Echo CS-500P any good

rangerfredbob · Aug 31, 2025

Just a general question, I've had great luck with Echo engines and I know they can generally keep up with the bigger guys for the most part... Anywho, saw a CS-500P on marketplace for $40 and couldn't pass it up, it has a broken kill switch (they bumped it and now no spark and the switch is wobbly so just shorted) but has good compression and looks in good shape... My normal go to acresinternet doesn't show that model specifically and not much showed up on my quick search... Looks like it's likely about 10 years old which doesn't sound bad... Unless it's a secondary air injection type 2 stroke or something dumb I'm not too worried about the fuel system, I have plenty of parts to fix most standard weedeaters/chainsaws on hand

Topzide · Aug 31, 2025

Good find! I've found a couple of cousins, CS-400's without bars. Cleaned them up and added bar and chains. Run great and light weight for the power!

rangerfredbob · Sep 2, 2025

Dug into it this morning and was able to get the kill switch working, it's convenient being handy... Checked the metering diaphragm and it would have been fine if I hadn't stabbed a screwdriver through it prying the cover off... It's a runner but I need to strip and clean the carb as the high speed circuit seems to be plugged.

The sticker says it's an '11 model, still the newest saw I have... I'm curious if it has any hours on it, chain looks new, the Echo paint on the bar is worn off but the black paint is there. Was either a truck saw or they just changed the bar and chain recently.

Looking a bit more this seems to be past the homeowner grade stuff so that sounds good to me! Sounds like it was in the $450 range when new... If it's anything like the SRM2100 weedeater I got for free and have ran countless gallons of fuel through it should be good...

xyz123 · Sep 4, 2025

500P older series like my 490.

500P is just the upgraded version of the 490. Better metal handles with rubber coating etc like the 4910 going to a 501 was.

Great buy though. When new were 400-420 retail.

They are pro grade built with mag cases etc.

Muffler mod is a must on these. Their muffler is so restricted. Takes you around 10min to 30min if never done it.

xyz123 · Sep 4, 2025

My 490 muffler looked like this. Guessing 500P does too.

Remove that deflector and pop that little piped restriction out and toss it. Then put deflector back on or go 1 step more and open front of deflector up like I do. Retune carb then.

rangerfredbob · Friday at 11:32 PM

Thanks for that! I'm going to go do that here shortly...

I just spent a few minutes on it tonight, pulled the carb again to make sure it was all clean and good, popped off the needle restrictor plate and stuff so I could cycle them and checked the pump diaphragm which looked ok but was black fiber so I changed it to a blue one I had around for good measure... slight tweak and it runs like a top!

Doesn't matter what it cost new, I knew it was worth the $40

, my only other saws are Homelite XL's, Poulan 40cc jobbies and an old Homelite XL330... this should run circles around the 330... The Poulan/Craftsman saws are fine but I rely on firewood so needed a good saw and the right deal finally fell into my lap...

One of these days I'll get all my old random yard/estate sale find saws out and hang them on the shop walls and get a list of them and hopefully have time to dink with them as some are pretty interesting like the old Homelite XL1 I think it is... told myself years ago $10 or under on a chainsaw would likely go home with me... stopped acquiring the Poulans and got pickier over the years...

rangerfredbob · 2025-09-13T00:05:45-0400

You sir were not kidding, that stock muffler was super restrictive! They cheapened the muffler up a bit from your pictures as mine doesn't have the "bolt retainer plate" and the outlet baffle is like the top picture of the new muffler with just the small slit on the front facing side and the three louvered baffles. I ended up taking tin snips to the baffle and adding another slit and folding the whole thing out, of course left the spark arrestor screen in place. But man did it wake the thing up! It can breathe now! Throttle is super responsive...

On the plus side I took the muffler off to do this since I couldn't get a screwdriver to the bottom screw but in doing so I saw the shape of the piston and cylinder walls, they're cherry, look pristine and new, it has an Oregon chain on it that doesn't look like it's had a round file to it, I wonder if they didn't put an hour on it and just keep it around... super glad I jumped on this thing...

xyz123 · 2025-09-13T08:43:24-0400

I like tan 1st, black 2nd. Then blue only if I have no other choice. Black before blue always if I have a choice of the 2 when brand new.

Tan best all round, black next best IMHO for flow.

xyz123 · 2025-09-13T08:50:01-0400

You didnt remove the outer deflector to remove the inner small restriction pipe? Just 2 screws hold outer on on older muffler.

Watch opening the sides like it sounds like you did. Will blow hot exhaust right on the plastic brake handle and possibly melt it when being used alot.

Reason for opening the front of the deflector.

Then my newer 501 muffler on how I do front deflector after remving that little inner pipe.