Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor

   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Maybe? What size is your tractor, or what size are you thinking about? Usually a good idea to get a rear blade about 12"-18" wider than your tractor.

I seem to be homing in on a 35-45 hp.
 
   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor #12  
I seem to be homing in on a 35-45 hp.

Well, if that is the case, then no, a few hundred is not going to do it. The ones that I would be considering are hydraulic angle and offset. If you are lucky, you might be able to find a new one around $2500-$3000. :eek: You will need either an 84" or 96" blade. Look on Craigslist and or Ebay, you might find a deal. One guy here did a few months ago, got a $3K Land Pride blade for $1K.

Take a look at these, Land Pride RBT35 Series Rear Blades There are other manufacturers also.
 
   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor #13  
You never know when a real deal comes along. Patience is a virtue. I was lucky and found this blade for a grand with a cord of wood to go with it. These Land Prides are built. I have a box blade that came with my tractor, but it is not built like this Land Pride blade. I will be putting this blade to work and will post some pic's.
 

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   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor #14  
You never know when a real deal comes along. Patience is a virtue. I was lucky and found this blade for a grand with a cord of wood to go with it. These Land Prides are built. I have a box blade that came with my tractor, but it is not built like this Land Pride blade. I will be putting this blade to work and will post some pic's.

Ken, if you decide that you need to sell that blade, I will be happy to purchase it from you, even pay a little more so that you can make a buck or two. ;) I'm looking for an RBT3584, but that 40 would work juuuust fine.
 
   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor #15  
Study use of geofabric. It is about like weed blocker material but stronger. Basically, remove top soil lay down fabric and then road base on top. The fabric keeps rock from migrating/sinking. It is not real expensive, comes in 10' by 300' rolls, can be installed by one man AND reduces the amount of rock base so you actually save money.
Also check on availbility of washout concrete in you area as opposed to blacktop. I built a 300' drive as above and the only maintenance I do is occasionally drag a chain harrow back and forth several times a year.
 
   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor #16  
You never know when a real deal comes along. Patience is a virtue. I was lucky and found this blade for a grand with a cord of wood to go with it. These Land Prides are built. I have a box blade that came with my tractor, but it is not built like this Land Pride blade. I will be putting this blade to work and will post some pic's.


What a deal! I would love to have found that.
 
   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor #17  
A loader, box blade, and either a good angle/tilt/offset rear blade or hydraulic six way blade on the front should do everything you describe. For dirt work I would caution against getting equipment than is wider than needed for the job. On a 35-45hp tractor a good heavy 6' rear blade (600-700lb+) is great for dirt work provided it still covers your tracks. I would stay away from 7' to 8' blades on a tractor that size, we have an 8' blade on a 65hp JD and its all it wants when you really start peeling off a full blade width with it. A six-way front dozer blade is really the ultimate for grading, but they aren't cheap and unless you are doing a lot of work it probably wouldn't pay to get one.

For a box blade and loader bucket I like one that just covers your tracks. The narrower and heavier the implement the better it will dig/cut/push soil. It may not move as many cubic feet of soil per trip, but you will get the most out of your available power.
 
   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor #18  
You never know when a real deal comes along. Patience is a virtue. I was lucky and found this blade for a grand with a cord of wood to go with it. These Land Prides are built. I have a box blade that came with my tractor, but it is not built like this Land Pride blade. I will be putting this blade to work and will post some pic's.

Finding a deal like that is about as rare as finding a stock harley from WW2 stored in some ones barn...
 
   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor #19  
A rear blade works very well at making a road. A good rear blade makes making and maintaining a road that much easier.

while a good rear blade is a good tool.... but for createing roads from scratch you really should consider a box blade as your first step.

it has the ablity to cut much better and move material were you need it to level an area.

Once you have the basics layed for the road with the BB, then you put on a med-heavy duty rear blade and finish it. cut ditches on either side, crown, flatten etc.

trails are usually dirt, but roads/driveways need to be built up with gravel. depending on frequency of use (and what time of year) a well traveled driveway that will last will need a good base of 2" gravel (CA-6) with a topping crusher run or CA-7

expect a well built (proper base and gravel top) driveway to cost a few thousand dollars worth of gravel.
 
   / Building raods, driveways and trails with a tractor #20  
Re: Building roads, driveways and trails with a tractor

Could someone familiar with the tasks kind of provide the process for building roads/trails/driveways and what attachments/implements are used.

I realize this is a very broad topic and there may be multiple methodologies.

For example, I would like to create a mile or so of decomposed granite walkways, 800 feet of asphalt road and a three car concrete carport.

I realize I won;t get everything right away, but I figure I need to start my education so I can get started on doing them this spring. It might also be important for me to decide which tractors I should consider buying for this use.

thanks

Hey TX, welcome to the forum. Here is my opinion. You mention an 800' drive, prepped for asphalt, a 3 car carport, plus, I assume, turn around area and a mile of trail. You also mention a lot of trees.

Bring in a dozer/excavation company. The project is beyond a 35-45 hp tractor, with backhoe, unless you have 100's of hours available. Do able, ya, practical, not for me.

There will be an enormous amount of finish grading after the heavy equipment. Then a small tractor really shines.

MarkV
 
 

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