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Ridiculous🙄, you can do an awful lot of 3 quart oil changes for 500 bucks!! And check in air pressure in the tires? Any knucklehead can do that, these dealers do anything they can to get a dollar out of you

The previous years GC series there was a direct engine oil filter replacement with PN 72201898 but the new 23 and 25 series that uses the filter# 3710280m3 there is not the last I heard, Massey Ferguson has a bulletin out directing not to use the early version filters I seen it at my dealer

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I Didn't say you or anyone said that, just stating a fact

There's nothing wrong with the AGCO/DENSO filter, it's a quality filter, my dealer actually has them cheaper than Amazon

I'm showing no results found https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=Fc115010-5241%20&referer=v2

There's aftermarket replacement parts on line reasonable

I only have 1 acre and I have a scut, always find some chore for it I never be without it

Pan should be able to be welded back up good to go

Yea very odd these little ISEKI 1.1L engines like most in SCUT are pretty bullet proof, let us know what you find.

Walked in the pole barn lifted the cover patted her on the hood said hi and walked out lol I store mine for the winter.

Browse the Massey Ferguson lot if you happen to have one nearby, nice units

Bend the bracket some or a zippy tie, you must be a light person

Maybe

Imo because it's all they can afford then they think they can use it like an industrial unit, I see it on forums all the time people are stupid

Old Post I know but just in case somebody comes across it. Without knowing the internal specifications for the OEM filter it's hard to properly cross reference it is the problem you'll want the same flow and bypass settings as OEM not just a physical match at this moment there's nothing for the...

Exactly, why allow excessive wear and poor protection by running inadequate spec oil when you can grab the right stuff that's probably sitting right next to it on the Shelf

Displacement of the motor is irrelevant, There's dispersants in a diesel certified oil that suspends soot particles( abrasive to moving parts) to be filtered out in the filter and also other additives that Aid in oxidation and neutralize acids that pcmo does not have or have enough of, there's a...

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Not a good idea the additive packages differ for diesel applications, different additives and certifications, stick with a hdeo a oil specified for diesel applications

JD Hygard IS a high quality oil we've used it for many thousands of hours I've seen many analysis of this lube very stout addictive package. Use it with confidence it is a good oil,and worth the money.

Yeah I know ridiculous people come in here looking for information got to Wade through all this blah

Been an ongoing thing around here lately not sure why the mods don't step in 🙄

13 pages? It's a woodpecker! 🙄

Off topic

🙄 tree hugger

I agree everything built today is a toy compared to equipment back in the day

Shoot it

Pushing snow is hard on a front end loader hitting obstacles and whatnot looks like you're out of warranty so weld/fish plate it up and be on your way

They all weep their eventually I've seen all brands do it usually in the winter time is when they leak more often because of the shrinkage It's actually an easy repair check YouTube there's videos around on this fix.

Yup it needs to be deep tilled first.

I must have good eyes because even with the backhoe on I can easily tell the stock fluid in the sight glass

What a horrible location, accessible to damage ur heel hitting it and bad spot to remove, that's crazy what we're they thinking

This ain't no paint, it's peer over torque

The biggest Burly guy that worked at the factory probably put it on with both hands and a breaker bar so whatever you get make sure it's something sturdy

Can you have your dealer send you the parts for free and you fix it yourself?

Does it look like the belt is hitting something, it must be contacting something because everything sure looks like it's lined up properly you're going to have to thoroughly inspect around the whole circumference of the belt path see if you can see anything

No, that's not how they're made here in the states.

The proper way is simply pour with spout on top🙄 like others have said, sheesh can't get any easier then that.

A leak down test would tell you more than a compression test.

Up in the thumb of Michigan here, we had chickens when I was a kid ma never had any heat just good Sheds they were in never lost any that I can remember.

And I think it has something to do also with the size of the deck, my cc 54" builds up with grass terribly but my smaller craftsman 42" hardly builds up at all, I only mow when grass is totally dry

Must have fell off and got ran over.

Nothing works grass will always stick

I wouldn't touch one with a 10-ft pole for the above reasons and others, just a cheaply built tractor

Is that a factory backhoe tractor or non-backhoe?

Switch ur hoses from bucket to boom, does it work?

Or........ just make sure you double check and it's always snapped in properly, always tug on it good and make sure it's snapped in and won't pull off

Per owner's manual

The 50hr service is ONLY.... engine oil and oil filter, plus check for loose hardware, no sweat

You need to post a video so we can see exactly how long it's cranking, a puff of black smoke at startup is normal

They make pallet Forks UNDER 200 lb with 36" forks that's what you want for a subcompact

Thanks for posting this info

Your going to have that issue with any brand and dealer. Just wait till warranty is up then your ok

They will say "it's where it supposed to be" and that it's been tamperd with, trust me

Thats odd because MF has some of the highest settings for hydraulics I've seen,,my new 1723 tested 2000psi on the dot, spec Is around 1900 I believe. You do know you violated your warranty any problems they can/will deny you.

A combination of a junk tractor and design and abuse, I've seen a couple posts on the web now of a kioti cracking and breaking in that area. POS. And then try to get any warranty work out of them good luck

Correct

I don't care what bucket is on it somthing is wrong!!, them cyls should not be bending, there is a fault in the rods, undersized or not hardend properly, they look undersized to me, the older cb65 sub compacts bh had the same issue with the dipper cyl, new revised cyls were issued and problem...

Carburetor problem you need to get it cleaned

I no all that, I do them all the time, it'll give you the additives that matter, anti wear anti corrosion etc..

By a VOA, additives and base oil separate the men from the boys. Not all additives and base oils are created equal

Yup its a log splitter

Of course, I waxed my new GC about 3 times already! :cool:

You still have pressure someplace, either the male or female end.

Lower your air pressure, on my gc I have them around 14-15 psi.

I've seen that before on sub-compacts I bet you there's a manufacturer defect in the iron in that rod it was forged too soft. Happen to have any warranty left on it?

Use said the male connector did you try the female connector? Does that easily push in? If you have pressure on one side they won't go

Pure coincidence. In six years there could have been any abnormal crankcase pressure any type of dirt and debris, mechanical failure in that seal to make it leak 3 weeks ago I picked up a 470hr big Cub Cadet with a Kohler 27 horse engine guess what went in yep Mobil 1 full synthetic no issues...

You said all Two Strokes I believe

Get a 2 smoke snowmobile out on the lake hold her wide open throttle for few miles see what happens

That is nothing but pure coincidence i use synthetic oil in high-mileage vehicles and high hours equipment for 25 years and also at work not once was there ever a problem. Most modern day multi viscosity synthetics of good quality have very low VII and shear very litte they're pretty much...

How about investigating the pulleys and see why it's falling off, these pulleys have guides on them that keep the belt on track and running true if your belt is falling off or breaking you have a problem somewhere

"Long hours at a time", I'm sure she's getting hot and at the recommended 50:1? I can see why ur having bearing issues. Go to 40:1 and shorten the run time

See what a dealer will give you Dealers Supply is pretty scarce nowadays lots are empty you may be surprised what they would give you for a trade in. If not sell it outright good used clean tractors are very sought-after nowadays

Thanks but no it's not I could not blow either way in or out that little paper disk had it completely blocked off, usually these type situations there's only pressure and if that's blocked off you could blow out axle seals. That's why I'm wondering if anybody else has seen this while servicing...

did a service on the transaxle today and while I had the vent plug off I found that I couldn't blow through it upon inspection it looks like there's a paper washer in there preventing it from venting has anybody seen this before why would they have of then but then plug it off with this paper disk?

Did Stihl make that bolt, forged in their foundry? No they get it from a supplier that probably had a bad run with wrong tempering, **** happens, stihl has a very quality saw.

Though not as bad is your tractor info my brand new gc1723 is kind of the same way, I kind of go with the owner's manual and then do a Google search see what everybody else is doing lol

Facebook Marketplace is probably going to be your best bet. A lot of people that are buying look there

Still under warranty? Take it back to your dealer

Even brand new equipment will leak down if Hydraulics are left in the air which is totally normal

MF specs there GC series at just under 2000psi stock, mine was spot on 2000 when I got it home, rasing a bx up is fine IMO.

Check YouTube out plenty of videos on how to do it

Nice, sometimes that's all that happens

If everything still original I believe 2016 switch to 3/8 connectors and the dl95 has 3/8 connectors also so you should be all set

The new BH2720 has addressed this issue

Idling is the major cause of fuel dilution run cheaper oil and change it every 3000 or get rid of the car get something else

Yea bummer

Can you back trace your steps from when you changed the oil find it on the ground someplace or did it fall in the frame of the tractor?

Exactly they don't own it they're in a hurry and they don't give a **** they're there for a paycheck

Next time grind it out

After 17 years I would suspect your experience would come in the play and you wouldn't need that rod on there anymore

K thanks for the pn and info!

Is there a left and right?

Looks better, how much any idea??

Lol

Operator error

Yes but the down fall is it needs to break first before they will warranty it witch is BS i think.

I usually use a quart and a half to 25 gallons pretty much smokes everything in my lawn

Listen to your gut

Always let a diesel engine warm up a few minutes before operating, cold engine is inefficient at burning fuel,, hydraulic and transmission fluids need to warm slightly also for proper operation.

Depending on what part of the country you're from usually mobil bottles John Deere plus 50 II, so its basically delvac 15w40 which is an outstanding quality Lube.

And then will that tractor be big enough? Or wait if I could lift just a little bit more? Where does it end

Yup BITOG is great website and informative on any lubricant you could use

There most certainly is data out, oil samples clearly will show this showing differences in a cheaper off-brand oil versus a reputable name brand oil , additives will be different, dispersants, base oils,HTHS, viscosity index improvers on and on, Stick with a name brand reputable company and...

Recreational fuel, for ATVs dirt bikes outdoor power equipment stuff like that, pure gas no ethanol.

We have 90 Rec also I just run it without nothing stays good for a looong time

Oil at operating temp, all rods retracted then let it sit a few minutes then check is about as close as you'll get

Sorry to hear that hopefully somebody steps forward and help solve this some way for you that's just ridiculous. KIOTI wasn't even on the radar of my consideration when I was shopping for my sub compact they're just a cheap POS looking machine I've heard a lot of problems about both machine and...

That's ridicules, a clutch tractor can sit for years without use and the clutch will be just fine, it don't "need" to be worked to survive.

In my saw I most definitely see a performance gain vs the crap that you get from the pump.

I use the premix cans(95octain) in my STIHL chain saw because I only use it on an occasion and usually only use a tank full when i do so its worth it to me by the great performance i get outa the saw it just screams!! runs outstanding and carburetor is always spotlessly clean.

Wix makes Napa filters check wix website for the equivalent Napa filter usually only one number difference, it'll show you the filtering specs. A hydraulic filter will never restrict fluid flow as there's always a built-in pressure bypass if there is a restriction the bypass will open and allow...

lol exactly! No one borrows my stuff for this reason.

Cross reference it to a WIX, NAPA GOLD or FRAM etc, should be easy enough

I agree there's no one-size-fits-all when it comes to grease on farm implements/ tractor pins and bushings anything that slides you want a moly fortified grease Schaffer's is an excellent product we use 274 exclusively on the farm on implements driveshaft Yokes fifth wheels universals brake cams...

Yea,I seen that too, That's what a dealer will tell you and that's true workable horsepower when it comes to a tractor, you want to know what PTO horsepower is for future Implement purchases. That's what's confusing I have the parts manual on hand and service manual neither one shows a...

Is that taken at the tractor's PTO or the flywheel? that makes a big difference

Technically no but I always do, I hate redos.

I agree, just saying.

Most systems are self bleeding these days, we never bleed anything when replacing a blown hose(12" to 30') just cycle the cylinder many times.

You want the spec that shows ahead of the pivot point if posible

Besides adding some thread sealer you don't need anything more then what you have posted that will work good, we use that set up in the shop daily for years works fine. Don't worry about the air.

There IS a fuel screw on top of the injector pump to add more fuel that is not accessible there's a tamper resistant plug you would have to remove. it very well could be the 25's are set higher but the serivice manual doesn't state any settings for that.

Thanks Rob

OP if your going to buy new i would get with the 3rd function already added or have the dealer add it before pick up it'll much easier that way.

Well its only just over 1 pto hp(18.3 vs. 19.6) so i cant see how that would make a huge difference.

Thanks, would you mind posting up what your research found to be some differences?

Thanks Rob for your insight, where did you set your rpm's?. I've heard of guys doing that and seeing a nice increases in HP by just rasing rpm's to 3000, I'm not touching mine because its brand new and under factory warranty and it's factory set to 2850ish at present so its close, I probably...

Right yup thanks, I did notice when it comes to the 23 and the 25 vs what was posted above with the 1705 and 1720 injection pump and injectors are basically exactly the same part number with the exception to the injector pump p/n, one of the middle numbers only one digit is different and that...

I've seen seals tend to leak when there's pressure on them Implement weight raised I always relax the Hydraulics when I'm done, just what I do.

Thanks I see no mention of that in that section anything talking about timing and injector pump, etc Anything talking about timing and injector pump had no deciphering between the two. I'm not going to worry too much more about it next time I head to AGCO my dealer for parts I'm just going to...

Yup ha

Part numbers don't always tell the story I've seen it a hundred times before . From my service manual my dealer gave me when I bought my new tractor shim's may only be need did to adjust pressure if there's a problem now I see that's for a 1710 and 1720 is that going to be different from the 23...

That's what I'm thinking also, the 25 models are running at a higher RPM at PTO speed = more horsepower you would think. I wouldn't be afraid on a 23 model to run RPMs/PTO speed a little faster I do it at work all the time never a problem with anything

fuel shims? I see no reference to any shimming in the injector pump, delivery valves and Springs, or governor ,etc are all showing the same throughout there's no deciphering between models whatsoever. If you have anything you could post to show I would be interested and making notes of it. From...

According to the service/shop manual I see no difference when it explains ignition timing or injectors and injectors pump or injector pop pressures etc between the two models. Gear for ptos must differ the 25 models need more rpm at pto speed then the 23 models from what I can see

Hmmm good question

On the GC series subcompact from what I can see the difference in HP is RPMs only, as this engine is a mechanical injected DI design no electronics or computer management controls that I can see on my GC1723EB. I think when they say full throttle they mean when working the tractor, you can idle...

Can we stay on topic men... The Iseki engine is a well-built design, ours in our GC has been nothing but outstanding I read a post once on another site a guy had over 10,000 hours in his GC 1.1L, he used it a lot running a generator.

Bummer, I guess one drawback of the rear-facing engine on these GC's

So long story short does the radiator have to come out to replace the fan belt?

Not sure why it's stating synthetic blend the plus 50 II 0w40 is a FULLY synthetic base stock oil very very good oil use it with confidence

Not complaining but I noticed the RPMs on my new 23 is around 1850 to 2900 I thought the 23's are governor at 2600? I'm probably closer to 25 horsepower with this one then. What's everybody else seeing with their 1723??

Brought her home Saturday its a brand new 2019 leftover manufactured in December '19 .6hrs on the clock DL95 loader with quick hitch I did have the option to get the 1805, they even threw in the arm rests that come on the M models I just need to install them. This one never seen the light of day...

Just picked this unit up i think it's a tomahawk,it's a model 47024 it has a 10 HP Tecumseh engine would like to find a manual for it,i did a google search with out much luck anyone know of one or could help me out? thanks...

Virgin oil analisis...a small oil sample you send into a lab it shows the compound make up of an oil,additives,acid neutralizing property's,viscosity at given temps,etc,etc..

Have you ever seen a VOA from these above oil's packaged by WPP for the house brands of WM or TSC?? it's nothing to be proud of believe me,,or not... way better oil's out there...