Building dump trailer

[Ford960]

That's a nice looking trailer, your workmanship is great.

Based on my Bri-mar I have a couple of comments:

The tailgate will hit the load as you try to pull forward. The gate will lift and the left hinge will be bent, damaged.

The tongue jack will try to twist the frame, should be closer to the hitch/centerline.

The load shift will try to lift the tongue, be carefull of your tractor hitch or wheels leaving the ground. Mine will apply so much up force that my F350 dually looses traction. That's why I use a pintle hitch.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e380/Capt-Ron/Dump%20Trailer/28AUG06_1817.jpg

Also, this Bri-mar with as new tires, new group 31 battery, surge brakes, and title costs me less than your materials.

Good Luck

 

[chrpmaster]

Great trailer build wushaw. I liked all the pictures too.

I was wondering what model pump you have and where you got it? I have been looking for a similar one and haven't had any luck.

Thanks
Andy

 

[wushaw]

Great trailer build wushaw. I liked all the pictures too.

I was wondering what model pump you have and where you got it? I have been looking for a similar one and haven't had any luck.

Thanks
Andy

Thanks Andy

I will get the model # tomorrow but it is a Monarch with power down feature. I got it off of Ebay for 248.00 shipped.

 

[wushaw]

That's a nice looking trailer, your workmanship is great.

Based on my Bri-mar I have a couple of comments:

The tailgate will hit the load as you try to pull forward. The gate will lift and the left hinge will be bent, damaged.

The tongue jack will try to twist the frame, should be closer to the hitch/centerline.

The load shift will try to lift the tongue, be carefull of your tractor hitch or wheels leaving the ground. Mine will apply so much up force that my F350 dually looses traction. That's why I use a pintle hitch.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e380/Capt-Ron/Dump%20Trailer/28AUG06_1817.jpg

Also, this Bri-mar with as new tires, new group 31 battery, surge brakes, and title costs me less than your materials.

Good Luck

Why does it only bend the L/H hinge?


I don't see how the tounge jack is gonna bend when it will be rotated up when in use. Also I don't have any plans on loading it without it connected to whatever will be pulling it since it will probably bend the frame or jack, it does fine with the 305lbs empty tounge weight right now.

I never had any problems unloading 18k off my 8X16 GN dump trailer and 3500 GMC which was the heaviest load on that trailer I ever had.

You got a good deal on your trailer, I couldn't find one under 3500.00 around here and I got some good hands on experience with alot of personel satisfaction of putting this all together by myself

 

[wushaw]

Chrpmaster; The model # on the pump is 8111-S and the # on the solonoid wiring schematic is M-3551.

 

[wushaw]

Well I finally got a chance to try out the dump trailer and with anything you build you find things that need to be changed but it did what I wanted it to do....dump a full load or dirt.

I did have to use the tractors draw bar instead of the 3pt hitch since half of a full load was a little light in the ft. end..... even with 354lbs up ft.

Ford960 was correct on bending the tailgate , it happened on the third load, the last picture shows my fix to that and still have the ability to remove the tailgate with only minimial effort.

I also put a cord hanger to hold the cord so I don't have to disconnect and re-connect constantly.

The little Mitsubishi did just fine except for trying to start off on any kind of an incline.....that 2wd thing...locked diff or not...spin rear tires...

Overall I am very happy with my little mini-dump trailer

 

[GuglioLS]

Al,

Your dump trailer came out looking great, A project that big having only a few kinks is very admirable. You should be very proud of the way it turned out. Great craftsmanship and the color coordination gives it the finishing touches. So what's next?

Larry

 

[sandman2234]

I understand why you went with the electric/hydraulic pump, but I was wondering since you pull it with the tractor most of the time, if it is possible to route a couple of pumps into the cylinder so you could run it off the tractor whenever you are pulling it with the tractor. Seems like an easy thing to do, by just adding a block and a couple of valves, or a single valve to Y it into the block. That would eleminate the problem of battery charging cycle time. I know that pump draws more than you really want it to during a heavy dump cycle, so using the tractors hydraulics would give you more time when you are doing heavy dumps consecutively with little time to recharge.
David from jax
(My dump trailer only uses tractor hydraulics, so installing a pump so that I can pull it behind my pickup for an occasional cross town dump without the tractor would be nice. You can be my ginnie pig to see how to do it, lol)
David

 

[wushaw]

Thanks GuglioLS I have several projects in line waiting on money and winter, it's just too hot working with metal in the Texas summers when I don't have too.

Sandman2234, I don't want to run the hydraulics off the tractor since I may also pull it with my Jeep if I need to.
My dirt projects also are not time critical so if I run the battery down then I will just put it on charge and drink a beer

 

[sandman2234]

I understand. The other reason I mentioned it was because a guy brought a load of dirt and dumped it here, and I had to use my tractor to pull some of the dirt out, because the battery wouldn't run the pump enough to lift the overloaded trailer. Once we got it partially unloaded, the weak battery finished raising the bed. Too early in the day for him to go drink a beer, so we went another route.
David from jax