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I thought I recall my 1720 having both but I haven't changed the hydraulic fluid in a couple years and may be getting it mixed up with one of my other tractors. I'll check when I get home

Don't forget cleaning out your oil pickup screen

In both Solidworks and FreeCAD, there is a repeat at intervals function. You select your "feature" which is your extruded cut (hole) off of your top face, then apply the tool which will allow you to specify how many repetitions, which and how many directions, distance between repetitions, etc. I...

Wix filter by size: https://wixfilters.com/Lookup/FilterBySize.aspx

Awesome

Agreed. Thinking likely ether-blown rings and possibly piston lands Very low compression that improves with oil in cylinders means rings are bad and the repair involves pulling the head and pistons. Doesn't rule out a valves not closing problem or a head gasket blown out between both set of...

No. Ball hone in 2nd pic OR stone type hone in 3rd pic. IMO ball hone is easier to use and less likely to take off too much material. Example ridge reamer: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36500-Ridge-Reamer/dp/B000P0ZK1O May want to look at the "deck height" spec for your engine before buying...

Keep the pistons, rod caps, and rod bearing halves (if re-using) in exact same position and orientation as you removed them. You can use a permanent (not standard type) sharpie or a pin punch -just don't punch the bearing halves. Ring compressors are fairly cheap and just need to adjust to the...

If you've pulled a head off you can certainly do the job. You'll need a torque wrench and a ring compressor or appropriately sized band clamp. You'll need to buy at minimum a ring set (obviously), a head gasket, an oil pan gasket, a tube of assembly lube, possibly intake and exhaust manifold...

One other thing is if you're using ATF as a penetrant, use the type F trans fluid made for pre-computerized Ford transmissions. Much better for the application than any of the newer formulations. Easy to see for yourself what it does to your hands versus newer fluids

True only if no hardened valve seats & clearance gets tighter. With hardened valve seats clearance opens up and compression is not affected

Poor man's quick and dirty pop tester (sort of) is pulling an injector, angling that injector tube out away from the engine, reattaching injector, and cranking/observing pattern. Pressure is high enough to inject through skin so obviously it needs to be pointed away from anything living. Note...

Smell the oil from the dipstick. If it smells like diesel either that seal is leaking or it's been cranked for a long time with rings not sealing Doubt the ring soaking is going to fix your problem. I think you'll need to pull the pistons. Everybody will have their theory about what's going on...

You shouldn't be using any kind of tool to compress the valve springs unless you are taking out the valves. What you're doing is adjusting the clearance between the top of your valve and your rocker arm. You do this when the springs are fully extended/valve fully closed

Look through this thread -explains valve adjustment: John Deere 855/856 hard starting Also YouTube

That's a neat setup. I wonder how much weight that hoist can reasonably lift given the mounting arrangement on the end of the bed

Find a Contigo brand one. They are not quite as stupid overpriced as the Yeti ones, but they are still expensive. In my experience they usually don't leak. I buy mine secondhand from the local goodwill for $2-3 each

Are you running a chain or the standard blade arms? I would imagine speeding it up would potentially be advantageous if running chains. Changing the ratio has nothing to do with acceleration, just the rotational speed of input PTO shaft vs output shaft

Decent wire feed welders are cheap nowadays, and any bolt together solution is going to start rounding out holes sooner or later. Not to mention that any holes you drill in your dipperstick are going to weaken it. I would strongly suggest a welded solution either learning yourself or cutting the...

I had a tractor with a Diesel Kiki injection pump that was impossible to find parts or even schematics for -YMMV. You would need to measure the ID, OD, and depth of those seals to see if you could locate replacements. The fact that they were made by NGK is promising. If the mismatched...

Is there a brand/part number on the existing filter to cross-match? Otherwise look up by size/thread: https://www.wixfilters.com/lookup/FilterBySize.aspx

Here's the chart from McMaster-Carr for o-ring chemical resistance. Propane should fall under hydrocarbons. So looks like Viton type should work fine. I would get a Viton kit and match it up -it's not too difficult to tell if propane is leaking with soapy water or the sniff test...

tribulus terrestris = tribulation of the earth Certainly an apt name

To test the glow plugs with the multimeter, disconnect the plug wire/strap/bar that connects each of them together, and measure the resistance(ohms) of each one between the connector post and the engine block. Yes, the compression is tested through the glow plug holes with an adapter. Harbor...

I'm assuming this is an mfwd tractor -can't tell for sure from the pic. Do you have fluid filled tires? Otherwise you will likely have a seal leaking either in the gear reduction hub here: https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/75863/referrer/navigation/pgId/241255843 or here...

I'll put in another positive vote for Carlisle. I've purchased that exact size Carlisle with R4 tread and it's held up great

Glad you got it sorted. Zero dollar minimal time fixes are always my favorite kind

Also try disconnecting and reseating your loader hose couplers

Might be worth your time and the way I would approach it is to make my own diagram of how it is wired now, then trace the power through your diagram. I like to use different color highlighters on the diagram for starting circuit, switched power, ground, etc. circuits makes it a lot easier to...

I would start by checking the trans/hydraulic fluid level, then if that's good changing the hydraulic filter along with cleaning out the hydraulic pickup screen and checking for any external pickup rubber siphon elbows for leaks. Does the hydraulics or steering make a whining or squealing noise?

Standard commercially available atropine for eye dilation prior to procedures is a 1% solution. Atropine is an anti-cholinergic (anti-rest-and-digest) which acts on nerve receptors naturally existing in your eye. "Low dose" or more appropriately low strength atropine is "compounded" by a...

Ask your eye doc about compounded low dose atropine drops for the floaters

Works well for the intended purpose? Better hold on to it as Ca will be banning it shortly...

Well that's a bummer. At least at Costco they're not going to tell you to charge it overnight first before exchange

Did you try Alexander's and southern global?

Try Hey Wheel in Kansas for customs (no affiliation just happy repeat customer)

On the bright side, you don't seem to have a relatively expensive engine/compression problem and ignition switches and pigtails are relatively cheap in terms of money and labor. On the down side of course you still don't have a functional machine. I suggest that you solder and heat shrink or...

Yes looks like it will work, thanks. Part numbers match. I wasn't looking aftermarket and apparently I should have

Yes the cap would vibrate off immediately. This mower doesn't take the standard thread cap, presumably because it's pretty old as mowers go

I'm afraid what you see in the pics are it

I'm trying to understand how this works? The only way I can see that air can get into the tank is through a hole in the top round center of the cap -anything on the sides is blocked by the filler spout. I can see this would work if the top was double walled with an air space in between, but...

I had tried to order that part number and got the non vented substitute

Have a Deere R70/R72 riding mower I recently refurbished. Has a gravity feed tank feeding a now 12hp single cylinder B&S. Original gas cap was vented and in bad shape. I ordered a replacement part from Deere and got the part that superceded the original which fits but is not vented. Didn't...

Not helpful for your current situation, but next time buy from Costco. Interstate batteries free replacement within 3 years no questions asked

Did you replace the plug wire? Could be arcing/shorting. If there is a lifter/valve/pushrod/valve seat issue it will show in the compression. Suggest retesting Other possibility is your cam lobe is worn down. Did you measure when you had it apart?

Isn't there some joke about if you want to be a millionaire horse owner, start off as a billionaire Money pits

Right or you have no compression on that side. Suggest pulling plug, attaching plug wire, clamping spark plug flat (where wrench goes) to convenient ground, and cranking starter. Look for strong and consistent spark. If none, troubleshoot your ignition system -if looks good/strong, check compression

Are those new plugs? If not that is step 1.

How are your wooden wheels working out?

My understanding is you need to have weld beads in multiple axes for max strength for repairing a plate/flat surface. A diamond shape provides this and also generally keeps all weld beads at different angles than your part edges. Which further improves strength

Did you use an oversized valve in terms of flow? My limited understanding is that if the valve is oversized it will be harder to make fine adjustments. I also asked on TBN one time if there was a difference in feathering/fine adjustment ability with cheap/chi-com valves and quality high dollar...

The pillow bearings on the main rotor shaft are universal. IIRC I got mine from Surplus Center

I had a push pull cable like that on a piece of equipment that unbeknownst to me was damaged half way along the cable length. Took vise grips and a lot of force to move it in the sheath after disconnecting both ends

I understand it's a problem, but in a way it's also pretty neat

I probably missed it early on in the thread, but that top PTO shaft I'm assuming runs at double or half speed?

Good idea that's what I suggested in post 131

Find the two part numbers and see if they're the same

Maybe check here: https://thunderbirdaz.com/Fitment-Guide_c_66.html

A stud is a simple part for a competent machinist if you can't find one

I haven't seen mention yet but in addition to personal safety equipment I keep a fire extinguisher close

Do you have a plastic printer? This may be a good application

Usually clockwise is normal spin direction looking at the front of the engine. Same as tightening on the crank bolt (if you had one accessable). But I would second California above and recommend you look at the fan That is unless your dealing with a gm 8cyl boat motor and some...

If the starter is in a bad spot with no conduction and the solenoid is working, you should theoretically be able to actuate the solenoid to engage the ring gear and starter gear, then use a socket to move the engine in reverse slightly which would in turn move the starter off the bad spot...

Looks like the ch25 does not have removable cylinders

Does the dent extend down to the first piston ring? Also it likely has bulged up material at the head sealing surface that will need to be taken down before a head gasket will seal properly. I would check with a straightedge or precision scale

Or just take the cylinder to a local hydraulic shop. They can straighten or replace rods or cylinders and replace the seals by size

I use Permatex products almost exclusively and the only time I've ever had one leak is when I didn't do my part (scrape all bits of old gasket/clean/oil free/etc.). I even used a Permatex specialty RTV product applied with a syringe and short needle to replace a complex multi-o-ring type gasket...

Maybe check out the mats designed for horse stalls at tractor supply or the like

"what do you mean" is one of the standard responses of scammers to make you question and keep you interested in interacting with them - imo almost certainly a scammer and you need to run the other way What's in the picture is a different question

I've had good luck with Thunderbird in Phoenix Arizona. Very high quality and reasonable price. Both times I've purchased from them I was in the area and picked up at their warehouse, but I've heard that shipping ain't cheap if you're a long ways from Phoenix

Looks like Deere is only selling hydrostats as an assembly nowadays so I'm not finding a real good diagram. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/70967/referrer/navigation/pgId/66985574 Your swash plate is attached to a rod that goes through parts 2-3-4 in the diagram and...

Yes there's a neutral adjustment for the swash plate angle on the hydrostat. Owner's manual or shop manual will have the procedure

Could also just cut the handle portion of the lever down to half height -would be a lot less effort to achieve the same functionality and aesthetic

So where is your input shaft bearing and seal? Is it in plate 17 in the first pic? If so looks like you will need to remove both bell housing and spacer to get to it

You could also put a large bolt and locknut through the lower 3pt arms that rides on the edge of that vertical plate and could be adjusted for over width attachments

Another thought is making an adjustable chain or cable X assembly between the two lower 3pt arms maybe adjustable with turnbuckles to prevent racking of the arms similar to how it is done with a gate or lightweight construction like in the pic. This could be a minimal space solution Edit: I...

There's a green piece hanging down from the axle just inside of the tire. Is that the pivot point for the lower 3pt arms or are the pivots on the rear case next to the pto outputs? It would seem from the pics that one would be pivots and the other would be stabilizer attachment points

I think what I was getting at is you're likely going to need to remove the casting that holds the seal and the input shaft bearing and pull it forward off the input shaft to make the repair

Posting pics would help along with pics of the exploded parts diagram from your manual. Getting a seal out from around a long shaft buried inside a bell housing without pulling the shaft out of the case/bellhousing is going to be difficult, and the o ring or other seal in between the two shafts...

Where is the hydraulic leak coming from and how does that relate to clutch removal? Is it the transmission input shaft seal leaking?

I've also taken a tractor hood to an automotive body shop. When they were done there was no way to tell it had ever been damaged. $300 iirc I thought was a pretty good deal

Love all the OSHA compliant PPE

Try here https://www.alexanderstractorparts.com/

My fence has these little guys for fine tension adjustment after the fence has been strung

So is the compressed path it makes for driving over or something else? It reminds me of what the groomed Nordic ski trails look like around my area

Is the rod steel or aluminum? Was this in the cylinder with the valve seat falling out or the other one? Assuming it did appear while the engine was buttoned up and it did bounce around in there, there're not too many places it could have come from -either through the plug hole like @ponytug...

If you think your surveyor/engineer is likely to find the site borderline/questionable, another idea is bringing in enough fill to raise your build site another 3' or so prior to the survey. This was done a number of times in ancient times for additional flood protection

Hmm -"tapped back in"? Those should need a press or some pretty firm "tapping" with a drift to seat. This could be part (or all) of your problem if the seat is coming out. Remember the coefficient of heat expansion is different for the head than the valve seat so it may stay now and fall out...

2 wires means you have an spst switch so your switch is good

Pull the plug on the switch -there should be several pairs of wires going into the switch. Set your meter to ohms maybe in the 2k range, and put one lead on each of a pair of contacts on the switch (not the pigtail). See if you get a resistance reading close to zero. If so, this means the small...

Switch might be spdt or sp3t -if so may have different circuits through the same switch. Start circuit could be good but engagement circuit bad, so the fact that it prevents starting doesn't guarantee the switch is good. Suggest pulling the switch and checking each individual throw with an ohmmeter

Pick any 3 there's surely an "illegal" one per the PRKalifornia

Suggest looking for specific models/years on tractor data. Look at the engine spec. Looks like the transition varies by model. For example the Boomers with 4 digit model numbers and the Boomer 8N made variously 08-18 were Shibaura made and the Boomers with 2 digit model numbers made variously...

Make sure you have rear jacks/supports installed if you're planning on driving 7k+ up ramps on a 2k trailer, especially if you're on an incline and/or have ramps designed for a 5k payload. There are several humorous /horrifying pics/videos in the pics of people towing/hauling wrong thread of...

Your shift fork 26 is pinned on to your shift shaft 24 with pin 27. Shearing that pin 27 was the second less likely scenario I outlined above. That shift fork 26 interfaces with your throw out bearing carrier 23 which has the throw out bearing 22 pressed on to it. You should be able to...

If the throw out bearing was seized on the shaft the pedal wouldn't move at all. Judging from your excessive free play adjustment comment, my vote is for the prior owner never adjusting the clutch pedal and having the throw out bearing constantly run on and wear through the clutch actuation...

Yep and makes any attempt at import subject to chicken tax

I was trying to be objective...

I think to most of us here in the US, that vehicle looks a mis-mash of different vehicles put together despite the practicality: rear bed of commercial work truck + nose/cab of a commuter sedan + raised 4wd running gear. There are poorer folks here in the US that use "Yankee Inginuity" to take...

Welcome to TBN: Try here: https://www.messicks.com/nh/137127 May be able to source parts here -call if not on website https://www.alexanderstractorparts.com/

That mobile in the mid ground is mine. I have 30 acres and most plots here are 10-15acres

Thanks! I don't have much room on top between the tank and ground level -I might only be able to put about 6" of dirt without mounding it. Insulating the pipes/manifold/switch is a good idea and I've already got the right size insulation. Trailer was purchased with the marks on the tires and...

I'm not real clear on how that would work with the pump only cycling once per day when the water is on/off all day for toilets/shower/sink/etc. even with a larger pressure tank?

Never had a need for making multiple 2" holes through 4" of concrete before, so had to purchase a new tool for the project. This is the cheapest Harbor Freight hammer drill that accepts the SDS Max size bits for $200 -the 2" coring bit added another $140. I was quite pleased with it and can...

Thanks, I will consider it if I have a problem ongoing. Right now I seem to have pretty steady flow and pressure. I think the static pressure of the 30ish ft vertical drop over the 250 foot run helps with that.

I made several saw cuts in the bottom of the tank/pit and it is leveled on a bed of gravel. I was assuming that water would get in regardless of what I did and wanted to provide drainage

So here we are almost complete -just needs the last 2 foot of trench filled in. Works great and will transition nicely to the house. The well pit lid will be insulated

I did this with an older tractor. IMO the things to keep in mind are making sure your spacers and attachment method are at least as robust as the factory mounting, the seatbelt still functions as designed, and your head isn't going to be slamming into the narrower portion of the rops/cab in case...

I don't get it -what's the niche here? How is it supposed to be better than a riding mower? Just the non-turf tires and stylized decorative crap that looks like it's trying to be a cross between a Fiat and a Hummer? An ATV with a pull mower seems a lot more practical and versatile solution here

I'm not familiar with that model on your side of the planet, but on road-going vehicles sold in North America brakes and steering are hydraulically and mechanically connected respectively and will both work with the engine not running or providing the vacuum/hydraulic/electric assist (the...

I have a friction washer setup like that in my 88 Shibaura made Ford. Friction washer not designed to last 35+ years & part number discontinued of course, ended up using alternating nylon and steel washers to create multiple friction interface surfaces to tighten up with the nylock or castle nut...

Bought one of these for the times when you don't have an anchor point a few years back. I needed it a few times before I bought one, then of course I've been carrying it since and haven't needed it. I know that day 1 after I take it out of the truck I'll need it for sure...

Remember 15k applies only at single wind layer on the spool. Double/triple wind the rating drops off sharply. Not very many winching situations in my experience have the luxury of having your anchor point exactly placed at the optimal single wind cable distance. On the other hand, the 15k is...

I swapped an OEM timing belt on a straight 6 2005 Lexus at 96k miles and about 10 years old. Service interval was 90k. I wish I still had pictures of the belt -it was starting to delaminate and so was a ticking time bomb. Most all piston type automotive engines made in the 21st century are...

Should be doable with a double acting solenoid valve and remote setup but likely fab it yourself or $$$$$

Absolutely agree after doing several: $100-200 in parts and it's invariably a PITA requiring several hours and even more if you do the polishing job too. If you live within driving distance of a decent hydraulic shop it's totally worth it IMO. My shop even spray paints the outside and provides...

They have a parts section specific for his tractor so it's probably as good a place to start as any

Suggest calling Southern Global -they specialize in gray market tractors and may have one in their yard or may know where to locate one https://southern-global.com/

If you have a front loader and pallet forks, have you considered Home Depot style lumber racks to stack them vertically, keep them off the floor, maximize floor space, and make them difficult to steal without a loader/forks?

I completely agree. I also get a sense that when I buy something, sure I own it; but when I dig into something to understand it enough to repair, especially when it's an in-depth repair involving blood sweat and 4 letter words as mentioned, I have well and truly made the thing mine.

Try here: https://southern-global.com/shop/?category=&wpce_search=14853&post_type=product They even have a re-ring kit assembled for you

I like the multiple incandescents and photo eye ideas for backup heating

There sure was a reason lead was added to paint. Lasted forever. I had a 77 Ford pickup that I sold around 2005 (& later regretted) that had the original orange lead based enamel still in great shape from the dry desert climate. The sun would murder the lead free 2 stage paint on my newer...

I would agree but I think my question really is what temp does paint freeze at because I'm fairly certain it's a lower temp than water

I just lost several hundred dollars worth of new paint in gallon cans during the recent cold snap. They were all water base paint both indoor and outdoor varieties along with some primer. It got unseasonably down in the mid negative 20s here during the worst of it; and coming from the desert...

I would think that a whole range of plug sizes would work. It just needs to get a heating element in the chamber that seals and doesn't have an interference fit with the piston. So what if the heating element isn't the optimal size or have optimal depth placement -any heated point in the...

Wow that dog is really something! Are all those facets individually cut and tig welded together?

Do you have any fabrication shops or plasma table folks around? I would imagine they would have a use for it -maybe a smaller shop would pay you cash for it -maybe even trade some fabrication work for it

The part number you mentioned in the first post comes up as a Mahindra part that's absurdly expensive for a glow plug: this one appears to be available -I'm assuming you're looking for something more reasonably priced? https://4mymahindra.com/products/ht17160000a-glow-plug

And Bosch -by dimensions starting on page 52

Here's the Denso one maybe you'll get a better match. Also does your OEM one have a manufacturer on it?

I recently added a remote to my 53hp machine and it would have been near impossible to do without removing the wheel. Is the issue you're concerned about the weight of the wheel/tire/rimguard? A strap and cherry picker may be in order

I ended up taking both seal kits and the cylinder in to a hydraulic shop on my 541 loader and they told me it wasn't complete and they charged me for a seal off the shelf. Sounds like your related 521 has a similar issue

Here you go: https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/assets/Uploads/Glow-Spec-chart_Nov-2020_v1.1.pdf You can match them by dimensions/specs

You need to match lug pattern, hub diameter, and offset in addition to the basic diameter/width. Note that tractor wheel dimensions are typically taken from the tire seating surface and not necessarily the rim lip. When you have those dimensions I suggest calling Hey Wheel in Kansas -not much...

I don't have your tractor but there is usually a friction washer/nut/locking mechanism combination in the lever assembly itself. If you have a service manual it will specify the procedure

I don't have your tractor but if you follow the clutch linkage back to the transmission there will be a turnbuckle or similar adjustment mechanism or cable adjustment. Adjust to where the pedal has to travel the specified distance before meeting any resistance

Suggest starting here: https://southern-global.com/?s=g244&post_type=product Maybe call them up & ask. If not, suggest getting a generic push/pull cable and adapting to work

You may be able to take it in to a print shop and have them scan/enlarge/wallpaper it for you

Looks like a couple sources of NOS parts from a quick Google search: http://www.formulah.com/honda-tractors/engine/brand-new-new-old-stock-nos-rt5000-h5013-front-pto-clutch-cable-part-number-75187-752-630/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/296167016477

I don't think there's any downside to a very thin amount of sealer on both sides of your new gasket

I don't have your particular model but usually air tool oil is added directly into the air inlet port. Felt is/was frequently used to retain oil in machinery, especially older machinery. It is likely that the port is for swapping out a felt piece which was designed to retain and more slowly...

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/ford-new-holland-1720-and-others-rear-remote-valve.443333/page-5#post-6604462 Suggest PMing tedward4

It ran for a short time so good news you can be fairly certain you narrowed it down to a fuel problem. I had a tractor that had sat for a while and had a gravity feed line from the fuel tank -blew compressed air through fine, but turns out I couldn't blow through the line by mouth because the...

I would also pull the other head and disassemble/clean the valve assemblies, lap the valves, and replace the lifters on the other cylinder as well. A sticky/intermittently closing valve on the other cylinder would explain the no compression one day then compression another day as you described

Also these motors didn't come with a lift pump and can lose prime. I would pull the fuel line at the base of the tank and make sure the outlet isn't clogged with crap and your line is good flowing all the way to the pump. Some models had check valves also that can clog

Pretty sure a 5103 in the 03-04 vintage doesn't have a computer. It should have the same 2.9L 3cyl mechanical injection diesel as my 02 5220 -early versions no turbo later versions with turbo. You've only got a few possibilities. Assuming the engine is complete and structurally sound...

I would consider replacing the lifters as well as they seem to be varnished internally. Seems like this engine has seen crappy oil, prolonged oil change periods, extended operation at borderline high temps, or a combination of the above. I don't have any personal experience with detergent...

The days of insurance or loan decisions being influenced by a subjective face to face interview with a company rep are long passed. Actuarial calculations are just math. Insurance companies are not in business to lose money so it's in their best interest to have the most objective actuarial data...

I edited the post and put in a few more thoughts while you were writing that might be useful Edit: If keeping costs down I imagine repurposed valve springs - maybe a cluster of 4 would be ideal for the springed bump stops as well

That seems to be pretty close to the pivot point of your rocking beam fulcrum and from lever mechanics you may need a very strong spring assembly (and correspondingly very rigid mounting points) to make a difference depending on the articulating mass distal to the spring/strut attachment point...

Considering what could have been wrong here you're getting off easy/cheap. If by "relapping the edge" you mean spinning the valve against the valve seat with lapping compound, I would consider that a bare minimum for repair (in addition to a head gasket). I would eval your valve guides very...

Yeah but the agonizing commercials...(!) I might consider jumping ship if my dollars were going to pay for that advertising

I had Geico, Progressive, and several other "discount" companies for some years. Switched to State Farm for vehicles/RV/house and never looked back. Cheaper or similar rates, outstanding customer service, and they've paid out several claims immediately and with no fuss or attempts to weasel out...

You have a valve problem and need to remove that head

It sure looks like a plug in the pic -welsh/welch/freeze plug or otherwise. What else could it be? Sometimes these are added to allow a machining operation on the casting to take place through the hole during manufacturing and are never touched again even on rebuild. It occurs to me if you have...

I would be very cautious using RTV (Permatex type stuff) in a hydrostat. Suggest using an absolute minimum amount as any blobs that break off internally can cause flow restrictions or other problems. Also I would hesitate to use cardstock/file folder material as it will likely disintegrate with...

If the prior suggestions don't fix it, I would check your hydraulic pickup screen. Also you can get a dye for the trans/hydraulic fluid

Nice work. I like the elegant alternator solution. Mandrel bent stainless J and U sections are available pretty cheaply online or at a muffler shop would save a substantial amount of work

I get the quaternary part but maybe I'm dense here in not getting how the catenary part relates to filled front tires? https://en.m.wiktionary.org/wiki/catenary

You sure it's negative camber? I think fronts are usually designed with some positive camber: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tractor-positive-camber-why.70746/ https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/why-so-much-positive-camber.174046/ I think there's supposed to be a little...

If you're going to be using it commercially and relying on it daily for income, there's a reason the majority of commercial folks use Cat & Deere commercial equipment. There is a big difference between commercial designed equipment and the home/ranch grade stuff that most of us on the forum...

Welcome. We will need more information about the problem and description of what "to spark plugs" means. Also FYI it is generally not prudent to disclose your personal email address in a public forum (your user name)

Linux. The Mint Cinnamon is the variety closest to Windows and is almost seamless in the learning curve if you already know how to use Windows. It's free, you can install alongside Windows and boot either OS at startup if you choose, the vast majority of software is free including an entire...

Also suggest evaluating check valve if you have one

I have sent automotive alternators to hi-performance rebuilders to get a higher amperage setup in the same package. I think they are popular with the car audio crowd. No difference in a tractor alternator versus an automotive one to my knowledge. A quick Google search yields lots of rebuilders

Instead of defragging Microsuck I heartily recommend defenestration

Hope not, that effectively ended Iberian global hegemony

This tightening typically occurs in engines that do not have hardened valve seats. Engines that do have hardened valve seats usually get looser because the rest of the valve train wears faster than the hardened valve seats. Every Yanmar engine I've worked on back to 90s vintage has had hardened...

Maybe you should put her stuff back in junk drawer too

That's when I provide her a basic set and voila we now have yours and mine -and mine are now off limits

Agree with the ziplocks for non immediate use -fasteners for each assembly go together, labeled with a sharpie, and blue taped to a major component of the assembly. Helps some with demon fur balls aka cats and random movement events/jarring/rolling aka ghosts, but not so much if before getting...

Hmm. Well looking further into the ch25 specifically looks like the mating gears on both the crank and cam are manufactured and sold as one piece integral crank/gear and cam/gear assemblies. Makes it less likely but certainly not impossible that the gears have spun on their respective shafts

My first thought here is what happens when you hit a substantial bump at speed? A tire alone will deform considerably and provides a cushioning effect on the rest of the suspension and ride. I understand that cushioning is not the goal here; but when that tire deforms in response to said bump it...

A quick and dirty test to see if your valves are closing and your pistons are intact is to use a compressed air blowgun with a rubber tip for sealing on your spark plug holes when your valves are at their highest points (springs extended). If you're building pressure then everything is...

IMO that seems like a pretty obvious place to start -get it back to how it was engineered before trying to find aftermarket solutions Also disconnect and wire brush both sides of battery cables and connection points regardless of how they look visually and maybe add an additional ground from...

Sure looks like a job with an indexable face mill or a fly cutter on a milling machine

Are you talking about the splined driveshaft from your trans drop box to the front differential or an axle shaft inside of your front axle housing?

I use 15w-40 in my 1720 works great

Your crank and your cam are not coordinated like they should be. Suspect your timing chain/belt/gear either skipped multiple teeth or sheared a woodruff key The other option is you have a valve bent on both cylinders or as mentioned a hole in both pistons. I would definitely eval your...

Adding some blocks and strap to the top of your boom greatly increases strength like the boom on this cherry picker...

Looks great! I hope the repair cost you less than the head replacement

The de-rating might also be due to putting lower load-rated tires on them. I've got a 10k rated tandem trailer with 12k axles/hubs/brakes but is de-rated for the 15" tires that it came with.

I would vote for the easy bit first adjusting the valves. If that doesn't fix the noise then you can go down the rabbit hole of piston slap etc. Maybe others can chime in here as well

I would also consider the Yanmar filter 119305-35170 which is the equivalent to M806418 -again what the engineers intended. Hard to beat $9: https://www.bayshoremarineengines.com/product/119305-35170-oil-filter/ Judging by the many thousands of hours a Yanmar diesel typically lasts, I trust...

What kind of frequency with the tapping sound? WAG is solid lifter slop & may be reduced with valve adjustment. Is the engine over-full of oil? Another thought is using a long handle screwdriver up to your ear and touching various (obviously stationary) parts of the running engine or using an...

Do you have a power-reverser trans?

Welcome. https://www.messicks.com/nh/137131 06- Electrical systems 11A03 -Relay/diodefuse diagram

I think parts availability for the 1700 is better which in and of itself would lead me to keep the 1700 in addition to the lower hours, increased capability, & already has the loader set up. Rear lift is a matter of lift cylinder diameter, hydraulic pressure, and 3pt arm geometry (leverage). If...

Says it will mount to a 7" wide rim: 25.8" OD 77.1" circumference Example Carlisle Trac Chief: https://www.carlstar.com/our-products/product-detail/trac-chief/

I'm doing it right now in our unseasonably warm winter. The 500gal tank (pit) is supposed to be installed by Friday. I'm in western Montana west of the continental divide so it's warmer than the rest of the state, and we really haven't had much snow so far. We're supposed to get a foot dropped...

You need to trace the relevant wires back and unwrap the wiring bundle to see what you're looking at. It's a PITA but needs to be done

Higher quality and Fram in the same sentence is usually considered an oxymoron. Fram has a reputation for making the cheapest lowest quality filters in the industry, especially as relates to the internal bypass in the filter. What makes you think that the JD filter is low quality? It's been my...

I can't really contribute much to the soil question other than passing along reading that the dropped pine needles have a compound in them that inhibits other plant growth which may help explain some the the soil quality in the woods

Don't know anything about your specific tractor but sometimes the dipstick is under the seat. If you have the cab version look for an access panel in the area above the rear differential as RJ mentioned above. If you still can't find it I would look for an owners manual or a parts...

I did that the day after when it started feeling funny, but I kind of doubt it would have made much difference had I done it immediately in this oddball case. I don't even remember doing it I just know which day it was

Along similar lines to the OP but not as bad: I recently had a fluke finger problem that I'm told almost killed me. Tiny cut on my middle finger knuckle you can kind of see in the first pic. Got it working in the shop just like the other half dozen small cuts I have on my hands at any given time...