Rear Blade What can a rear blade do for me that my box blade can't? Road and ditches mainly

[redman135]

If you go for a scraper blade DEFINATELY get a tail wheel so you can get a high quality finish. If someone says you can carry the blade on the 3ph and skim a good finish they don't know what they are talking about. I used to do footpaths, residential and commercial builing sand pads and a tail wheel is a nessecity.
In short a scraper blade needs to be able to offset to the outside edge of the tyre when angled and tilted, then when you have cleaned your ditches ,pull the material onto the road and lower your tail wheel to do finish work. Note, some tail wheels can be flipped up so you can reverse the blade. I reccomend you avoid the fixed tail wheels.
Weather you go, all manuel , all hydraulic or mixed is up to your budget.

 

[oosik]

I'm not about to argue with redman. I've used a rear blade on my driveway, successfully I might add, for 38+ years now. Is it the ideal answer - no. But it does an adequate job. For that matter, so does the LPGS and the box blade. Each has its use.

The reason I have an 8' Rhino 950 - weight, but also so I can offset, angle & tilt. You can do your own computations on angle and loss of plowed width. When I angle the 96" blade to plow snow - the actual plowed width is - right at 72". Sometimes if the snow is fresh, light and dry - I can angle less and get 76" or 78". I will also offset when I plow snow. This is so I don't have to be right on the darn edge of the driveway to clear either side. The outside to outside width of my rear tires - 80".

When I "muck out" the driveway ditches - I will use all three - offset, angle and tilt. Fortunately - I don't have too many ditches on my mile long driveway. It's just off the driveway and it bleeds out into the open range land.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I think that I can get a pretty good job without any tail-gauge wheels.

Others might think otherwise. :confused3:

Just my :2cents:

 

[oosik]

Geez - I've often wished my driveway was pure dirt, or sand - even gravel. It just isn't - and never will be. It's a mixture of sand, gravel and the ever present volcanic ash. The volcanic ash mixes with the sand/gravel and turns the driveway to concrete during the summer.

Then there is the basaltic lava. It comes and goes in shelfs/layers. I shouldn't whine. It has held up well for 38+ years & requires little maintenance. I've never had to add additional material. Just grade what I have and pack her down.

BTW - take heed of what kThompson has said about angling the rear blade and have a good look at the far right picture of MtnViewRanch. The blade is at a good angle and cuts the material well. This is the way I use my rear blade for both dirt and snow. I AM able to do dirt work on the driveway - early spring & late fall. The driveway is still damp. I very seldom do driveway dirt work during the summer. If I do - first it's either the LPGS or ROBB with their scarifiers.

 

[fried1765]

I think that I can get a pretty good job without any tail-gauge wheels.

Others might think otherwise. :confused3:

Just my :2cents:

SAME HERE!
32HP Ford 1920, now using EA Deluxe 6 WAY Scrape Blade.
Been using a rear blade (no tail wheel) for 49 years.

 

[Egon]

Gage wheels are a great help if you are working on a bumpy section that the tractor can’t stay level on.

Notice you don’t see box blades on larger government road building projects. The closer you can get a rear blade to function like a road grader blade The better a job you can do. Hence the gauge wheels as far back as possible.

A tractor with a back blade working on a level surface is just a little different than trying to level an uneven surface with a back blade.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Gage wheels are a great help if you are working on a bumpy section that the tractor can稚 stay level on.

Notice you don稚 see box blades on larger government road building projects. The closer you can get a rear blade to function like a road grader blade The better a job you can do. Hence the gauge wheels as far back as possible.

A tractor with a back blade working on a level surface is just a little different than trying to level an uneven surface with a back blade.

ust need an operator that

The point of me even posting those pictures was that it was mentioned that a small even cut can't be done. Well it can and is all the time.


In the bumpy situation you are talking about, a LPGS works great to get everything evened out, then shape with the rear blade. I can actually do a pretty good job with just the rear blade, but found that it is simply easier to use the LPGS and then the rear blade.:thumbsup:

I did not realize that any of us were ever talking about how large commercial road projects were done. And yes they do use box blades for finish grading on interstate highway projects, at least here in Southern California they do.

 

[Thunder chicken]

i wish i had a before picture but this newly gravelled area was not level by any means, and was overgrown and full of big rocks. but with a bit of loader work along with the rear blade and 25 yards of material (some A gravel before the blue crushed) it's not bad for a rookie, i didn't think. I did have to get our and use a rake a few times and pic a few stones
I wish i had a hydraulic top link, would have saved a few trips up and down the stairs!

 

[MechanicalGuy]

So my price quotes are almost in. All models with 3 hydraulic cylinders.

Land Pride RBT4096 8' $4250 7' $3500
Rhino Ag 850 8' $3900
Land Shark 8' $3340
Bush Hog 91 series 8' still waiting.

On the fence about 7' vs 8'. I know the 8' would be appreciated in many instances, but not sure if it would be a little too much for my tractor.

 

[LouNY]

With any kind of blade you do not have to take a full bite or go the deepest it can,
does it make a lot of difference if you are cutting 1 inch deep and making 3 passes compared to cutting 3 inches in one pass and having to fight for traction.
I have very seldom run out of power with a tractor blade, I have run out of traction frequently.
The wider blade that will cover your wheel tracks even when angled will work better for you, in my opinion.
Good Luck

 

[MechanicalGuy]

So my price quotes are almost in. All models with 3 hydraulic cylinders.

Land Pride RBT4096 8' $4250 7' $3500
Rhino Ag 850 8' $3900
Land Shark 8' $3340
Bush Hog 91 series 8' still waiting.

On the fence about 7' vs 8'. I know the 8' would be appreciated in many instances, but not sure if it would be a little too much for my tractor.


The EA Land Shark is the least expensive but also looks to have the least blade support. The Land Pride has 0% financing.

 

[ovrszd]

IMO, the perfect rear blade for your tractor would be a Land Pride RBT3596 or an RBT4096.

You can get it with all manual adjustments or individual functions with a hydraulic as you like.

I highly recommend skid shoes, others may or may not.

Good luck with all your research and your ultimate decision.

I bought this RBT3596 used last Winter. It had a hydraulic angle cylinder on it. I added a diverter and a tilt cylinder. It's the perfect blade for my 47HP Ford. I wouldn't want it any narrower cause you'd struggle to cover your tracks when angled. Wouldn't want it any wider because it would overpower the tractor weight when angled and moving heavy material.

If I intended to use it on my 95hp Kubota I'd want the 45 series in a 9 footer.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

So I appreciate the feedback on size so far, but I'm still not sure 7' or 8'. Here is some other features of the ones I've been considering.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

I bought this RBT3596 used last Winter. It had a hydraulic angle cylinder on it. I added a diverter and a tilt cylinder. It's the perfect blade for my 47HP Ford. I wouldn't want it any narrower cause you'd struggle to cover your tracks when angled. Wouldn't want it any wider because it would overpower the tractor weight when angled and moving heavy material.

If I intended to use it on my 95hp Kubota I'd want the 45 series in a 9 footer.

I appreciate your pictures and thoughts. What would you be missing if that were a 7' blade instead of an 8'? I'm back and forth on this aspect.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

With any kind of blade you do not have to take a full bite or go the deepest it can,
does it make a lot of difference if you are cutting 1 inch deep and making 3 passes compared to cutting 3 inches in one pass and having to fight for traction.
I have very seldom run out of power with a tractor blade, I have run out of traction frequently.
The wider blade that will cover your wheel tracks even when angled will work better for you, in my opinion.
Good Luck

thanks. I'm just wondering if the extra width would be a liability on the somewhat narrow sections of my road. The blade is already going to be awkward enough as far as it will be hanging out back, and turning around isn't easy in some places. I just need to think about it more I guess. I'd like to hear thoughts like these too though.

Another question I have; I have two remotes and a hydraulic top link. Am I going to want to keep the hydraulic top link on the tractor with the blade in place? If so, then I'll be using a three way diverter on the other remote to move the three cylinders on the blade.

Or will I want to put the solid toplink back in place? Things like these I have no practical experience so I really don't know what I'll end up wanting to do. Should I add a third rear remote? Or just run hoses from my grapple third function back to the rear for additional hydraulics?

 

[ovrszd]

I appreciate your pictures and thoughts. What would you be missing if that were a 7' blade instead of an 8'? I'm back and forth on this aspect.

When angled to move dirt/gravel I would not cover my tracks. Probably the same problem if trying to move wet snow. "Beautiful South" might mean you don't have that problem. Personally, I think you need an 8'.

 

[ovrszd]

thanks. I'm just wondering if the extra width would be a liability on the somewhat narrow sections of my road. The blade is already going to be awkward enough as far as it will be hanging out back, and turning around isn't easy in some places. I just need to think about it more I guess. I'd like to hear thoughts like these too though.

Another question I have; I have two remotes and a hydraulic top link. Am I going to want to keep the hydraulic top link on the tractor with the blade in place? If so, then I'll be using a three way diverter on the other remote to move the three cylinders on the blade.

Or will I want to put the solid toplink back in place? Things like these I have no practical experience so I really don't know what I'll end up wanting to do. Should I add a third rear remote? Or just run hoses from my grapple third function back to the rear for additional hydraulics?

You will want the hydraulic top link.

You could use an electric over hydraulic diverter valve as I did and get two functions on the blade. I only have two remotes on the Ford. Kept the hydraulic top link and then run two functions on the blade. I chose angle and tilt. To side shift the blade I have to do it mechanically.

 

[airbiscuit]

I generally agree that you want a wide enough blade to cover your tracks, however, they all have an offset feature which means you can at least cover the side that matters.

 

[CoyPatton]

Personally, I would want to cover my tracks with the blade. That would be a top priority!
While the hydraulic top link is convenient, it has a limited benefit for a straight rear blade. Once you have determined your best attack orientation of the blade, there are very limited benefits to changing that orientation. Much different than other implements.
There should be no issue in using a 3 rd function hydraulic control for your blade or loader functions if it is not in use. The only issue is to ensure your lines will not interfere in any operations as you route to the rear of your tractor.
If 7’ would not cover my tracks, I would not consider this blade!

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Personally, I would want to cover my tracks with the blade. That would be a top priority!
While the hydraulic top link is convenient, it has a limited benefit for a straight rear blade. Once you have determined your best attack orientation of the blade, there are very limited benefits to changing that orientation. Much different than other implements.
There should be no issue in using a 3 rd function hydraulic control for your blade or loader functions if it is not in use. The only issue is to ensure your lines will not interfere in any operations as you route to the rear of your tractor.
If 7’ would not cover my tracks, I would not consider this blade!

Thanks. 7' would cover my tracks in the straight form. It wouldn't at an angle. Is that what you're referring to?