Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings

[ponytug]

The 53' semi trailer can't make it up my driveway. So I was think of unloading on the street and placing the 48' beam on the 18' long trailer (see pic). Of course that means 30' will hang off the trailer but if we strap down the beam to the trailer, I don't see an issue going 10mph up the driveway.

View attachment 801100

Any curves or large changes in grade in the driveway?

I agree with @Doorman63 if you can raise the beam to clear the bed of the truck, it can make navigating turns and changes of incline easier. A friend crush the wall on his truck bed trying to make a corner with a large change of grade and the event stuck with me...

All the best,

Peter

 

[Pettrix]

Did the wall pour the other day. 28 yards of concrete. 4,000 psi mix with 3/8". Did 3 lifts.

 

[JJT]

Looks good, keep up the good work!

 

[Pettrix]

Got the roof on and looking at garage doors.

18 X 8 Raynor Aspen AP 200c. Double sided steel, polyurethane insulated (R-value of 18) residential garage door. $3,300 per door

18 x 8 1st United Door Technologies 225 insulated (R-Value of 6) garage door. Includes nylon rollers for quiet operation. $2,200 per door

They also want $1,400 more per door ($2,800) for a track system that will follow the pitch of the roof. Seems pricey but they claim it requires specialized springs and tracks.

The better insulated doors would be nice but they are $900 more per door. The pitched track system would be nice as it would not interfere with a car lift, otherwise if a car was on the lift and one opened the garage door, the door could hit the car lift.

Not sure which route to go...

 

[Doorman63]

Got the roof on and looking at garage doors.

View attachment 811790

View attachment 811791

18 X 8 Raynor Aspen AP 200c. Double sided steel, polyurethane insulated (R-value of 18) residential garage door. $3,300 per door

18 x 8 1st United Door Technologies 225 insulated (R-Value of 6) garage door. Includes nylon rollers for quiet operation. $2,200 per door

They also want $1,400 more per door ($2,800) for a track system that will follow the pitch of the roof. Seems pricey but they claim it requires specialized springs and tracks.

The better insulated doors would be nice but they are $900 more per door. The pitched track system would be nice as it would not interfere with a car lift, otherwise if a car was on the lift and one opened the garage door, the door could hit the car lift.

Not sure which route to go...

“Follow the roof pitch” 2/12 4/12 etc is more expensive. Different springs/drums/horizontal tracks and cables. Trolley operators most likely as well.

Raynor is top of the line in my opinion.

For a bit cheaper options check out Wayne Daltons TS 125 or 150 lines of doors. They are ribbed on the exterior and an excellent r-value.

CHI makes a good door as well…..not sure which line is comparable.

My wife picked out a CHI door for our barn. 10x8 with 16” high lift, fancy carriage house design, insulated glass, etc…….close to 4k with opener.

 

[Pettrix]

Not sure I can get those other doors you mentioned since I am located in Arizona. Raynor is the best (R-18) and a solid built door but the price tag is hefty.

Garage is insulated but how much difference does a R-6 vs R-18 garage door make? I don't think it's 3x the efficiency as there are other factors at play.

 

[Doorman63]

Not sure I can get those other doors you mentioned since I am located in Arizona. Raynor is the best (R-18) and a solid built door but the price tag is hefty.

Garage is insulated but how much difference does a R-6 vs R-18 garage door make? I don't think it's 3x the efficiency as there are other factors at play.

R value of garage doors only comes into play when the door is closed…….a man’s “shop” usually has the door open!



The specs on ours calls out an r-value of about 10. Perimeter weatherseal ,windows, thermal break between inner and outer skins all contribute to insulation value.

My opinion…..it only really matters when I’m in the shop trying to heat/cool the space. In the Midwest we don’t typically cool a shop and mid 50s is plenty warm to work in the winter. The rest of the time I’m not climate controlling it.

 

[ponytug]

@Pettrix Looking great!

If it were me, I would pass on the insulation, but go for the slope following door track though they are, I think, understandably more expensive. (A slope following door spring has to hold the door up at all times, in contrast to a normal door, and it has to have different spring strengths for the vertical lift and the angled lift, if that makes sense.)

All the best,

Peter

 

[Doorman63]

@Pettrix Looking great!

If it were me, I would pass on the insulation, but go for the slope following door track though they are, I think, understandably more expensive. (A slope following door spring has to hold the door up at all times, in contrast to a normal door, and it has to have different spring strengths for the vertical lift and the angled lift, if that makes sense.)

All the best,

Peter

Well said sir.

I recently converted a job from 2/12 pitch to 6/12 pitch.

All new springs/cables/drums and horizontal tracks (with the 6/12 pre bent at the radius).

The door can still be manually operated when the opener is disconnected…..14’x14’

 

[Pettrix]

Okay, so I will go with the lower priced door (R-6) and go with the pitch of the roof tracking system. So for two 18x8 steel insulated doors, tracking system, springs, one reinforcement strut per panel, continuous angle following the 5:12 pitch, install labor, will be $7,900

I'll get the wall mounted controllers later but they said I could open/close the door manually until I get the garage door remotes.

The pricing of materials today is staggering. With inflation and price gouging, it's a tough pill to swallow.

 

[Doorman63]

Liftmaster 8500 series openers can be bought on Amazon for around $400. Easy to install for a diy person.

Make sure your quote includes perimeter weatherseal on the jambs/header as well.


You could go uninsulated pan doors and insulate them yourself at a later time. You won’t have the steel interior face going this route.

That’d free up some $$ for windows in the top sections. Hard to add window sections later

 

[Pettrix]

I was able to find a different installer who will do it for $2k less, so around $5,900 for labor and doors.

Going with the "follow the pitch" 5:12 track install. I still have to install the 2x6 boards onto the ICF concrete wall. I will use Tapcons but my question is on the center board, since it will be seeing a lot of stress from that spring. Should I use TWO 3/8" Tapcons anchored into the concrete or TWO 1/2" Tapcons, to hold that 2x6 board onto the ICF wall?

 

[Doorman63]

Pre drill the board

In the picture it looks like the foam has been plowed out?

3/8 are fine
I like to see 2” into the concrete.
Use 4 total-one at each corner

You can also use wedge style anchors
3/8 should be more than enough as well

 

[Pettrix]

Pre drill the board

In the picture it looks like the foam has been plowed out?

3/8 are fine
I like to see 2” into the concrete.
Use 4 total-one at each corner

You can also use wedge style anchors
3/8 should be more than enough as well

That pic was just an example. Current garage doesn't have the boards in place yet and ICF foam still in place. I got a 6" long Tapcon screw so it will have 2" penetration into the concrete. Foam = 2.50" + Wood board 1.50" = 4.00" and that leaves me with 2" of concrete screw penetration into the 6" concrete wall.

I was planning on using TWO Tapcons to hold that board but you are saying use FOUR Tapcons ?

 

[bigtiller]

There is a lot of torque on the bottom side of that 2x.

I would go deeper than 2" and plenty of them, not just 2 or 4.

Also, I would swap out that 2x6 for a 2x10. That will give you more work area for screws to hold it down tight.

 

[Doorman63]

That pic was just an example. Current garage doesn't have the boards in place yet and ICF foam still in place. I got a 6" long Tapcon screw so it will have 2" penetration into the concrete. Foam = 2.50" + Wood board 1.50" = 4.00" and that leaves me with 2" of concrete screw penetration into the 6" concrete wall.

I was planning on using TWO Tapcons to hold that board but you are saying use FOUR Tapcons ?

How stiff is the foam?

I’m not a fan of any substrate that isn’t solid.
I’ve seen too many screw pops from fastening thru drywall.
I’ve also seen a door fall off the wall……

For a resi door…..

2x6x24” running vertical
Space the two holes top and bottom approx 2” up/down and 1” in from each edge


My 10x8 door opening with 16” of high lift

 

[ponytug]

I agree with @Doorman63 that cutting the foam out under the board will really help the strength of the attachment. There is all this torque at the end of that spring, and the fasteners holding it need something really solid to keep them from working themselves out.

I would really hate to have the spring end come loose. Have you considered a couple of inches of 3/4 or one inch plywood glued together rather than a two by?

All the best,

Peter

 

[Pettrix]

I agree with @Doorman63 that cutting the foam out under the board will really help the strength of the attachment. There is all this torque at the end of that spring, and the fasteners holding it need something really solid to keep them from working themselves out.

I would really hate to have the spring end come loose. Have you considered a couple of inches of 3/4 or one inch plywood glued together rather than a two by?

All the best,

Peter

The foam is very difficult to remove, it not impossible, as it has plastic ties every 8" oc that go through and through (inside to outside) and are encased in 6" of concrete. I can do the 2x10 for more surface area and run more Tapcons.

 

[Doorman63]

The foam is very difficult to remove, it not impossible, as it has plastic ties every 8" oc that go through and through (inside to outside) and are encased in 6" of concrete. I can do the 2x10 for more surface area and run more Tapcons.

What about plowing out top/bottom….laying some 2x4s horizontally and fastening the 2x6 to those?



Here’s a door mounted thru drywall with 1-5/8 lags…….not my install but I did get it back to “normal” looking alone in a couple hours.

I put 5/16x3” lags in every mounting point for this door and another one across the hallway……in a daycare facility.


Now you understand why I’m NOT a fan of mounting thru foam/drywall/etc.

 

[Pettrix]

I'll mount a 2x12 at the center location and then anchor it with numerous Tapcons into the concrete wall core.

The 12" wide wood surface area will provide a good load distribution point and the 3/8" Tapcons will provide excellent holding force