How can I hook this up to my tractor

[Diwali]

I’ve never seen this sort of attaching manner. Do I need to just cut it off and weld on a standard receiver?
It’s attached to a large water container
Thank you

It looks fairly standard for old equipment (trailers etc.) and would easily hook up to my ‘ancient’ Case IH 485 hitch. Not sure what type of hitches modern tractors have as I don’t have one!

 

[soundtek57]

If you use an anti-rotation lock and travel limiters to remove the ability of the 3 point to go up or down,
then it will function similar to a fixed drawbar.
If you want to be able to use the 3 point to make it easier to hitch to then it gets a bit more complicated;
View attachment 775137
something like this which has chains to stop the hitch from lifting too far on it's own.

That's a nice arrangement. Did you make that or buy it somewhere? If purchased, where did you find it?
Thanks,

 

[Henry007]

Or he could just hook it up to the draw bar with a pin, like God intended.

View attachment 775141

I don't have a better "draw bar picture" than this, but OP, it's sitting down between the lower link arms, and currently has a clevis hitch in it. You can extend it out, it's currently pushed in all the way.

I would never hitch even a moderately weighted trailer to my 3 pt. That's what the draw bar is for. Can get one at a tractor supply store if your tractor didn't come with one. Mine didn't come with a draw bar, but I bought one from my selling dealer when I bought the tractor.

From this picture I question how much trailer weight is this tractor rated to tow and how much will the loaded trailer weigh?

 

[tjandrews]

On the farm almost all of the equipment is drawbar pulled. It seems to me that it is the main 3 point equipment users are the homeowner, gardener, compact tractor owner.
The main reason we have hitches like the one pictured is that the tractor drawbars are too thick to bolt a trailer ball to,
so the hitch works for the tractors to handle ball or clevis trailer hitches as well as gooseneck trailers.
I have had a few thousand pounds of tongue weight on my hitch pulling a self loading log trailer through fields and wood roads.

Edited; we have limiter chains to prevent the 3 point from lifting too high from the trailer actions

Farms come in all sizes, and varieties. We have a relatively small farm in Central NY, about 200 acres (150 tillable). Our main crops are horse hay and vegetables, and we have a mix of drawbar and 3-point equipment, much of it older, and even a couple of homemade pieces. Drawbar equipment includes harrows, grain drill, corn planter, mower-conditioner, tedder, baler, several wagons, wood splitter, and a couple of trailers. Three-point includes moldboard plows, broadcast fertilizer spreader, field sprayer, tiller, cultivator, grading blade, snowblower. Back when we raised dairy replacement heifers we also had a drawbar corn chopper and manure spreader.

Last tractor we bought originally belonged to a local highway department, where I believe it was mostly used to load stuff onto trucks. After a while they traded it in to a John Deere dealer, and we got it a few days later. The very first thing we noticed when it was delivered was the absence of a drawbar. Completely unacceptable. We contacted the dealer, who contacted the highway department, who unearthed it from whatever forgotten corner they had thrown it into, and it was sent along to us.

 

[Gord Baker]

Any 3ph I have used in the past had solid bars attached to the upper mount from each end of the drawbar to prevent it lifting when not using hydraulic operated attachments. Remember that water weighs about 7.5 lbs per USG. That is a serious hitch for a serious drawbar tractor.

 

[kthompson]

We have a small farm. Have owned and used both 3 pth and draw bar equipment. For the equipment that I had both 3pth and draw bar of, always always preferred the draw bar pull. If tillage it gave a better ride as much of the bouncing was taken by the tillage tires. As to planters, box blades you have the implement fruther behind you riding on its tires and basically the rear tractor tires and the up and down of the front wheels affects the implement very little.

As to making tight turns, yes you might be able to turn into it, depends on the implement and your not paying attention. But it will make turns a 3 pth implement will not and if tillage or planters keep working in the turn.

One thing to watch for in backing with the tongue pull on the 3 pth is also the rear end going down into the dirt.

Oh, one big benefit of the tongue pull in tillage: if you bog down it is easier by far to unhitch from, drive the tractor to solid ground and run a chain back to the implement and pull it to solid ground. Of course, you lower the wheels before unhooking.

 

[Bentrim]

EdGooding has posted a picture of the hitch that my father had when we had a 8N Ford. Notice the arrows pointing to the stay straps which are readily available on on or at TSC. That V shaped hitch that J bolts to the links and bolts to a cross bar give you clearance when you turn. Unfortunately I have not found a source for them.
When tractor were invented there was no 3 point hitch and a solid mounted drawbar was used. It was only good for pulling implements behind the tractor often referred to as pull type implements and was all that was used until Harry Ferguson allowed Henry Ford to use his hydraulic system and hitch on the 9N Ford. Even years later tractor were built with no 3 point hitch and non adjustable wheel tread, they were usually referred to as Western or Standards, When equipped with a 3 point hitch and adjustable wheel tread the were referred to as Row Crop. Many brand specific hitches were tried by the manufacturers until the patent ran out on the three point hitch. Then it became standard with most manufacturers with a few difference. These implements are referred to as mounted or integral.

Sorry for the long post BUT you need to use a drawbar or a complete setup like EdGooding has posted. You cannot use stay straps and a cross bar because the hitch on your trailer will not allow you to turn very sharp without interference, and it could even be dangerous. Also don't know the size of your tractor or the water tank, so don't fill the tank too full and overload your tractor. That could be dangerous.

 

[tjandrews]

I do not have a better pict at this point. I understand now how it works as originally intended to be used and thanks everyone for the info

A word of warning if you are installing a drawbar. If you are using PTO-driven 3-point implements like a tiller or snowblower, be sure to remove the drawbar completely or at least swing it over to the side. If you leave it in the middle and lower the operating implement so that the PTO hits the drawbar, the best result you'll see is a chewed-up PTO shield. The worst, well, let's just say you don't ever want to see that.

 

[Frank Surber]

I can't decide if the original poster did it as a joke or not. The clevis& pin coupling style is the oldest known form of connecting attachments from the first use of domesticated animals to pull any type of wheeled equipment, in some cases still used today from the smallest lawn and garden tractors to the largest articulated farm tractors and dozers although the shapes and designs will vary the principal is still the same, But if your tractor or pickup happens to only be equipped with a receiver type hitch then just remove the ball from the receiver shank. if your tractor has only the 3 pt set up then simply buy a multi holed draw bar and pin it in the arms these are often used to pull attachments either centered or offset from the centerline of the tractor Weight distribution is the primary concern for tractor operational safety too much tongue weight can cause a dangerous back flip or the sleeping tractor syndrome.

 

[sea2summit]

On the farm almost all of the equipment is drawbar pulled. It seems to me that it is the main 3 point equipment users are the homeowner, gardener, compact tractor owner.
The main reason we have hitches like the one pictured is that the tractor drawbars are too thick to bolt a trailer ball to,
so the hitch works for the tractors to handle ball or clevis trailer hitches as well as gooseneck trailers.
I have had a few thousand pounds of tongue weight on my hitch pulling a self loading log trailer through fields and wood roads.

Edited; we have limiter chains to prevent the 3 point from lifting too high from the trailer actions

Only reason I keep my arms on anymore is for the woodchipper.