advice on welding rods

[laurencen]

Hi all, its been years since I used a arc welder, got a miller 250 gas welder and have to weld a trailer for a boat on site, I have no problems doing horizontal butt welds bit I will be doing 50% vertical and 30% overhead, my queston what rods are recomended and thaughts on ac or dc including the rod selection

thanks in advance

 

[JB4310]

Hi all, its been years since I used a arc welder, got a miller 250 gas welder and have to weld a trailer for a boat on site, I have no problems doing horizontal butt welds bit I will be doing 50% vertical and 30% overhead, my queston what rods are recomended and thaughts on ac or dc including the rod selection

thanks in advance

I'm just a hack welder who never even knew there were numbers on rods for the first 10 years I welded, with the ac buzz box I found on the side of the road. Used any rod I could find that was free.

I would say DC for sure, and 1/8" 7018 is always a good starting point. Since I got DC capability, that rod seems to be all I need, even when other rods should be more suitable for an application, I end up doing a better job with the 7018.

If you have little experience welding out of position, that's gonna be a challenge. Is this a critical application where the trailer is gonna go down the road? if so how big of a boat are we talking about?

JB

 

[BrianR]

Mig is going to be easier to weld out of position with, in my opinion. Can you get access to a portable 120v MIG welder, such as a Handler 120? I once welded a broken cylinder bracket on the discharge auger of a Case IH combine (in the field) using a gas generator to power the welder from the bed of a pickup truck. Hauled the welder up to the grain bin, and welded it back together in the dark (trying to beat rain that night).

 

[cowski]

1/8 6011 about a 100 on dc would be a good starting point.

 

[odleo]

Please don't use a 110 MIG machine use at least a 220 MIG machine but since you asked about rods. I would use either a 6010 or 7018. I use multiple passes and start with a 6010 and the fill cap with 7018. Just.remember 7018 is not q downhill rod

 

[EMB5530]

Just my opinion but 7018 cleans a little hard and if you have not welded in some time I would go w/ 6011 just b/c it will lay down easier if you are not good at getting a good strike and weld going every time and it will also clean easier for a 2nd pass especially if you are overheading and not used to it there should surely be several passes. But if you are worried about strength and think that laying down a clean bead is no problem for ya, 7018 does lay down nice and have more toughness.

My experience comes from my miller bobcat 250
Like I say though this is my opinion and I am not sure I have ever used two pipeling welders that have operated the exact same. Final AdviseBuy small tubes of each type 6011 or 6013 and 7018 maybe even diffrent sizes 3/16, 1/8 and I also find 1/16 very useful for pain in the butt spots that you might burn through

hope this was helpfull
Eric

 

[drizler]

6011:thumbsup: Simple to use, strikes fairly easy and sticks quickly. Cheap too and not very moisture sensative. I have some that still works and it's so old some of the coating is beginning to fall off. Last time I got some Tractor Supply had Hobart brand 5lbs / $17.00

 

[flusher]

Hi all, its been years since I used a arc welder, got a miller 250 gas welder and have to weld a trailer for a boat on site, I have no problems doing horizontal butt welds bit I will be doing 50% vertical and 30% overhead, my queston what rods are recomended and thaughts on ac or dc including the rod selection

thanks in advance

I'd try 7014 drag rods which can be used in any position. They're less sensitive to moisture than 7018 and easier to use. I use DC positive and 100-130 amps with 1/8" rod depending on thickness of the material.

 

[laurencen]

more info, the boat is a 32 foot cruiser, had no trailer and the previous owner put it on a mobile home trailer, my plan is to cut both front and back off, use the original hitch spliced on the front and fabricate the cross members, this is not for pulling the boat around daily more to the lake each year and allow me to have the boat sitting at my home to work on rather than the marina.

The Bobcat 250 works fine, I did cut the front off and tack the hitch in place, was trying 7014 but on AC 5/32 rods, they were not working well vertical due to size, the web of the I beam is 3/16.

I will get some 1/8 rods and give it a try on DC, assume the electrode is the positive.

Laurence

 

[laurencen]

How do I inseert pictures in a reply? it would show what I am doing

 

[laurencen]

 

[k0ua]

go down below the box where you reply, and click on manage attachments button. a window will open, browse to your photo's, and attach up to 4 at a time, scroll down in that window there is a close button, press it and continue with your post, and submit when done. If you need more than 4 you can do it over. Remember that the max size is 1000 KB or 1Meg. so the large high pixel count pictures will need to be resized with some software on your PC before you attach them.. I generally shoot for about 950 kb. and use my photo editing software to resave them out at that size. good luck

James K0UA

 

[laurencen]

here are a few pictures prior to cutting off the front

 

[laurencen]

here is a picture prior to cutting the front off

 

[laurencen]

different angle shot, will take some tomorrow of the front tacked in place

 

[bcb]

i would use 6011 just so you penatrate the steel then go whit the 70 18 to finish it off makes it more solid and 7018 rod do not penatrate as good as 6011 will just my 2 cents and mig is good but never as solid as the good old electric weelder

 

[bcb]

remember by rod u need to pull not push mig u need to push unless u are upwards u can go down just got a welding course

 

[JB4310]

That IS a big heavy boat, and since you will be going down the road I call that a critical application. Especially the tongue area.

Looks like you have a good starting point with that trailer, as long as it's rated high enough for the weight of the boat. The way it sits between the rails like that is nice, but it probably has to come up higher?

Since it seems unanimous to start with the 6011, I would try that first.

JB

 

[laurencen]

the boat has a dry weight of 10500 pounds, the axles and tires have a rating of 5000 each axle, I plan on removing one axle and getting the other 3 closer together, they have a space between wheels of 22 inches, this will allow it to turn easier.

the boat will float in 30 inches of water and the trailer is that again, mosy likely it will be slung on a gantry at least here, there is no way I could back down a launch and get that depth of water without swamping the rear of the truck.

Once the front is wekded I will be adding a front support which will also add structure to the frame, a couple of 1/2 x 8 flats on the inner rail to match the hull angle and cap with 2 x 10 pressure treated wood that the boat sits on.

Fenders will be fabricated and welded to the farme

 

[bcb]

very nice project men good job