Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

[MtnViewRanch]

Thank you everyone for all the help. The tractor I'm looking at to buy only has two remotes, and I'm already pushing the mythical budget anyway. I wont be getting a 5k rear-blade thats for sure. It sounds like for the most part the blade will help get me where i need to go, but in the future I'll need a land plane or a box blade. Now if you could all just help convince myself and my wife that I'm not crazy for spending this kind of money. All of this equipment I could borrow from family for free. But you reach a certain age where you want to be self-reliant. And I'm there. It may not be smart...but we can "afford" it. What to do..what to do.[/QUOTE

Before you give up on the $5K blade, get a price on one. Something like the RBT4096 without the hydraulics. I think that you will find out that they are not $5K. Mine was not and I checked on an RBT3584 earlier this year for my smaller tractor and it was under $2500. If your at the end of the budget, you need to really think about what implement to get. DO NOT GET ANYTHING LIGHT WEIGHT. With your tractor you will regret it in short order. With the 2 remotes that you are getting, you may want to consider getting a Top & Tilt setup for your 3pt hitch. A "TnT" set greatly enhances what you will do with your implements.

 

[jenkinsph]

I agree with pclausen on looking for a used blade to save some coins. I would not recommend getting a light blade new or used. Everyone I know has a budget that has limitations, I try to buy one piece at a time for the most part, takes a while to get everything.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I agree with pclausen on looking for a used blade to save some coins. I would not recommend getting a light blade new or used. Everyone I know has a budget that has limitations, I try to buy one piece at a time for the most part, takes a while to get everything.

I agree, there are several people on TBN that have found "killer" deals on these hydraulic actuated blades. They are out there, just far and few between.

 

[LD1]

Yes, you need a HEAVY blade. If you buy a cheap light blade, in no time you will have a cheap pile of scrap that barley resembles a blade.

If you are on a budget, you can skimp on a full hydraulic blade and get one that only angles hydraulically. (or has the ability to add that later). You could use it manually for awhile. But I would for sure add the TNT. With the hydraulic side-link, you have controll over the tilt of the blade. No point in having that be hydraulic on the blade as well. You wont have as much movement with the side-link, but in the rare cases you need more, you can hop off and angle manually. But getting the sidelink to control tilt vs getting it ON the blade, with the one on the blade, it ONLY works with THAT blade. With the sidelink, you can use it on ANY future implements to control tilt.

 

[Furu]

I got my RBT 4596 with full 3 way hydraulics used for less than a new RBT 3584 without hydraulics at all. Look for a used one. The suggestion of going manual now with option to change to hydraulics later is valid as well. As far as only having two remotes in back Landpride makes a solution that I can't think of of the proper name right now but it is basically a diverter kit that allows you to split one remote into two sources. Kind of a hydraulic splitter valve. It is not to bad on cost and allows you to use a three hydraulic system with two rear remotes. You can also do it by yourself using stuff you build from off the shelf.

From a Landpride manual
Hydraulic Selector Valve
Kit Bundle
301-188A . . . . . . . . . HYDRAULIC SELECTOR VALVE
Allows operation of 3 cylinders using 2 duplex outlets.

 

[skoalman12]

I had never really considered the hydraulic option, I quess that would make it less rigid. As since the angle and tilt was hydrualic based, it would be more apt to bleed and "give" to the pressure versus the manual, pin "lock in place" Am I mistaken?

 

[skoalman12]

Also, how much is the Top and Tilt setup..I've never heard of it.

 

[LD1]

Look at post #23 in this thead. (look ip a few posts). THAT is the man you need to speak with regarding the TNT kits.

 

[skoalman12]

Look at post #23 in this thead. (look ip a few posts). THAT is the man you need to speak with regarding the TNT kits.

Ahh, thanks.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Also, how much is the Top and Tilt setup..I've never heard of it.

$623 + shipping costs of $75-$100???. :confused3: I would build the links using 3" dia cylinders with 1 1/2" dia rods. Top link would have a working length or 21"-31". Side link is built to be able to get you an equal amount of tilt to both sides. 2 hose kits made with 3/8" hose, with 1/2" male AG quick connect ends. 2 flow restrictors, these allow for slower smoother adjustments of the hydraulic links. Current lead times are putting ship dates into the first part of January.

A few pictures. The maximum tilt is usually between 9 and 13 degrees to each side, depending on the tractor.


Let me know if you are interested.

 

[skoalman12]

I think im going to get this. Frontier RB2308. 8' Heavy duty, with offset, no hydro kit, with side plates for when i need more of a "box blade".
It weighs 1139 lbs w/o hydraulics.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I think im going to get this. Frontier RB2308. 8' Heavy duty, with offset, no hydro kit, with side plates for when i need more of a "box blade".
It weighs 1139 lbs w/o hydraulics.

You have a lot of road ditches to do, right? You might want to think about getting a 2408 instead of the 2308. The 24 series blades offset 7"-9" further. I would be looking at Land Pride myself with 30" offset, but you already know that from my posts.

 

[JohninCT]

If you have a lot of ditch work to do you are probably on the right track with the rear blade you are looking at. If I going to do over and get one attachment to do multiple jobs in place of blade, box scraper, and rake I would look into getting a TR3 rake. It's pricey but looks like a good replacement for at least 3 attachments. It looks like it would be a great tool for road work.

TR3 Rake - 3pt Tractor Rake - YouTube

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you have a lot of ditch work to do you are probably on the right track with the rear blade you are looking at. If I going to do over and get one attachment to do multiple jobs in place of blade, box scraper, and rake I would look into getting a TR3 rake. It's pricey but looks like a good replacement for at least 3 attachments. It looks like it would be a great tool for road work.

TR3 Rake - 3pt Tractor Rake - YouTube

The TR3 is for smaller tractors. I don't think that it would last to long behind his JD.

 

[schmism]

.....And what I would say is the MtnView showed the best style box blade available, and if possible you should consider a roll-over box blade for all of the above.
YMMV

I have to disagree here for a number of reasons.

1)I have never wanted to scarify ground and not move dirt at the same time. I dont want to have to set up my BB for scarify, then change it back up and make a second cut to move the dirt. Effectively doubling the amount of work it takes to move compacted dirt.
2) I often after dragging a pile of dirt into a low area want to backup and push the dirt flat with the "other side" of the BB. If you wanted to use the cutting edge side you would have to make a change to the rollover to do that.

Ive always considered box blades with hydraulic rippers and hinged back panels to be THE best style of box blade available.

a similar version offered by woods, HB84 (7') weighs in at a hefty 1200lbs.

to put that in perspective, my no-name cheep 5' BB weighs 200 lbs stock. i add another 200lbs of railroad rail on it to more than double its cutting performance.

 

[ljohnson778]

While it's true that a 96" heavy duty all hydraulic blade lists for around $5k, you can pick one up for craigslist if you keep looking. I picked up this one for $1200.

After a little work, it looked like this:

Heck, I'll give you $1300 for it...

Man, you stole it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Well it would be pretty difficult to argue that the RO box blades are better, seeing as they have all but been replaced by any and all professionals. If the RO boxes were the best thing going, all the pros would have them and the major implement manufacturers would not have discontinued them. They were not discontinued because they cost more than the current industrial models. So I have to say that the industrial boxes with the floating rear blade and the hydraulic scarifiers are better than the roll overs.

Now with that said, I prefer my Gannon roll over vs ANY std type of box blade. Imangine using a RO vs a std BB with no hydraulic top link or side link or scarifiers. RO easiely wins out in that senario in my eyes. But that may just be me. Different people like different things, I like to be able to rip down 10". You won't be doing that with a std BB. I like to be able to push a cubic yard of dirt in reverse. You will not do that with ANY std BB, industrial or not. A person that has not ever used a RO box blade probably doesn't realize that it takes only a few seconds to roll the box to where you want it. It's not like you have to stop the tractor and get off and set the teeth to the height that you may need or adjust the top link so that you can smooth out the surface that you are working on. They were state of the art in their day and really have only been replaced as top dog by the industrial box blades of today.

Just my :2cents: based on MY experience, others views will vary.

 

[schmism]

I like to be able to push a cubic yard of dirt in reverse.

As a general recommendation to new uesers of box blades. It is not advisable to push large large amounts of dirt, or worse try to cut dirt like a dozer with the back side of a box blade. The 3pt arms of a tractor are generally not designed to push and many members have found that out the hard way when they bent a lower 3pt link trying to push stuff backward with there box blade.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

As a general recommendation to new uesers of box blades. It is not advisable to push large large amounts of dirt, or worse try to cut dirt like a dozer with the back side of a box blade. The 3pt arms of a tractor are generally not designed to push and many members have found that out the hard way when they bent a lower 3pt link trying to push stuff backward with there box blade.

You are correct, new users need to learn what they are doing. But then not to many new users start out with industrial equipment like what we have been talking about and does take about any punishment that is put in it's way.

We have gotten off track and probably are not helping the OP any more and I apologize for that.

 

[PhysAssist]

Well it would be pretty difficult to argue that the RO box blades are better, seeing as they have all but been replaced by any and all professionals. If the RO boxes were the best thing going, all the pros would have them and the major implement manufacturers would not have discontinued them. They were not discontinued because they cost more than the current industrial models. So I have to say that the industrial boxes with the floating rear blade and the hydraulic scarifiers are better than the roll overs.

Now with that said, I prefer my Gannon roll over vs ANY std type of box blade. Imangine using a RO vs a std BB with no hydraulic top link or side link or scarifiers. RO easiely wins out in that senario in my eyes. But that may just be me. Different people like different things, I like to be able to rip down 10". You won't be doing that with a std BB. I like to be able to push a cubic yard of dirt in reverse. You will not do that with ANY std BB, industrial or not. A person that has not ever used a RO box blade probably doesn't realize that it takes only a few seconds to roll the box to where you want it. It's not like you have to stop the tractor and get off and set the teeth to the height that you may need or adjust the top link so that you can smooth out the surface that you are working on. They were state of the art in their day and really have only been replaced as top dog by the industrial box blades of today.

Just my :2cents: based on MY experience, others views will vary.

Hey MtnView,

Thanks for expressing it better than I can, and with waaaay more experience and credibility.

I hadn't followed your chain of logic before you stated it, but clearly you must be right- the Roll-overs have been replaced by TnT and other [more complicated and expensive] tech.

While at we're no where near the power and volume you can move, we have found that the ability to do one thing, then another, and then a third, all without having to make any adjustments to angle of attack etc, and to be able to change tasks by just doing a stop, drop, and roll, of the BB is awesome!

In addition, when you have a little "underpowered" tractor like our B2320, the ability to scarify, as a single action, move dirt as another, and smooth as a third is amazing. Plus it works well to drag rocks out of the ground so we can pick them up and clear them.

That's why I started to look for a RO-BB after I had read virtually all of the old posts about box blade choice- because I had figured out how under-powered the B2320 is next to the MF's, White's and AC's of my youth.

Finally, IMHO, one way or the other, usually multiple passes are going to be required, the RO is just more efficient doing them one at a time.

Thanks again, for your eloquence!

As you say YMMV!

Thomas