Most useful implements?

[mwemaxxowner]

As soon as the local kubota dealership calls me back, I'm going to sit down and probably purchase myself a loader...that happens to have a tractor attached to it and a trailer underneath it .

They are one of the few local Hudson Brother's dealers, which is a local trailer manufacturer that builds great trailers. I borrowed a few times lately and got fed up, so I started looking at their trailers. Which sent me down a rabbit hole once I saw the 0% offer . We'll see how it turns out!

 

[jjp8182]

When it comes to augers/post-hole diggers a hydraulically driven one (whether FEL or 3pt mounted) has one major advantage over a PTO-driven one in that it that they can be run in *reverse* -- it may not seem like much until you're having to get a 12"+ auger unstuck from an underground obstacle.

I would also echo the 3pt pallet forks and carry-all (which are still on my wishlist even with a FEL and FEL mounted pallet forks) -- or even a Big Tool Rack which IMO is very nice commercially made carry-all that is priced for high demand the advertising has created (not speaking bad about them as they do look to be very nice implements, but just have to shake my head at the prices at which they are selling).

Personally what I use the most is my 3pt finish mower ... which I've actually found to be preferable to zero-turn or mid-mount mower setups. That and the hydraulic top-link which makes using just about every other 3pt implement easier and/or more productive. Which even includes making the mower more effective as it allows me to lift and carry the mower over puddles permitting me to mow the grass/weeds without running the blades into the water (have a few wet/low spots that may not fully dry out until the rain slows/stops for a few weeks in mid-to-late summer).

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I will definitely have a set of pallet forks, and will build a carry all of sorts that I can put on them or take off (maybe built on a pallet). I've seen "the thumb" mentioned on here lately. I think it might make a great modification to a set of 3ph pallet forks, and or a FEL. If I buy a tractor I'll get the rear remote valves and third function valve up front and be done with it, ready to expand capabilities if and when.

I believe I've decided not to consider an earth auger, even if I found a good used deal. I have some other fencing planned, and I do occasionally need to set a post for trellis wires over my garden or something, but eventually I'll have all the fencing run around my property that I could ever want and then that implement would be almost useless. I already have a 2 stroke auger that works well, and I'm in sand that's easy to dig and/or run a 2 stroke auger in.

My dad has 3 acres and I used his 6' woods finish mower there from the time I was about 10 until 18. It worked well for wide open space, but I have 0.8 acres to mow with a lot to mow around. I just don't see it being preferable to the zero turn that I already have, and is already paid for .

After tilling my garden, I see great value in a tiller. Even for doing some light grading work around my property. I think I could hit it with the tiller then finish off by hand in a jiffy, or smooth it with a bucket if I wind up with a front end loader.

My daughter, wife, and I planted all of our fruits and vegetables yesterday in the new garden. We enjoyed getting out there and working in the dirt, and my daughter (6 years old) is absolutely stoked about watching the plants grow and can't wait to "eat her basil" . She will literally pick basil straight from the plant and munch on it .

I tend to meander through my thoughts, but I said that to say that I think we'll continue gardening in some capacity, so I think a tiller would be worthwhile. Even though they aren't cheap. The current measurements are about 30x 18. We may even need to add room for one more row this year.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

Well, this has evolved a little bit, since deciding to buy a BX1880 with FEL. I have a set of pallet forks on order.

I want a piranha tooth bar on my bucket for sure. I may get a ratchet rake. I keep reading repeatedly that, for light grading, I will probably be able to do with a RR and FEL what I could do with a box blade. Thoughts on that? I can get an LMC box blade for about $550 locally so it's not a hug amount of money spent, but at the same time it's not pocket change. I've used a box blade but not much, and I don't know if I'll ever use it enough to get "good" at it.

I also think this may mean I won't find myself needing a landscape rake too badly. I'll get a carry all for the rear so I have the option to carry things on pallets front or rear. I'll need ballast on the back, so if I can't do that with the carry all I'll probably need/want the BB anyway. I'm not super interested in buying a ballast box.

I do think I'll want a tiller, and a subsoiler/middle buster.

 

[jjp8182]

While I haven't used ratchet rakes, I think that it'll depend on the nature of the "light grading" being done. While digging/breaking soil can be done with a FEL, they really aren't optimized for it but really do better with handling already loose bulk material - or other types of material handling tasks with the appropriate implements.

Personally having come to an immediate & complete dead stop while using a box blade before (got caught a rather large root with the rippers/scarifiers) I'd say if/when digging/ripping soil with the FEL (using bucket or grapple) knowing what's underground is even more important than it is with 3pt implements - just to avoid inducing side loads on the FEL. Even if no permanent damage is done to the FEL when a side-load is imparted to it the experience it can be a rather unpleasantly unforgettable.

Something to consider with the subsoiler/middle buster would be how deep you're wanting to go (along with where/how you'd use it) since the rippers/scarifiers on a box blade can used to good effect (without dragging soil along) if the box blade is tipped fully forward and the rear cutting edge isn't permitted to make ground contact. Did that last spring to create planting lanes in my garden since I didn't have any other quick method of laying out parallel lines for hand-planting.

A carry all can be a very useful implement (finally got around to ordering one for myself even though I have pallet forks, and buckets for the FEL) since the platform built upon it can be customized/replaced when needed. It also keeps the objects placed upon it behind you -- which can be rather nice when driving forward since if an item falls (and you don't see it) it won't be driven over -- and unlike with a bucket carried objects aren't as likely to be "out of sight out of mind" when you try to scoop into a pile with the loader.

When I get mine and build platform on it, I'm planning to bolt a 2" receiver hitch plate to the bottom of it (probably run some additional support across the bottom to help distribute the loads as a "just in case" even though it's probably overkill for light loads) so I can use it for some trailer moving ...and take advantage of all the other 2" receiver tools/attachments that exist. Will potentially add a set of casters so it can more easily be moved when not on the tractor as well.

Just my thoughts though....

 

[Creamer]

While I haven't used ratchet rakes, I think that it'll depend on the nature of the "light grading" being done. While digging/breaking soil can be done with a FEL, they really aren't optimized for it but really do better with handling already loose bulk material - or other types of material handling tasks with the appropriate implements.

Personally having come to an immediate & complete dead stop while using a box blade before (got caught a rather large root with the rippers/scarifiers) I'd say if/when digging/ripping soil with the FEL (using bucket or grapple) knowing what's underground is even more important than it is with 3pt implements - just to avoid inducing side loads on the FEL. Even if no permanent damage is done to the FEL when a side-load is imparted to it the experience it can be a rather unpleasantly unforgettable.

Something to consider with the subsoiler/middle buster would be how deep you're wanting to go (along with where/how you'd use it) since the rippers/scarifiers on a box blade can used to good effect (without dragging soil along) if the box blade is tipped fully forward and the rear cutting edge isn't permitted to make ground contact. Did that last spring to create planting lanes in my garden since I didn't have any other quick method of laying out parallel lines for hand-planting.

A carry all can be a very useful implement (finally got around to ordering one for myself even though I have pallet forks, and buckets for the FEL) since the platform built upon it can be customized/replaced when needed. It also keeps the objects placed upon it behind you -- which can be rather nice when driving forward since if an item falls (and you don't see it) it won't be driven over -- and unlike with a bucket carried objects aren't as likely to be "out of sight out of mind" when you try to scoop into a pile with the loader.

When I get mine and build platform on it, I'm planning to bolt a 2" receiver hitch plate to the bottom of it (probably run some additional support across the bottom to help distribute the loads as a "just in case" even though it's probably overkill for light loads) so I can use it for some trailer moving ...and take advantage of all the other 2" receiver tools/attachments that exist. Will potentially add a set of casters so it can more easily be moved when not on the tractor as well.

Just my thoughts though....

Not sure why you would want a carry-all if you have forks. Put your hitch receiver on your forks. The forks can carry different boxes depending on what you want and it is easier to back under a new box with the forks than it is to hitch a new 3 pt implement. So the forks with different boxes gives you more options and easier changeover.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I do think I want both. That gives me the option to carry things on either end, or even both, depending on the situation. A carry all is cheap, although I think I may want one that is labeled as actual 3ph pallet forks with fork tines for easier use with a pallet. I could use one for rear ballast if I happen to have it before I buy a box blade. I could see it being useful for no more than they cost. If the price was the same as the forks for my loader, then no, absolutely not! There is also more lift capacity with the 3ph.

 

[Creamer]

Good point. I was thinking pallet forks on the 3 pt and you were thinking loader. Either way you grabbed the idea of pallet forks for the 3 pt because then you can grab different things such as counter weight, a firewood cutting box, a fencing tools and supplies box, etc

 

[mwemaxxowner]

Yep, first and foremost was pallet forks for the loader! First implement I've bought!

 

[90cummins]

My most used (home made) 3pt attachment are rear forks which are indispensable to me.
They are on the tractor 90% of the time in the summer. I use pallets to store my attachments on which makes it easy to move & store.
I use them to lift logs so I can cut it for fire wood and also move 1/2 cord bins of firewood.
I welded a hook near the top link so I can skid logs or even pull small trees out of the ground.
My log splitter is setup so I can back into it lift it and place it where it is needed. It’s also handy to be able to adjust the height of the splitter to save my back.
I also mounted (securely attached) a lockable truck tool box to a pallet to keep my chain saws in.
I find rear forks are easier than front forks to engage pallets not to mention the greater lift capacity.
90cummins

 

[sallyb]

To preface this, I will be using a 21hp White/Iseki 4wd diesel tractor with suitcase weights on the front. No FEL. It has been a great tractor, my dad has had it for probably 20 years now. He runs a concrete business, and now has a healthy Takeuchi skid steer, no longer uses the tractor much. He also has a zero turn mower and doesn't use the tractor and finish mower much any more. Soon I'll be building a shed and bringing the tractor over to my house. I have an acre of land. I have a lot of trees to keep up with, I am begining to become pretty particular about my sod, I will eventually have a little grading to do here and there, I have some irrigation to install and keep up with, and I move a lot of heavy items around by myself. I make creative use of trailer, dollies, hand trucks, truck bed, etc. I also have several projects where I will need to set fence posts. I would suspect for the next 5 years or so I'll be leveling and top dressing the lawn with a sand/OM blend.

That's just a back story on the types of things I'll be doing. No farm, cows to give hay, etc.

I'm just curious what 3 PH implements you all find the most useful. Even my particular needs aside.

I plan to get a box scraper, landscaping rake, subsoiler (to pull pipe with), forks, dirt scoop, and a boom pole eventually. Keeping my eye out for things used until I have a real NEED for a particular piece. At which point I would maybe buy new.

I will need to rent a sod cutter occasionally. I wonder if there is a 3ph sod cutter attachment? I haven't found any.

I also may rent a post hole digger. I have a 2 stroke gas one but tractor driven would be easy!

What have you guys found REALLY useful? Especially something you might not think about.

I use my blade ,loader with thumb and homemade debris bar, a backhoe for tractor with thumb for backhoe would be something I would find quite useful. I garden so I have tiller, middle buster, and 3 point raised bed I had made from an old Massey cultivater. 3 point shedder I rebuilt, but shedder was free. I have a 100d Davis trencher that has separate pump that uses tractor PTO to run, I am thinking I could build small trailer to mount it on and pull behind tractor.

 

[sallyb]

I use my blade ,loader with thumb and homemade debris bar, a backhoe for tractor with thumb for backhoe would be something I would find quite useful. I garden so I have tiller, middle buster, and 3 point raised bed I had made from an old Massey cultivater. 3 point shedder I rebuilt, but shedder was free. I have a 100d Davis trencher that has separate pump that uses tractor PTO to run, I am thinking I could build small trailer to mount it on and pull behind tractor.

The Davis is old and heavy , I have run it to see if it was operational. The bucket has a hole that think maybe can repair with piece of metal. If I can put some pictures up maybe someone can provide ideas on how to go forward with this project. Thanking in advance.

 

[jjp8182]

Not sure why you would want a carry-all if you have forks. Put your hitch receiver on your forks. The forks can carry different boxes depending on what you want and it is easier to back under a new box with the forks than it is to hitch a new 3 pt implement. So the forks with different boxes gives you more options and easier changeover.

I probably should have been a bit more clear (though it seems to have been sorted out). At the moment the only forks I have are for the loader, not the three-point. I may get an adapter at some point and/or a dedicated set of 3pt forks so I can adjust them to the tractor's 3pt range of motion (and take advantage of the higher lift capacity) .....but with telescoping lower links, the telescoping sway bars, and a hydraulic toplink I find it easier to change implements with those features than I did with the one time I used a quick hitch - just because the implements and tractor aren't always on flat and level ground together.

While I agree that forks can have more utility, they also tend to extend further off the back than a carry all ...and the narrowest dimension can be a bit wider -- which for some of my uses makes a bit of difference. With casters on a carry-all I should be able to roll the whole thing through my covered patio (and potentially through my backdoor) ...which means if/when I'm using it as a "portable kitchen counter" when having a bonfire I can reduce the number of trips spent carrying drinks/water jugs, food, utensils, etc.

So depending on the uses/limitations the two different things could have there own unique advantages.... but it depends on a person's uses.

 

[sallyb]

This is trencher Davis 100a I saw it in a field and bought it, it does function, someone tried to make it 3 point , but this trencher is much to heavy for my 2910i Branson. So I am thinking of making it pull able. It operates with PTO pump attached to PTO on tractor. I am next putting up pictures of trailer in progress to accommodate trencher all ideas are welcome.

 

[sallyb]

I haven’t attached axles or wheels or even bed , I also found this trailer frame in a field , bought it, I figured $50 for frame wasn’t a bad deal, the axle was way too small but frame is a good size, I think it must have come from a travel trailer.

 

[sallyb]

This is raised bed holler I had built, unfortunately the welding machine shop sold and the new owners will not do small things. Again found Ferguson frame this time the people give it to you if you haul it and some trash they had, I did so. I think Ipaid machine shop $150 to build.

 

[sallyb]

I never had use of tractor or loader, I dug all water lines on property using a front-tine roto tiller-river bottom land is like a brick. I would water ground run roto tiller, dig and clear trench and do it again until I went 2ft. I was much younger, now am 69 yrs old and love my front end loader, I added thumb from Greens Machine Shop, I can pick-up a single piece of tin or load tree branches. Digging water and Utility line a middle buster would be a good investment for you. The roto-tiller belonged to my cousin, he kindly let me borrow it. Since I already had loader all I had to add was diverter for thumb and of course hydraulic hoses, and I cannot thank this forum enough for all their help they gave me on this forum.

 

[sallyb]

I've decided to start a small garden. I borrowed a tiller from my uncle, and HOLY COW that is an awesome attachment! Might have to pick one up some day! Unfortunately they're expensive . My plan was to just tear it up with a middle buster and use my walk behind cultivator to till and mix it up, but this made quick work of it from start to finish, did a much better job, and was EASY!View attachment 693226View attachment 693227View attachment 693228View attachment 693229

I bought the lowest priced 3point I could find ,I garden about 1 acre to 2 acres, Northern Tool had one Direct Drive $900 now there was a problem with direct drive ,kept tearing up pto drive, theirs is 8 spline to tractor side is 6 spline, I even broke pto shaft inside tractor, could not afford the damage, so I decided to take gear apart took it to machine shop had splines rounded off tiller spline,had them drill a hole so I could use shear bolt and a common pto shaft with 6 spline to tractor and round to tiller shaft, solved the problem. The tiller you are using is gear driven, they are the best I have a gear driven but it needs top gear box, I think I can get one from RuralKing for about $500 or $550 of course I will need to modify to make it work, but I think it would be worth my time and money.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I ran my main line from the road to our pool house (130') with a shovel.

For the rest of the irrigation I have bought a stand alone trencher. Should make that much easier.

Edit- DOH! Nevermind

 

[SmallChange]

Very fun thread.

Consider a physically small but heavy counterweight. I bought a ballast box, put some large steel scraps in the bottom, and then filled it with concrete. I poured self-leveling concrete as the last layer, and once it was cured and stable, I poured Flex-Seal rubber into it, so if it gets left out in the rain the water won't get stuck in there and rust it out. It's an even 800 lbs and makes a big difference on rear traction, especially with the FEL loaded. If you have tight quarters, as I have, a small ballast is much more tolerable than something big like a box blade.

Also -- I haven't heard this suggestion anywhere -- buy a pallet, maybe a nice clean plastic one. I'm planning to do this. I find my station wagon can just clear a standard 40" wide one. With one of these I could put the pallet in the back, load up heavy stuff such as concrete bags at the local store (or get them to load it), and then pull it out with pallet forks on the FEL. I think I can wind up with a pallet load of concrete sacks wherever I want it, maybe even at chest level, with zero wear and tear on my poor old back.