Amco Offset Disc

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian,
I have heard the Mahindra 100hp tractor will be better than the TYM. Hopefully it will be way heavier.
hugs, Brandi

I believe that it is the same basic tractor. It has a few different things, not really better, just different. Hopefully I can check it out later this week.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Get those axles fixed and the dual wheels installed and pull it with what you have. If the tractor wont pull it, lighten the load by carrying it with the hydraulics/wheels. At least you shouldn't have any trouble with it going in the ground. Just because it has 22 or 24" blades and 4" hubs doesn't mean that you need to disk till the hubs drag. 6" should be plenty deep to disc and your tractor should pull that disc ok on that depth.

 

[bindian]

Dudes, (to borrow a word from my high school days) I am so pumped.:cool2: I got one set of remote QDs replaced today (this one was wore out anyway, as the backhoe kept popping it off) and took it out, just now, after dark and put it in the ground. I started out in first and kept shifting up to 5th gear. I was running between 1500 and 2000 in a counter clockwise large circle. I normally drive around my place in 6th gear, so this was exciting to me.:cloud9: Now, to justify Brian's concerns, when I went a little too far left in a curve, I felt my rear end and the tractors rear end pull a little to the left:thumbsdown:.....................so I need rear weights.:thumbsup: The disced ground was nicely prepared after two passes. The far right did show a small furrow. We did have ONE inch of rain this morning, so it was no hard ground. Overall I am tickled pink.

Now, the cylinder will not lift the disc high enough to get the up lock bracket's "transport" hole to line up. It is about 2.5 inches from the hole. Same thing in the wheels up position........it is about 2.5 inches short of that lock hole. So either something is not adjusted right in the tongue hitch spring adjustment to cylinder assembly........or the cylinder's stroke is too short. I don't see how the cylinder is too short when it won't reach either up or down lock holes. I do want to get it in the lock position with wheels down and disc up. I am not much concerned about the wheels not reaching the "all the way" up lock hole.
So overall I am beside myself.:dance1::cool2::drink::cloud9::licking::thumbsup:die::jump::applause::number1: My tractor will pull it, it just needs more rear weight.

Also, my tractor will not lift the rear of the disc with my backhoe off the tractor. My left rear wheel came off the ground fast. Glad I got lots of hours working that loader and slammed the joystick in the right direction to lower that wheel. That really scared me for a second when I forgot my backhoe counterweight was gone.:embarrassed::banghead::duh:ullinghair::worried::guilty::sorry::gloomy:
hugs, Brandi:us-texas::cowgirl:

 

[bindian]

I believe that it is the same basic tractor. It has a few different things, not really better, just different. Hopefully I can check it out later this week.

Brian,
I thought the TYM is made in Korea and the Mahindra 100hp tractor is made in India. Am I wrong?
hugs, Brandi

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian,
I thought the TYM is made in Korea and the Mahindra 100hp tractor is made in India. Am I wrong?
hugs, Brandi

Brandi, the 100hp Mahindra is a TYM tractor, built with some Mahindra specs. It is not a true Mahindra machine built in a Mahindra factory. Basically another 10 series tractor. I'm sure that it is a nice machine though. :confused3: Last year when I was told that Mahindra was working on a 100hp and even bigger machine, I had apparently mistaken the implecations of the conversation with the Mahindra VP as that those machines were going to be bigger improved 8560s. :scratchchin:

 

[texasjohn]

Just FYI...my technique is to make at least 2 passes. First (for squareish field) is to go on a diagonal, kinda from one corner to the opposite corner, then straight up and down. The dirt really flies with the second pass. If I need to do 3 passes, then it's one diagonal, opposite diagonal, then up and down. Point is, a cross hatch pattern seems to do a better job for me than just back and forth.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

View attachment 302638View attachment 302639View attachment 302640

Nothing like some fresh tilled soil. :thumbsup: That is an old Kilfer-JD 12' disk with 22" blades cutting axle deep.

 

[bindian]

Brandi, the 100hp Mahindra is a TYM tractor, built with some Mahindra specs. It is not a true Mahindra machine built in a Mahindra factory. Basically another 10 series tractor. I'm sure that it is a nice machine though. :confused3: Last year when I was told that Mahindra was working on a 100hp and even bigger machine, I had apparently mistaken the implecations of the conversation with the Mahindra VP as that those machines were going to be bigger improved 8560s. :scratchchin:

Sucky sucky!
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

View attachment 302638View attachment 302639View attachment 302640

Nothing like some fresh tilled soil. :thumbsup: That is an old Kilfer-JD 12' disk with 22" blades cutting axle deep. [/QUOTE
Brian,
Does that tube running to the aft gangs adjust the "toe in and toe out" of the offset?
Sure seeks lite weight, but looks like it is working as designed. I like the photos. How about so more?
hugs, Brandi

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian,
Does that tube running to the aft gangs adjust the "toe in and toe out" of the offset?
Sure seeks lite weight, but looks like it is working as designed. I like the photos. How about so more?
hugs, Brandi

Yes that "tube" that is actually a 2" dia solid bar adjusts the angle set for the disk. I suppose that it is light weight for being a 12' disk. It only weighs a bit over 4000lbs. It has enough drag that the 7520 can only pull it on flat ground for a first cut. It will not pull it for a second final disking. The old D6 does a pretty good job though. In the picture with the 7520, I am pulling the 8' Kilfer disk that I have. That is the disk that I pull most of the time with the 7520 and with the hills that we have, it really is about all the tractor wants. Oh, and it weighs about 2600-2800lbs. I could never pull your disk axle deep on our property with the 7520.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I was running between 1500 and 2000 in a counter clockwise large circle. I normally drive around my place in 6th gear, so this was exciting to me.:cloud9: :

Turning to the left (counterclockwise) will naturally make the disc come out of the ground a bit especially in sharp turns. It has been a long time since I used one but the way the tongue is offset it is easier to turn in one direction (right IIRC) than the other. Attempting to turn sharply in the wrong direction with cause your tractor tires to hang on the disc tongue, but you may have figured this out already. Be extremely careful if you have to make a left hand turn so you don't rip up your tires.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When pulling an offset disk, you always turn to the left. Turning to the right CAN cause problems of many different kinds.

 

[bindian]

When pulling an offset disk, you always turn to the left. Turning to the right CAN cause problems of many different kinds.

This is what I read also and why my trial runs did a left hand large circle. My 6520 has a pretty long drawbar and I would never turn that tight. When we were little, my brother and I busted the thin stamped metal hitch off of our 8hp lawn tractor with the tongue of Dad's small, homemade, utility trailer.
Dad tanned our hides over that. No, I'll never turn that tight again!
Brian,
I wonder how your 7520 would pull with R1s instead of R4s. Have you ever gave that any thought?
hugs, Brandi

 

[MtnViewRanch]

This is what I read also and why my trial runs did a left hand large circle. My 6520 has a pretty long drawbar and I would never turn that tight. When we were little, my brother and I busted the thin stamped metal hitch off of our 8hp lawn tractor with the tongue of Dad's small, homemade, utility trailer.
Dad tanned our hides over that. No, I'll never turn that tight again!
Brian,
I wonder how your 7520 would pull with R1s instead of R4s. Have you ever gave that any thought?
hugs, Brandi[/QUOTE

Brandi, I am sure that it would be better,(30% better) but with all the weight that I have,(10K without the loader) it is not traction that I loose, I just don't have the hp to pull it. So the AGs would give me more pull, but at a speed that would be to slow for disking.

When I bought the 7520, our property had recently been burned and there was chared 2"-4" branches everywhere. I venture to say that AG tires might have made it part of a day, not much more without getting a flat. My 10 ply R4s have held up very well. :thumbsup:

 

[flusher]

Dudes, (to borrow a word from my high school days) I am so pumped.:cool2: I got one set of remote QDs replaced today (this one was wore out anyway, as the backhoe kept popping it off) and took it out, just now, after dark and put it in the ground. I started out in first and kept shifting up to 5th gear. I was running between 1500 and 2000 in a counter clockwise large circle. I normally drive around my place in 6th gear, so this was exciting to me.:cloud9: Now, to justify Brian's concerns, when I went a little too far left in a curve, I felt my rear end and the tractors rear end pull a little to the left:thumbsdown:.....................so I need rear weights.:thumbsup: The disced ground was nicely prepared after two passes. The far right did show a small furrow. We did have ONE inch of rain this morning, so it was no hard ground. Overall I am tickled pink.


hugs, Brandi:us-texas::cowgirl:

I modified the hitch on that tandem disc I mentioned earlier in this thread. Now it's a pintle/lunette (ring) type that attaches to the 3pt hitch. Gives me an up/down adjustment with the 3pt hitch hydraulics to level the disc from the tractor seat. The original leveling screw/crank assembly on my disk was a bear to turn. I too old to fart around with it. Much better to use the hydraulics. And connecting that pintle hitch is easier than hooking the disk to the drawbar.



Just a thought.

 

[npalen]

This is what I read also and why my trial runs did a left hand large circle. My 6520 has a pretty long drawbar and I would never turn that tight. When we were little, my brother and I busted the thin stamped metal hitch off of our 8hp lawn tractor with the tongue of Dad's small, homemade, utility trailer.
Dad tanned our hides over that. No, I'll never turn that tight again!
Brian,
I wonder how your 7520 would pull with R1s instead of R4s. Have you ever gave that any thought?
hugs, Brandi

One exception to the go fast-turn left rule: Back in the 60's and 70's the company I worked for sold a lot of offset discs. They had a dealer that I believe was located out in the Palouse region where they farm very steep slopes. The farmers insisted on going around the hills in a certain direction but the disc worked better in the other direction due to the extreme slopes. So the manufacturer, Sunflower, built left handed discs so these farmers could go around the hills in the direction they were accustomed to.

Edit: We used what were called OneWays back in the fifties like in this video. They were definitely "turn left" otherwise turning right meant a very large circle to prevent the disc getting tangled up with the tractor.
John Deere Surflex disktiller oneway - YouTube

 

[bindian]

I took the cylinder and forwar mount off today. I thought the forward mount was some type of swing link, with all the movement it had. Along with it just being pinned. As it turns out, I now think it is suppose to be bolted and fixed in position. The holes are way enlarged and I am planning on buying larger bolts and reaming the holes. That will take some slack out of the cylinder in it's operation raising and more importantly, lowering the wheels. As you can see in the photo, the pins were really worn.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I think I found the most likely culprit of the cylinder not getting the wheels all the way down to the lock hole. Seems the hole the cylinder shaft rod end mounts to is way egg shaped. I am either going to have to remove the whole wheel axles assembly or take the whole disc to the welding shop and have a half moon shaped "filler" chunk of 5/8 inch steel welded in that hole. Hopefully, if I make the filler right, it won't have to be reamed.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

After taking all the wheel up and down lock assembly apart, I realized all the parts are not original. The sliding bracket that has the holes to lock the wheels up or down does not work even with the wheels jacked all the way up until the assembly hits the frame. So I need to fix all the holes I can with bigger bolts or pins, weld the one hole, then try to adjust it all to hit the down lock hole...................and drill a new wheel uplock hole the cylinder can move the wheels up to hit. As you can see in the photo, the hole is about 3/4 inch too far aft when the wheels are all the way up against the frame.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Here is a composite of earlier photos so Y'all can see where all the parts I took apart in the above posts, go.
hugs, Brandi