Rear Blade What can a rear blade do for me that my box blade can't? Road and ditches mainly

[MechanicalGuy]

So my price quotes are almost in. All models with 3 hydraulic cylinders.

Land Pride RBT4096 8' $4250 7' $3500
Rhino Ag 850 8' $3900
Land Shark 8' $3340
Bush Hog 91 series 8' still waiting.

On the fence about 7' vs 8'. I know the 8' would be appreciated in many instances, but not sure if it would be a little too much for my tractor.


The EA Land Shark is the least expensive but also looks to have the least blade support. The Land Pride has 0% financing.

 

[ovrszd]

IMO, the perfect rear blade for your tractor would be a Land Pride RBT3596 or an RBT4096.

You can get it with all manual adjustments or individual functions with a hydraulic as you like.

I highly recommend skid shoes, others may or may not.

Good luck with all your research and your ultimate decision.

I bought this RBT3596 used last Winter. It had a hydraulic angle cylinder on it. I added a diverter and a tilt cylinder. It's the perfect blade for my 47HP Ford. I wouldn't want it any narrower cause you'd struggle to cover your tracks when angled. Wouldn't want it any wider because it would overpower the tractor weight when angled and moving heavy material.

If I intended to use it on my 95hp Kubota I'd want the 45 series in a 9 footer.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

So I appreciate the feedback on size so far, but I'm still not sure 7' or 8'. Here is some other features of the ones I've been considering.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

I bought this RBT3596 used last Winter. It had a hydraulic angle cylinder on it. I added a diverter and a tilt cylinder. It's the perfect blade for my 47HP Ford. I wouldn't want it any narrower cause you'd struggle to cover your tracks when angled. Wouldn't want it any wider because it would overpower the tractor weight when angled and moving heavy material.

If I intended to use it on my 95hp Kubota I'd want the 45 series in a 9 footer.

I appreciate your pictures and thoughts. What would you be missing if that were a 7' blade instead of an 8'? I'm back and forth on this aspect.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

With any kind of blade you do not have to take a full bite or go the deepest it can,
does it make a lot of difference if you are cutting 1 inch deep and making 3 passes compared to cutting 3 inches in one pass and having to fight for traction.
I have very seldom run out of power with a tractor blade, I have run out of traction frequently.
The wider blade that will cover your wheel tracks even when angled will work better for you, in my opinion.
Good Luck

thanks. I'm just wondering if the extra width would be a liability on the somewhat narrow sections of my road. The blade is already going to be awkward enough as far as it will be hanging out back, and turning around isn't easy in some places. I just need to think about it more I guess. I'd like to hear thoughts like these too though.

Another question I have; I have two remotes and a hydraulic top link. Am I going to want to keep the hydraulic top link on the tractor with the blade in place? If so, then I'll be using a three way diverter on the other remote to move the three cylinders on the blade.

Or will I want to put the solid toplink back in place? Things like these I have no practical experience so I really don't know what I'll end up wanting to do. Should I add a third rear remote? Or just run hoses from my grapple third function back to the rear for additional hydraulics?

 

[ovrszd]

I appreciate your pictures and thoughts. What would you be missing if that were a 7' blade instead of an 8'? I'm back and forth on this aspect.

When angled to move dirt/gravel I would not cover my tracks. Probably the same problem if trying to move wet snow. "Beautiful South" might mean you don't have that problem. Personally, I think you need an 8'.

 

[ovrszd]

thanks. I'm just wondering if the extra width would be a liability on the somewhat narrow sections of my road. The blade is already going to be awkward enough as far as it will be hanging out back, and turning around isn't easy in some places. I just need to think about it more I guess. I'd like to hear thoughts like these too though.

Another question I have; I have two remotes and a hydraulic top link. Am I going to want to keep the hydraulic top link on the tractor with the blade in place? If so, then I'll be using a three way diverter on the other remote to move the three cylinders on the blade.

Or will I want to put the solid toplink back in place? Things like these I have no practical experience so I really don't know what I'll end up wanting to do. Should I add a third rear remote? Or just run hoses from my grapple third function back to the rear for additional hydraulics?

You will want the hydraulic top link.

You could use an electric over hydraulic diverter valve as I did and get two functions on the blade. I only have two remotes on the Ford. Kept the hydraulic top link and then run two functions on the blade. I chose angle and tilt. To side shift the blade I have to do it mechanically.

 

[airbiscuit]

I generally agree that you want a wide enough blade to cover your tracks, however, they all have an offset feature which means you can at least cover the side that matters.

 

[CoyPatton]

Personally, I would want to cover my tracks with the blade. That would be a top priority!
While the hydraulic top link is convenient, it has a limited benefit for a straight rear blade. Once you have determined your best attack orientation of the blade, there are very limited benefits to changing that orientation. Much different than other implements.
There should be no issue in using a 3 rd function hydraulic control for your blade or loader functions if it is not in use. The only issue is to ensure your lines will not interfere in any operations as you route to the rear of your tractor.
If 7’ would not cover my tracks, I would not consider this blade!

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Personally, I would want to cover my tracks with the blade. That would be a top priority!
While the hydraulic top link is convenient, it has a limited benefit for a straight rear blade. Once you have determined your best attack orientation of the blade, there are very limited benefits to changing that orientation. Much different than other implements.
There should be no issue in using a 3 rd function hydraulic control for your blade or loader functions if it is not in use. The only issue is to ensure your lines will not interfere in any operations as you route to the rear of your tractor.
If 7’ would not cover my tracks, I would not consider this blade!

Thanks. 7' would cover my tracks in the straight form. It wouldn't at an angle. Is that what you're referring to?