Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings

[Doorman63]

I'll mount a 2x12 at the center location and then anchor it with numerous Tapcons into the concrete wall core.

The 12" wide wood surface area will provide a good load distribution point and the 3/8" Tapcons will provide excellent holding force

2x12 is overkill honestly.

2x6 or 8 is perfect

I’ve seen 2x4……some hold up some don’t.

Is the foam stiff?
The torque of the springs isn’t static. Door open=minimal load/door closed=max. If the foam is “stiff” it may be fine. I’m not well versed in mounting thru foam.

 

[Pettrix]

2x12 is overkill honestly.

2x6 or 8 is perfect

I’ve seen 2x4……some hold up some don’t.

Is the foam stiff?
The torque of the springs isn’t static. Door open=minimal load/door closed=max. If the foam is “stiff” it may be fine. I’m not well versed in mounting thru foam.

Yes, the ICF is a solid form once concrete is inside the form. It's 2.50" of EPS, 6" of concrete and then 2.50" of EPS.

I'll do the 2x8 or maybe a 2x10

 

[LD1]

I'd still go with the front-mount (jackshaft) opener.

Honestly I have never seen a conventional opener with a garage door that follows the roof pitch. Is that even possible?

But on most doors over 8' tall.....the jackshaft openers tend to be cheaper. Because by the time you buy a conventional opener, then start buying extensions to get the door height you have.....the cost goes up.

I only install conventional openers on 7' and 8' doors.

And the jackshaft openers are easier and cleaner to install.

 

[Doorman63]

I'd still go with the front-mount (jackshaft) opener.

Honestly I have never seen a conventional opener with a garage door that follows the roof pitch. Is that even possible?

But on most doors over 8' tall.....the jackshaft openers tend to be cheaper. Because by the time you buy a conventional opener, then start buying extensions to get the door height you have.....the cost goes up.

I only install conventional openers on 7' and 8' doors.

And the jackshaft openers are easier and cleaner to install.

Roof pitch can be either opener style.
I’ve personally done both.
Side space/headroom/duty cycle will dictate which opener is best

 

[Pettrix]

2x12 is overkill honestly.

2x6 or 8 is perfect

I’ve seen 2x4……some hold up some don’t.

Is the foam stiff?
The torque of the springs isn’t static. Door open=minimal load/door closed=max. If the foam is “stiff” it may be fine. I’m not well versed in mounting thru foam.

The side 2x's can be just 2x6, right? They just hold the door tracking rails.

Funny how 2 companies, installing the same exact door, can differ on their bids by $2k. I understand they need to make money but profits vs gouging. After the pandemic, a lot of price gouging has been happening.

 

[Doorman63]

The side 2x's can be just 2x6, right? They just hold the door tracking rails.

Funny how 2 companies, installing the same exact door, can differ on their bids by $2k. I understand they need to make money but profits vs gouging. After the pandemic, a lot of price gouging has been happening.

2x6 will be good for the jambs.
Run them higher than the header “H” will be how they look.
Your installer should have a drawing that shows elevations. I usually go about 6” higher. Countersink your fasteners so they don’t interfere with the door or tracks.

 

[Doorman63]

2-18x8 doors with roof pitch and Liftmaster 8500 series openers should take 2 guys one day to install

 

[Pettrix]

I got the center 2x10 board installed. I used TWO 3/8" Tapcon bolts (6" long) that anchored into the 6" concrete core by about 2" deep. Then I ran THREE 3" long screws on the bottom which anchor into the treated board that is attached to the concrete wall.

Should I run another 3/8" Tapcon where the "X" is shown? That will make 3 total. I don't want to go below the "X" area as the wall rebar is heavy there with #5 bars and also I don't want to interfere with the spring attachment they will install.

 

[Pettrix]

Still have to install the top board over the door. Got the center and 2 side 2x6 boards.

 

[Doorman63]

View attachment 813610

Still have to install the top board over the door. Got the center and 2 side 2x6 boards.

You’re probably fine with the tapcons you have.
Most openings are framed with the header 2x6 first, then the spring pad sits on top of that.
A couple “toe screws” would attach the bottom of the spring pad to the top of the header.

 

[Pettrix]

You’re probably fine with the tapcons you have.
Most openings are framed with the header 2x6 first, then the spring pad sits on top of that.
A couple “toe screws” would attach the bottom of the spring pad to the top of the header.

With the ICF/concrete, it takes a different approach to install. I installed the center that 2x10 center board first since that is the piece that will take the most load with the spring pad. I wanted to anchor that into the concrete wall.

The rest of the 2x6 header area, doesn't really have any loads to it besides the weatherstripping so that can be installed with just screws into the treated door buck.

The vertical 2x6's will carry the tracks and wheels so that I installed into the treated wood buck with screws but also installed a 3/8" Tapcon on top to anchor it into the concrete. That vertical board is very sturdy and screwed down with numerous 3" screws into the wood buck.

 

[Pettrix]

Garage Doors Installed. The spring tension is pretty insane going up that 5:12 pitch

 

[ponytug]

Kind of explains why pitch following doors are so pricey, doesn't it?

The doors look great!

All the best, Peter

 

[Pettrix]

My 18x8 door is reinforced by 5 metal channels as seen in the photo. Last week we had winds hitting 40-45mph. I noticed the doors would kind of flex in the middle as the winds were blowing. Nothing was damaged but it kind of looked concerning. Door installer claims the doors are rated for 90mph with those channels. He said that most doors only get one or two channels and I have 5 which is why it has the 90mph rating.

I know they are not "hurricane rated" but is it normal for them to flex in high winds like that?

 

[Doorman63]

My 18x8 door is reinforced by 5 metal channels as seen in the photo. Last week we had winds hitting 40-45mph. I noticed the doors would kind of flex in the middle as the winds were blowing. Nothing was damaged but it kind of looked concerning. Door installer claims the doors are rated for 90mph with those channels. He said that most doors only get one or two channels and I have 5 which is why it has the 90mph rating.

I know they are not "hurricane rated" but is it normal for them to flex in high winds like that?


View attachment 826310

18’ doors are gonna “breathe” a bit bud.
The “struts” come in different sizes….3” tall 4” tall etc. I wonder which ones they used?

How well the tracks are attached to the jambs and the track gauge and rollers make the most difference with wind load.

 

[ponytug]

Short answer, yes some flex is normal, but how much is ok is a bit difficult to diagnosis from a distance. The horizontal metal rails are basically your "U" channels to resist inward pressure. The heavier they are the more resistance you have.

You can help your doors by not having open windows or doors on the opposite side. i.e. keeping the pressure up inside.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Pettrix]

18’ doors are gonna “breathe” a bit bud.
The “struts” come in different sizes….3” tall 4” tall etc. I wonder which ones they used?

How well the tracks are attached to the jambs and the track gauge and rollers make the most difference with wind load.

I measured and the channels are 2.25" tall

There are at least 7 anchor bolts holding each side of the track into the wood trim pieces which are anchored into the concrete wall.

 

[Pettrix]

Short answer, yes some flex is normal, but how much is ok is a bit difficult to diagnosis from a distance. The horizontal metal rails are basically your "U" channels to resist inward pressure. The heavier they are the more resistance you have.

You can help your doors by not having open windows or doors on the opposite side. i.e. keeping the pressure up inside.

All the best,

Peter

Interesting you should say that. When I opened the side entry door, the garage doors definitely started to flex more. Then when I closed the side door, the flex was notably less.

So the side door creates more pressure inside? I didn't know that but it does makes sense.

 

[ponytug]

Garage doors aren't airtight, but they do flex due to the pressure difference between the outside and the inside of the door. So, if the air leaking by the door gets trapped, even for a little while, it will help raise the pressure inside, and lower the pressure differential across the door. A small pressure difference adds up to a lot of force over a large area door.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Pettrix]

I installed a standing seam metal roof on my garage. Should the roof be grounded to help prevent issues if a lightning strike happens?