Do I need a general contractor to build a house?

[Steppenwolfe]

DC area actually,,,

OK... Fairfax Co and Prince George are two of the worst to work with imo, Anne Arundel isn't bad, and Montgomery Co is excellent. DC is fine once you get out of permitting.

 

[Sberry]

Why would i need subs? Ha

 

[Handloader109]

Daughter just finished her home next to ours. 50% over budget and 2 or so months longer than we anticipated. In our local, every one building is very good busy. If you di not have ties to subs, you can most probably forget being your own contractor. No one will call you back, or if they do, they are sub par workers as they can't get real work. It took our contractor pulling as many strings as he could to get the job done. Supplies are twice as long or longer to get, 16 weeks on windows, 9 weeks on counter tops. Neighbor is now 5 weeks plus waiting on siding on his build and he is a recent gc retiree. Even concrete was 3 weeks out.
Just contract it out, and get to know him. You won't save money doing it your self now. It ain't 1995.... Oh, I did all interior work on my home in 1991.....

 

[MasseyFerg231]

One other item to mention. If you are going to be your own GC make sure you know the defined scopes of each trades work. For examples:
- where we work in PA, the excavation contractor does the excavation for the footing contractor. In Indiana, our concrete sub does all of their excavation.
-caulking- who does the caulking of trim, the painter or the carpenter? I’ve bought it both ways depending on the geographical region.

 

[mgstevens]

I see one post noting that you can't add trusses to a roof stamped by an engineer. Uh, no, because the engineer stamp is tied to the exact structure covered under the stamp, which is under the engineers errors and omissions insurance should it fail, and is what the building dept. is relying on when there is a deviation from the building code. That's why you can't change it one single bit.

Also:

Believe me; when something went south I almost always heard from the county council members in whose district the problem occurred. Political pressure usually greases the wheels

Man, this one floored me. Here in BC - actually I think across Canada, there just isn't political interference in the professional (regulation) side of civil services. A politician trying to push a professional-in-govt-service would be boiled in oil around here, especially on a professional standard like building code. Just isn't done. Even at the national level, we had a PM (prime minister) who tried to muzzle govt scientists. The hue and cry was incredible, bought him a trip to the golf course at the next election. Can't imagine how your society can work credibly like that?

 

[dstig1]

One other item to mention. If you are going to be your own GC make sure you know the defined scopes of each trades work. For examples:
- where we work in PA, the excavation contractor does the excavation for the footing contractor. In Indiana, our concrete sub does all of their excavation.
-caulking- who does the caulking of trim, the painter or the carpenter? I’ve bought it both ways depending on the geographical region.

This is a very good point. One story from my build is on the HVAC. I had gotten a quote from one place to do a ground source heat pump while I was still thinking through things. That was early on, well before we started. A bit later I found out one of my co-workers was a former HVAC tech who was fully able and willing to install ductwork and a furnace and AC for me. He put in all sheet metal ductwork, with the only flex ducts being where you needed the ability to move it around a bit (like a vent in a suspended ceiling panel). He told me that the outfit I got a quote from would have run flex duct for everything from the furnace main duct as he had worked for them briefly. I was quite shocked that this was never mentioned as ductwork = sheet metal in my head. I have never seen or heard of anyone pulling flex duct for an entire house as it is horrible practice. But it sure it faster and cheaper than sheet metal!

But without a detailed quote specification in hand they just did what they would normally do without giving it a thought. Had they started and I saw flex duct I would have been in a pickle as it is a shoddy way to run duct but i would have felt stuck at that point. I consider this a good example of not knowing to ask the right questions. I got lucky on this one.

 

[mgstevens]

When I did my own plans for my workshop in 2011, I had my mentor architect still working with me. When it came to the house in 2014, he had retired and I was on my own. To make sure I did not run afoul of the local inspector, I went in to the building dept with my rough plans and got my inspector's boss to work with me on the structural span tables and other items that were crucial to the building and would be of particular note to the inspector.

I did this b/c my particular inspector (one of 3 or 4 for the area) was known to be a demanding jerk. I noticed on my first building that he really needed to be right - about something. I realized that if he wasn't allowed to be "right" about something, he would niggle until he was. So, on each stage after the second one (and when the point finally registered..) I made sure to leave one thing on each round a little sloppy. When he caught it, I thanked him for saving me. He was calmed and I was free to proceed.

When it came to the house, the structure was more complex and the systems were more intricate. I knew if I didn't get a hedge against his need to be right, it would be a nightmare. So, by having his boss guide me in all the critical structure elements, and in the process, overlook all the drawings, I could refer to that review process to defect any excess niggling. In fact, when his boss realized what my game was, he made a point to bring the inspector in for two of our sessions and make sure he knew I was not trying to be a "cowboy."

It worked in more than one instance, when the inspector would question why I did this or that, I could refer to the fact that is was either him or his boss, or both, who reviewed that choice in the planning stage and directed me to do it that way. He couldn't argue with that. He tried, but had to give in to the fact. Also, with my building permit costing thousands of dollars, once I learned I could go in for advice and review, I really got my money's worth from that permit fee.

 

[fishdrivel]

I am recently retired. I have done my own repairs or upgrades in regards to electrical and plumbing over the years.
I can do basic carpentry and have the tools to build anything.
I have project management experience in the manufacturing world.

I recently bought an IRC 0016 book online to review and have house drawings approved with an architect's stamp.

My son recently had a house built and says that he became his own contractor as he went there daily to see the work and got up to speed by asking the builders questions. I know contractors manage more than just overseeing the work but I am wondering if it's necessary.

I know enough about carpentry, electricity, and plumbing but I don't feel I know enough about footers, foundation, and waterproofing (basement) to do this on my own.
The foundation scares me a bit. i know a big box company has a reputation for cutting corners but I don't know the details. I am considering hiring a qualified contractor to oversee this up to the point where the concrete is all poured and is ready for framing.

I can afford it but I will also be twiddling my thumbs watching others do the work if I hire this out.

Hoping others here can give some advice.

As a contractor in California, One of my clients was a "Owner builder Center"
They would "teach" usually very successful clients how to build their own home.
This was not to save a few thousand bucks. We were talking about multi-million dollar dream homes.
They did save money - never as much as expected.
As a landscape contractor, I was one of the last subs to work with the client. They often said some of the same things!
1) "it's a lot of work"
2) "if it wasn't for those 2 or 3 bad subs!"
3) my decision making at the end was like, "just get it done!"

It is always a lot of work, there are always 2 subs that got on the bottle or got a divorce or whatever - and you never know who it will be. You will have personality issues with your subs.
You are an owner and it will be hard to distinguish between "acceptable" and "that's good enough"
You won't have a builder to blame for your bad decisions. Are you married?
The level of quality of contractors in North Carolina is questionable. Do you have the knowledge to tell if you are getting correct answers to your questions?
Do you have the contracting experience to know when you can throw a non-performing sub off the job?
Do you know how to prevent getting a surprise bill for materials after you have paid your sub in full?
These questions are the tip of the iceberg.

 

[fishdrivel]

I see one post noting that you can't add trusses to a roof stamped by an engineer. Uh, no, because the engineer stamp is tied to the exact structure covered under the stamp, which is under the engineers errors and omissions insurance should it fail, and is what the building dept. is relying on when there is a deviation from the building code. That's why you can't change it one single bit.

Also:


Man, this one floored me. Here in BC - actually I think across Canada, there just isn't political interference in the professional (regulation) side of civil services. A politician trying to push a professional-in-govt-service would be boiled in oil around here, especially on a professional standard like building code. Just isn't done. Even at the national level, we had a PM (prime minister) who tried to muzzle govt scientists. The hue and cry was incredible, bought him a trip to the golf course at the next election. Can't imagine how your society can work credibly like that?

In California it does not!

 

[PILOON]

On 2 of the houses I built I did all the electrical myself.
Actually also a 3rd that a jealous electrician sicked the inspectors on us, LOL it passed with flying colors.

Mine was signed off by our mayor who was also a friend.
The other signed off by the home owner as he was an electrical engineer.

OK, I was aviation certified in electrics and avionics so not lost with codes and techniques.
My junction boxes don't look like a tangled mess either, everything is neatly tied and U can actually follow wires.
Also I generally over killed, like 12 circuits in kitchen and all # 12 g wire, why not, only pennies more (back then).
Everything tagged or labeled etc. and generator switching panels properly wired etc.
AND, my ground rods are FULLY driven in, all 9 ft! (a Kango sure helped there)

The term "under supervision" by a qualified person is the key to lots of 'DIY'.

 

[Fxfymn413]

My junction boxes don't look like a tangled mess either,

I once had an inspector look at a panel I had done and he immediately said "An electrician did not do this." and I thought "Oh, s...." before he followed up with "This is too neat."

Man, this one floored me. Here in BC - actually I think across Canada, there just isn't political interference in the professional (regulation) side of civil services.

Where I worked it was just part of the job as it was for every building official I knew. In actuality I never really minded since they were just trying to look out for their constituents and they never pressed me to violate the codes. Most often the developer didn't give them the full story and when it was explained to them the issue evaporated. In those rare cases where we screwed the pooch I was glad find out about it and we fixed the issue.

What most folks don't realize is the code enforcement folks are also a part of the economic development process for the community they serve. My job was to get it built right, not to stop it. A good code person knows that and does their best to foster the growth of the community while keeping it safe. Dealing with complaints is just part of that.

 

[EddieWalker]

... He put in all sheet metal ductwork, with the only flex ducts being where you needed the ability to move it around a bit (like a vent in a suspended ceiling panel). He told me that the outfit I got a quote from would have run flex duct for everything from the furnace main duct as he had worked for them briefly. I was quite shocked that this was never mentioned as ductwork = sheet metal in my head. I have never seen or heard of anyone pulling flex duct for an entire house as it is horrible practice. But it sure it faster and cheaper than sheet metal!
...

I'm no HVAC expert, but this really surprised me. Here in my part of the world, East Texas, flex duct is all that's used in homes. From what I understand, it's like running PEX. You avoid having any leaks because you run the lines from point to point. In older homes with metal ducts, I find all sorts of leaks in them where the metal comes together and the sealant has cracked. People remove metal ducting and replace it with flex ducting.

On another point about HVAC units, be sure to have a solid plan on where you want the unit. Most new construction likes to put it in the attic. This has a lot of advantages for distributing the air, but it's horrible at maintaining the unit. Especially if the filters are in the attic!!! But the other issue that I have with units in the attic is being able to see if there is any water in the pan, and putting bleach in the drain lines every month. I get a lot of work repairing sheetrock in the ceilings of homes from units that had their primary drain lines plug up from not adding bleach to them, and the pan overflowing with water.

On my house, and when I built my parents house, I made sure that the HVAC unit was accessible. I have a utility room on my house with my water heater and electrical panel in there. For my parents house, I put it in their garage with their water heater next to it and the manifold for their PEX next to that.

I change my filters twice a month. I upgraded to 2 inch thick filters because I have 6 Akita's inside my house, and hair is an issue!! My parents change their filter once a month. We always add a shot of bleach to the drain lines when we change filters. Having the filters and bleach next to the units make it easy to maintain them. It also ensures that we look at the unit regularly to make sure there isn't any water anywhere.

 

[PILOON]

As earlier mentioned I DIY'd plans and built a few homes w/o any licensees at all.

Later I drew up plans and specs for a small storage building and they were approved within the week.

The owner who operated the storage facility would wait months for approvals, and that for exact same structures that were previously approved but just about 30 (or so) feet apart.

He had 10 such exact same structures and literally 9 major issues with each one.
Ranged from questioning engineers qualifications to having a local engineer re certify each structure adding soil analysis, surface drainage analysis etc, you name the obstetrical, they'd find one.

The inspector that was the problem was unionized and the first to be hired, the typical work to rule and not my job kind.
Basically now elevated to the highest level of incompetency.

I once observed him (leading his crew of inspectors) standing at the front door, key in hand while looking at his watch as he did not want to enter the offices a second ahead of start time.
He's such a known problem that he is no longer allowed to interface with the public but protected by his union.

 

[JDZ735M]

I once observed him (leading his crew of inspectors) standing at the front door, key in hand while looking at his watch as he did not want to enter the offices a second ahead of start time.
He's such a known problem that he is no longer allowed to interface with the public but protected by his union.

There should be a way to get a problem like that removed from the public payroll. I know, there are a lot like that.

 

[PILOON]

There should be a way to get a problem like that removed from the public payroll. I know, there are a lot like that.

We here all know that but he is unionized!
Enough said!
Union for line workers = OK, but salaried staff? under contracts?
He was/is a local hired by locals to promote local.
Enough said, can't be changed now however he'll soon retire I'm sure.
I am in a unique position that I sort of know his think process as I had to work alongside/with him some years ago.
Main comment is 'very narrow minded' and no team player.

At one time the mayor asked him (remember he is salaried) to attend counsel meetings so that we'd get rapid answers to questions/situations.
Well he did but billed the city for overtime (he's salaried) !
Later he charged the city for excessive car usage claiming that his car suffered from excessive depreciation all while he claimed the official gov't mileage fees.
Remember we are rural, no long distance.
No he's simply a POS taking every advantage he can.

Problem he keeps his nose clean, nothing to cause him being fired.

 

[dstig1]

I'm no HVAC expert, but this really surprised me. Here in my part of the world, East Texas, flex duct is all that's used in homes. From what I understand, it's like running PEX. You avoid having any leaks because you run the lines from point to point. In older homes with metal ducts, I find all sorts of leaks in them where the metal comes together and the sealant has cracked. People remove metal ducting and replace it with flex ducting.

On another point about HVAC units, be sure to have a solid plan on where you want the unit. Most new construction likes to put it in the attic. This has a lot of advantages for distributing the air, but it's horrible at maintaining the unit. Especially if the filters are in the attic!!! But the other issue that I have with units in the attic is being able to see if there is any water in the pan, and putting bleach in the drain lines every month. I get a lot of work repairing sheetrock in the ceilings of homes from units that had their primary drain lines plug up from not adding bleach to them, and the pan overflowing with water.

On my house, and when I built my parents house, I made sure that the HVAC unit was accessible. I have a utility room on my house with my water heater and electrical panel in there. For my parents house, I put it in their garage with their water heater next to it and the manifold for their PEX next to that.

I change my filters twice a month. I upgraded to 2 inch thick filters because I have 6 Akita's inside my house, and hair is an issue!! My parents change their filter once a month. We always add a shot of bleach to the drain lines when we change filters. Having the filters and bleach next to the units make it easy to maintain them. It also ensures that we look at the unit regularly to make sure there isn't any water anywhere.

Flex duct has insane pressure drop as all the ribs create tons of drag. That's why it is so bad. You lose lots of flow or need to upsize blowers to compensate. Properly sealed metal ductwork is far better. And if it is sealed right, it will stay sealed. PEX is great for plumbing. Flex duct is horrible for handling air. But it is fast, cheap and easy! Around here seeing someone pulling flex for all HVAC means they are a low-baller and doing shoddy work. Amazing how different the regions can be, isn't it?

But here again you also see a major regional difference. Pretty much nobody here puts an air handler in the attic or any other unconditioned space. Most house here have full height basements, at least under a part of the house. You have to go down 4' for frost footings so going another 4' for a full basement is trivial and allows you more usable space. And that is where the HVAC units are put. Any new construction will have that basemeent as conditioned space. Very old houses can be an exception but are often "sorta" conditioned as they will pump some heat in there to make it half decent.

What is normal in one region is bad in another... Amazing how many of these we run into, isn't it Eddie?

 

[EddieWalker]

Yes, it's amazing how different things are done in different areas of the country. When I insisted that the HVAC system was installed in the utility closet, I was told by several HVAC contractors that it wasn't possible because nobody could create a metal duct to go from ground level to ducts in the attic.

While I don't agree that you are correct on your comments on ducts, I do agree that what is done around the country varries significantly on those unique areas.

 

[dstig1]

The pressure drop of flex duct vs smooth sheet metal is well documented, not an opinion. Basic fluid dynamics. The rest is those regional differences. You should have seen the look of disgust on my HVAC guy's face when he said "those guys would have used all flex duct!" Of course I am making the same face when your HVAC guy said "nobody can make a duct to get from the closet to the attic". Ummm, that's the job, sonny. You bang the tin until it takes the shape you want... If you couldn't do that around here, you couldn't be in HVAC installation.

But if nobody does that in your market, then that is the answer you would get. I know my guy well as I work with him and I know the dumbfounded look he would give me if I asked "if he could do it." It would probably be accompanied by the phase "does a bear **** in the woods?" or similar. "Well duh."

 

[buckeyefarmer]

The pressure drop of flex duct vs smooth sheet metal is well documented, not an opinion. Basic fluid dynamics. The rest is those regional differences. You should have seen the look of disgust on my HVAC guy's face when he said "those guys would have used all flex duct!" Of course I am making the same face when your HVAC guy said "nobody can make a duct to get from the closet to the attic". Ummm, that's the job, sonny. You bang the tin until it takes the shape you want... If you couldn't do that around here, you couldn't be in HVAC installation.

But if nobody does that in your market, then that is the answer you would get. I know my guy well as I work with him and I know the dumbfounded look he would give me if I asked "if he could do it." It would probably be accompanied by the phase "does a bear **** in the woods?" or similar. "Well duh."

My thoughts exactly. Even I can get metal ductwork up to the next level, it’s not difficult. I hate the flex stuff. The guy who did my house used it in the attic off the main duct, all the rest is hard duct.

 

[EddieWalker]

To be clear, I should have said it was very hard to find an HVC contractor that would create the metal duct to go from the closet to the attic. In the end, I found several and went with the bid from the contractor that did the big commercial jobs in my area, including the airport. I believe that they did a good job making it, and that they did a good job of sealing it. But I was in a house last week out at the lake that is considered very high dollar, and it has both metal and flex ducts in it's attic. Guess which ones where keeping me cool while I was up there?

To say that metal is better because it flows better ignores the simple fact that metal ducts leak and flex ducts don't. While you might have your ducts sealed good enough to never leak anytime in the future, odds are very good that if you look at ten other systems with metal ducting, 9 of them will have leaks. In my opinion, best practice is to use what will offer the best chances of success over the longest period of time.