Adding euro three point hooks

[orangetree]

So you need some of these. For your tractor you could go with either the straight cat 1 hooks or the cat 1-2 hooks.
Then it is also nice to have a top link to go along with the lower hooks.

Like ptsg mentioned, you can do the fabrication, or ship the extendable ends to me for fabrication.

I have lower hooks from you, ~two years later I'm welding them up now I am also doing top-link now, and figure I'd regret not getting a hook for the top.

Looking through all the pictures, how do folks keep the top hook aligned while unattached? It's on a cylinder, so free-rotating right? Or as a practical matter does it just stay in the correct orientation?

 

[tacticalturnip]

I can't figure out what you mean by "hand crank gearing" - could you describe more or share a pic? Thanks!

Here you go!

 

[HybridVigor]

I have lower hooks from you, ~two years later I'm welding them up now I am also doing top-link now, and figure I'd regret not getting a hook for the top.

Looking through all the pictures, how do folks keep the top hook aligned while unattached? It's on a cylinder, so free-rotating right? Or as a practical matter does it just stay in the correct orientation?

The top link cylinder can rotate as long as there is no pressure on it. I rarely need to adjust mine.

I just added a hook end for the top link about a month ago and so far I like it.

 

[LouNY]

I have a rope attached to the disconnect of the top link hook, when the top link is disconnected the rope is what is holding it.

 

[rScotty]

Here you go!

Thanks tacticalT. The Kioti way of doing the gear and crack adjustable lifting links is a little different than the JD version, but both do the same thing.

Instead of using a turnbuckle and locking nuts to adjust the lifting link length, there is a simple hand crank driving a worm drive gear.
rScotty
It's mechanical rather than hydraulic, but has tremendous mechanical advantage & convenience.

 

[tacticalturnip]

It's so much better than the turnbuckle; it's worth the money for the upgrade if you don't go with a top and tilt.

 

[orangetree]

how did you choose the length range of your cylinder?

It seems the cylinder travel will necessarily be less than my top-link's adjustability:

• the top euro hook reduces the available travel by an inch or three (it's just physically longer than the normal ball)
• a hydraulic cylinder is not simply going to have a shorter adjustment range, given the range taken up around the seals on each end outside the ports.

Further, unsurprisingly the available cylinder ranges are not "perfectly centered" around my particular average length (seems to be around 25", out of a total top link range of 18-30") - so I'll have choose the 7-10" travel I get from the cylinder either in the shorter or longer part of my current 18-30".

Complicating things, today my lower links (telescoping) are ~28" pin to pin, but I am probably going to swap in fixed stock links, which are shorter, I believe - so while today I generally keep the top link around 25", it seems I can/should bring that in some.

Solutions that provide the cake as eat it, too will get the most upvotes Thanks!

(hope I'm not hijacking the thread, happy to make a new one to ask if that's better)

 

[LouNY]

You may end up needing more then one top link if that much variance is required.
This outfit has quite a selection; Spare Parts Holland: CAT 1

 

[Hay Dude]

I have a rope attached to the disconnect of the top link hook, when the top link is disconnected the rope is what is holding it.
View attachment 3217744

Lou is that top link Cat 1 or Cat 2?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Lou is that top link Cat 1 or Cat 2?

Cat 1 is what it says in the print with both ends having 3/4" holes. I doubt that the hook end has a 1 3/4" wide implement ball though.