Posts are correct, & you want to put the pressure switch at the house. I've 5 years on about 250' of 1.5" schedule 40 PVC (20' lengths with 1 bell shaped end, glued) in sandy soil (no rocks) at 12" depth - but then I'm on the coast of South Carolina. Only problem I've had was when a cement truck parked over the pipeline while waiting to pump concrete into the floor mold for my garage/apartment. Broke the pipe, which was fixed in about 15 minutes with the usual materials. I've since driven over the entire pipe line (as I did multiple times after laying it) with my tractor and box bladed dirt into any depressions made. Should be tightly packed - I hope, but will find out the next time a cement truck chooses that exact location to park for an hour.
BEST way to set up a long water main?
- Thread starter Westonium
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Posts are correct, & you want to put the pressure switch at the house. I've 5 years on about 250' of 1.5" schedule 40 PVC (20' lengths with 1 bell shaped end, glued) in sandy soil (no rocks) at 12" depth - but then I'm on the coast of South Carolina. Only problem I've had was when a cement truck parked over the pipeline while waiting to pump concrete into the floor mold for my garage/apartment. Broke the pipe, which was fixed in about 15 minutes with the usual materials. I've since driven over the entire pipe line (as I did multiple times after laying it) with my tractor and box bladed dirt into any depressions made. Should be tightly packed - I hope, but will find out the next time a cement truck chooses that exact location to park for an hour.
Highbeam
Super Member
I use schedule 40 pvc for my constantly pressurized runs of irrigation system ahead of the control valves. I haven't broken one yet with the city pressure of 50 psi. C-900 is heavy wall gasketed pvc that we specify for pvc water mains (sewer too) in the 6-8" or larger range. I'm not sure how Schedule 40 compares to C900. This is only a 600 foot service line from your well to your home. 1.5" Schedule 40 is fine.
I like the black PE rolls but you didn't offer that as an option.
You'll have a pump controller box with the soft start doodad and the pressure switch should meet the boxes specs. The switch is just a spring loaded on/off deal. Don't worry too much about voltage just follow directions on the control box. Very few submersible well pumps are 110 volt. Almost all are 220 even down to the 1/2 HP models.
From the pump controller box there will be 4 wires that need to run all the way to the pump. You can bury them with the water main.
I like the black PE rolls but you didn't offer that as an option.
You'll have a pump controller box with the soft start doodad and the pressure switch should meet the boxes specs. The switch is just a spring loaded on/off deal. Don't worry too much about voltage just follow directions on the control box. Very few submersible well pumps are 110 volt. Almost all are 220 even down to the 1/2 HP models.
From the pump controller box there will be 4 wires that need to run all the way to the pump. You can bury them with the water main.
Highbeam
Super Member
I use schedule 40 pvc for my constantly pressurized runs of irrigation system ahead of the control valves. I haven't broken one yet with the city pressure of 50 psi. C-900 is heavy wall gasketed pvc that we specify for pvc water mains (sewer too) in the 6-8" or larger range. I'm not sure how Schedule 40 compares to C900. This is only a 600 foot service line from your well to your home. 1.5" Schedule 40 is fine.
I like the black PE rolls but you didn't offer that as an option.
You'll have a pump controller box with the soft start doodad and the pressure switch should meet the boxes specs. The switch is just a spring loaded on/off deal. Don't worry too much about voltage just follow directions on the control box. Very few submersible well pumps are 110 volt. Almost all are 220 even down to the 1/2 HP models.
From the pump controller box there will be 4 wires that need to run all the way to the pump. You can bury them with the water main.
I like the black PE rolls but you didn't offer that as an option.
You'll have a pump controller box with the soft start doodad and the pressure switch should meet the boxes specs. The switch is just a spring loaded on/off deal. Don't worry too much about voltage just follow directions on the control box. Very few submersible well pumps are 110 volt. Almost all are 220 even down to the 1/2 HP models.
From the pump controller box there will be 4 wires that need to run all the way to the pump. You can bury them with the water main.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
{SNIP}I like the black PE rolls but you didn't offer that as an option.
{SNIP}
From the pump controller box there will be 4 wires that need to run all the way to the pump. You can bury them with the water main.
)</font>
I'd love to know more about the PE rolls.
There is no documentation about the pump controller. There were 1 or 2 wire bundles (like irrigation control wires 4-6 color wrapped wires all wrapped in a black insulator) in the trench with the pipe, but those wires don't connect to anything and are broken in several places. I suspect they USED to switch the pump on and off but were disconnected for whatever reason. There are even remnants of heavy gauge wires that make it look like maybe the pump used to be powered from the house, but currently the pump and barn are on their own meter and the power for the pump originates from the meter attached to the barn.
Maybe I should try and track down pump controller documentation?
Can you explain how the 4 wires you mentioned work? Are they high voltage? Is there a way to use a low voltage relay or something?
{SNIP}I like the black PE rolls but you didn't offer that as an option.
{SNIP}
From the pump controller box there will be 4 wires that need to run all the way to the pump. You can bury them with the water main.
)</font>
I'd love to know more about the PE rolls.
There is no documentation about the pump controller. There were 1 or 2 wire bundles (like irrigation control wires 4-6 color wrapped wires all wrapped in a black insulator) in the trench with the pipe, but those wires don't connect to anything and are broken in several places. I suspect they USED to switch the pump on and off but were disconnected for whatever reason. There are even remnants of heavy gauge wires that make it look like maybe the pump used to be powered from the house, but currently the pump and barn are on their own meter and the power for the pump originates from the meter attached to the barn.
Maybe I should try and track down pump controller documentation?
Can you explain how the 4 wires you mentioned work? Are they high voltage? Is there a way to use a low voltage relay or something?
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
{SNIP}I like the black PE rolls but you didn't offer that as an option.
{SNIP}
From the pump controller box there will be 4 wires that need to run all the way to the pump. You can bury them with the water main.
)</font>
I'd love to know more about the PE rolls.
There is no documentation about the pump controller. There were 1 or 2 wire bundles (like irrigation control wires 4-6 color wrapped wires all wrapped in a black insulator) in the trench with the pipe, but those wires don't connect to anything and are broken in several places. I suspect they USED to switch the pump on and off but were disconnected for whatever reason. There are even remnants of heavy gauge wires that make it look like maybe the pump used to be powered from the house, but currently the pump and barn are on their own meter and the power for the pump originates from the meter attached to the barn.
Maybe I should try and track down pump controller documentation?
Can you explain how the 4 wires you mentioned work? Are they high voltage? Is there a way to use a low voltage relay or something?
{SNIP}I like the black PE rolls but you didn't offer that as an option.
{SNIP}
From the pump controller box there will be 4 wires that need to run all the way to the pump. You can bury them with the water main.
)</font>
I'd love to know more about the PE rolls.
There is no documentation about the pump controller. There were 1 or 2 wire bundles (like irrigation control wires 4-6 color wrapped wires all wrapped in a black insulator) in the trench with the pipe, but those wires don't connect to anything and are broken in several places. I suspect they USED to switch the pump on and off but were disconnected for whatever reason. There are even remnants of heavy gauge wires that make it look like maybe the pump used to be powered from the house, but currently the pump and barn are on their own meter and the power for the pump originates from the meter attached to the barn.
Maybe I should try and track down pump controller documentation?
Can you explain how the 4 wires you mentioned work? Are they high voltage? Is there a way to use a low voltage relay or something?
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Is there a way to use a low voltage relay or something?
You should definitely use a relay, sometimes called a contactor. Otherwise you will need to run 600 feet of very heavy gauge wire from the pressure switch at the house to the pump.
You didn't mention a pressure tank, but I presume you have one since you have a pressure switch. The tank should go to the house with the pressure switch. Otherwise the pressure will be much higher than it needs to be.
You should definitely use a relay, sometimes called a contactor. Otherwise you will need to run 600 feet of very heavy gauge wire from the pressure switch at the house to the pump.
You didn't mention a pressure tank, but I presume you have one since you have a pressure switch. The tank should go to the house with the pressure switch. Otherwise the pressure will be much higher than it needs to be.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Is there a way to use a low voltage relay or something?
You should definitely use a relay, sometimes called a contactor. Otherwise you will need to run 600 feet of very heavy gauge wire from the pressure switch at the house to the pump.
You didn't mention a pressure tank, but I presume you have one since you have a pressure switch. The tank should go to the house with the pressure switch. Otherwise the pressure will be much higher than it needs to be.
You should definitely use a relay, sometimes called a contactor. Otherwise you will need to run 600 feet of very heavy gauge wire from the pressure switch at the house to the pump.
You didn't mention a pressure tank, but I presume you have one since you have a pressure switch. The tank should go to the house with the pressure switch. Otherwise the pressure will be much higher than it needs to be.
Highbeam
Super Member
You have four wires for an 220 volt AC pump. 1 ground, 1 for each phase of the 220 power, and one for the soft start function. You'll see the 4 wire kits at the water supply places.
Since you are providing power at the well and then pumping water 70 feet uphill to the house things get a little tricky. It would be really cool if you could find an adjustable pressure switch to mount near the well and the control box. The pressure settings would have to be higher to make up for the elevation change to the house. I can calc it for you. The benefit being that all the electrical parts are in one place.
If you can't find a prssure switch that will accomodate the higher pressure settings at the wellhouse then you will have to have a wire between the home mounted switch and the control box.
The pressure tank can be mounted anywhere in the system but it would be ideal at the house instead of by the well since water will rush out of the tank when you open a faucet and you will see less surging with the pressure tank closer to the point of use.
I responded to your PM about PE pipe. That's what we use here for service lines. I have used it myself with great success. Driscopipe, uniroyal, and others make it. 200 PSI rated and can be welded, stab fittings, or compression fittings.
Since you are providing power at the well and then pumping water 70 feet uphill to the house things get a little tricky. It would be really cool if you could find an adjustable pressure switch to mount near the well and the control box. The pressure settings would have to be higher to make up for the elevation change to the house. I can calc it for you. The benefit being that all the electrical parts are in one place.
If you can't find a prssure switch that will accomodate the higher pressure settings at the wellhouse then you will have to have a wire between the home mounted switch and the control box.
The pressure tank can be mounted anywhere in the system but it would be ideal at the house instead of by the well since water will rush out of the tank when you open a faucet and you will see less surging with the pressure tank closer to the point of use.
I responded to your PM about PE pipe. That's what we use here for service lines. I have used it myself with great success. Driscopipe, uniroyal, and others make it. 200 PSI rated and can be welded, stab fittings, or compression fittings.
Highbeam
Super Member
You have four wires for an 220 volt AC pump. 1 ground, 1 for each phase of the 220 power, and one for the soft start function. You'll see the 4 wire kits at the water supply places.
Since you are providing power at the well and then pumping water 70 feet uphill to the house things get a little tricky. It would be really cool if you could find an adjustable pressure switch to mount near the well and the control box. The pressure settings would have to be higher to make up for the elevation change to the house. I can calc it for you. The benefit being that all the electrical parts are in one place.
If you can't find a prssure switch that will accomodate the higher pressure settings at the wellhouse then you will have to have a wire between the home mounted switch and the control box.
The pressure tank can be mounted anywhere in the system but it would be ideal at the house instead of by the well since water will rush out of the tank when you open a faucet and you will see less surging with the pressure tank closer to the point of use.
I responded to your PM about PE pipe. That's what we use here for service lines. I have used it myself with great success. Driscopipe, uniroyal, and others make it. 200 PSI rated and can be welded, stab fittings, or compression fittings.
Since you are providing power at the well and then pumping water 70 feet uphill to the house things get a little tricky. It would be really cool if you could find an adjustable pressure switch to mount near the well and the control box. The pressure settings would have to be higher to make up for the elevation change to the house. I can calc it for you. The benefit being that all the electrical parts are in one place.
If you can't find a prssure switch that will accomodate the higher pressure settings at the wellhouse then you will have to have a wire between the home mounted switch and the control box.
The pressure tank can be mounted anywhere in the system but it would be ideal at the house instead of by the well since water will rush out of the tank when you open a faucet and you will see less surging with the pressure tank closer to the point of use.
I responded to your PM about PE pipe. That's what we use here for service lines. I have used it myself with great success. Driscopipe, uniroyal, and others make it. 200 PSI rated and can be welded, stab fittings, or compression fittings.
