Electric brakes issues Info need

HHR · Sep 30, 2014

Diamondpilot said:
I'm surprised. The F series trucks have had them as an option since 2005. You would think the E series would also. Chris

No surprise to me. The E-series still uses the 2-valve 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L which hasn't been available in the F-series since 2004. At least they upgraded to the TorqShift 5-speed auto on the V10 models.

RedDog · Sep 30, 2014

HK45 said:
Need some help. I have A 2014 Cornpro 25FT deckover with electric brakes. My brakes never seem to work well. Can somebody help me understand how trailer brakes are supposed to work. Should the trailer brakes alone be able to stop truck and trailer? I just had trailer inspected and brakes adjust per dexter, But they never seem to work well. If I'm coming down a hill I have to go slow because I can Barely stop. By the time i get home mY trailer brakes and truck brakes smell bad like they are really burning up. If it wasn't for the exhaust brake on my truck I would be really worried. Also will changing over to hydraulic over electric help.

Since you have a new trailer and newer truck, the first thing I would be doing is making sure your trailer has a good ground. Without a good ground you will have all kinds of issues. Put some good grease on your trailer ball, and some dielectric grease on your light cord. Before tearing into anything I would try this easy method first. Good luck,

HK45 · Sep 30, 2014

Im taking it to dealer and having them check it out. Ill let you guys know what it is. Thank for all the info

downslope · Sep 30, 2014

Do you know how to go about testing the factory controller and truck wiring? Can you use a tester like this:

7 Way Trailer Connector Vehicle Tester Tow Ready Wiring TR20117

In the description they say it may or may not work, so that's a big help. I have this model tester but all it does is blink very faintly on the brake circuit and no change when you step on the brake or activate the controller manually. I tried to use my friend's trailer, but no brake action.

What is the right way to test the controller and wiring; it's a 2008 GMC factory controller. Do I have to take it to the dealer to have them tell me something is wrong with the controller? It's really never been used. There is no error message on the DIC and it does display the gain setting. All the other functions on the 7-pin check out good.

kevinj · Oct 1, 2014

downslope said:
Do you know how to go about testing the factory controller and truck wiring? Can you use a tester like this:

7 Way Trailer Connector Vehicle Tester Tow Ready Wiring TR20117

In the description they say it may or may not work, so that's a big help. I have this model tester but all it does is blink very faintly on the brake circuit and no change when you step on the brake or activate the controller manually. I tried to use my friend's trailer, but no brake action.

What is the right way to test the controller and wiring; it's a 2008 GMC factory controller. Do I have to take it to the dealer to have them tell me something is wrong with the controller? It's really never been used. There is no error message on the DIC and it does display the gain setting. All the other functions on the 7-pin check out good.

Is the wiring hooked up in the box???? Is the brake fuse good??? By your description you have no volts to your plug

oliver1555 · Oct 1, 2014

downslope said:
Do you know how to go about testing the factory controller and truck wiring? Can you use a tester like this:

7 Way Trailer Connector Vehicle Tester Tow Ready Wiring TR20117

In the description they say it may or may not work, so that's a big help. I have this model tester but all it does is blink very faintly on the brake circuit and no change when you step on the brake or activate the controller manually. I tried to use my friend's trailer, but no brake action.

What is the right way to test the controller and wiring; it's a 2008 GMC factory controller. Do I have to take it to the dealer to have them tell me something is wrong with the controller? It's really never been used. There is no error message on the DIC and it does display the gain setting. All the other functions on the 7-pin check out good.

You need to be able to check for voltage with a multimeter. Voltage should increase as controller is depressed. If you don't have a multimeter, an old heater blower motor works great. As the voltage increases, the blower speeds up.

downslope · Oct 1, 2014

oliver1555 said:
You need to be able to check for voltage with a multimeter. Voltage should increase as controller is depressed. If you don't have a multimeter, an old heater blower motor works great. As the voltage increases, the blower speeds up.

I have a multimeter, but I guess the question is does the circuit need a load on it similar to the brake magnets in order for the factory brake controller to sense that it's connected so it operates properly and sends output voltage down the wire? Or can I just put the multimeter to the brake pin on the connector (and ground) and measure open circuit voltage?

Have any of you ever had the factory controller go bad and need replacement? I suspect it might be expensive to replace the OEM controller; or would you just go with an after market unit at that point? When the truck was just under 3 years old they replaced a brake pressure sensor in the controller circuit, but that was under warrantee. When that problem cropped up I was getting a trailer brake error message on the DIC; there is no error code showing now.

I will try to check the fuse and wire connection under the hood.

Soundguy · Oct 1, 2014

Load it with the magnet itself

HK45 · Feb 26, 2015

Finally had the trailer breaks checked out. All four are shot and covered in grease. Good news they are getting replaced under warranty. Bad new why did this happen, and will it happen again.

JimRB · Feb 26, 2015

Wlld guess that the grease seals were not properly installed. The few times I have worked on trailer brakes, the big bearing gets pulled out because the grease seal is still stuck on the hub/drum.

Maybe the unit was overgreased and popped the seals out when the bearings heated up. That theory is grabbing for straws.

Diamondpilot · Feb 26, 2015

It's a seal issue for sure. Make them replace with quality double lip seals with springs in them.

Chris

crazyal · Mar 2, 2015

My guess, over greased. Once the grease heats up it'll expand. Since there's only two ways for it to go and one, pushing the dust cap off the front, isn't likely it'll leak by the seal. It's only a guess of course but seeing grease around the threads makes me think it was the cause. It's why bearing buddies have a vent hole. It's to prevent seal failures when the user fills them with grease.

Sprinklerman · Mar 2, 2015

It looks like you have the grease fitting on the axle tube , thats part of the problem people pump too much grease in to them blowing out the seals . The guy I bught my travel trailer did the same thing . When he sold it to me he said he greased the bearings before every trip . I looked at him and said that the brakes were shot then , I bought the trailer .We had a bet If I was right he would split half the cost . I was right , he kept up his part .

HK45 · Mar 14, 2015

After getting all new brakes trailer still does not stop. Over $1000 has been spent on this brand new trailer, And its not even a year old. 5 new wheel seals replaced wiring ,replaced brakes .So I demanded my money back. CORNPRO PRETTY MUCH SAID TUFF S**T we don't have to do anything for you. The only person helping me is my dealer as he is going to try and sell my trailer and get my money back. So I would advise you to stay clear of CORNPRO and find another manufacture that stands by there product!

Soundguy · Mar 14, 2015

What is the problem? Ebrakes are pretty simple, ebrake hubs, magnets, wireing and controller?

Diamondpilot · Mar 14, 2015

At this point I am doubting the factory controller. You need to try another trailer behind it and try your trailer behind another truck.

Chris

HK45 · Mar 14, 2015

I had my brake controller checked out by Ram all good. When the shop got done test driving with my truck they used there shop truck with aftermarket controller and trailer brakes set on 10 could not lock them up with no load. Its like a freak thing. What sucks is the time and money wasted. My 2014 truck brakes are shot from pulling this thing around with a load on it. Just sucks. I was really shocked how CornPro handled this. Geez I see guys getting new trailers over bare spots not painted on the trailer or some wiring not looking good. I have a real safety issue and they tell me Tuff S**T. Sad but thats the world we live in. Once they have your money they don't care what happens

HK45 · Mar 14, 2015

Soundguy, The shop that worked on the trailer is a Big RV center. They told me from the get go they feel the brakes are to small for the trailer. They are 12x2. After replacing everything they are no better. They are sticking with they are to small for trailer and what Im towing.

powerscol · Mar 14, 2015

Did they clean and re-attach the ground wires and run a wiring test from the plug. Even if small at full gain you should be able to lock them up. As you cant they are not getting the power needed to do that. A way to check is to run a heavy bypass wire to you truck plug and try again.

Diamondpilot · Mar 15, 2015

HK45 said:
Soundguy, The shop that worked on the trailer is a Big RV center. They told me from the get go they feel the brakes are to small for the trailer. They are 12x2. After replacing everything they are no better. They are sticking with they are to small for trailer and what Im towing.

12x2 are standard size on 5.2K, 6K, and 7K axles. You have the right sized brakes.

I'm wondering if the axles are not installed backwards having the right brake on the left and vise versa.

Chris