Homemade 2 shank subsoiler

[ptsg]

I'm starting a new build project. This time I'm building a two shank subsoiler to loosen up some very hard and compact clay so I can then use the tiller without beating it to death.

As with many of my projects, I'm building it mostly out of what I already have in hand, so some design choices may not make much sense for some. Specially with the current prices on not only steel but just about everything.

While 3 shanks would be ideal, I'm sticking with 2 shanks because that's all the material I have. Shanks will be built out of 1 1/4" plate and should have a working depth of 21", although I'm not sure I'll be able to go that deep in this clay.

Now, I'm looking for some insight from anyone that has used a subsoiler before. I'm not sure on the spacing between the shanks. My tractor has 44" track with. I'm not sure whether I put the shanks in line with the rear tires or slightly narrower. So if anyone as any insight on that, I would be very thankful.

Anyways, here is the beginning of the project. Somewhere in that plate, there are two subsoiler shanks and some quality time with the 7" angle grinder.

 

[oldnslo]

I realize you probably don’t have enough steel but a parabolic shaped shank will lift and shatter the soil better than the shape you have drawn. Either will take some power going deep. I believe allow around 40 - 50 HP per shank and you will need heavy tractor to tie the power to the ground.

Seems like standard spacing on most subsoilers is 30” but that may be based on corn rows being 30” centers.

 

[ptsg]

I'll be angling the entire shank slightly forward, around 15 degrees or so. I would expect that to help a little bit instead of a straight shank plowing through.

 

[K5lwq]

Looking forward to seeing the results. I can’t remember exactly what ours were on the farm but I would be somewhere around 30 to 36 inch spacing. Pulling a subsoiler takes some power and doubt 3 shanks would be manageable with the size tractors we are running. Glad you are sticking with 2.

 

[ptsg]

Looking forward to seeing the results. I can’t remember exactly what ours were on the farm but I would be somewhere around 30 to 36 inch spacing. Pulling a subsoiler takes some power and doubt 3 shanks would be manageable with the size tractors we are running. Glad you are sticking with 2.

At first I was thinking I would use a wider spacing but based on the feedback here, I'm now shooting for around 32". This should put the shank right at the inside edge of the tractor.

I agree 3 would probably be too much. Even 2 might be, at least at full depth. We will see. I don't mind doing two passes if needed, then offset half of the spacing and repeat.

I should've have added that my shanks will be welded in place, so I won't be able to adjust the spacing like most units sold.

 

[K5lwq]

At first I was thinking I would use a wider spacing but based on the feedback here, I'm now shooting for around 32". This should put the shank right at the inside edge of the tractor.

I agree 3 would probably be too much. Even 2 might be, at least at full depth. We will see. I don't mind doing two passes if needed, then offset half of the spacing and repeat.

I should've have added that my shanks will be welded in place, so I won't be able to adjust the spacing like most units sold.

I like that plan. That would make it easier to line up for a second pass in the hard stuff.

 

[workinonit]

Are you subsoiling this to plant on top of the subsoiler furrows? If so what are you planting with? That spacing will determine the spacing of your contraption.

 

[Doorman63]

I’d consider purchasing a Milwaukee porta-band and some of their thick steel blades. A grinder with cutoff wheels is gonna be messy!!

The band saw may not cut all of it.
A 5ish inch capacity is what they have. I’ve made relief cuts every 4-5” and ripped 12” plate to about 4”.

 

[ptsg]

Are you subsoiling this to plant on top of the subsoiler furrows? If so what are you planting with? That spacing will determine the spacing of your contraption.

Won't be planting. This will be used to loosen up the soil on the olive tree plantation. Then run the tiller after.

I will be use it the same way for a small plot for all kinds of vegetables. This year I only used the tiller which left a very hard layer at max tiller depth.

 

[ptsg]

I’d consider purchasing a Milwaukee porta-band and some of their thick steel blades. A grinder with cutoff wheels is gonna be messy!!

The band saw may not cut all of it.
A 5ish inch capacity is what they have. I’ve made relief cuts every 4-5” and ripped 12” plate to about 4”.

So far I have one shank cut with only one 7" cutting disc. I expect another disc for the bigger cuts on the other shank and for the small pieces, I think I can take care of those on my old power hacksaw.

 

[Doorman63]

I’ve got a single shank Subsoiler.
Ripped up some ground for a strawberry patch. I did increasing depth passes with my L2501. Neighbor tilled it, I did another pass after that, he tilled again a week later. Probably did 3-4 passes inside the tiller width in each direction. The ground heaved a good 4”!

 

[AnotherBueller]

So far I have one shank cut with only one 7" cutting disc. I expect another disc for the bigger cuts on the other shank and for the small pieces, I think I can take care of those on my old power hacksaw.

You need a plasma cutter. If you can afford it. My lord they're fast. Need to use a template for smooth results, if you do hardly need to use a grinder.

 

[ptsg]

You need a plasma cutter. If you can afford it. My lord they're fast. Need to use a template for smooth results, if you do hardly need to use a grinder.

I have one of those cheap (<€150) ones. It saved me so much time and allowed for a much nicer shapes on my homemade loader but it's only good up to 10 mm or so.

I would like one of those serious 3 phase units but that's way out of my budget.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I'm starting a new build project. This time I'm building a two shank subsoiler to loosen up some very hard and compact clay so I can then use the tiller without beating it to death.

As with many of my projects, I'm building it mostly out of what I already have in hand, so some design choices may not make much sense for some. Specially with the current prices on not only steel but just about everything.

While 3 shanks would be ideal, I'm sticking with 2 shanks because that's all the material I have. Shanks will be built out of 1 1/4" plate and should have a working depth of 21", although I'm not sure I'll be able to go that deep in this clay.

Now, I'm looking for some insight from anyone that has used a subsoiler before. I'm not sure on the spacing between the shanks. My tractor has 44" track with. I'm not sure whether I put the shanks in line with the rear tires or slightly narrower. So if anyone as any insight on that, I would be very thankful.

Anyways, here is the beginning of the project. Somewhere in that plate, there are two subsoiler shanks and some quality time with the 7" angle grinder.

View attachment 803311

I doubt you can pull one, much less two in clay. 3/4 thickness is plenty for up to 100 HP. We have big tractors and they are pawing and clawing with a sub soiler sunk 2' in clay, just one shank.

 

[ptsg]

I doubt you can pull one, much less two in clay. 3/4 thickness is plenty for up to 100 HP. We have big tractors and they are pawing and clawing with a sub soiler sunk 2' in clay, just one shank.

We will see what it does. I really don't mine doing multiple passes if needed. To be honest, I don't even need full depth. I'm mostly maximizing the use of the plate I have, but I'll for sure try full depth.

Here is a Mitsubishi MT36, same HP, size, just slightly lighter than mine pulling a single shank full depth. 20 to 21" deep.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

We will see what it does. I really don't mine doing multiple passes if needed. To be honest, I don't even need full depth. I'm mostly maximizing the use of the plate I have, but I'll for sure try full depth.

Here is a Mitsubishi MT36, same HP, size, just slightly lighter than mine pulling a single shank full depth. 20 to 21" deep.

Other thing, go slowly. When you pull up on it just a little, it'll give more traction to your tires, ease it back down. Maybe pull it up an inch going slow. Are you putting a hard foot on it? You could put a piece of blade on bottom for a foot. Old trackhoe or backhoe tooth. Need something at bottom kinda angled down so it will dig in initially. Nothing nicer than a plow that skips along on top of the ground.

 

[ptsg]

Other thing, go slowly. When you pull up on it just a little, it'll give more traction to your tires, ease it back down. Maybe pull it up an inch going slow. Are you putting a hard foot on it? You could put a piece of blade on bottom for a foot. Old trackhoe or backhoe tooth. Need something at bottom kinda angled down so it will dig in initially. Nothing nicer than a plow that skips along on top of the ground.

Thanks for the tips. Yes I'll go slow, specially considering I've found some big boulders when I dug the entrance ramp for this piece of land.

I want to put something on the tip of the shanks, yes. I was thinking getting the points from a cultivator, probably weld it in place in a way that makes it easier to remove.

Something like this, unless I find a good source a bucket teeth. That's probably the strongest.

 

[AnotherBueller]

I have one of those cheap (<€150) ones. It saved me so much time and allowed for a much nicer shapes on my homemade loader but it's only good up to 10 mm or so.

I would like one of those serious 3 phase units but that's way out of my budget.

I bought a PP51 a 50A unit from Mark at Everlast. They're an advertiser here.
Got mine on their black friday sale for <$600. Great service and the welder and cutter really work.
"You can call me any time at (877) 755-WELD (9353) ext 204 or by e-mail at performance@everlastwelders.com."

 

[ptsg]

Made a little bit more progress today.

Got both shanks cut from that plate showed before, cut the remaining bits on the power hacksaw. Cleaned the edges a little bit and it's ready to weld on the frame.

Also machined both lower pins and got the A frame for the top link ready as well. The A frame came from my tiller, as I was using it ever since I converted the tiller to hydraulic side shift.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Thanks for the tips. Yes I'll go slow, specially considering I've found some big boulders when I dug the entrance ramp for this piece of land.

I want to put something on the tip of the shanks, yes. I was thinking getting the points from a cultivator, probably weld it in place in a way that makes it easier to remove.

Something like this, unless I find a good source a bucket teeth. That's probably the strongest.

View attachment 803491

That'll work. Angle the tip down just a little so it will dig. Maybe no more than ten degrees. You can always cut it loose and turn it around later.