Longer bar for Stihl M261 - relative novice.

[Hay Dude]

This is the quote I received for a Stihl MS462 wrap handle.

1 - 20" bar with 2 extra chains
1 - 25" bar with 2 extra chains

I went ahead and asked about Carbide chains.... well... THAT won't be happening.

1 - 20" - $409.99 + tax
1 - 25" - $479.99 + tax

View attachment 3569431

Damn thats crazy expensive for that saw.
If you are going from a 261 to a 462, I’d look at a lightweight bar, so you can keep the weight down.
The power to weight ratio on that saw isn’t all that great, but better than 261C.

I guess it all depends on how much you want to spend, and how much weight you want to lug around…

 

[Jrasband]

The last thing I would want to do is lug around a heavy saw.

The 261 is heavy enough as is and powerful enough to easily take care of anything you would regularly throw at it, with a 20" bar on it as well. This is as long as you keep your chain sharp which is easy to do with a Stihl 4 n 1 tool.

 

[Canuckz]

Some great comments and information provided already by others in this thread but quick chime in.

261 -16"
362 - 20"
500i - 28"

This setup works for me as farmer clearing brush and the odd tree. I would not put a 20" on 261. 462 is a great saw and I have some Echo saws as well. Husqvarna and Echo both make nice saws too. I am not a saw snob. Find best price and dealer on any of these brands to support you.

 

[xyz123]

I ran a 462 and 500 back to back.

I would take the 462 for the 25" aka 24" under bars all day.

It's power to weight is actually great.

STIHL MS 462 72.2 4.4 5.9 6.0 13.2 0.73 at #2 on stihl new saws.

Those prices on carbide chain about double the cost of we pay here.

Your dealer must stick to high book retail on everything.

 

[Jrasband]

Some great comments and information provided already by others in this thread but quick chime in.

261 -16"
362 - 20"
500i - 28"

This setup works for me as farmer clearing brush and the odd tree. I would not put a 20" on 261. 462 is a great saw and I have some Echo saws as well. Husqvarna and Echo both make nice saws too. I am not a saw snob. Find best price and dealer on any of these brands to support you.

I am a grass farmer, my pastures are all edged with trees, 1/3 of my property is woods, and I heat my home exclusively with wood. I also do tree work on the side because I enjoy it so much.

My only saw is a 261 with a 20" bar. I swapped the 18" for a 20" years ago and never looked back. The only mod I have done to the saw is open up the muffler.

I usually swap my chain after 1 tank of fuel, if not than 2 tanks.

I find the 261 to be plenty adequate with a 20" bar.

 

[Canuckz]

One thing I've never failed to comprehend and that is, why people must buy a saw with a bar that is longer than the largest tree they plan on cutting down. Longest bar I run is 20". If the tree in question had a diameter bigger then 20", I split the cut. Not to say I don't own larger bars because I do, I just don't use them. My Stihl 090G carries a 4 1/2 foot bar and my 075 Stihl carries a 36" bar. Both are insanely heavy (saw and powerhead) and not at all comfortable to use. Bought them a long time ago when I owned and operated a tree removal business and they were only used for bucking trees on the ground, prior to hauling the logs away. They both sit on a shelf in the shop, devoid of fuel and oil, collecting dust today. I might sell them someday as they are both worth some serious jack.

99% of the time I use my Echo Top Handle Arborist saw and it has a 14" bar on it and it serves my needs just fine. It's light, easy to start and easy on fuel and it didn't break my wallet to buy either. Dropped some large trees with it in the past as well. It's my 'go to' saw because it's easy to operate. I do use my 520 Echo Timber bear as well as my 028 but I prefer the top handle over all of them. the 520 and the 28 both have 20" roller nose bars with greaseable noses.

Bigger is better may apply to some things but it don't apply to chainsaws, least in my opinion.

Agreed. I use my Echo CS-2511TN for most of the cutting as it is so light it just a joy to us. However, I like using my 500i with 28" bar for bucking and limbing because I am lazy and do not want more bending over than I have to. LOL

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

They are called misery whips and I can tell you from experience they are just that!! The art of sawing with them is to only pull from your side and never push.

Yes. Grandad had one.
Rhythm

 

[5030]

Candidly speaking, I rarely use the bucking spikes on any of my saws either. If the loop is sharp and rakers set correctly, the chain will self feed it self for the most pare with maybe some gentle use of the spikes.

Really only bucking spikes do is to provide leverage to 'lever' the bar into a cut and bog down the powerhead, especially true with a dull chain making sawdust instead of chips. For me, once a loop starts building pitch on the leading side of the teeth, it's time to change put for a fresh, sharp loop something I always carry with me.

 

[WinterDeere]

261 -16"
362 - 20"
500i - 28"

Exactly what I'd run, as well. Anyone who thinks they should be run with bigger bars isn't cutting a lot of large-diameter oak.

I'm presently running:

36cc = 12" (T435)
63cc = 19" (036 Pro / predecessor to MS362)
85cc = 28" (064 AV / predecessor to MS660)

 

[WinterDeere]

Candidly speaking, I rarely use the bucking spikes on any of my saws either. If the loop is sharp and rakers set correctly, the chain will self feed it self for the most pare with maybe some gentle use of the spikes.

useful when wood diameter is larger than bar length. Chain rounding the nose wants to constantly "lift" the tip of the bar, and leaning against those spikes is one means of keeping things moving in the desired direction, as well as reducing probability of kick-back if your plunge starts shallow and then increases in depth during cut.

 

[Jrasband]

Exactly what I'd run, as well. Anyone who thinks they should be run with bigger bars isn't cutting a lot of large-diameter oak.

I'm presently running:

36cc = 12" (T435)
63cc = 19" (036 Pro / predecessor to MS362)
85cc = 28" (064 AV / predecessor to MS660)

I would never cut down a large diameter oak, at least not on my own property, unless it was a liability. Also, I know the 261 with a 20" bar would have no problem with it either unless I was cutting up 10 large oak trees in one day. One large oak = no problem.

 

[WinterDeere]

I would never cut down a large diameter oak, at least not on my own property, unless it was a liability. Also, I know the 261 with a 20" bar would have no problem with it either unless I was cutting up 10 large oak trees in one day. One large oak = no problem.

"Large" is a relative term. To me, that means anything over 40" diameter at breast height, and you're never tackling that with a 20" bar on any saw, or any bar mounted on an MS261.

White oaks in particular, can grow very large here. The largest I brought home was over 6 feet in diameter at knee height, and still over 4 feet diameter 15 feet up, where hurricane Sandy had snapped it off.



That's a 36 inch bar on the Stihl 064 in the photo above, running full-chisel skip chain, apparently the day I bought and first installed that bar (ca.2012/13).

But even the red oaks are usually over 30" diameter by the time they either die or get damaged enough to take them down. MS362's, which are 26% larger displacement than MS261's, still struggle to pull a 20" bar through these without slowing down quite a bit. Anything can be done with infinite patience, but it's going to be slow, and it's going to be frustrating feathering the thing so tenderly that it won't constantly stop in the cut.

We get a lot of oak here, it's probably our most prevalent fire wood, excepting a brief window when all the ash started dying.

 

[Hay Dude]

Sounds like we got a “who’s hung bigger” debate brewin.

I found another nice used 661C. Looks good. $650! Now we’re talkin….
Only one problem, the 3 hour drive each way kinda takes away from the great price.
I’m trying to see if he will dump the tanks, separate the bar off the saw and UPS it to me.
I sold a guy a saw that way. Went fine.

 

[masseyrider]

I've had a 261 with a 18" bar for years.
It's an OK saw but I wouldn't call it great by any means.
I don't have any larger trees to cut down so I'll stay with the 18" bar.
I don't think the 261 would do all that well with a larger bar.

 

[Hay Dude]

Why is the only measure of a saws worth how well it performs buried dawgs-deep in hardwood?
I bet most people use saws for mostly other uses.

 

[KeithT]

I run a 20” bar on my 261C because I like the extra reach when limbing a downed tree. I have a 25” bar on my 500i for the bigger stuff. Still have my old Dolmar 7900 with a 32” bar that I leave on all the time for the rare 25-30” oaks I get into

 

[WinterDeere]

Why is the only measure of a saws worth how well it performs buried dawgs-deep in hardwood?

It's not! But the OP's question was about needing a longer bar on his 261, and he lives in the mid-Atlantic region, so we've already assumed he's buried to the dogs in hardwood.

I bet most people use saws for mostly other uses.

Agreed. That's why we keep smaller saws.

 

[WinterDeere]

Sounds like we got a “who’s hung bigger” debate brewin.

Until someone from redwood country shows up, and starts laughing at all of us.

I found another nice used 661C. Looks good. $650! Now we’re talkin….

That might not stay available for long, if it's in good shape. Seller sounds trustworthy?

Some like to ask for a photo of piston with muffler removed, but that can be a lot to ask of a seller with a hot deal.

 

[Hay Dude]

Until someone from redwood country shows up, and starts laughing at all of us.

Redwood is big, but soft. Pretty easy cuttin.

That might not stay available for long, if it's in good shape. Seller sounds trustworthy?

Some like to ask for a photo of piston with muffler removed, but that can be a lot to ask of a seller with a hot deal.

Turns out, he is not in the part of MD I thought he was.
He’s “only” 2&1/2 hours away, not 3.
Still a lot of fuel & tire wear….

Tough decision.

 

[Hay Dude]

"Large" is a relative term. To me, that means anything over 40" diameter at breast height, and you're never tackling that with a 20" bar on any saw, or any bar mounted on an MS261.

White oaks in particular, can grow very large here. The largest I brought home was over 6 feet in diameter at knee height, and still over 4 feet diameter 15 feet up, where hurricane Sandy had snapped it off.

View attachment 3572340 View attachment 3572350

That's a 36 inch bar on the Stihl 064 in the photo above, running full-chisel skip chain, apparently the day I bought and first installed that bar (ca.2012/13).

But even the red oaks are usually over 30" diameter by the time they either die or get damaged enough to take them down. MS362's, which are 26% larger displacement than MS261's, still struggle to pull a 20" bar through these without slowing down quite a bit. Anything can be done with infinite patience, but it's going to be slow, and it's going to be frustrating feathering the thing so tenderly that it won't constantly stop in the cut.

We get a lot of oak here, it's probably our most prevalent fire wood, excepting a brief window when all the ash started dying.

View attachment 3572394View attachment 3572399View attachment 3572402View attachment 3572491View attachment 3572576View attachment 3572489

I like that 064…..nice saw
Would like it even better with a lightweight bar