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You could probably get away with putting a plate like a skid plate under the frame where the wind from the fan gets through to the ground. I would also angle and/or extend the exhaust pipe so it does not point to the ground.

We would need more information about your hydraulic set up to be able to diagnose over the internet. Do you have electronic valves controlling the hydraulics?? Pictures always help as well!!

LD1, you mentioned you had an ordeal a few years back and the engine was not rebuildable. Was that engine in your MX5100?? What was the cause of the engine failure??

Thanks for the update. Happy tracoring!!

Perhaps if you showed us some pictures we might be able to provide some suggestions.

Agreed. Your machine should be designed to handle that sort of situation. Did you ever check the pressure of the hydraulics to see if it is within specifications? Also wondering if you have put a different bucket on other than what came with the backhoe?

If you have air leaks in the intake line the fluid usually turns foamy and looks light or whitish in color because of all the tiny bubbles in there. The bubbles will slowly dissipate so you would need to check fluid soon after shut down. To check pressure you need to have a hydraulic pressure...

Was wondering if a pressure test was ever performed on either machine? Could be pressure relief valve malfunction or set too high. Or could just be soft metal used in the rod.

Could it be linkage/cable for shifter needs adjusting?

You should be able to tell if the cylinder is bent by running a straight edge along the outside of the cylinder. If the rod is bent it would have to be quite bent in order to not extend. Are you sure you have full hydraulic pressure running to the cylinder?

Not sure which housing and linkage you are talking about? Pictures would certainly help along with a better explanation of what was taken out by the stump. Oil should not be pressurized at the filter. Sounds like something was hooked up incorrectly...??

Pictures always help!! Show us what you are dealing with and I'm sue we can come up with some recommendations.

After changing the hydraulic fluid and filters + screen the last time did the fluid come out nice and clean? How is the 3 point hitch hydraulics acting? Next step would be to check hydraulic pressure, if the fluid is clean, to see if the pump is functioning properly.

Do a google search for Woods backhoes. Not sure of the pricing though. I would personally go for the Kioti backhoe, it has a better chance of being matched to the machine and if you have problems with it you are just dealing with one manufacturer. Tends to make things easier. You definitely...

It all depends on the terrain and the risk you are willing to take on hills. If you are operating on flat ground the risk of a rollover is very slight to non-existant. Plenty of peopple have survived hilly landscape without rops as well. The older tractors did not have rollover protection and...

There are some youtube videos on injector pump repair. There are some very fiddly parts (for lack of better description) that need to go in exact position. Have a look and see if you are up to the task.

We will definitely need more information. Not sure by what you mean "jumping"? Do you mean intermittent hydraulic pressure? How many hours on the machine? Is it a geared or hydrostatic transmission? Have the hydraulic fluid and filters been regularly changed? When you drained the hydraulic fluid...

I am curious as to why you would use an oil extractor??

Some pictures would certainly help us give you some suggestions on how to fix.

If the bolt is being sheared off then my guess would be that the pin is bent or there is something out of alignment. Does the pin move back and forth with no load and slight tapping with a hammer? Perhaps try a new pin and see what happens.

I believe the zero turn is hydrostatic. That means there are at least two dipsticks. I don't mean to be insulting but is it possible you may have checked the wrong dipstick? I just can't imagine oil showing on the stick and then nothing in the pan. Unless there is residual oil in the dipstick...

Congratulations on a nice older tractor!! Might you be willing to post some pics of it.. We tractor folk love to see photos!!

Only loosen the bolts that hold the injectors and then turn the engine over by hand to build pressure and it should pop the injector out. Hopefully this helps!!

I believe the OP is wanting to decouple. I would remove the QD from the hoses and have a better look at what might be going on. Could be just jammed somehow. Might be time for new connectors..??

Thanks for letting us know and glad you got it all sorted!!

I have never liked pneumatic tires on a mower. My landpride is 30+ years old and still has original solid rubber tires. I would recommend trying to find solid tires.

I would definitely get that tractor. Nice smooth six cylinder. It will likely still be running long after the computer crapped out in your new tractor.... Not a fan of the electronics.

You may have something going on with the hydraulic pump or it may be just seals in the 3 point hitch piston which is in the case under the seat. Those older fords are usually pretty easy to work on.

The position control lever raises and lowers the position of the 3 point hitch. The other lever you speak of is called draft control.

I have Landpride. 4000 pound rated with 48 inch forks. The forks are adjustable side to side but fixed at the bottom. I prefer the forks fixed at the bottom because it allows me to dig down into the earth or other things if I need to. Loose at the bottoms is easier for picking up pallets. The...

If it is leaking fuel then the issues is likely higher up. Very unlikely to have fuel leaking from the shim area because that is lubricated with oil. Like thepumpguy said it is probably coming from under the barrel flanges. There are O rings in there that could be leaking. Or the high pressure...

Could also be bad injectors.

Is it leaking oil or fuel? The easiest is to check that the mounting bolts are torqued to the proper setting. If they are and it is still leaking then you may have to remove the pump and clean or possibly replace the shims. You have to get the same ones exactly or it will change the timing of...

I checked youtube and fownd some videos and it looks like your diagram is correct.

Personally I would just fill it up with fresh oil and run it for a bit and do a drain and fill a couple of times till the oil looks clean. Fix the water leak and check oil condition often.

I would suspect the control valve. Either internal damage or debris? Something loose or disconnected in the linkage?

Some very interesting information here!! Glad you got it sorted!! Thanks for letting us know what you did!!

Without pictures and further descriptions it is difficult to figure out over the internet. You might need to contacted Woods and Kubota to figure out which exact parts you are lacking and go from there.

If the cylinder is leaking down when extended and there are no external leaks then it is likely the control valve that is leaking internally.

Did you switch both diverter valves over to backhoe mode?

It all depends on what you will do with the machine. If you are mainly doing trenching then it might not be all that important to be able to swing 180 degrees. However if you are doing some projects that are in tighter spaces that extra 20 degrees on either side can make all the difference. If...

I like the idea of the fan cooled seat pad in the link.. Had a real good chuckle at "Any kind of 12v butt fan insert" suggestion. Conjured up some rather painful images!! Haha

I also operate on fairly steep slopes and have found that keeping the hydraulic fluid about a quarter inch above the full mark, or at least to the max height, helps to keep the pump fed with oil.

Thank you all for your feedback!! It definitely looks like tractor blood. Grease from the front end could be a possibility. Though it would have to travel a fair bit. I will have to find some time to check. My axle oil is not dyed. Switched to 80w90 from UDT. Definitely not water. It is oil...

Thank you for your reply but I do not use off-road diesel. Always get my fuel from top tier gas station.

A general rule is to always park your hydraulics so that there is no pressure remaining in the system. If you leave the pressure on it will always have a tendency to leak past the valves and or seals to relieve pressure. Over time this leak down becomes worse.

Thank you for your reply DonRybak and your suggestion is a good one, although I am quite certain it is a mechanically actuate clutch.

Are you sure the lift pump is working? Have you checked all fuses?

Lift pump is usually fairly easy and the first thing to check. It is also the cheapest to replace. If it is the lift pump you can either replace with a factory one or run an electrical line and replace with an electric pump. you would then have to seal off the spot where the original mounted to...

This post might come in handy for someone else experiencing the same problem.

Thanks for letting us know what the problem was. Glad you got it all sorted.

I would then check all the safety switches to see if any of them are faulty.

I would be sure to check the fuel lift pump (if equipped) first. It is the easiest and cheapest to fix of the three.

Oh. My mistake. I thought you were mounting them on a backhoe or excavator digging bucket.

My MX4700DT front wheel assisted tractor seems to have a slow leak at the bell housing pin that sticks out at the bottom. The thing that I find a little perplexing is that the fluid has a red tinge to it much like transmission fluid. It does not look like engine oil, it is far too clean for...

Ok. Thanks for the clarification. Glad to hear he got it all resolved without too much expense!!

Those are replaceable teeth. The mount is almost always welded onto the bucket. Welds can usually be ground off and the mounts replaced by welding new ones on. I personally would not go with those teeth since we have a lot of rocks here. If your soil is mostly rock free then you might be ok. I...

I have tried to reread the posts but am not sure where these micro switches are that you speak of. I am getting older so please bear with me. Could you please clarify?

You'll have to determine if it is diesel or hydraulic fluid getting into the engine oil. The 3 main culprits are usually fuel lift pump, injector pump or hydraulic pump.

I am willing to bet that any tractor in that size range that you pay $3,500 on will need some type of work. Anything newer will cost more and anything with electronics on it will be more complicated and therefore more of a pain to deal with. If you like the tractor and think it will serve your...

Good luck and let us know how it goes!! I really like those older tractors.

Sorry I can not help with the part number but here is a link that might interest you. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/kubota-bt650-750-swing-solution.32620/ Or you could possibly convert to completely manual operation and take out the auto return. Not exactly sure how that...

Not sure how to remove the radio since I don't know your tractor model well enough but usually you remove the trim piece that surrounds the radio and then you might need special key tools to remove the specific brand or just start removing screws that hold the bracket in. As long as the tractor...

Glad you were able to figure it out!! And thank you for sharing your process!! Always invaluable for others to reference.. Is the hydraulic fluid nice and clear now?

It is really hard to diagnose the problem over the internet without a lot more detail. I would not trust the guy that is selling you the tractor. The older model tractors are generally fairly easy to work on. Here is a series of videos on the ford series of tractors like yours. Hope this helps!!

Just something to keep in mind is that lift capacity is rated at the rear lift arm ends. The further the weight moves out from those ends the more stress is placed on the tractor. I had a JD 1070 that was similar in horse power and weight to yours and it's max lift capacity was around 2000...

Noticing leaks in the return line can be tricky. They are not under pressure so you may not see leaking. When the pump is drawing fluid from the the transmission case negative pressure is being created in the line and can therefore draw in air. Again this is just one of the things to try and...

There are special pumps that have a fitting to connect to the radiator where the cap is.

If you have bubbles developing in the hydraulic fluid it is usually an indication that there is a leak somewhere and typically in the return line to the hydraulic pump. Just a suggestion at this point without having any further details.

Thanks for letting us know!!

According to Tractordata the 404 is around a mid to high 30s horsepower tractor and only weighs 3,260 pounds. I would not want to try lifting more than 2,000 pounds at the rear. Just my 2 cents.

Adding an anti-gel when temperatures drop can never hurt. I usually add a little every time I get fuel.

My apologies Reddogs for misunderstanding but I am still a little perplexed.. Are you saying that the category 1 three point hitch is too wide for the JD790 to accommodate between the rear wheels??

My thoughts exactly My thoughts exactly. The blade I have does not allow the cutting edge to get near the tires. It also rotates 360 degrees.

You are welcome. And please let us know what you find so we may be able to further assist you.

Thank you for the update!! Please keep us posted.

Is this a John Deere 3520? I would imagine there are a number of safety switches on this machine and you would have to go through the process of elimination to figure out if any of them are causing the trouble. Also carefully inspect the wiring for damage. Rodents can cause major problems and it...

I would go with the 6 foot blade. There are likely more of them to find used and they tend to be a little heavier which helps to dig into the material. Your tractor should be plenty powerful to use it especially in lower gears. As far as the box blade goes might be better to stick with a 5...

Have you checked the quick disconnects for the hydraulic lines? Sometimes they can look like they are connected but are not seated properly. Disconnect and reconnect and make sure they seat properly.

mo1 makes some good suggestions. I would also try the easy things first.. Have you checked engine oil level. Could be fuel getting into engine oil and being sucked in through valve cover breather if so equipped. If oil is high check mechanical lift pump diaphragm or possibly injection pump. How...

Yes, would need more information from OP to be helpful. I agree, those extendable arms would come in handy and I have considered getting them since they are still available at the parts counter.

To the OP there should be an adjustment knob for the three point hitch lowering speed somewhere around the seat area. Could be that someone accidentally adjusted it somehow? Could it be that there is not enough tongue weight on the trailer hitch to lower the 3 point hitch. It does not have down...

Hi JC-jetro. I feel like the MX series is a good all-arounder, big enough to do some decent work and yet small enough to be fairly maneuverable and fit into smaller spaces. There are other machines I would like to have but this suits my needs quite well. I went with the non turbo for simplicity...

Too much Viagra?? Sorry... Door left wide open by OP and I couldn't resist........

Glad to hear you got it all sorted!! And thanks for letting us know how it turned out and your solution to the problem!!

That is a good suggestion. They can sometimes be a bit of a problem. Is the hose on the grapple still leaking?

Glad I could help..

It is possible and the way to get rid of air in the cylinders is to just fully cycle the cylinder a few times. That should purge the air.

I think you would be best off contacting Woods to see if they have a subframe for the bh90x that would fit your tractor. Same goes with the 759c. I would again contact the dealer and see what they can come up with. I did com across something at the Messick's site that might work. They are...

Doing a quick google search yielded a number of thumbs out there and you would need to find one the right size. You could maybe even have one custom made for not too much I would think. They are not very complicated. You do need to change the pivot pin of the bucket to a longer one to...

Please let us know how it goes!! And feel free to add pictures if you can.. We all love pictures!!

I am not sure that one can substitute the other. Grapples are great at moving brush and all sorts of things. Just be careful that you pay attention to getting some guards for the front end and possibly the underside depending on how aggressive you want to get. Branches are amazingly good at...

Yeah.. I hear ya..

I unfortunately do not have a shop manual for you. First off can you determine if it is engine oil or transmission fluid? If it is engine oil then it would be the rear main seal of the engine. If it is transmission oil then likely either or both of the seals for the input shaft of the...

All good points!! Not sure how mechanically inclined OP is.

Thanks for your response. I understand your predicament and wish you the best in finding a suitable replacement. Just a shame to have to let go of such a capable machine.

Could be the front wheel drive (fwd) shaft coupler. That would be the easiest to fix and worth having a look at first. Bevel gears and differential are more challenging to repair. Here is a video showing fwd shaft coupler replacement. I hope this helps!!

It is a gear driven transmission with hydraulic activated wet clutch typically. Most tractors have 2 separate hydraulic pumps, one for steering and one for the rest. Some bigger tractors have 3 pumps. As for running hydraulic motors you would have to match the motor with the flow rate and...

You would be giving up around 4,000 pounds in tractor weight, depending on model, and 3,000 pounds in 3 point hitch lift capacity. Those are significant numbers and pulling an 8 foot box blade behind a tractor only weighing around 3,500 pounds might be rather challenging. Not sure how much...

Try Messick's website. They have parts diagrams. Just type in the search bar the the loader model and it should come up. I will post a link which will hopefully work. https://www.messicks.com/KU/93401?sectionId=234691&diagramId=515195

That is a really nice blade!! Have you tried adjusting the top link of the 3 point hitch? If you make it shorter the edge will not cut in as much and if you make it longer the edge cuts in more. This theory also applies to when the blade is swung 180 degrees which is better for smoothing loose...

Have you tried tightening that bolt a little to reduce the amount of play? Or perhaps put some washers in there to take up the slack.

I did the same as Roadworthy and cut the paint between the base and the filter with a box cutter blade and had no problem getting the original hydraulic filter off.

I believe it all depends on what you are going to use the backhoe for, what the conditions are, how often will you use it and what is your budget. If money is not an issue then I would get a separate backhoe or mini ex. One thing to consider is if you have two machines you will have more...

Not sure which light you are talking about. Does it have a light for the air filter?? Water can be difficult to remove once inside the hydraulic system. It might require a drain and fill a few times. The important thing is to find out where the water is coming from. Just because it has a roof...

Without more information it will be very difficult to diagnose over the internet. I believe this tractor is hydrostatic but not sure so water in the hydraulic fluid is never a good thing. Water might be getting in at the bottom of the shift stics. When you say it has no power does that mean the...

That really sucks!!! I would hate to have done all that work and still not have the problem solved!!! I feel for you but unfortunately I have no answers for you.. Do you know if it is motor oil or hydraulic fluid that is leaking?

I used to have a JD1070 as well and it did the same thing. It would not allow reverse in high range. I always thought it was a safety thing as well like Tx Jim mentioned. Although, my MX4700 does allow reverse in high range and is a newer tractor. Not sure how that equates when things seem to be...

I would have to agree with others here that if the load is 2000 pounds I would not want to be using an MX series tractor for going any kind of distance with that load. I would think the M series of Kubota or equivalent other manufacture would be the way to go. Just my 2 cents.

Personally I would stay away from a blade that requires bolts to change settings. You may think it is not a big deal but when I use a blade I am constantly changing settings as I go. When you are done with a certain part of the smoothing process you will need to readjust for the next process and...

Hard to tell exactly from these pictures but it looks to me as thought the leak is potentially coming from the inlet at the top of the hydraulic pump. Where is the highest point that you notice the oil? It looks to me as thought the pipe clamp at the top of the pump is covered in oil and dust. I...

Yes it would. The manual actually states that front tire/wheel ballast and rear liquid ballast should be removed when the backhoe is attached. Might also have something to do with how the weight load is applied to frame, chassis and axles when the tractor is lifted by the front end loader and...

You might want to check with your dealer or manuals. The owner's manual for the Kubota BH92 backhoe attachment says to remove rear ballast when the backhoe is attached to the tractor. Just thought I'd mention.

Sorry I have not tried it myself but perhaps the video file is too big? Here is a link to TBN regarding videos. Hope this helps!! https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/new-tractorbynet-video-gallery.167426/

You will likely get more help if you post a video that doesn't make people sign into facebook.

I have not seen one either. I think you are good to go.

From what I can see from pictures it looks like the LA1055 has quite a different mounting system when compared to the M6800 way of mounting. I am sure it can be done but it seems to me you would have quite a bit of modifying to do to accomplish that!! Then there are the dimensions. The LA1055 is...

Personally I would go with the bigger tractor if you can afford it. The rear end in the M6060 is a lot beefier than that of the MX6000. All around the M6060 is a serious agricultural tractor with greater lifting and work capacity. A couple of things that kept me from buying one was the size...

That photo shows a fair bit of damage to the gears. Not sure about the bearings, they may be alright but depending on price may be worth changing since you're in there anyways. Not sure if your problem is the same. Messicks website is a good resource for parts and diagrams. Here is a link to...

There are a couple of videos on youtube perhaps you can compare or best to post a video here of the problem. Here is one video at the 5 minute 40 second mark. I am sure you can find more. Hope this helps!!

Ah, yes. Bigger tractor making a bit of a mess in the soft ground I'm guessing. I like the seat on the Kubota. Will have to look into that. Thanks for your response!!

Looking at the last photo in your first post it seems you have a lot of grass to cut. I am surprised that you would not use the larger John Deere in the previous photo to do the grass cutting. I have tried the smaller tractors and find that as I age my back can not handle the bouncing around of...

So sorry to see that happen!! I would suggest some cats perhaps.. They seem to do a pretty good job around here. I believe these new tractors are becoming far too complicated with electronics. We used to just leave the tractors out in the open or covered and you might occasionally find a nest...

But if you leave the post up and answer your own question then at least other people will know where to find the cheaper filters.

360kg is close to 800 pounds. If you are that close to max on a trailer with a 50 horsepower tractor on it I would be really concerned about using that trailer even without the tires loaded!!! Just sayin..

Have you tried looking at the aftermarket. I believe Woods makes some subframe backhoes and there are other companies out there that make front end loaders. Might be worth checking into.

I have noticed on my fuel tank that the fuel line outlet is a little above the bottom of the tank. I would suspect, in my case, this is like another water trap. Just thought I'd mention in case yours might be the same.

I think I know which parts you mean but it is somewhat difficult for me to understand without actually being there. I see a rod going across at the top with a coupler and some wires wrapped around it. Would removing that allow better access to the assembly you are trying to remove?? Personally I...

From what I can see from the pics it looks like you do not have fwd on this tractor. It also looks like you may have to remove the bell housing to get at the seals. I had a look at the parts diagram and it looks like there is a gasket accessible from the other side of the bell housing. I will...

I can't help with your question but I am interested in your reduild!! Please keep the pictures coming!! Thanks for posting!!

Have you looked at Woods??

I actually don't see a torque tube for the QA in the OP's photo. Hard to tell from the angle of the pic if there is a frame between the two sides of the QA or if they are independent. A beeter angle might tell a different story? Also wondering if those are aftermarket cylinders? Perhaps The OP...

If you could show us some pics it would certainly help us to diagnose your situation. Or perhaps someone on here knows you particular model better than I and can chime in.

I actually don't see a torque tube for the QA in the OP's photo. Hard to tell from the angle of the pic if there is a frame between the two sides of the QA or if they are independent. A beeter angle might tell a different story? Also wondering if those are aftermarket cylinders? Perhaps The OP...

Typically you access that seal through splitting between engine and the clutch bell housing. This is where you can also replace the clutch. Your tractor may be different. Do you have a work shop manual??

A little more information will get you further. I'm assuming this is a John deere tractor? The dealer will likely have a kit. Or you could take measurements of the cylinder and try google. Just to help you out here's one site I found on google. Hope this helps...

As jeff9366 suggested put the wheels to the widest setting but I am curious as to the machine shutting off. Is it perhaps due to the seat safety switch being too sensitive? You might need to adjust it slightly. Or do the more modern tractors have electronic gyroscopes in the computers to keep...

Have you by chance had a look at the Woods backhoes? They seem to have options for sub frame mounted ones. Just a thought. https://woodsequipment.com/product-category/backhoes/

If the snow is deep the first run is going to be a bit of a hassle if the tractor can not go slow enough. The trick is to do the first run in lowest gear and letting the snow build up a bit until it is a little higher than the top of the blower and shift to neutral and let the blower clear its...

I had a look at the diagram from John Deere website and it looks like the muffler is up under the hood. The muffler stays in place and its the pipe coming out of the muffler (tail pip) that is modified to redirect the exhaust. Therefor there should not be too much noise coming out of the tail...

Personally I would just install a new pipe that directs the exhaust to the side and slightly downwards. I would also make the pipe in 2 pieces with an exhaust pipe clamp on the end or the middle of the new pipe so that it can be adjusted or replaced if you need to redirect or make adjustments...

Thanks for letting us know what the problem was!!

Glad you figured it out and thanks for letting us know!!

It could also be a failed diaphragm on the mechanical fuel lift pump, if so equipped. I would check that first since it is usually pretty easy to get at and replace or switch to an electrical lift pump. Just a suggestion.

Not sure how your wheel is constructed but my wheel is also mostly plastic. The metal part has to be hit with a punch or chisel from below. Can be quite difficult to remove. Hopefully someone else here has a better method!!

Thanks for your responses rScotty! I understand not wanting to mess with the exhaust unless you have to. From what I can tell the EGR on my machine is simply taking the positive crankcase ventilation gases and reintroducing them into the intake manifold. I believe older machines use to just vent...

Thanks for posting those pics!! Also checked the workshop manual and it did not mention servicing the muffler. I forgot to see if there was anything in the owners manual. I will try to remember tomorrow. If you wind up doing this service could you please let me know how that went? Wondering how...

Oh, interesting. My muffler looks a little different. Here are my pics. Sorry not as good as yours. Front end loader and hood in the way.

Hello rScotty. I have a 2012 MX4700 and this is the first time I've heard of a muffler maintenance schedule. From what I can tell from pictures of the M59 your exhaust pipe does not go up and likely exhausts downwards somehow. Same as mine. I also do not recall seeing a "muffler drain plug". I...

I would think that as long as you make the spacer thick enough so that the sidewalls of the tires don't touch each other at your usual low tire pressure you should be fine. If the sidewalls make contact to each other they will wear out prematurely.

Glad you figured it out!!

That is a pretty good video to show what is involved to get at the brakes. Not an easy job especially if you have filled tires. Did you find out where the brakes are adjusted?

If the clutch linkage points are greased and or not badly rusted I would suspect there is something going on internally in the bell housing. Sitting outside exposed to the elements can certainly cause issues. Since there doesn't seem to be an inspection plate it is hard to say what is going on...

Your brakes are likely wet disc. Which means they are soaked in transmission fluid and yes, you will likely have to take the wheel off. There is probably an adjustment for the parking brake if it is not holding properly anymore and you will want to check that first before diving in to replace...

Unfortunately I do not know your particular model well but I believe Roadworthy is correct. It is likely a linkage or a pressure spring problem. If the clutch plates were stuck together you would not be able to engage a gear unless the tractor was not running. Your clutch is most likely a dry...

Nice!! Perhaps you could show us some pics..? We tractor folk love to see tractor pics!!

Hello Ralph. Not sure what your level of experience is in operating a skid steer, but here is something to consider. Slopes can be very dangerous places to operate machinery. Learning a new machine and its capabilities is something best done on flat ground. A skilled operator knows his machine...

You may have contaminated hydraulic fluid. Have you checked to see what it looks like on the dipstick or drain a little out of the reservoir? Maybe show us some pics of what the filter looks like.

I am curious as to how you managed to pop the bead? What tire pressures were you running? Want to try and avoid that happening to me. I usually run the front tires around 21 psi. Maybe I should be running more pressure?

You might want to try talking to parts department to see if they can cross match part numbers. Maybe try calling a different dealer if the first one is of no help.

I would suggest getting 35 or 40 horsepower tractor and a regular blade to crown the driveway. You can add down pressure if you need to by adding weight to the blade. Bulldozers are not very fast either and a tractor is certainly a lot more versatile. Adding another machine always increases...

Here is a thread with pictures that seem to show the mounts in the correct position. Hope this helps!! https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/are-my-300cx-loader-mounts-on-backwards.384487/

From what I also understand GL-4 is used when soft metals, like brass, are used in a manual transmission or transaxle with synchromesh. Therefore I do not understand why Kubota would recommend GL-4. I do not believe there are soft metals in the front axle or am I mistaken..??

Came across this Kubota lubricant chart from another thread here on TBN and was looking at the GL-4 requirement of the front axle 80w90 gear oil alternative to the UDT. As I recall the 80w90 I used was a GL-5. As I did a search I am finding it hard to locate GL-4 80w90 at my local stores. From...

Some pictures would help greatly!!

Another thing to consider, aside from what is mentioned above, is traversing inclines. If the incline is sever enough and you have to travel perpendicular to the hill you would want to swing the boom to the uphill position to shift the centre of gravity. Less likely to tip when the weight is...

I have attached a picture of the inside front left hub. I have circled the level plug on the hub that needs to be removed when refilling. There is another one on the right hub as well. All in all three level check plugs including the one on the axle case. Open all three of the level check plugs...

Did mine not too long ago and it took about 9 litres. There are 2 more level check plugs to take out on the inside of the hubs near the top to let some air out that gets trapped there. I will try and post a picture when I get the chance to. Hope this helps

I have to admit I don't have much faith in clamp on pallet forks. But for light duty lifting they can work. That said here is a video that shows how to stabilize them. Check around the 4 minute mark if you don't want to watch the whole video. Hope this helps!!

Sounds like a good idea as long as the magnet is in a place it can be cleaned or replaced and does not fall off. Otherwise it's a situation of capture and release.

Thanks for your responses!! I can see that perhaps my filter is not as bad as I thought. If I buy new equipment again I will change the filter after 50 hours regardless of what the manual says.

Not sure about your model but Kubota has seal kits for their valve blocks. You might want to contact the dealer and ask them if that is available for this particular model.

Here's a link to an online manual. Check out page 46. https://kubota.ca/getmedia/af14cebf-fc34-4d7b-8e61-3523bc933078/MX4800,-MX5200,-MX5800-OPS-EN-TC65019712?ext=.pdf

Just did the first hydraulic filter change on MX4700 with manual transmission. Owner's manual states 400 hours but I decided to do it a little early at 200 hours. Cutting the paint at the seam helped a lot, filter came off no problem. Fluid shows glimmers of very fine shavings but not extreme...

I'd be careful with the front tires. Ride quality has more to do with the rear than the front tires. 10 psi is already quite low and you don't want to roll the tire off the rim in a corner. The rear has less force to contend with in a corner but I would not go less than 16 psi on the rears...

Don't forget to tighten that lock nut against the female end once you have got the toe adjusted properly! It likely wasn't tightened properly in the first place which is why this happened. Hope this helps!!

I would check the lift pump and make sure it is running properly and supplying enough fuel. The only other thing I can think of is intermittent power due to chewed or degrading wire.

I believe it mainly depends on why the pin is stuck. If it is due to rust then I would try the usual procedures of soaking with penetrating oil and leaving it overnight. Try some heat from a torch to the outside collar. And then using the pipe on the handle technique again while hitting the...

WOT : Wide Open Throttle.

I would say that typically as long as you are not lugging the engine you are ok. I usually operate between 1400 and 2000 rpm. I always believe it's better to be smooth than fast when operating machinery. You tend to have less mechanical failures and cheaper maintenance. The only thing I am not...

I would try soaking the ends in penetrating fluid, letting it sit, and try hitting it with the hammer a few more times. If that doesn't work then you could try heating up the outside collar with a torch to expand it a little and then hit it with the hammer again. You could also try a pneumatic...

I always remove my lower arms together with the upright section that connects to the lift arms at the top. Pretty easy to do on my machine. Looks like you can just slide the pin that holds the lower arm in place enough to pull the lower arm out and then simply slide the pin back into place...

Thank you for the information Hoobie!!

A call to the dealer is probably in order. Thanks again for your help 5030!!

Thank you again 5030!! I do see tire sizes in my manual but in my search for tires I have found that tires with the same size figures often have different rolling circumferences. I just don't want to compound a difference between front and rear and be outside of the 4 percent tolerance.

Thank you for your response!. I did manage to have a look in the shop manual as well and could not find it although I may have missed it. I am considering tire replacements and would like to be able to match rolling circumferences within 4-5 percent of each other front to rear. I believe that is...

Hello all! Was wondering if anyone might know what the front to rear axle ratio might be for Kubota MX4700/5100? Seems like important information that is not contained in the owner's manual. Or at least I have not been able to find it.

At what point do things become so complicated that no one wants these machines once they are past their warranty? Perhaps we are there already? Disposable 40,000 pound tractor. How's that for saving the planet....

I have only used 3ph side discharge finish mower. Wondering if you can cut in reverse for any length of time with a rear discharge? Sometimes I have to back in and out of areas and the side discharge still throws out grass with no problem cutting in reverse.

Could be the blade spindles. Not sure if the shop checked them? Sometimes spindles can feel ok until you put a perpendicular load on them as in the belt being hooked up. When was the last time they were greased?

May I ask what mistake you made that caused you to destroy your ball bearings?

Good to know. Thanks for clearing that up for me!!

I was inquiring the same and eventually heard back from Kubota dealer here that said a simple drain and fill is fine. But perhaps contact your local dealer and see what they say. Hope this helps!!

Sorry for my ignorance but does this mean gear oil is more likely to be contaminated with water than UDT over time?

I always take the weight off the tractor and put a piece of wood under the bucket to keep it off the ground. I think the main thing is moving the joysticks to activate the valves after the tractor has been shut off to relieve the pressure in the lines to prevent leakdown. Just my 2 cents.

Thank you all very much for your responses!! I did eventually hear back from the dealership and they also confirmed that it would be alright to simply do a drain and fill. I have to say I do prefer the added protection from GL-5 gear oil in the axle and will likely do the switch. Enjoy the...

Hello everyone; I have been considering changing my front axle from UDT to gear oil. Either 80w90 or 75w90 synthetic. The manual says that I can use 80w90 as a replacement. My question is do I have to flush out the UDT and then do a final fill with gear oil or can I just drain and fill with the...

Not trying to sell John Deere but here is an interesting video. Check out the video at 1 minute 7 seconds. I have a Kubota mx4700 myself with the same steering issue you describe. Seems they under designed the steering mechanism. I have noticed that in my case it is slightly worse on hills and...