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Do you remember how it was implemented? I can only envision an extra hydraulic line plumbed between the check valve and the cylinder that gets carried down to the base of the unit. Or an electrically operated valve that dumped the high pressure side of the check valve to tank. Hopefully they had...

It would be interesting to see where in the circuit they install that and how they secure it against unintentional use. On my lift the check valves are mounted on the cylinder, so you'd have to T into that short line between the check valve and the cylinder inlet fitting to be able to relieve...

I could have capped it because the high pressure line comes out of a manifold that powers the base controls separately from the cage. But I had to go to the same place to get the hose or the cap, so I figured I'd just do a temporary hookup with the hose.

Got 'er fixed. The new line is 45' long and cost me $215, but that's at the Parker dealer so parts are top notch and they have everything in stock. Here's a picture of how I lowered the boom, I attached the new hose to high pressure on the base and then draped the line up to the cage and got on...

I can reach it on an 8' ladder but I'm not aware of any kind of patch that would work, it's 2100psi.

So I got the old hose out, it's 40' long. I'm on the way to get a new one made and I have an idea to make this easier. I'm going to connect the new hose at the fitting on the base of the lift and then just drape the hose up and connect it to the cage while I'm standing on a ladder, then I can...

Mine has that too, it's a hand pump that allows you to pressurize the system by hand. Problem is the high pressure hose is broken, so it doesn't matter whether I pressurize it with the electric pump or with my hand, the fluid still comes out and I can't get enough pressure to release the PO...

I broke a high pressure line on my lift while it was in the air. Is there any way to lower it so I can change the hose on the ground? On the attached schematic the line that broke is near the top of the drawing, right above the word "Cage" on the drawing. The hose is broken right under the cage...

If you can take the screen out without losing much fluid, I'd check it. You can attach a vacuum cleaner to the hydraulic fluid filler port to create some negative pressure when you remove the screen, that will help minimize fluid loss. What was collected in the screen? Was it metal or sludge...

I just ordered a set off ebay, they had a set of large and small for $35. Next time I'll be ready.

I put a suspension seat on my ztr and I also use one of these cushions. Between the two of them it helps. I tried one of the new toro ztr mowers at the local shop, they have a new approach to seat suspension. The seat kind of hangs like a backyard swing, that felt really good. You might shop...

Not sure what kind of property tax laws you have but I switched from pole barns to hoop buildings because they aren't taxed here in Illinois. I put up a 50x160 hoop building that will pay for itself in less than 20 years just from the property tax savings.

I made a manure vacuum because we only have 4 horses, but you can buy commercial ones that will handle pretty large amounts of cattle and horse manure. It depends how much land and how many cattle and how much trouble you have with parasites. Depending on how hot and dry it gets where you are...

#68 is a better fit in your climate. Here's a generic chart that shows #68 is right for your temps.

We have a place near me that straightens frames on everything from snowmobiles up to 18 wheelers, If you could find a place like that near you they would have the equipment to do it right.

Unless you have a crossover relief valve on your FEL, I would guess you damaged the internal parts of the cylinders. When the valve was in the neutral position and you hit the tree, it created a large pressure spike in the closed part of the hydraulic system that consists of the cylinders and...

We have 3 dogs that spend most of their time chasing rabbits and chipmunks. Good point

Now that's an interesting idea. I have to talk to the control tower about that.

Yes, we've thought about that, problem is mud in the spring thaw and early fall rains. If I shovel/plow the snow off the grass, once it starts to warm up the path turns to mud, then we kill all the grass. We also have 3 goofy dogs that tear ass up and down these paths so it gets a lot of wear...

:D Good one I think zip lines only go one way though, I guess I need two.

We use mats to make paths for the horses so they don't fall on the ice. We put them down right before a freeze so they stick in place. We don't take them up until spring, we just keep putting more on top the next time there's an ice problem. But that gets pretty ugly looking and I don't think...

Sorry about your fall, we're trying to avoid the same thing. I could pour concrete but there is drainage across the path, so I'd have to incorporate small pipe culverts to let water flow under it. We also have 4 other paths I haven't shown to get to the goat house and turkey/chicken area. So...

This path out to our barn gets icier every year and we keep getting older. Looking for ideas on building some kind of raised wooden walkway that we can keep free of snow and ice. I'm thinking of building segments about 10' long and 3' wide out of deck planking that I can pick up and move with...

I just had my 3pt apart for a different reason so it's fresh in my mind. It took me 30 minutes to fix the problem and about 4 hours to remove things to get at it. It's easy to change the seals once you get access to the cylinder, but depending on how your tractor goes together it could be quite...

We had a 22kW generac natural gas installed about 7 years ago. That model had just come out and they had a promotion on it that made it cheaper than the 16kW model, so it was an easy choice. It had quite a few problems at first but the dealer was great and worked with Generac to get it...

We live near a company that makes animal feed, we go there and pick up bags because it's about $7 a bag cheaper than in the retail stores. It's not as cheap as buying bulk, but it's easy to handle and store 50# bags and saves enough money to help. They load a pallet of bags on our trailer.

I've had a series of Brownings, this is the latest: Browning Strike Force HD ProX BTC-5HDPX. I use a lightweight extension ladder and mount mine high enough in the tree that even if someone notices it, they probably don't have any way to get up there. I also don't use those crazy straps they...

That is a perfect sized tractor, I didn't even know CAT made tractor/backhoes like that.

Given that you didn't do anything to the pump and it was working fine before you changed the oil, I'd say that makes it unlikely there's anything wrong with the pump. My guess is a suction leak was created when you did the oil change. Could be the old filter gasket was left on so now there's...

Try rotating the motor slightly and take a few more resistance readings each time. If the readings fluctuate I'd suspect the brushes. You might be able to remove the brushes without taking the motor out. Once you get the brushes out, if they look to be in good shape, try to stick your probes...

Gently drive the QA into the bucket/spear to force the left side to move to the same position as the right side. Then curl back to pick it up. The reason they move at different rates with no load is because one side has a longer hose and probably one or two extra fittings to get from the valve...

I can't think of any more simple things to do. I'm thinking you need to get a pressure guage with the right fittings on it so you can T it into the system somewhere. Given the way it's plumbed, it's probably easiest to tap into the high pressure line coming into the loader valve body. Does the...

I'd start simpler than taking the hydraulic lines apart. Hopefully you checked the fluid level and that's OK. Remove all the quick disconnects, confirm all valve levers are in the neutral position (not detented), including any remote valves you may have. Then drive the tractor (I assume this is...

I just went through a similar problem flushing out debris after I trashed a part internal to the transmission. I bought a gallon can of WD40 and put it in a spray bottle like for cleaning windows and used that to wash and flush everything to the bottom where I could drain it or wipe it out on...

That's identical to the setup I have except it's a driveway and not a bridge. A couple questions 1. You have a latch between the two gates, is that the Ghost latch? If so does it keep the gates from being pushed open enough that a dog could sneak through the opening? 2. What size battery do you...

This is like when I bought a brand X car and had nothing but trouble with it from the day I bought it. Psychologically it's hard to ever go back and buy another brand X car even if they're making totally different cars now.

Great to know. I read on another forum that the guy who was the president of Mighty Mule started Ghost controls when the company got bought out. They claimed he made a lot of improvements because he knew the problems with Mighty Mule. Who knows if it's true, I read it on the internet.

Thanks Eddie, I like how you hung that 4' gate for people, wish I had thought of that before I set my gate posts. I'll check out Protech.

I'm looking for an automatic gate opener for a lightweight dual gate. I had a mighty mule years ago and had nothing but trouble with it in our cold climate (Chicago) due to thermal expansion in the mechanical components. I'm looking at Ghost Controls and USAutomatic, both have good reviews, and...

Excellent job narrowing down the problem. Can you post a picture of the solenoid and explain how you connect the jumpers that work. Depending on how you're connecting the jumpers that work, it sounds like you may have it narrowed down to the male connector/wire on the solenoid itself.

I was surprised to see kubota extended the 20% National Cutting Horse discount through the end of 2022.

Did some research on this, turns out there are manufacturing standards for when to change part numbers. I'd conclude from what I found that there is some material difference in the new oil filter I bought or they wouldn't have changed the part number. I can imagine if they want to use the same...

There's probably someone in the company whose job is to keep track of the part number change history. In order to increase the size of their department they continually change the part numbers.

I had always imagined that a company like Kubota might have one or more suppliers for the same part, so supplier A might call the part an X42C and supplier B calls the same part made to the same Kubota spec a Z72D, and when Kubota sells it to me they make up a part number like HH720-12345. I...

The part number for the hydraulic filters on my tractor have been superceded 3-4 times during the time I've owned it. Why do part numbers get updated, it looks like exactly the same filter from the outside. Are they different inside?

Messick's online parts diagram says there is a serial number break for the parts you've identified, so I'm guessing it was redesigned at some point. Did your dealer ask for your serial number to get the correct configuration? I'd try giving Messicks a call. Here's the parts list from their...

Does that work with children? Just the savings on milk could fund a nice retirement.

We've got 2 cats and the neighbor has 5. Maybe our cats are lazier or our mice are smarter.

Great info, didn't know that existed.

Mission accomplished, I forgot I had a short length of hose and a male QD left over from installing my rear remotes, so I went to the local hydraulics shop and got the rest of the parts. I even managed to use 2 of the dust covers I bought 10 years ago. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Yes, thanks, that is exactly what I was thinking.

I'll look into that, the hose might not be a bad idea to make it easier to hook up.

It's too cold to do anything outside, so I want to make a pressure tester. I'm thinking a T fitting with a female quick disconnect, a male QD, and a 5000psi pressure gauge. Before I do this, any handy tips on how to make it better or more useful.

Mice are a menace. I leave my tractor hood open all the time, the light and open space deters them a little. I check the radiator screen every time I use it. We've had no end of problems with mice, they chewed the wiring harness for the fuel injection system out of our car, that cost $700. Hope...

I share equipment with a neighbor. When I hook up an implement I attach the high pressure side and put the return line in a 5 gal pail and operate the valve until I either see a change in fluid color or estimate the right amount of fluid has been purged. Some implements like a post pounder go...

I have a larger machine but they look very similar to this:

I think a 4pt socket is the best idea, but I sometimes find a vise grip crescent works if there's room:

I take a picture of the receipt with my phone as soon as I buy something. I may have to dig through 1000 christmas and cat pictures to find it but I know somewhere I've got a copy of that receipt.

If cables and battery check good, it could be a heat soaked starter. Is there a heat shield that's missing that could cause the starter to be exposed to more heat than normal? If the starter gets too hot or is going bad, the higher temp can raise the internal resistance of the windings and it...

OK I get it. As long as you can get the cap end free, could you rebuild the cylinder without removing the rod end from the machine?

The drift cutters on my blower are about 18" above the deck. The taller you make them, the stronger the material you'll need. They need to be strong in both directions (forward/back and side to side), mine are stamped out of steel so they have strength sideways but still act like a knife to get...

I have a lift, very similar design except you have the benefit of a grease fitting. It looks like there is a safety roll pin still in the shoulder that goes through that pin, or is that part of the grease fitting? I'm sure you're smart enough to notice a safety pin, but I can't figure out what...

No, there's positive pressure on the return side of the valve, that's why you see a leak. The only place there's negative pressure is between the pump and the tank.

I agree and I'd go one step further. Just reinstall the original filter if you have it. I had a filter that was manufactured incorrectly- the threaded hole wasn't perpendicular to the face of the filter so no matter how tight you made it, it would never seal. Fortunately that was on the high...

You'd probably do better posting this in the John Deere Owning and Operating forum. But I can make one suggestion. There's a damper between the pedal and the transmission. If that damper goes bad the tractor will jerk and buck when you try to go forward or backward. So if you find that damper...

I think you make a good point. Tires are normally filled ~80% so if the tractor starts to roll that fluid in the bottom 80% of the tire starts to slosh into the top 20% of the space that's normally just air. Especially the fluid in the tire on the "top" side of the tractor. Makes an already bad...

Thanks, nice to see what the cross section looks like. I took the old ones apart but didn't know how the overcenter valve body came apart. I'll try taking that apart sometime and look inside. There's a lot more inside these valves than I appreciated.

I routinely have to move trailers around and a ballast box has to be removed to do that. Here's the ballast I made, I don't have to remove it to tow a trailer and it allows me to clearly see to hook up.

If you read this thread, it covers many thoughts on how to fix a hydraulic line.

Old valves, no manufacturer info on the valve, hard to tell a zero from an O. What's with these long part numbers, there aren't that many stars in the universe: Check valve: 1H0403 4CKX22073 01 Overcenter: 1H05 410 E30F35S5 Here's a photo of the old valves: I didn't get the numbers off the new...

Country Companies has policies and extensions that cover "estate farms", which are farms that don't produce revenue, which I would call a hobby farm. We have our insurance through them and all my equipment is covered under that extension to my normal homeowners. It covers pretty much everything...

I'll take a look and let you know, the outside is pretty covered with paint and crud. The new ones came in Eaton bags, I assume the old ones were also Eaton.

I finished the top of the building, but didn't manage to get the ends on before it got too cold. I'll finish next year but at least it keeps the snow off. It's 72x34', it's a ClearSpan from Farmtek. We also have a larger fabric building that my wife uses for a horse arena. We've had it for 9...

Success. I replaced the over center valve and that solved 2 of the 3 problems. The shuddering stopped and it no longer drifted. However it still did not remain level when descending. So I replaced the check valve and that fixed that problem. Both of the old valves looked like brand new when I...

They make suction cup mounts for LED lights, might even be possible to mount it inside the cab so the light is right against the glass if the reflections aren't too bad on the window. Tractors are all heading in the direction of less metal and more plastic, some don't even have metal hoods...

+1 I find my headlights useless, they only come on when my pants get caught on the light switch when I get off the tractor. I keep my magnetic ones mounted on the rops, I can point them both directions if I'm backing up, and use them as searchlights when I'm out trying to find the horses.

@Jofang OK thanks. I do plan to change the fluid and filter once I'm sure this problem is fixed. The machine has 2 pumps, the electric pump lives in the reservoir, the gas engine pump lives outside. I've never opened the reservoir, it's a real pain. So I suck it out with an oil vacuum. I...

But isn't there always pressure in that circuit? The only path back to tank is through those 145 bar reliefs. If I actuate the manual valve I guess that would relieve the pressure through the directional valve and back to tank.

Thanks @Jofang, the machine was made in 2005, doesn't have an hour meter. It was a rental for the first 8 years of its life, then I bought it. So it probably had a lot of use the first 8 years and now it only gets used probably 40-50 hours a year. I think I'm ready to try replacing those valves...

@Jofang I agree terminology can be a problem, I've cutout the cage leveling circuit so we can focus on it and agree on terminology: In the above schematic, #20 is called an over center valve on the drawing, but it's called a load valve in the parts list. On our side of the pond it's also...

Thanks for the input, do you have any reason to suspect the check valve rather than the over center valve (also called a load valve in the parts list)?

For everyone still keeping score, I called tech support at Nifty Lift, surprised to get a guy who really seems to know his stuff. The guy said a bad load valve on the cage cylinder fits all my symptoms. He said if the system were sucking so much air that the problem returns after a few hours, I...

I found the 145 bar reliefs, they are both attached to the valve body that manually operates the leveling cylinder. My pencil is pointing to one of them, the other one is on the opposite side of the valve: I also discovered that the knuckle cylinder and cage cylinder are T'd together in front...

I'm going to watch a few videos on how over center valves work. It's been awhile since I had a hydraulics class and the only thing I remember is how basic PO check valves work. I also have to keep looking for the 145 bar reliefs. I can't do it with the mast raised but that's what I do to purge...

I'd like to continue to pursue oldnslo idea that the problem is related to one of the control components in the leveling circuit not working properly, or leaking. Even if it eventually ends up being air, at least I'll understand how this thing works. As far as the suction system, I've had a...

I agree it's crazy there aren't more grease fittings. Some of my cylinders do have some kind of non metallic bushing around the pins that were probably intended to eliminate the need for lubrication. I've oiled all my pins and pivots with oil on a regular basis. I think my lift must have had a...

The only time the leveling circuit is connected to the pump is when I manually actuate the leveling valve. If you look at the hydraulic schematic, the way that valve works is it connects the knuckle cylinder to the cage cylinder when it's in the neutral position. It's isolated from the pump in...

It's hard mounted to the cylinder, I've attached two pages out of parts manual that shows it. I think it's in the block that's mounted right to the cylinder. I've looked through the parts manual, can't find it called out anywhere specific so must be part of the same block shown on attached...

I've seen this model lift when it's new (they still make it), the suction plumbing is all original except that piece of hose that has the loop in it. The filter and housing are OEM. I believe all hoses are original except the goofy loop hose.

Did some testing, to force the cage leveling cylinder to extend I used a ratchet strap attached to my tractor bucket to pull on the top of the cage: I attached a strap to the lift to force the cylinder to retract: I put a piece of painters tape on the rod so I could see what was happening...

The loop is goofy, I bought this from a rental place. I'm guessing that's their handy work.

Yes, I can put a jack under the edge of the cage and raise it slowly. I think I can tell when the cage weight is neutralized so I can see if the cylinder is compressing air.

Yes, only the cage cylinder moves, the manual circuit has no effect on the knuckle cylinder. And yes, it's possible there's an air pocket in the knuckle cylinder that is only partially being displaced. Yes, that's correct. You can confirm that in the photo I posted of the knuckle cylinder. That...

It is British, the company is in the UK but sold all over the world. They're popular because there's no electronics, everything is hydraulic. Yes, I thought about temp change of the air causing the tilt. I normally use it when the temps are pretty moderate, generally 40-80F. The oil I have in...

Yes, seems like that's what has to be happening. I'll look at that today. I live right in the middle of a triangle of hydraulic shops, so I should be able to find some way to get a gauge on it. I never noticed the manometer. Maybe there's a fitting to connect a guage, there's no guages on it...

Yes, good memory, the last thread was asking for help understanding how the leveling system worked because I had no clue where to even start working on it. It also gave me more time to experiment and make sure I understood what was really happening. Now it's cold outside, so I've got it in the...

No I think that's always true. I suppose if the lift were raised to it's highest vertical position so that the cage cylinder were fully extended and I leaned out the front of the basket, the load might be trying to make the cylinder extend, but 99% of the time the load is trying to retract it...

To help visualize things, here's the lift: The knuckle cylinder is behind where my finger is pointing: Here's the knuckle cylinder: And here's the cage cylinder, I manually rolled the cage forward to make it more visible:

Yes When the knuckle extends the cage retracts. Ok, thanks, that's on the edge of my hydraulic understanding, let me research that a bit to see if I understand it. The only reason I made that guess is because the manual says that the way to purge air from the system is to cycle the cage...

These aren't lift cylinders, there is no up or down and there's almost no loading. If you read this article , it does a nice job explaining how leveling cylinders work. Also a leaking seal is not consistent with the symptoms I described. Bleeding the air out of the cylinder would not correct the...

Is it possible to pressurize a hydraulic system to some low value to help locate a leak in the suction lines? I was thinking of fabricating a cap for the oil reservoir that will have a shrader valve in it so I can hook a compressor to it and put some low pressure (5-10psi?) in the system to find...

Here's a company that rebuilds tractor ECMs, they indicate they do Kubota. Be interesting to see what they charge for your ECM.

Tractordata.com says it holds 5.5gal. Do you have quick disconnects on your loader? If you do, sometimes if one isn't really connected it can cause a problem like this. I'd try disconnecting and reconnecting all the quick disconnects and make sure they feel like they're properly seated.

The data sheet for low viscosity hygard shows it is 7.4cSt @ 100C which converts to SAE 19.9W oil, and it's 33cSt @ 40C which is about SAE 11W oil. So the engine oil you used is a bit too thick at low temps but is right on the money once the oil gets hot. So I'm not sure the oil you used caused...

take a teaspoon of the old fluid and heat it with a torch. If it pops and sizzles like bacon frying that's water. If not, it was probably air.

I'd go on Messick's parts diagram and see what they call out for that fitting. You can tell if the bolt was designed for an o-ring by looking for a relief space machined into some part of the assembly. An o-ring should only be compressed a small percentage of it's thickness, it can't be...

So for clarity, you noticed your hydrauiic oil looked dirty brown (like it does now in the pop bottle) and decided to change it. After changing it, the machine sat outside for 2 weeks, maybe got rained on, and after 2 hours of operation the oil looks like the stuff in that pop bottle? I'm...

Do you have a water cooled heat exchanger for your fluid? If you let it set, does the water separate and go to the bottom of the sump, or does the fluid stay looking scummy.

I had a battery blow up like that because the manufacturer left a piece of plastic flashing blocking the vent hole for one of the cells. As the battery charged the pressure would build but it didn't blow until a year or so later when it went through a long charging cycle and the pressure built...

If there wasn't power to the back of the fuse block there would be other things not working, so that doesn't seem to fit the symptom. I would do more diagnosis on your own first. For grins I'd stick a new fuse in that location, it's unlikely but occasionally fuses get a cold joint. Find the fuse...

Examples of non petroleum bases used for hydraulic fluids include water, canola oil, propylene glycol, olefins, esthers, and silicone oils. There's a big push to use environmentally friendly and biodegradable fluids in tractors and marine applications, so we'll probably start to see canola oil...

The major difference is that hydraulic oil is flammable, hydraulic fluid is not (or nearly not). The difference has gotten blurry because there are fire resistant petroleum based products. In WW2 they had problems with hydraulic oil used on planes and ships starting on fire when they had a leak...

If you create an account on Messick's site you can access the online parts catalog. I've attached the page for your tractor, part 010 is the adapter you're looking for. It looks like the adapter for your model tractor is designed to mate directly with the kubota remote valve bodies. So if you...

Is the parking brake on? Is the range selection lever in the correct position? Is the 4wd lever firmly in one position or the other? Did it do this when your stepdad owned it, or did this happen after you transported it to your house? I assume it's a hydrostatic transmission....

Kubota website still shows the 20% discount for NCHA members. That brings list prices below where they were prior to 2 years ago before this discount began. I'm guessing dealers no longer offer anything on top of that 20%, I know my dealer was giving an extra 5% before the covid thing started...

An old joke is how many times do you have to rebuild a carburetor before you have enough spare parts left over to build a second carburetor. When I rebuilt the valves on a piece of equipment the kit had so many extra parts I called the dealer, he said they had no idea why there were so many...

I use my go pro camera. I already had it and it works with my phone as the monitor. We also use it in the horse trailer and watch on a tablet in the car. Lots of mount accessories available for go pro and video quality is good.

I chose to do mine myself because I wanted the valves in a different location than the OEM setup. I also wanted one valve that I don't think kubota offered for my tractor at the time, a 3 position detent. It's also nice to be able to make your own hoses so you can route them where you want...

Make sure fuel solenoid is working. Take a meter and see if you have 12v at the terminals. If not could be one of the safety switches isn't happy.

When the ground is still thawed I raise the front edge of my blower so I don't pick up any gravel. Once that top layer freezes I can treat it just like concrete for the rest of the season.

I've fixed a lot of plastic stuff with this UV welder. I've never used it on anything with the kind of mechanical forces your support will probably see, but if all else fails it might be worth a try. Here's a youtube video of a product being used to weld a plastic Kubota radiator, looks like it...

The hydraulic chute rotation part number is B2774. I tried to find a front blower for my B2710 last winter, talked to quite a few dealers and only found one that had all the parts, that was Titan Machinery in Aberdeen, SD. It was $6800 and had the electric chute deflector. That was too far for...

Mowers have belts. It may sound like things are coming to a dead stop, but it's hard to imagine a belt not slipping a small bit before the driveline snaps or the engine is damaged.

I use my dump trailer in the field a lot behind the tractor, it doesn't get charged at all so I carry an extra battery. If it goes dead I switch. But that only happens if I'm picking up brush or something light that causes me to cycle the dump a lot. If you have to go to the quarry to get stone...

It is strange, some things have really gone up, other things not at all. I just bought a couple loads of gravel, same price as in 2018 from same guy delivering it. Anything made out of steel is way up. But I bought some conveyor belt material and it's about the same as I paid 5 years ago. Some...

I just noticed this sticking you mentioned. That could be a bur on the spool that's preventing it from moving all the way.

OK, didn't realize valves were in a cab, I thought they'd been outdoors since 1975. Just to be sure what you did to diagnose this, did you switch a different valve to this same cylinder, or did you just reverse the hoses? If you didn't do it, just as a double dog check I would connect this valve...

I've fixed a number of different front axles, it's pretty straight forward because everything is in the open. You might need to press a bearing, but any shop can do that for you if you don't have a press. It couldn't be the axle snapping or the wheel would fall off. Hard to guess what it is...

If you have a welding outlet you could get a cheap electric heater. I have two 5000w space heaters, one in a welding outlet one in an air compressor outlet.

Just saying that has cursed any chance of then coming out easily.

I'd try a pipe wrench, but soak it good for a few days. Depending on what you plan to do next with that valve, you could try heat on it.

The other thing, since it's so old, if you remove the valve lever and take the top boot off, inspect the condition of the spool where it enters the valve body. If it's built up rust over the years that might be preventing the spool from moving all the way into the body.

Ok I'd suspect the valve. I'd drop the bottom cup, it's usually held on with 4 cap screws, you can probably get at it without dismounting the valve. If that's a detente valve all kinds of little bearings and springs may fall out, be ready. If it's full of crap that's probably the problem, but...

I was thinking about your symptom, it could be that there is rust or crud in the bottom cup of the valve body so the spool can't move all the way in one direction but moves freely in the other. You might be able to tell by comparing the valve lever movement in one direction with the other.

It's best to back drag with the heel of the bucket rather than the front edge. Can't do any damage that way. I think it says that somewhere in the loader manual if I recall.

Check the quick disconnects first, that's cheap and easy. If that doesn't help, try switching the hoses for retract and extend and see if the problem follows the hose or the cylinder.

When I cut tall grass I have to clean the grill vents every 30 minutes or so. The grill knocks the seed heads off the weeds and grass and fills up the vents. You might also try turning the pto shaft by hand to make sure the bush hog drive train and blades are moving freely. My engine runs really...

Glad you got it working, do we get part of the $7000?

Did you look closely at the old gasket? If it's not abraded or torn, the only thing I can think of is there was a piece of crud under the gasket and when you removed the old filter it got cleaned off. It would be interesting to cut that filter open and see if the filter element was clogged. If...

It sounds like you would be better off with a skid steer or a compact telehandler. I've been looking at telehandlers as an alternative to buying a larger tractor. They'll lift 3500-5000#, raise it 15-20 feet, and extend the boom 8-12'. They'll take any quick attach implement, there just isn't...

The fuel issue is probably because you don't have power to the fuel shutoff solenoid. Once you get that box replaced the fuel problem will probably be fixed too.

You haven't indicated if you've tested the battery. If it's good, go to the main fuse and see if there's 12v coming in and going out. If there is go to the fuse box and see of there is 12v on the buss. If there is, find a fuse that has 12v coming out and try the devices on that circuit.

I used to rent an L45 and an L35 all the time, they're great machines. If the bushings are worn and the boom was bent on a machine with only 700 hours I'd think twice. Some day the world will return to normal and you'll have a much better selection of used machines.

I believe the technical term is metal thingy that goes in the groove. Maybe it's called a style if that's what's on the parts list, but I never heard that before. The hard part is getting the old one out. There should be a short piece of the rod bent over that you can straighten and use to pull...

When you remove the cap you'll see a groove that has a piece of wire in it that holds the assembly in the cylinder. That piece of copper goes in that groove. Go to 1:55 in this video, the guy talks about it.

I might try that. Some of the hoses are 50' long, and besides being expensive it will be a bugger to thread a new hose through the boom arms with the fittings crimped on. I replace hoses when I notice a puddle forming on the floor, so far I've only had to replace the outrigger hoses and they...

Yeah, I feel confident trying to solve the other problems now that I'm sure how it works. It has two pumps, one is electric driven and it's inside the tank. But the gas engine driven pump is external and has about 3-4' of suction hoses and the filter/housing. Maybe this winter I'll pull those...

So now I understand what's going on, I also found where the leveling cylinder and knuckle cylinder are T'd together so it all fits with the schematic. Maybe I should start a new thread, but the problem I have is an ongoing need to purge air through the leveling cylinder, so I assume the system...

Ok, I found the knuckle cylinder by tracing hydraulic line. It's behind the label I'm pointing to in this photo. And here's the cylinder in it's hiding place.

I agree, I've never understood what the knuckle cylinder is. I agree that ram 1 and ram 2 correspond to cylinder A and B in the diagram I posted. That's the only possibility since they are connected to the valves in the cage. It looks to me in that diagram that the only thing controlling the...

Here's the controls layout, the lever labeled boom corresponds to cylinder A in the diagram I posted above, the lever labeled arm corresponds to cylinder B. You can't see it in the photo, but there's a small lever that allows manual operation of the leveling cylinder. Inline with my toe at the...

I'll take a picture today, but I can control those cylinders separately. There's a valve for cylinder A, a valve for cylinder B, and a valve for the basket cylinder (there's also valves for slew and telescope, but they don't enter into this). That's what has me confused, I want to look at what's...

Wow, so I've owned this lift for 10 years and don't really understand how it works. Tomorrow I'm going to stare at what's really happening when I work the different cylinders. Thanks for all the help.

Great article. I am embarrassed to say I now think there is a small cylinder somewhere I haven't noticed, maybe that's the one called the knuckle cylinder. I'll check tomorrow morning, thanks.

Yes there is a manual valve for basket, and it is how the air is purged. How did you it will purge air just by looking at diagram? I only knew that because the manual explains it.

OK I'm getting closer to enlightenment. Here's a diagram from the manual: When I move either cylinder A or cylinder B, the basket gets out of level. The leveling cylinder is under the basket. How do cylinders A and B interact with the leveling cylinder to keep the basket level?

I think you've got the answer but I can't quite understand how it works on my lift. You're saying that on your tractor that small cylinder above the boom cylinder has its input and output connected to the curl cylinder, so when the boom cylinder raises, the small cylinder is extended and forces...

Thanks for all the replies, here's some more info. It's a Nifty Lift TM34T. Hydrauilc circuit is attached. Here's pictures of the leveling cylinder with the cage rolled forward so you can see it:

I have this aerial lift. I'm trying to figure out how the hydraulics that control the operator cage leveling work. As the cage is raised or lowered by the boom, there is a small hydraulic cylinder directly under the cage that extends or retracts to keep the cage level. The operation is...

There's a frame alignment place near me that will fix stuff like that, not sure if you could find somthing like that near you. They repair semi trailers, damaged frames on ambulances and police cars, etc. They'd be able to help figure out what's actually bent and they'd have the tools to...

Perfect, I found this one for $105 on Amazon, just the ticket. tnx

They look like this: Clearspan Wire rope stretches a lot, it's considered an elastic member. That's why it's used in applications that need to move around a lot without permanently deforming.

I'm putting up a fabric hoop building, they use wire rope and turnbuckles for diagonal bracing. How tight should the wire rope be? I've looked online and can't find any info, the instructions don't say. I'm thinking it should be like a fan belt, where they tell you how far you should be able to...

The hydraulic diagram will be in the service manual, not your owner's manual. You can probably figure it out if you go to an online dealer that posts the parts diagrams. By looking at the hydraulic parts diagram you can figure out where in the circuit the filters are.

Do you have a hydraulic diagram? When there are 2 filters typically one is used to filter the transmission circuit and the other is used for everything else. It would help to know where in the circuit that filter is located. So you're saying that you have good enough visibility to be sure the...

The filter on most tractors is on the suction side of the system, do you know if that's true on yours? If it is, it's hard to explain why it would be leaking more under load. Are you 100% sure it's the filter that's leaking? Is it possible the filter got whacked by something like a branch? Since...

I remember when they began putting starters on motorcycles and for years there were people who insisted the pre starter models were more reliable, didn't have all that extra electrical stuff to fail, blah blah. I think that characterizing technical advancements as a problem looks misguided when...

They give you a chemical analysis and an interpretation of the results. So for example, when I sent in transmission fluid from our minivan, they told me it was just showing signs of needing to be changed but I could probably run it another year. They tell you if they find different traces of...

Send a sample to Blackstone labs, that looks unusually dark in my experience.

The system is sucking air. If you changed the filter, that's your prime suspect. Either there's an extra gasket or it's not tight enough, or something.

Not sure how much you want to do it yourself, but there's lots of places to buy the latch and mounting plates as components. There are youtube videos about adapting the components to your tractor's pin layout.

Great idea, I lost the toolbox space under the seat on my tractor when I put in a suspension seat. I might try this. I think I'd put a threaded cap/plug on one end of the tube and leave the pipe intact.

I have a similar situation, my neighbor and i share a post pounder and I use expensive Kubota oil. When I first hook up the pounder to my machine, instead of putting the return hose which normally goes straight to dump, I put it in a 5 gal bucket and watch for the color of the fluid to change...

I had a similar situation but smaller building, I dug the holes deep, that's required here anyway for frost heave. Not sure what your weather is there but on the edges of that built up area the frost is going to penetrate sideways quite a ways. I added about 12" of CA6 (gravel mix) to be the...

I just did some damage to teeth on the ring gear on back axle, I took a hand stone and polished the edges smooth. I couldn't remove the gear without a ton of work, so I saturated paper towels with WD40 and laid them around the teeth to catch any grit. Looks like you can do the work off the...

I bought one of those about 20 years ago, I've probably tried it a dozen times and when I'm done I still have a plugged fitting but now I have a big mess too. They sure look good in the advertisement video.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I guess the bottom line is I need a bigger hammer. My neighbor has a pretty aggressive spike tooth harrow, I'm going to borrow that and see how it goes. It's easy to pile a lot of weight on the top of it the way he made it, so I should be able to get pretty...

We put limestone screenings in our horse arena years ago and in spite of going over it with a landscape rake fairly regularly, it's gradually packed so hard it's almost like concrete. I can break it into large pieces with a lot of effort with my bucket, but it's slow going and then I have huge...

Are you saying the tractor went dead while you were using it, or you parked it for the night and the next day it wouldn't start? If it failed while you were using it, that's not the battery. If the battery went dead overnight, that might be the battery. If you have a multimeter, next time you...

I have float on my top cylinder for when I bush hog, it lets the front of the mower move up and down. I have one remote with a detent for on position. I use that for things like a post pounder or log splitter where I'm on the ground with something that has it's own hydraulic control. So of my 3...

There has to be a vent somewhere. My guess is someone put in the wrong fill plug and the fill hole happens to be in a spot where oil is getting thrown against it, like maybe by a spinning gear. Ask the dealer/manufacturer where the vent is if it's not supposed to be in the filler plug. Then you...

Single acting cylinders condense moisture in the end of the cylinder that never sees oil. That's why it's better to store them in the position that makes that volume as small as possible.

You need an open center valve. I bought mine at Surplus Center, you can save a lot of money but you need to fabricate a mount and do the fittings and hoses yourself. Think about what you want to do with the valve so you know whether to get it with detents and float. I added 3 valves, two for a...

Before you buy the seal kit you might want to take the cylinder apart and check the condition of the walls and tube. Sometimes you can get condensation inside a cylinder and that can cause rust or corrosion that tears the seal. If that's the case, a new seal kit won't solve the problem without...

Didn't know these existed. I just bought a 3/8" torque wrench not long ago, would rather have had one of these. Less space in the tool box and easier to adapt to hard to reach areas.

I got mine at local hydraulic shop. I described my problem and he suggested these. They were only $15, cheapest thing I ever bought at a hydraulics place.

I added these ball valves to my remotes, they only cost about $15 and solved the same problem you're having. I used surplus center valves that also leak down fast. I use float on the top link when I bush hog. So if I want to use a remote I open the ball and leave it that way until I'm doing...

Your soil looks almost as rocky as mine. You have my condolences.

I went back and read all the threads on these things. I was finally sold when I saw the bush hog mounted on the front. I've seen these on construction sites but had no idea how useful they would be for my applications. I've been shopping/thinking about a larger tractor because I need more lift...

Walmart carries type F under their brand name Supertech. It would be hard to find anything cheaper and if that's what it calls for, I'd head to Walmart.

I was using bush hog on a trail thru the forest, brushing up against trees but nothing heavy. All of a sudden the tractor goes to idle and won't go any faster. Can't figure out what's wrong, pop the hood. A small branch had poked through one of those little screen covered openings in the side...

I see a bush hog, but where's the grass?

Rewelding the ends on a new aftermarket cylinder shouldn't need much precision, unless I'm not picturing this right. If you have a portaband you can cut the ends off and take it to a welding shop, they should be able to get it close enough by squaring up the old end with the new cylinder tube...

Yeah, pounders are great. I'll never use an auger for posts again. My neighbor hooks the pounder supply up to one of the ports on his FEL, and uses a bungee cord to hold the lever. That way he can use the 3pt. I have a set of remotes on mine so it's easier. A top and tilt really helps with post...

Big ditto on the manual transmission for what OP describes. Also cheaper than any of the other transmission types, especially HST. And if it ever needs work, chances are you can figure it out yourself. Other transmission types add considerable complexity when you're trying to debug problems...

The best solution I've found for things I have to leave out in the field is to open them completely, hood up, remove any panels that come off easily, provide LED light at night. Mice hate light and visibility. As you've discovered never use any material that supports a mouse nest. I use low...

They make 3pt hay spears. If you lose too much capacity on FEL, you could always lift the bales on the back.

You can get Kubota original parts from Messick's for $150. Or take it to a hydraulic shop and get it for a lot less.

Same thing with my 2710. I've looked at the parts diagram, it's just a tube that comes off the side of the transmission. Maybe the air heats up and expands and pushes the fluid down out of the tube.

If it's like my gutters, you'll have little maple trees growing out the oil filler hole in about 2 weeks.