finish nail puller deluxe.

Hay Dude

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I use blue handled nail nippers and just pull. If I have to bend the nail, the curved jaw face usually doesn’t damage, but if it’s real delicate, I just pin a wood shim under them to protect wood surface. They are a must have in my tool pouch. They come in different sizes.
 

DaveinValdez

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Valdez, Alaska
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Taught Wood Shop for 25 years. I always taught to kids to pull the finish nails through to lessen damage on the good face of the board. Used vice grips, the rounded edge and put a thin scrap piece in between. Almost always worked great.
 

DaveinValdez

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" Almost always worked great."
Cautious optimism?
or
alternate facts?

LOL, It gave me a good chuckle.

I always considered it good teaching year if i kept the stiches under 12. Managed the entire career maintaining the ability to count to ten! 🖐🖐 Retirement is great!
 

Hay Dude

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Only problem with pulling finish nails through the back is if you have a piece of window/door trim mostly nailed on. Then you have to pull it out the way it went in. Usually a grasp and a twist and it’s out....kinda like a wisdom tooth. Lol
 

MossRoad

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Only problem with pulling finish nails through the back is if you have a piece of window/door trim mostly nailed on. Then you have to pull it out the way it went in. Usually a grasp and a twist and it’s out....kinda like a wisdom tooth. Lol
Oooo I've done that a few times. Just a couple nails left in the trim and WHACK!

I've learned over the years I'm more awesome on the demolition crew. :ROFLMAO:
 

downsizingnow48

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This is a bit off topic. There were a few times when I wanted to save a piece of trim with an out-dated profile. The alternative might be to spend a few hundred dollars at a local mill for them to grind a matching set of knives and make some new material.

But mostly it does not make sense to pay someone to pull nails so you can put back up a (usually) cracked and (always) paint chipped old piece of wood that is worth about $2.00. Throw away the old stuff and put up new, you will be money and time and quality ahead.
 

lennyzx11

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Bennington Vermont
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This is a bit off topic. There were a few times when I wanted to save a piece of trim with an out-dated profile. The alternative might be to spend a few hundred dollars at a local mill for them to grind a matching set of knives and make some new material.

But mostly it does not make sense to pay someone to pull nails so you can put back up a (usually) cracked and (always) paint chipped old piece of wood that is worth about $2.00. Throw away the old stuff and put up new, you will be money and time and quality ahead.

Even farther off topic.
I usually just cut the nails off on the back side with a pair of side cutters or my cordless angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on it for a whole bunch.
The little stick out (1/8” approximately) works good to “tack” the piece in place holding it while the real nails get driven.

Pulling them through seems to crack the older dry trim for me so I cut them off and leave the head buried in the wood under the original filler done long ago.

To remove the trim, I use a paint scraper/putty knife jabbed down to protect the wall as a backer and a set of thin 90degree trim bars to get started. Like these.
Pry Bar Set (3-Piece)

 

Scar0B2150

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SW Wa State
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We had oak floors in our house. They were "sanded" to refinish them very poorly, before we bought the house. So I ripped them all up and installed a new bamboo floor.
Now to the point. There were several boards that were still in decent shape that I figured would be good for some projects. But there were several 100 nails still in the boards.
So I came up with this.
A cable tie clamp that you screw into a wall to hold phone lines, a small nut, and a rivet gun.
Worked like a charm! No tear out on either side.
Rivet2.jpg


BracketJig.jpg


Pile.jpg

Coffee table made from the flooring.
Photo11030630.jpg


I also made a dining room butterfly table out of it.
 
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