Help with a bridge! Need some good ideas on how to get a bridge in place.

drajj5 · Jul 21, 2014

I think that Pic's are worth their weight in gold..... Please post up several so we can see what you are dealing with. My mind can't envision your particular scenario. Thanks

vpracer · Jul 21, 2014

Thanks for all the awesome ideas. I think I might end up pushing it across the span with my dozer while keeping weight on the end with my tractor? Maybe that will keep it from tipping into the water.

Sorry I cant find any pictures but when I'm back up there. The span across is 28 to 30ft or so. The creek walls are straight down and are about 8' high while the water in the creek is about 5' deep. So it's too deep for any equipment to cross it. I might could push in some bank wall into the creek for a temporary crossing and then work on the other side but that would mean the start of erosion on the banks. I think it would take a whole lot of dirt too. I'd rather avoid that, plus I would lose all that dirt downstream.

I do have trees on the other side but it's very very thick to get thru over there. Of course if I had the dozer on the other side, I could clear it out real quick. Its only 7 miles by road to the other side but it would cost me a $1,000 semi ride to get the dozer over there.

I'm trying to do this on the cheap obviously. That's why I'm hoping to do it with the equipment I have. I know an excavator or crane would make quick work of it. I may end up having to try that option.

Deere Dude · Jul 21, 2014

farmer2009 said:
You have a d6 and are wanting to add a bridge. Use d6 build a low water crossing it will dig its way into and out of the creek. Now you can get what ever you need across the creek to install the bridge. But you don't need the bridge. Now unless you have high water.

X2
Does the creek go dry in the summer or fall? That would be a good time to do the bridge or whatever is decided.
My friend just built a logging road over a creek bed with his D6 right next to a 4 ton low capacity bridge. He dug down on both sides and graded it and graveled it so he could drive logging trucks over the creek bed. Water right now goes over it but only 6" or so. In the spring rains there is 4' of water or so, but by then the logging has to be done until the water stops flowing again.

vpracer · Jul 21, 2014

The fella I'm buying from says he's seen the water level get to about 3' or so. That is almost a doable level for a low water crossing. But then the rains come and viola....my crossing is gone. Maybe that's a temporary answer to get equipment over there to fix a bridge in place. I'll watch the water level as the summer progresses. It's one of those days that "feels like 104" down here.

randy41 · Jul 21, 2014

you could winch it across since you can get to the other side.

CobyRupert · Jul 21, 2014

Are you going to have an abutment to fasten the span to on the far side? Or just rest the span on the bank? Those 50 year floods seem to come more often and might wash it away.
Or will you temporarily rest it on the bank, so that you can then get equipment over to make an abutment?

vpracer · Jul 21, 2014

Yes I will have an abutment on the other side. I was thinking about using one of those concrete barriers that they use during highway construction. Dig down a little then set that in place and put the trailer on top. Not ideal but it's 8 to 10 ft long and will help carry the weight.

jaotguy · Jul 21, 2014

weight of "trailer "? ... possibly put "floatation devices " under the opposite bank end of trailer ( or several as you push it across the stream ...) till it finally reaches the other side and jams into the bank ... then drive across, hook on the new end and position in place ... drive back to original side and repeat ...

remove floatation devices ...

oosik · Jul 22, 2014

Square1 had the same idea I had. I still see a situation that may be a problem. So you are able to get the flatbed across and span the creek. Can you trust the flatbed on the bear earth banks of the creek until you are able to put an abutment on each side. Maybe you can do what Square1 suggests, then go across with something smaller than your dozer to build the abutment on the other side and lift that side onto the new abutment.