lifting the front w/ my bucket and doing it old way. I find pulling them on by driving forward much easier. And they end up tighter when you get all the way around.

gg

 

[jgayman]

Maybe maybe not. I think this method deserves at least a try. I predict you will be surprised. I tried lifting the front w/ my bucket and doing it old way. I find pulling them on by driving forward much easier. And they end up tighter when you get all the way around.

gg

I still prefer jacking up one rear wheel at a time which still allows you to use this method. I like being able to manually rotate the tire and pull the chains around as the fender clearance is a bit tight and when sitting on the tractor and driving it forward you almost impossible to notice if something binds or catches until you hear the nasty crunch.

 

[JJT]

"My happiest experience is to mount the chains and then never have enough snow that season to get in it. " I'll second that!

 

[fruitcakesa]

Yeah, no kidding.
I don't think there IS an easy way to put chains on a tractor. I usually just lay them out on the ground and back over them so the tire is more or less centered then just work 'em up over the lugs on both sides.
4 letter words? What are they?

At 150 lbs a piece, I can't lift the chains over the tires so I drive over them, lift one end up enough to hook it with a grab chain and then slowly work the wheel chain up while simultaneously taking up the slack in the grab chain...4 letter words, hah!

 

[jmc]

Good thread. I've been meaning to buy chains and if they are this easy to install, it's probably time to do it.

If I buy a rear set for my particular tire size, Will there be chain shortening required the first time? (IE, do they make them large for a group of tire sizes and need to be tweaked by the customer)

Are the "spiderweb tighteners on the outside wheel face only needed if you can't get the chains tightened down?

Thanks.

 

[oldballs]

You can cut the length to fit or remove a cross link if they are a bit to long. I have left enough of the length on purpose and just wire them back. The "spiderweb" I always mount regardless of how snug they fit.

 

[PILOON]

I usually jack one rear at a time and place the chain then rotate.
I use a bungee to retain placement while I fasten the hooks then rotate couple more times to release slack.
For tensioners I made up loops with quality bungee elastic stock and install 6 'S' hooks that are closed on the bungee side.
These tensioner loops have served me well and generally last 6 years or so.

I have been fortunate to have purchased quality bungee stock 'by the yard' which has worked out great 4 me.
To complete my loop I insert the ends into soft aluminum tubing that I had on hand and then proceed to squish it firmly shut and then adding the 6 'S' hooks.
I also have cut inner tubes into about 1.5" 'rings', linked 2 tubes and added 'S' hooks to both ends for inner tensioners.

When I drive to another site I don't hear that 'clankity clank' that indicates you are chipping away the fender paint, also my chains are cross design but at every 3rd link so I enjoy a smooth ride. (and never slip/skid)
Now to add, my chains are 'home made modified' and all the cross links are hardened studded ice chain stock.

With a lighter CUT U need all the help U can get.
Un chained I slipped all over the place, no more. (tires are loaded as well)

 

[Looking4new]

I had help to put my rear chains on 3 years ago. I did the fronts myself by lifting the front end off the ground with the loader. The only time I will take them off is IF I have to replace one or both. I park on wood so am not worried about them rusting off.

 

[LouNY]

Some of the Aquiline tire chains are recommended to be a tad bit loose.
With the European style like I am installing in the pictures I don't use tensioners.
I have had no problem running them without tensioners and at times I will do a
three to four mile road run with them.

 

[PILOON]

I store my chains in a 5 gallon pail with the hooks on the rim. This way they don't get tangled up.
I then usually spray with used oil (for rust).
To install I simply lift the hooks and drape them on the tires and being un tangled all is good.

 

[John_Mc]

I've been doing it the way Lou describes since the 3rd year I owned chains. The first 2 years involved a lot of cussing and shouting at the top of my lungs. Since I switched to this, I can get my chains on in about 15- 20 minutes a tire (and that includes dragging them out of storage and laying them out on the ground). The one difference from Lou's method is, I tie to the center of one of the cross chains, rather than to the side chains. I find this works easier, since I can leave the string on, and it leaves the side chains free to make the connections. The string comes off after the chain connections are made.

When I finally switched to the Euro-style chains (OFA EKO 8 chains), the directions that came with matched this procedure (with only a slight change, since these chains connect in more places than just at the side chains.

 

[LouNY]

I've been doing it the way Lou describes since the 3rd year I owned chains. The first 2 years involved a lot of cussing and shouting at the top of my lungs. Since I switched to this, I can get my chains on in about 15- 20 minutes a tire (and that includes dragging them out of storage and laying them out on the ground). The one difference is, I tie to the center of one of the cross chains, rather than to the side chains. I find this works easier, since I can leave the string on, and it leaves the side chains free to make the connections. The string comes off after the chain connections are made.

When I finally switched to the Euro-style chains (OFA EKO 8 chains), the directions that came with matched this procedure (with only a slight change, since these chains connect in more places than just at the side chains.

Those are good chains, I am always amazed at the number people that can move snow without chains.
The OFA's and Aquiline Talon are very impressive chains.
All I can figure is they must be some pretty flat driveways.
I know on mine that starting down without chains on after the snow has been sticking it would be a wild ride,
and I sure wouldn't be getting back up it.

 

[ovrszd]

Some of the Aquiline tire chains are recommended to be a tad bit loose.
With the European style like I am installing in the pictures I don't use tensioners.
I have had no problem running them without tensioners and at times I will do a
three to four mile road run with them.

I have never used tensioners. Run between 100 and 120 miles at 15mph each time I hafta push snow. I've never lost a chain.

I see no point in an elastic tensioner.

I agree that a little slack gets the best results.

 

[jackpine savage]

I just use a rear blower these days and haven't put on tractor chains in quite a few years. That looks like a great way to handle heavy chains.

I'll throw out a method I use for truck chains. I think it works about as well as jacking up a wheel and it's faster.

- Lay out the chain in front of or behind the tires, ground contact side down. Pull the chain into the tire so you have 2 or 3 cross chains tight against the tire. You can do both sides at the same time.

- Lay a block of wood in the next chain opening. The block should be narrow enough to fit between the cross chains and as long as the tire is wide. I use a 2x6 for my truck but it could be a 2x4 or 2x8 depending on tire and chain opening.

- Drive up on the blocks.

- Now you can drape the chain over the tire and hook it up. The tire isn't sitting on the chain so you can move it around the lugs etc.