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Try to switch the two hoses on the out side and see what happens.

Look on the loader valve. That's going to be the easiest place to work. It may look something like this one, which is very common design. You see there is a relief valve. The ports on that side are for pump pressure supply. On the opposite side are outlet (or return ports. You should have two...

One line is pressure. It goes to the side of the valve with the pressure relief valve. Four lines go to the cylinders. Two return lines are on the opposite side of the valve from the pressure side. It's the two return lines you need to trade.

It's not the pressure line, so it's going to be two lines coming out of the valve.

Sounds like the loader valve is plumbed wrong. Seems to be a lot of that around lately. Does the loader valve have six lines or seven? Should have seven. If so, you need to determine which lines go where on the tractor. You may have a couple that need to be traded around.

The center housing is separate from the final drives. I wouldn't suggest putting grease (cornhead or otherwise) in any of them. Just my opinion. The cap on top with the grease fitting. It has four bolts holding it in place. Are those bolts in a square pattern or are they in curved row? There's...

I doubt that. There would be a history of failure if so. I think it was a simple case of part failure and warranty should be no argument.

Looks like it could be item #27 in this diagram. Could you have done something to crack it without knowing? Possible I guess, but doubtful you could do that with damaging something else nearby. I would think there would be some signs of impact damage somewhere as well...

Lots of stuff out there. Maybe one that will work for you. https://www.google.com/search?q=Loader+joystick+handle+with+switch&rlz=1C1RXQR_enUS1101US1101&oq=Loader+joystick+handle+with+switch&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCTIwOTU5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Then it's probably just got something stuck in0 a control valve somewhere. Nothing broken anywhere. Probably an easy fix for someone familiar with the system.

More details about the problem might help. Did it work right at one time? Has anything been changed or worked on since it did work? Has the tractor been parked for some time unused?

YOU don't clean fuel injectors. That's not a homeowner friendly operation. You can however, change the fuel filter(s) and see what you find there. Have you ever done that? Your description of the symptoms leads me in that direction. That too, can be a headache if not done properly.

There is no cable on a 3930. It's all rods. Stand next to the tractor, pull the throttle lever all the way and look at the injection pump. Is the lever on top of the pump all the way against the stop screw? Is the fuel shut off lever all the way forward? If yes on both counts, it's not a linkage...

Is the draft lever all the way up and position control lever in constant pumping? That's how you fool the pump to supply externals.

What makes you think taking oil from the loader valve will be any better than from a remote? Same oil, same flow both places. Use the remote valve and tie it open when you run the rake. It won't hurt anything and shouldn't heat too much. If you're worried about over speeding ( just controlling)...

Yes, that's what I'm suggesting. As for the first part of all this, I really don't know why it ended as it did. If simply removing the power beyond sleeve (if that's indeed what happened) solved his problem, then so be it. His tractor, his choice. If his problem was actually the same as yours...

I would disagree. My impression is the three point is in the mix here. The description leads me to believe the three point is behind the loader valve (as it well should be) and not using the power beyond sleeve to supply it is the wrong way to go. That's why three point operation is erratic and...

If you look at the photos in the early posts the solution found was removing a certain fitting. Your third photo shows what appears to be that same fitting. It's a power beyond sleeve with a plug in it. That's what's wrong here. Remove that plug, (not the whole fitting) replace it (the plug)...

You can view the parts diagrams here. The site won't let you link to individual pages but if you fool with it a little you can type in a model number and work your way to the individual pages. Studying the diagrams will certainly be helpful without a service manual. I find that they often help...

So the roller was till intact after the first try? On some models raising the cover without first removing the roller will tear some of the linkage apart, damaging or even ruining the control valve itself. You got lucky there. Now you need to remove the right side cover and see what's...

Assuming you removed the lift housing to do this? Did you follow any service manual instructions or simply unbolt and lift the housing off? My thoughts go straight to the lift pump control valve roller, but without more details, there could be other things as well. And is it a 321 or a 231?

Most of that is of little help with the problem. Details of the current loader valve and it's connections to the tractor are what's most relevant. The three point question was mainly aimed at whether or not the tractor has a feedback linkage on the lift system. Those are well known for creating...

Photos always help. Closeups are good, but so are details of where lines come from and where they go. Also, does it make any difference if the three point is not fully up? On some tractors that is a factor.

Problem isn't (and wasn't) in the pump. It's in the steering valve. Lots of threads out there on dealing with that. Both Ford and Massey used that valve for a number of years. Find a manual that covers the power steering control valve. I&T manual will do.

The grease is just for the top cap. It's not connected to the lubricated parts inside.

That style front end has only two seals. One on the spindle portion and one on the axle flange. Which one is the problem? Axle seal is of course the easiest to deal with. If you have the shop manual you will see it describes removing, disassembling, re assembling, and installing the complete...

If it loses prime because of the lift pump (possible, but not proven) the fuel tank must be below engine level?

So how do you have a tractor with 21 hours that's out of warranty? You should be making your case there, not here.

Seems there are a few different transmission options for that model, but the parts list doesn't show any drive plates other than a single dry clutch option to power the transmission input on any of them. Are you sure you don't have a dry clutch ahead of the power shuttle and the that clutch...

I'd say that the bleed valve is probably working as it should. The leak is coming from fuel in the line and coming from somewhere other than the bleeder. To confirm that slip the hose off the bleeder and start the engine. I think the fuel will exit the hose not the bleeder. Can you just shorten...

I would think the clutch is mainly used for PTO engagement, yes, but it also drives the transmission. You claim the PTO is working fine. If the clutch is the problem then when the tractor stops moving so will the PTO. Have you confirmed that? Your description of the symptoms does lean toward a...

Before you pull and/or condemn another starter, why not try this. Take a short piece of wire and attach a female spade connecter to one end. A connector that will slip onto the spade on the starter. Leave the other end of the wire bare. Now put that on the starter instead of the signal wire...

He's still fighting it.

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com029tz/3-cyl-compact-tractor/engine-equipment/fuel-tank-related-parts/cn/CE79D4BD-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/B010AD4F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 Most TZ series have a filter in the back. Usually need to remove the rear...

Well admittedly I'm no big fan of "Koreangineering" and so much of today's small tractor industry seems to come from that area. I often let that attitude affect my opinions, I don't see a lot of those tractors up close and personal but I read and hear a number of "not so good" experiences people...

Just personal opinion here, but my take is your transmission fluid, filter, ETC change interval will have little or no bearing on sychronizer life down the road. The facts as described, namely synchros replaced once already, and (probably) another on the way out tells me it's more of a design...

So much for the easy stuff.

Seems to me they're available darn near everywhere. https://www.google.com/search?q=New+Holland+TC33+starter&rlz=1C1RXQR_enUS1101US1101&oq=New+Holland+TC33+starter&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg8MgYIAhBFGDzSAQkxMTk1OGowajeoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

In your first photo. I see what is probably one of the seat mounting bolts. Forward of that is what looks like a bolt, nut, and short length of flat steel. Using the steel flat bar as a lever, try turning the bolt counter clockwise. If it's fully turned to the right, the three point won't lower...

Your list of problems concerning the injection pump indicate that it's time to pull it off, send it in, and have it rebuilt.

The same way anyone else would. Clean the oil off, then try it again. Only this time look for the spot where the oil comes from. Figure out what that part is, and then decide how to stop the leak.

Kubota parts website lists an LB400 as a basic loader with fairly standard looking lift and bucket cylinders. I see nothing unusual about those pistons that makes any sense concerning your description of those your friend is working on. No pins involved, just a single nut holding the piton onto...

Installing those piston seals isn't all that difficult. I have replaced a few hundred of them without problems. In fact I just did two yesterday on a Kubota loader bucket and tilt cylinder. I don't heat them unless it's colder than 40 degrees ambient. I put the O ring on the piston, then...

I don't take anything apart, just slice the old hose off and push the new hose on.

Typically that will be a hard plastic line pushed onto a steel barbed fitting. I have replaced a number of them with softer line available from a number of sources. I buy a bulk length, cut it to fit. Cut the old line off the barb and push the new line onto it. Usually something like this...

"Rebuilt" steering cylinder or not, it still sounds like a piston seal issue. People often tend to blame or suspect steering valve problems, but in fact the orbitrol style valves rarely give problems (other than oil leaks) until someone "works" on them.

Time to change that primary filter again would be another guess. Fuel starvation possibility and a "several year old" primary filter???

Been there many times, and still have all my fingers.

Another vote for O ring ports. BSPP may be as effective, but much more expensive, with fewer options as far as fitting style and multi-sizing combinations available. O ring fittings can be found anywhere. For me, it's O ring port components and JIC lines and hoses. NPT is rarely an option...

Yes. You can reach in with your finger and feel for a metal part. You can push it against slight spring pressure and it will move in away from the hole, then come back as you release pressure. You can use a tool of some sort if you like. I just use my finger.

It has an oil pressure switch that supplies power to the gauges and "ignition" type circuits when the engine is running. You can tie the voltmeter to that and it will function when the engine is running.

No, just turning the key one position will NOT pull the rod in. The start circuit pulls it in, the ignition circuit holds it in. If you turn th key to on you can push the rod by hand and it should stay in until you turn the key off.

You can feel and hear if the solenoid is working. If needed you can just take it out and try to start the engine without it. If the solenoid is the problem it will start right up. You can reach in with your finger and shut it by pushing against whatever the rod contacts.

You can test the tractor harness with a test light. You will have one ground wire (usually black) one wire hot with key switch on, and one hot with starter engaged. Then do the same with the new solenoid, two jumper wires, and 12 volts. Ground one wire and apply 12 volts to one of the others...

I've had some tractors where the clutch was stuck pretty bad like that. I have an old 9/16 box end wrench around somewhere that I customized. It's bent at 90 degrees with a 1/2" drive socket welded on such that I can go through the starter hole with this on a long extension and break the clutch...

A dry clutch (working or not) has nothing to do with fluid levels. I'm not familiar with a T474 so I don't know what the adjustment is, but I suspect it's a rod with a turnbuckle leading down from the pedal hidden behind the paneling under the steering wheel. Your last statement leads me to...

If it's a dry clutch tractor (as you implied) no matter how new it is, the pedal free play is a critical factor with that symptom. An operator with experience can "feel" for that free play and should know where to go next. If there is little or no free play you make adjustments first, then look...

Exactly. What I would do next is simply remove the steering pump completely for further examination. Either the pump is completely toast or something's broken and the pump isn't even turning.

I'm no authority on that tractor but what you described says only one of the two pumps is working. The lift and hydraulics will be one pump. The other pump will supply steering, transmission (charge) and PTO clutch operating pressure. You need to look and see which pump is which, and determine...

Can't help wondering why the in tank screen is such a problem in your case? I recall when those tractors were sold new. I remember a few instances of screens plugging up, but rarely more than once. What's going on in your tank? A side note. Replacing the braided steel covered fuel lines and...

Correct. A float spool is indeed required, but simply replacing (and/or swapping) spools in most hydraulic control valves is not an option. If you want a valve with a float function you switch to a valve WITH a float function. You don't simply ADD a float function. Yes, you can add a detent...

No problem getting a pilot bearing. That's readily available from a number of sources. The bushing(s) are more likely Deere only parts. At this point I really doubt you need to replace them. Seal rings, yes, I would always do that. Piston seals as well since you're into it this deep. Bearings...

Okay, so the splined end of that shaft goes into the clutch. That means it can't go any farther forward than the pilot bearing allows. If the flywheel and pilot bearing are intact, it only leaves the crankshaft being to far forward. I'd be looking at crankshaft end play next. Maybe the problem...

The vertical keyhole is the problem, not the mounting hole You can't seal that.

You might not ever break off another key, but where you mounted that is going to be a constant source of moisture contamination forever.

The two parts in your photo. One appears to be the front portion of the forward clutch pack assembly. Yes/no? The cover next to it fits over the shaft and the seal in the cover rides on the shaft back near the point where the shaft and flange/housing meet. Correct? If that's the case, then where...

I've been following this from a distance, but having never been into one I hesitate to offer any suggestions. I found what I believe is the shaft assembly in your photo in the parts book (R39084) but I can't find the aluminum housing. I may have some books on similar model utility tractors that...

A number of theories on that subject, and you're sure to hear a few. Suggestions will follow, but the decision is yours. It will depend on what's available for that model OEM wise, your skills and abilities, what you expect the finished product to look like, (aesthetics vs function) and of...

Then hit the nut with a good impact wrench. That usually works.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/fiat-805c-crawler-tractor-workshop-service-manual--900508887962499627/ https://www.jensales.com/products/fiat-805c-crawler-service-manual.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqSV3kpsuaO7LAXK6xMNe75KyGHBwiRfHHx6kZmOycKGwv78XOM...

More details would help get you more accurate replies. Side note. You can't start that tractor by merely turning the key on and "jumping" the starter. It has a bypass relay that prevents ignition circuit voltage voltage from reaching the injection pump. (maybe you didn't know that)

I use 3/16" clear plastic fuel hose, cut into 41/2" or 5" lengths as needed. It's easily found on line, just be careful to read the fine print. You want hose that's fuel and heat resistant with the thickest material you can find. The thin stuff usually starts to soften and leak from the heat...

What you're describing is a classic symptom of steering cylinder piston seal failure. You don't need a "Deere ex spurt" to figure that out.

If you have no idea where the clutches are, maybe you're past the point of studying parts diagrams. Time to consult a tech manual.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/16940 Must not be looking very hard

Then what?

So you acquired this machine "in pieces", obviously hadn't run in some time. You got all back together and running. You lubed up the hydraulic pump before starting it? At this point I would suggest you remove the rubber suction hose section at the pump, turn it upwards as far as you can and pour...

Pressure testing the clutches doesn't really rule anything out. Depending on where the test ports are located, there could still be internal leaks in the valves or passages leading to the clutches that can cause problems even if both clutches are indeed sound. In my opinion it's a necessary...

Having never worked on a John Deere reverser transmission I have no personal experience to share. I can say this. I would be looking for some pressure test ports to begin with. If that doesn't prove anything, the next step would be to dig into it a little deeper to try and find the pressure...

Not being familiar with a forklift version of this tractor I can't really visualize how the brake pedals and linkage would be set up. Assuming the seat, steering and other controls are reversed and are mounted on a platform of sorts, the linkage must a few more parts and pivot points than the...

Just because Deere discontinued those parts doesn't mean they aren't available from Yanmar or through Yanmar suppliers. Don't give up yet.

While it might be a "folksy answer" I can assure you that after having split a few hundred tractors and having removed multiple dozen engines for one reason or another, simply "lifting the engine out" is not an option. Most of the operations you described may well be involved, but it's all part...

Pull the engine without splitting the tractor. It always seemed to me that pulling the engine IS splitting the tractor. Is this some sort of hypothetical question? Then I have to wonder WHY one would want to remove the engine without splitting the tractor?

That's easy to say, provided everybody has a load tester in their back pocket. If not, it's a matter of removing the battery and another trip to town. I'm guessing the chances are better that he has a couple wrenches to fit the cable anchor bolts even if he doesn't have a load tester.

Before you condemn the battery, have you checked the ground cable where it bolts to the tractor? That's also a common problem with intermittent and/or poor starter response. Loosen the bolt, work the cable back and forth then tighten the bolt and try the starter again.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/16920/referrer/navigation/pgId/2791587

This looks like it might be what you have. Appears to be just a single gasket, no O rings or sealing washers. Probably a bit heavier material than a homemade paper replacement.

Look at the hydraulic filter. The oil supply to the filter base starts with a flange bolted the tractor main case. The screen is behind that flange. Drain the main case. Dismantle the lines and hose coupling. Remove the flange and the screen will probably come out with the flange.

He's had the Massey for a couple years now (sorry but I don't know the model or the emissions system) and seems happy enough with it. Only complaint I've heard has to do with the common rail fuel system and its emissions. He says he has to keep the RPM higher than he likes during use. Something...

Not on a Case IH, but on a New Holland T4.100. A local farmer had recently purchased it used from a New Holland dealer. It failed during his first season rolling hay with it. The six bolts had come loose, parts dropped into the planetary gears and everything locked up. Made quite a mess of...

The "spring pin" is a roll pin (in most people's vocabulary) and yes it will drive out of the coupler. It helps if you jack up the front of the tractor and put stands under the axle. Provides a lot more "belly room" under there and allows the wheels and drive shaft to rotate so you can get the...

You're going to get suggestions from all across the board until you get specific about what works and what doesn't. Your first post indicated the rear lift works fine. The problem was only with the bucket curl/dump circuit. Now you add the "lift arms are dead". What lift arms? Troubleshooting...

Depending on just where the strain was greatest, you may have damaged one of the bucket cylinder pistons or piston seals. That could affect the operation (or non operation) of both cylinders. It's fairly easy to check for that, Raise the loader letting the bucket droop down until both bucket...

Before changing any other parts I think I would disconnect the sensing lines at the priority valve. Separate the lines, and only hook up the one from the loader valve, leaving the line from the remotes out of the equation. I've seen too many shuttle checks give false signals causing similar...

Here's my first thought. Using the loader by itself seems to be lacking in performance. Stroking a remote lever makes the system perform better. That tells me you have a problem with the sensing circuit from the loader valve. Either the valve is not sending the sensing signal, or a shuttle tee...

If the remote valve must be moved (in any direction) for the loader valve to have oil supply, then it's NOT a power beyond block or port. The simplest way to supply a loader valve on those tractors is to interrupt flow from the MCV down on left side of the transmission housing. You can look at...

Check your PM inbox

https://www.cncest.com/products/13gpm-hydraulic-solenoid-selector-diverter-valve-hsv6-c-dc12v-1-spool-25mpa-50lpm?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_NC9BhCkARIsABSnSTaafzbPF3zQh8c1D5ZrVz87G4TIYMnIWEolxzaOoSUhqwf7TFxymqkaAgxUEALw_wcB...

The HV 4902 has only two ports. When you remove the loader does the valve go with it or does it stay on the tractor? If it goes with the loader the two lines from the 4902 must be connected together, but I assume you already know that.

"How do you fix this?" Your clutch pedal linkage has a turnbuckle type of adjustment connecting the pedal itself to the cross shaft for the clutch release mechanism on the inside. This threaded adjustment allows for pedal free play adjustment that requires periodic maintenance. Assuming you're...

If it still has the original water filter package under the cab behind the right side ladder, I'd start right there. When fuel (and sometimes other crap) exits the tank that filter is the first place it goes. Remove the banjo bolt, the fitting from the hose, and all of that. Inspect and clean it...

No. Return it and get the right clutch.

Just one more opinion for what it's worth. What I have for you is NOT what you want to hear. Considering the complaints I've heard, read, and seen concerning the 2016 and up Workmaster line, my advice is this. Go back to the sales department and see what sort of deal you can work out to trade...

You leave a lot of details out of the story. No one out here knows what valve, what "block", how and where all the lines go. Any replies you get will be of little help.

I for one, am still confused as to exactly what you have now. You have a loader valve (with power beyond?) and a new valve now supplied with power beyond from said loader valve? That flow is connected to the P port of the new valve, the power beyond from the new valve goes back into the tractor...

Like I said, you need to "jump" test the starter. It's a lot easier than trying to read the voltage down there at the signal wire while attempting to start it. The solenoid may well be perfectly serviceable, but if the signal wire is only delivering five to eight volts, it won't work.

What is -P and +P? I think you probably have things hooked up backwards. The pressure supply from the pump needs to go the P port on the valve (the one nearest the relief valve) and the power beyond sleeve (N port) on the valve should supply oil back into the tractor system. I think you should...

I'm sorry if I overloaded you. I assumed if you are capable of replacing the solenoid you could probably accomplish this repair as well. While I'm not a fan of videos as all that great a means of gathering experience, there are some that actually provide accurate and usable information. Here is...

Regardless of hours, the tractor is definitely old enough for the dreaded solenoid "click click click syndrome". Sounds very much like a good candidate for the extra starter relay kit. Easiest way to tell is to test the starter with a jumper wire. I say "easiest" provided you can even get to the...

I have to wonder where you got the information that the front wheel assist is at all hydraulic in nature. Maybe yours is the exception but all those I've been around were strictly mechanical like most compacts. My experience with 4WD tractors is that when the front drive stops suddenly with no...

You're right about the splined shaft. I had the valve out of a 2120 some years back to replace the shaft seals, but I can't remember what all was involved in getting it out.

It may not be available through New Holland any more but a GOOD hydraulic parts supply can most likely match the individual parts. I would go that route. Take it apart, see what's there, and then go from there. There's a place I go to for cylinder seals that stocks that sort of stuff. Look...

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com0734cyl/4-cyl-compact-tractor-20-series/front-axle-steering/power-steering-case-assembly-8710-94/cn/C9AD02C3-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/8FF3724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

Yes. And once you get that far, be SURE to work on the valve with the shaft end up. To replace the most likely failed seals you only need to remove the four bolt flange from the top. Be careful to not let anything else come up or get out of place below that or you can easily get in over your head.

I have one each oxygen, acetylene, and argon mix bottles I bought many years ago at a local welding supply when I lived in Idaho. I ran into problems trying to refill them here at Airgas in Lexington, so I ended up swapping them out at TSC. Had to pay a "certification" fee with each one, but it...

Starting at 45 degrees should be no problem. With all you've done so far and still no positive results, I'm guessing you have either a bad cable or a bad starter. I wouldn't think you need a $700 hi torque job but that's your choice. I would try a local rebuilder first.

It give you three ports with which to connect another valve, yes. Whether you use quick couplers to do that depends on whether you decide the loader valve will stay with the tractor or go with the loader should you need to remove the loader. You SHOULD use couplers in one manner or other. Either...

There are hundreds of that style valves still in use on older Ford tractors. Nothing wrong with them, except for the fact yours is only a single spool version, so it can only operate one pair of cylinders. You have a few choices. You can locate (and replace it with) a two spool version. They're...

Try loosening the lines on top of the pump a few turns. Then briefly starting the engine and watch the lines for oil spewing out. If/when it does, shut the engine off and tighten the lines. Sometimes that needs to be done.

Having never done a seal replacement on this engine, I too can only guess. Most engine designs have the seal installed from the front of the cover so it's possible to remove and install a seal without removing the front cover. The drawings above and those in the parts diagrams don't really...

Sorry but as I see it the "thing" in the valve with an orange cap is a relief valve adjustment. It has nothing to do with single acting cylinders. If the valve is now plumbed as your diagram shows, and the supply line from the pump goes to the loader valve first, with nothing between the pump...

You can do as you please, locate or fabricate a plate to suit your needs. Your choice. My solution would be simply separate the pressure line wherever it's convenient. Some tractors it's two pieces to start with, others it's only one line. Pick out whatever valve you plan to use and figure out...

Tag or no tag, look for the service ports. That will tell you. R12 systems used 1/4" SAE male service ports. R134A systems used a fitting similar to a male hydraulic coupler but much smaller, One is larger than the other so high and low pressure gauge connections cannot be swapped. (installed...

Then you can remove the belt for now, and deal with it later. If you knew for sure the system (and compressor are sound) you MAY be able to locate and replace the pulley/bearing assembly down the road. Since it wasn't working well to begin with, I'd suggest you go with the "crazy money" option...

Sounds like your problem is more likely a seized pulley bearing than a compressor "locked up". Unless the A/C is turned on, the clutch engaged so the compressor is actively trying to operate you would never know the compressor was "locked up".

Your diagram as drawn looks like it SHOULD work. However, in the photos I can't see the three lines from the loader valve to the tractor. The "carry over" line you mentioned. Is that a power beyond fitting mounted in the N port of the valve? Second question. I only see one work port being used...

Just a note. I suggested swapping all four couplers. My mistake there, as you actually have eight parts involved. The male ends can be defective as well.

This only affects one function? Loader lift only? Not bucket curl or loader boom down (as in lifting the front of the tractor)? If so, changing fluids and/or filters is is a waste of time and money. It's not a fluid problem. Couplers? Maybe, but only you can see, hear, and feel what's happening...

Looks like you have simple dry, drum and shoe type brakes. If they are original (quite possible) then why not just pull one side down and inspect the shoes and drum surface. It should be just a matter of a clevis pin and a few bolts.

I doubt it "blew a head gasket" while attempting to start it on a cold morning. We're not getting the whole story here. So the tractor had been sitting unused for a few weeks. I'm betting some of the current issues were present back then. Any starting or overheating problems in the recent...

Removing it for repair is of course your choice. I think most people would simply remove the rod end from the anchor pin, remove the gland nut and then pull the guts out leaving the barrel in place. I know I would go that route if at all possible.

No offense intended, but what was so enticing about this particular model that led you to a tractor with an electronic controlled hydrostat? That would have been a big red flag for me, but then I'm just against electronic controls on anything.

When was the last time you saw a pickup pulled over and Johnnie Law was sampling the color of the fuel?

I see a friction washer listed (item 1) but I don't see any nut to adjust that will tighten it. Looks like spring washers (item 11) probably provide the tension. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/3584/referrer/navigation/pgId/2693876

One problem with asking. You never know if you can trust the answers. That model is one that was offered with both open center and closed center hydraulics. It's best that both parties know which system is under discussion.

I can't help being curious about what you're asking about. Is this the line in question? If so, what is the leak you're trying to repair? Next question, what makes you think that line would be so hard you can't cut it with a tubing cutter? I've cut similar lines on other tractors many times with...

The description sounds to me like the "smaller differential gears" are working fine, but the ring and pinion are more likely the problem. You stated the input shaft seems to be disconnected. Yet the whole assembly locks up when it tries to turn. To me that seems like some teeth have broke loose...

What I mean is simply this. When you move the tractor then come to a stop you let off the direction pedal. At that point the spring loaded pedal linkage brings the hydrostat to neutral and the tractor stops moving. In theory, at this point you should be able to move either pedal an equal...

Does the hydrostat center to neutral properly when you let off the pedal?

Unfortunately yes, the fenders will need to come off to allow removal the lift housing. When I get into one for this reason I also remove item #3 on this diagram. It provides another access to reach in and wipe out more of the scrap metal fragments...

I think you're missing the point. Your problem Isn't with the shift linkage. It's in here...

This looks like it could be your cylinder. If so, pick at the lock ring in the hole on the side. Pull it up slightly and rotate the gland while doing so and the lock ring should come out. I try to do this while it's still on the machine. Eliminates the need work in a vise...

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/light-equipment/utility/nabs87uti002utility/3-cyl-utility-tractor/fuel-system/fuel-system-diesel-wcav-injection-pump-2000-4000-65-3000-6512-65-9-69-1-71-5000-11-72/cn/EB65C5C9-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/AFF5724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

The place I go to for cylinder seals has yet to NOT have what I need. Have been going there for years. I can re seal a few cylinders for $250. They do a lot of mail order business. https://www.pneu-draulics.com/

I think if you have the pertinent information on the valve, you should try to contact Prince with your question. Maybe through a Prince dealer or distributor if all else fails. While you may well get some responses here, I rather doubt any will be all that helpful. Maybe I'll be surprised.

If you're referring to the oil drained out of the tractor, I doubt it would show signs of anything. In order for oil to exit the hydrostat and mix with the rest of the oil in the tractor it would need the charge pump working and oil flowing INTO the hydrostat long enough for that to happen. I...

When I look at the posted photo of the charge pump it's obvious it didn't seize immediately. The scoring, cracked and missing pieces didn't happen AFTER it seized. It was probably still pumping something while gradually tapering off in that regard. And are we sure it actually did seize? As ugly...

In MOST cases, yes, the filter should be (and stay) full during successful operation. Your tractor has an electric fuel pump so in theory it should almost be a self priming fuel system. It doesn't always work that way. Reading the instructions you are apparently following, it doesn't mention the...

I'm still not clear on all the details. The case broke, so both halves of the tractor are no longer aligned. How long did the engine run at this point? Was the hydrostat still moving the tractor at this point? Did the tractor quit moving after that? What all was done to get the tractor in the...

Wow! No wonder it won't pump. You didn't do that damage during your repairs, must have been some side thrust going on with the engine running while the case was busted. How deep do you plan to go? That shrapnel must have gone through the rotating groups as well. Just my two cents.

You can dink around here and get some idea of what's in it. That's where I start if I don't have a service manual. https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/utility/naba87uti001tnda/deluxe-tractor/cn/BB0FAD4F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6?categorySearch=true

And you're SURE it's NOT the brake? That's a multi disc brake, not the simple shoe and drum type like the earlier models, so if it comes on due to something out of place in there it could be on TIGHT. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/22053/referrer/navigation/pgId/1095970

Okay, so you can actually remove the pump inlet line from the tee in the main suction line? If you can do that, you can drain down the transmission/hydraulic fluid far enough to do so. Horse the lines apart far enough to slip a length of hose (like three feet or so) over the end of the pipe...

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com025tseries/compact-tractor/hydraulic-system/hydraulic-piping-whst/cn/E371DDF8-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/7F0DAD4F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

My question about the broken clutch housing was because I think it's possible that if the engine was running with both halves of the tractor out of alignment that puts a strain on the shafts between them. The charge pump is at the front of the hydrostat. Could a side strain on the input shaft...

I don't have a book on that model handy at the moment, but you might be having an issue with the bypass start relay. Many (maybe all, I'm not sure) of that series tractors have a tricky circuit with a separate relay in the mix, the sole purpose of which is to interrupt the power to the injection...

If I'm reading this correctly, the hydraulics work (as far as steering, lift, and auxiliary functions?) but there is no response from the transmission and apparently no oil flow through it? No flow to or from the transmission filter? I don't have any books on that tractor but from parts lists...

He stated earlier that he could shift in and out of all gears. Also stated the shift cover was off and nothing wrong was noted. Stuck in two gears is along shot there.

That's not a clutch issue, and probably not a transmission problem either. I think it's farther back. If you try rolling it, how much will the tires move in either direction before it locks up? If it was brakes or axle issue the tires wouldn't move at all. A problem in the transmission/pinion...

If you follow along here regularly, you should know that details are the difference between helpful information and worthless drivel. The phrase "won't go into gear" is about as vague as "it won't start". Give us a few hints about what you're experiencing.

It's not complicated. the loader valve has "one IN and TWO outs" as you have determined. The power beyond OUT is the one you want. It's most likely directly opposite from the IN port, and will have what looks like an extension fitting threaded into the valve body with another fitting threaded...

Agreed there are no seals at this point, just a tapered seat. One thing you could try. I've had good success with this many many times. Loosen the line nut one flat, then jam it down tight. Loosen it again and jam it down tight again. You will see that each time the wrench will go a little bit...

A heater will help, but what you really need is a floor. A couple sheets of plywood will work for a tractor that size. I've done that many times.

Sounds as if a split is in the near future. Not a pleasant experience this time of year when done outdoors in snow country.

Reading all this tells me it's NOT a fuel issue, but electrical. A fuel issue may cause it to not start, yes, but the "start instantly", stop for no apparent reason, then start again "instantly" just just doesn't happen with fuel supply problems. It would require bleeding somewhere at some...

Spilling some fuel onto the clutch housing isn't likely to have much effect on clutch performance, particularly so in that short time frame. A slipping clutch is a good possibility, but what about pedal free play? Has that been checked (and adjusted) lately? Much more likely a problem right...

You may get it, but I don't. If you're not capable of turning the key without help, why do you need it running to begin with?

Why would he need a second person? I can't imagine the number of diesel engines I've bled out and gotten started without a second person. I see no need to add misinformation to the mix.

You installed a new PTO clutch. This is the dual clutch assembly, right? Along with a new plate for the drive clutch. So this is a live PTO tractor, not independent PTO. Now when you engage the PTO the engine slows down, like it's under heavy load? It doesn't have this problem with PTO turned...

Something IS wrong here. What do you mean by "got it running"? Is this a pre existing condition this newly acquired tractor came with, or has the transmission been apart and worked on? The purpose of the interlock mechanism is so only one shift rail at a time can be shifted out of neutral. What...

The parts book shows the rod, boot, cover plate, and a turnbuckle. How much of that is visible (and accessible) with the boot loose and pried back? A photo or two of what you see might help.

Unless it's a power shuttle you can pull start it with the other tractor and save a lot of trouble. Another possibility is to reach in, push on the fan belt and pull on the fan blade. I have done that many times to roll an engine a few degrees to get some different ring gear teeth lined up with...

I would think if there was enough water in the system to cause problems with icing, you would notice it by the color and texture of the oil even when it's above freezing. Water and oil mixture gets ugly fast. Assuming (on my part) water is not the problem, I'd lean more towards filter...

What "regional rep" might that be?

Okay, I see what your working with. One more word of advice. When you finally do get into it, jack that tire off the ground. It will make all this MUCH easier.

Pretty straight forward? Up to a point. Which part are you replacing? The one attached to the tire/wheel assembly, the one threaded (there are no splines) onto the steering cylinder rod, or both as a package deal? Bear in mind where the two parts thread together is the adjustment for the toe in...

I would need to confirm there is massive internal damage before I would consider a reman exchange type of thing. I ran into something similar on a 5303 a couple years back and the replacement pump was like $2500 exchange. We had little choice, but you don't know if you're in that predicament...

Apparently you have your share of supply problems, and (maybe) have most of them licked. Having been through this sort of thing many many times, at this point I would bypass the tank. Remove the line to the filter base, add a section of hose, a temporary fuel supply (for me that's an empty...

As has been stated, It's up to you what to do next. If someone brought this problem to me, I would do this. Remove the tire and wheel, raise that side up high enough to keep oil in the center tube from draining into the spindle/knuckle unit. Drain the unit and remove the stub axle and bull gear...

"Fuel is overflowing a full tank"? What does that tell you? It tells me that the fuel pump is pulling fuel out of the filter but supply from the tank is blocked. The filter empties out and nothing is coming from the tank to supply it.

If it were the steering pump causing the problem, you would be out of steering fluid every day. The can only holds a quart and a half. How much over full is the engine oil level, and is the hydraulic reservoir low? Your piston pump is the more likely culprit in my opinion.

So how does he use the existing ECMs when he doesn't have the existing ECMs? I think that was his question.

There could be error codes, (provided you can access them) but even with that, you need more to work with than an ohm meter. Whether it's an E series or M series, after 2015 you get into the most complicated computer systems. s

I guess you work on these all the time, right?

That's a great idea if you know which wires to "ohm out". There's only a mile of wires in there, and you need to get to both ends of each to "ohm" them out.

Okay, so you've done the easy, quick, once over. Now it's time to get serious (and your wallet out). That means you get the "Deere people" (or maybe if you're lucky, someone else that knows the system and has the necessary tech savvy and equipment to trouble shoot it) involved to figure out WHY...

There is a "cap, oil filler" listed in the parts book. It apparently fits into the front timing cover on the right side, probably right over the drive shaft and gear for the hydraulic pump. My guess is this is a filler port for engine oil. I doubt it's a reservoir at all. Where do you add motor oil?

No, you don't need to bleed anything. Once your leak is fixed, just cycle the cylinders from full retract to full extend a time or two, check and top of oil level. I'm curious as to just what the leak is.

A "fill port"? What exactly is that? There should be a suction manifold with a line leading the hydraulic filter, but a fill port sounds a bit strange.

What it means is the computer decided the shuttle should go to neutral. (for whatever reason) When that happens you walk home.

As I understand it, they still build (and sell) replacement non emissionized engines for the older tractors. One has to provide model and serial numbers of the original engine and provide proof the block was drilled in this manner to prevent it's being rebuilt or re used. Mainly to stop you from...

Have you tried removing the relief valve components to see if any damage was in fact done? I would certainly do that before replacing a $1200 part.

You can if you want, but you will also need the lines that go with it, and probably some different brackets. I'm not sure what you're likely to gain after all that. I've changed hundreds of the C.A.V. filters over many years in some hard to reach places and have always managed to get them sealed...

Now that's Kore-engineering at it's best. I'm curious to see how you make out finding one of those. Won't be much in the after market world, and OEM replacements won't be around for long. If all else fails, I would be considering fabricating something from steel tubing and using three rubber...

The added start relay is a common solution to that "clicking" problem, one that has been used many times. Usually on units much older than yours, but that's the world we live in now. I've done it myself on more tractors than I care to count.

I think it means you need to remove the starter again and take another look at the gear teeth. Both starter and ring gear.

That tractor (even if it's 4WD) is not very hard to split. John Deere shops (at $100+/hr) aren't the the only people capable. Look/ask around for someone local. I've had a number of 5000 series tractors apart and can have one apart in one afternoon. (once the loader and support frames are off)...

Agco lists it as 4265163M91 if that helps.

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com003tc/4-cyl-compact-tractor-north-america/hydraulic-system/hyd-oil-filter-piping/cn/124E0FBF-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/8A0EAD4F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 This might help. Note item#1. You post leads me to think...

Your choice as always, but reusing the connectors is just keeping much of the problem in the system.