R1, R3, R4, R14 - Tires - If you had to pick 1? 2?

[CH4Ohio]

Some of these posts sound like this theoretical 25 HP tractor is going to be pulling a 3-bottom plow.

R14 or R4 tires with 4-wheel drive provide all the traction needed for the work that can be done with this size tractor.

 

[ptsg]

Some of these posts sound like this theoretical 25 HP tractor is going to be pulling a 3-bottom plow.

R14 or R4 tires with 4-wheel drive provide all the traction for the work that can be done with this size tractor.

Why can't it pull a plow matched to the tractor? Why would it have to be a 3 bottom plow?

I don't understand this misconception that small tractors can't do any work. Most people growing vegetables for their own use don't need a big tractor, when a smaller one will suffice just fine, which is the case for a lot of people here.

Anyway, here is a 20 HP tractor pulling a plow and honestly, doing a fairly good job. There is also videos there of the same tractor pulling a chisel plow and a subsoiler going 50 cm deep.

 

[FlyFishn]

Got this with R14's , great for mowing, much better traction than the R4'S on the previous tractor. They do great in snow as well.View attachment 4642645

What model tractor is that?

 

[CH4Ohio]

Why can't it pull a plow matched to the tractor? Why would it have to be a 3 bottom plow?

I don't understand this misconception that small tractors can't do any work. Most people growing vegetables for their own use don't need a big tractor, when a smaller one will suffice just fine, which is the case for a lot of people here.

Anyway, here is a 20 HP tractor pulling a plow and honestly, doing a fairly good job. There is also videos there of the same tractor pulling a chisel plow and a subsoiler going 50 cm deep.

Don't misunderstand me. I have a 30 HP B-series Kubota. I can't believe the amount of work it's done. It's the single best machine I ever bought. Mine has a belly mower and FEL and R4 tires.

But it's not going to "work the ground" by the acre by pulling plows and discs. I've tilled many acres and turned sod into seedbeds. And nothing does better at preparing a garden -- even by the acre. I'm just challenging the notion of a 25 HP machine, that also has a mid-mount mower and is used to mow, being "designed" to double as a "tillage" machine.

Most people growing vegetables simply need a rototiller. That's the simplest and most effective piece of equipment. So just put a tiller on it. That's all the ground-engagement you need out of this size machine. And you don't need to over-think the tires in order to have the necessary traction for a rototiller.

 

[tacticalturnip]

What model tractor is that?

Looks like a Kubota LX.

I've got R14's on my Kioti CK.

 

[FlyFishn]

R1 Radials would be my pick for sure. Wide tire, providing more traction, more flotation, also a much better ride since those can run on lower pressures.

Interesting thought. However, I dont see that as a factory option. I can ask the dealer and see where it goes.

 

[FlyFishn]

Looks like a Kubota LX.

I looked up the loader and it fits either the LX2610 or LX3310. The 2610 looks like a previous version of the 2620 we're looking at. The 3310 Id say is bigger.

 

[oldnslo]

Some of these posts sound like this theoretical 25 HP tractor is going to be pulling a 3-bottom plow.

R14 or R4 tires with 4-wheel drive provide all the traction for the work that can be done with this size tractor.

My Branson is very similar in size to a B2601 and R1 are borderline in tying the power to ground before spinning so highly doubtful R14 or R4 would do as well.

 

[ptsg]

Don't misunderstand me. I have a 30 HP B-series Kubota. I can't believe the amount of work it's done. It's the single best machine I ever bought. Mine has a belly mower and FEL and R4 tires.

But it's not going to "work the ground" by the acre by pulling plows and discs. I've tilled many acres and turned sod into seedbeds. And nothing does better at preparing a garden -- even by the acre. I'm just challenging the notion of a 25 HP machine, that also has a mid-mount mower and is used to mow, being "designed" to double as a "tillage" machine.

Most people growing vegetables simply need a rototiller. That's the simplest and most effective piece of equipment. So just put a tiller on it. That's all the ground-engagement you need out of this size machine. And you don't need to over-think the tires in order to have the necessary traction for a rototiller.

It really depends on the ground, doesn't it?

At home, I have this dark sandy ground. Sure, I can just throw a tiller at it and it will make for a great seed bed either way. It's mostly sand after all.

Now, moving 40 miles north, where I have the other place at and it's now this hard clay ground. Putting a tiller directly at it, it like you're trying to till a paved road with it. It just ain't going to work that well. Trust me, I've done it. Biggest reason I built the subsoiler as I didn't have a plow at the time.

That's why people will plow the ground first and the run either a tiller over it or a chisel plow, depending on what they're trying to grow on said land. Plowing the ground is also used as a way to protect the land during the winter time.

Vegetable farming is not only thing these tractors can do. A lot of people will also maintain orchards and vineyards with these smaller tractors. Again, running chisel plows, subsoilers and other specific ground engaging implements made for orchards and vineyards.

It's a tractor, it will do the work as long as the implements are matched to it. Will it be as fast as a bigger one? Of course not, but the smaller one will do the work where a bigger one might not even be able to fit there in the first place.

It can also pull trailers.

To the OP, I apologize for derailing the thread. Just trying to make a point that small tractors can farm too. I'll stop now. Back to tires.

 

[groundcover]

What model tractor is that?

View attachment 1766705504626.jpeg

 

[paulsharvey]

I have had R1 ags, and R14 hybrids; and R4s on construction equipment. The R14 seems like its the 80/20 rule tire, in my experience. Its got slightly less traction than an R1, and slightly worse on turf than R3s, but its probably got 80% of the traction of a Ag, and about 80% of the turf friendly nature of R3s. R4, on industrial equipment does fine; but they have a LOT more weight than a cut.

So, general purpose, id go R14. If you know you will be in mud always, id go R1. If you Know you'll be on asphalt, concrete and grass all the time, R3s. Not that R4s are "bad" but im not a fan in mud, loose sand, ground engaging, or on turf

 

[paulsharvey]

If I had to do it - how would those of you that have R14's or R4's feel about pulling tillage with them? 4wd will help Im sure. Ballast is another subject.

On the reverse of that, if we added ballast for the tillage we likely would want to remove that for mowing (the deck in and of itself will add some weight, not that we would really need/want it but it comes with the task).

The loader on the front is another subject. Im not sure we would want to remove it much, but from a ballast perspective - that would add some weight to the steer tires, speakng of tillage. Im just not sure Im looking forward to the bucking.

The rear end is another subject. Ive had suggestions of loading the tires. The problem with that is I cant remove it to mow.

Theres a point for the R1's - I could load them. But then they are almost a 1 task tire and I need the machine to run all year for everything.

My gut tells me to split the tasks and go R1's for the field work, then one of the other options (R14's. R4's, or R3's - maybe in that order of priority). But we're trying to keep the cost down. So if we had to pick one... are we going to be able to run tillage adequately, maybe with some creativity?

I have R14s on the CK2610, and they do well in dirt with a 6 ft box blade and ok with a 7 ft light chisel plow. As in, yeah, sometimes they slip, but normally the engine js the limit, not the traction.

In wet muck, the R14s do clog up, and get slick,

 

[diesel85]

A

re you talking about losing power due to slipping?

Yep. The less slipping and sliding the better.

My neighbor has loaded turf tires on his TC33D and regrets not getting R1 tires like my machine has.

I've bulldozed through consistent 3' snow using the loader on my BX just pushing it to get the first pass to make a path. It's like a tank with those tires.

 

[hayden]

It totally depends on how you plan to use the machine. If you are going to be mowing a lawn or operating a lot on a lawn, that means R3, R4, or R14. If you will spend much time in snow or mud, that means R1 or R14. If you need loader capacity, R1, R4, or R14. Now look at what fits all YOUR needs.

For my use, which is zero lawn mowing, plenty of mud and snow, loader work, and only occasional need to cross a lawn, it's R1 (or R1W) all the way. Nothing else comes close. But if I were doing finish mowing plus snow and mud, I'd seriously look at R14s.

I would only pick R3s if you almost never do anything except lawn work.

And I would only pick R4s if you almost never do anything except dry construction site work.

 

[FlyFishn]

Its sounding like R14's would be the way to go from the start. Then if we really had to get a wheel set of R1's down the road.

It does get muddy here. The ground is flat (near central Ohio farm country). The specific area we are in is known locally as a swampy area. We've noticed that "swamp season" from the spring thaw until early summer. Depending on how wet of a spring it is determines how long the swampy ground lasts.

 

[paulsharvey]

One thing left off the list, R2s Rice and Canes; those saying R1 ags have the best traction haven't seen just how big of paddles some of the R2s really have. Not something widely used in the US, except on mud trucks; but they are Aggresive.

 

[paulsharvey]

Its sounding like R14's would be the way to go from the start. Then if we really had to get a wheel set of R1's down the road.

It does get muddy here. The ground is flat (near central Ohio farm country). The specific area we are in is known locally as a swampy area. We've noticed that "swamp season" from the spring thaw until early summer. Depending on how wet of a spring it is determines how long the swampy ground lasts.

I doubt you will end up needing or wanting a set of R1s. I think the R14s are "close enough" on all the tasks. No experience with chains on tractor tires (expect Timbercat type set ups or mine loaders), but i would think R14s and chains is cheaper than R14s and R1s; plus wheels.

 

[FlyFishn]

I doubt you will end up needing or wanting a set of R1s. I think the R14s are "close enough" on all the tasks. No experience with chains on tractor tires (expect Timbercat type set ups or mine loaders), but i would think R14s and chains is cheaper than R14s and R1s; plus wheels.

Yep. My thoughts exactly. We've done the same with our lawn tractors in the winter pushing snow - chains make a massive difference.

However, 4wd might get us by without chains. Im not sure though. It would take some ballast.

 

[paulsharvey]

Yep. My thoughts exactly. We've done the same with our lawn tractors in the winter pushing snow - chains make a massive difference.

However, 4wd might get us by without chains. Im not sure though. It would take some ballast.

So, my R14s are more "rounded" than R4s, so even filled, they are better on turf than R4s. I dont know that All R4s are squared off, or that All R14s are rounded, so your milage may vary

 

[number two]

I've always had loaded turfs.
Good enough in snow!
When I got the L2501,R14 tires were $800 more!
I said turfs will be fine!