How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?

[s219]

How often/far do you plan on towing? I you won't be doing much, why not buy an older 3/4 or 1 ton pickup for towing? There are plenty to be had in the $5k and less which would suit you just fine if you are only towing several thousand miles a year or less. A lot cheaper than buying something new that you don't need most of the time just to haul on occasion.

Yeah, that is definitely an option. I have looked at a few used trucks and SUVs, but there haven't been any slam dunks yet. I think I will know it when I see it.

I will be towing 4-8 times per month, off and on, for the next 6-10 months. It's 15 miles each way, mostly easy driving. Though, if I have a good reliable truck, it will likely get a lot more non-towing use while we build the house. I'd likely use the truck for everything I currently depend on a utility trailer for.

 

[jeffsw6]

If you are only planning to tow ~5000# you can easily get a used 1/2 ton gasser for a few thousand dollars. If you like that Acura RDX don't spend a bunch of money changing your daily driver, just get an extra work truck, a cheap one! Maybe I am lucky that there is a Ford plant here (and lots of employees with "A plan" so they can get new trucks pretty cheap) but I couldn't throw a rock without hitting an F150 with a for sale sign on it.

 

[dkhntr04]

Yeah, that is definitely an option. I have looked at a few used trucks and SUVs, but there haven't been any slam dunks yet. I think I will know it when I see it.

I will be towing 4-8 times per month, off and on, for the next 6-10 months. It's 15 miles each way, mostly easy driving. Though, if I have a good reliable truck, it will likely get a lot more non-towing use while we build the house. I'd likely use the truck for everything I currently depend on a utility trailer for.

I'd for sure say go with an older pickup with that situation. A half ton would work great for your light loads as has been mentioned. If you are building a house, a work pickup would be a very nice thing to have around.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do!

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have to agree that a used F-150 is the way to go. Look for one with a automatic and the 5.4L with 3.73 gears. Many have 3.55 gears and are just not as up to towing. Few, and I mean a very limited few, have 4.10 gears which would be a nice find. I have had 6 F-150's since 1997 and loved them all. My favorite was a regular cab 4x4 with 4.10 gears. It was a stump puller.

Now for the work you are wanting to do. Have you ever ran a small tractor? I think you are being a little ambitious. My small tractor is 5,600# and it would be tough with my soil conditions to do 1/10 of what you mention. Yes, I can grade the yard out and spread some gravel but to cut in a drive, ect, that should be left up to the big guys. I think doing the final clean up, landscaping, some grading, pulling small trees, ect are in reach but the rest may be like digging a pool with a spoon. Yes, it can be done but will take you a long time.

For under $10,000 you can get a good used backhoe, a real one like a Case 580 or New Holland. This will get lots of work done and after the economy turns in 2-3 years with a Republican in the White House you can sell it for what you have in it or more. They are abundant around here now with the housing slump. You would just leave it at the building site and would not need a tow vehicle or trailer.

Chris

 

[RobertN]

Keep your SUV and get a older pickup. Mine was an '80 F250 4x4. It ran good, and in good shape mechanically. But, the interior was not great(tore out carpet and put in rubber floor mat among other stuff). And, the body had dings/ small dents, faded scratched paint. Perfect for thrashing around the property hauling gravel, refuse, tractor ect. It was not wired for trailer brakes, but that was pretty simple to do. Oh, and I updated from an AM radio to AM/FM/cassette...

And, it cost about $2k. 3/4 ton 4x4. Not pretty. Added some dings and scratches myself. And pulled stumps, hauled junk, gravel, dirt, firewood, etc, etc, etc.

I will be towing 4-8 times per month, off and on, for the next 6-10 months. It's 15 miles each way, mostly easy driving. Though, if I have a good reliable truck, it will likely get a lot more non-towing use while we build the house. I'd likely use the truck for everything I currently depend on a utility trailer for.

 

[RobertN]

I'd look cheaper, and older if he only has to go 15 miles. Sure, there will be other chores for the truck. Heck, an 80's F150 with a big 6 or a 302 would work great. Cheap. And if that rock he just dropped in the bed leaves a bigger dent than expected, no big deal.

Nice find would be a big straight six with a granny box. Put that puppy in low range, 4x4, and granny gear. There's ya a stump puller

After the property is cleared, the tar is beat out of the truck, then go spend your $20-40k on a newer F150/Ram1500/Titan whatever.

I have to agree that a used F-150 is the way to go. Look for one with a automatic and the 5.4L with 3.73 gears. Many have 3.55 gears and are just not as up to towing. Few, and I mean a very limited few, have 4.10 gears which would be a nice find. I have had 6 F-150's since 1997 and loved them all. My favorite was a regular cab 4x4 with 4.10 gears. It was a stump puller.

 

[lstinthot]

I did the straps for a while when I got my tractor. Then got the bug to get some chains. I use two 20' chains and 4 binders. I do not cross in the front, only go out from one side of the front bumper/frame hole to the side and same from the back. I go out from the draw bar area. Chain starts at one side of trailer to tractor back to starting side just enough to catch binder then back through drawbar hole to other side of trailer. I just drop a loop through the drawbar hole to catch the binders on both sides.

The chains are overkill for what is required by law. Took a while to find what is required and for light loads like we are hauling only two straps or chains are required. The law does say you could secure it in accordance with the heavy equipment requirements (duh) buy not required.

My tractor and backhoe weighs around 5500# - 6000#. The straps worked pretty good, just did not like them getting rough around the tractor edges. Wife is making me some covers to put over the tractor to keep the chains from scratching the paint.

I would also agree to get a used beater truck for the construction of your house and hauling of your tractor.

best of luck

Cargo Securement Rules - Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration

 

[s219]

Now for the work you are wanting to do. Have you ever ran a small tractor? I think you are being a little ambitious. My small tractor is 5,600# and it would be tough with my soil conditions to do 1/10 of what you mention. Yes, I can grade the yard out and spread some gravel but to cut in a drive, ect, that should be left up to the big guys. I think doing the final clean up, landscaping, some grading, pulling small trees, ect are in reach but the rest may be like digging a pool with a spoon. Yes, it can be done but will take you a long time.

For under $10,000 you can get a good used backhoe, a real one like a Case 580 or New Holland. This will get lots of work done and after the economy turns in 2-3 years with a Republican in the White House you can sell it for what you have in it or more. They are abundant around here now with the housing slump. You would just leave it at the building site and would not need a tow vehicle or trailer.

Chris

Because of permitting requirements in my county, I can't get into full fledged "land disturbance" without certification and putting up a surety for erosion/sedimentation. It's too much hassle. So I plan to do all the tree felling and small scale site prep (under 2500 sq. ft land disturbance is allowable without permit), but will leave stump pulling and major work to a contractor who is certified and insured/bonded for erosion/sedimentation work. I did briefly think about a used backhoe (ran a 310 when I was younger working construction) but it doesn't make sense for the limited work I will do on this new land.

What I am thinking is that the upfront driveway entrance/culvert work will be small scale, as well as grading/topsoil and driveway/gravel work at the end of construction. For all that stuff, the B2920 should be OK with a FEL and box blade. Though I may also pick up a land plane for the driveway.

 

[lstinthot]

Because of permitting requirements in my county, I can't get into full fledged "land disturbance" without certification and putting up a surety for erosion/sedimentation. It's too much hassle. So I plan to do all the tree felling and small scale site prep (under 2500 sq. ft land disturbance is allowable without permit), but will leave stump pulling and major work to a contractor who is certified and insured/bonded for erosion/sedimentation work. I did briefly think about a used backhoe (ran a 310 when I was younger working construction) but it doesn't make sense for the limited work I will do on this new land.

What I am thinking is that the upfront driveway entrance/culvert work will be small scale, as well as grading/topsoil and driveway/gravel work at the end of construction. For all that stuff, the B2920 should be OK with a FEL and box blade. Though I may also pick up a land plane for the driveway.

I am not sure if excavators charge more for pulling stumps that are cut low to ground vice pushing over and having stump pop up then cutting off stump. Don't know if you would be saving money if stumps are still in ground. When I priced my clearing of land to put a pool in, most of the money was in gettting the stumps out, I bought a track loader to play with for that, ended up selling it for about what I bought it for 3 years later.

 

[s219]

I am not sure if excavators charge more for pulling stumps that are cut low to ground vice pushing over and having stump pop up then cutting off stump.

Most of these trees are pines, so how you tackle them depends on whether they are being harvested for pulp, disposed of, or kept for other things. I plan to leave high stumps on anything that needs to be removed from the ground. Most of the trees are 8-12" d.b.h., so a 3-4' stump is good in most cases. Because pines have a taproot and snap easily, you can't push too high up anyhow.

 

[284 International]

Double X. Front left tractor tied to front Right of the trailer. Front right tractor to front left trailer, Rear right tractor to rear left trailer, rear left tractor to rear right trailer.

I don't think it's really an issue for the scenario here, but I don't think the X-style is the best way to tie things down. Usually the tie downs are at much more drastic angles than would otherwise be preferred, so aren't good at holding the machine front to back compared to aligning them more along the front to rear axis of the trailer. This means the load shifts more, or, to keep the same resistance to motion, the tie down points and the tie down itself has to be both stronger and tighter.

Additionally, the X-style can allow the load to turn over, off of the side of the trailer if extreme conditions are encountered. Adding a single tie in the middle going straight front, and straight back, can alleviate these concerns, or simply using 4 tie downs and running left rear tractor to left rear of the trailer, and so forth.

It's probably not absolutely necessary to do it that way, and some tie downs are better than none at all, but the X-style is not as secure as it appears at first.

 

[mjncad]

i think that the actual model he listed later would be no more than 2500lb with the loader and fluids. kubota lists the tractor at 1550lb - i had to check multiple places, because that just seems ridiculously light. my 24hp jd770 lists 2100lb, and i can't imagine how a similar sized one can be 550lb lighter.

Kubota generally builds their tractors lighter in weight than comparable JD rigs. That was one reason; but not the prime reason I bought JD over Kubota.

For the money, looks like the 16' trailer is a no brainer. I can get one new for $2295, though I will certainly shop around for used first.

Anyhow, a $16K tractor purchase is blossoming into a $40K life changing event.

I think getting the 16' as a minimum is a good idea. Now this can get out of hand quickly; but would an 18' be that much more? I'm not trying to talk you into a 30' tri-axle gooseneck mind you. :laughing:

As for your cost observation...everything is like that, cameras, computers, machine tools, cars, women.

If you are building a house, a work pickup would be a very nice thing to have around.

Unless you are super careful using your truck, having a beater for house building chores makes sense. You can always unload it after the house is built and the wife says, "Honey, when are getting rid of that ugly old truck?"

Because of permitting requirements in my county, I can't get into full fledged "land disturbance" without certification and putting up a surety for erosion/sedimentation. It's too much hassle. So I plan to do all the tree felling and small scale site prep (under 2500 sq. ft land disturbance is allowable without permit), but will leave stump pulling and major work to a contractor who is certified and insured/bonded for erosion/sedimentation work. I did briefly think about a used backhoe (ran a 310 when I was younger working construction) but it doesn't make sense for the limited work I will do on this new land.

Good grief, you sound like you live in a Demorrhoid controlled state like California where the operative word is "NO!"

 

[s219]

Good grief, you sound like you live in a Demorrhoid controlled state like California where the operative word is "NO!"

Man, you don't even know how nuts it is. I do understand some of the rationale behind it though. In this particular area (the Chesapeake Bay region in Virginia) they had to enact some tough standards to curb erosion and sedimentation problems. Basically, because of over-zealous development in the last century, everything has slowly been washing into the Bay. So by the time I can afford land here in 2011, all the easy properties are long gone and all new land sales are subject to very tight restrictions for land clearing and development. 20 years ago it would have been a lot easier.

The land is on a minor tidal river about 60 miles inland, but it's part of the Bay watershed so we have to live with the rules. You can come back and ask me in a couple years if it was all worth it. I think the key is to know what we're getting into ahead of time, so we were very careful about soil tests, surveying, and clarifying rules with the county before closing on the land.

Thankfully, soil tests show that we can get by with a traditional gravity-feed septic system, so that is a load off my mind. In cases where an alternative system is needed, the cost can get out of hand, and even make the land impractical to build on.

 

[wcampbell47]

My trailer has tandem 3500 lb axles and is rated at 5000lbs. My F150 is rated at 5000 lbs towing. My B3200 weighs in at 1800 lbs. Add the FEL and any 3 pt attachments. I'm pretty safe at coming in under 5000 lbs.

Will the gate hold your tractor?

If all the above is a go then TSC has various ratchet straps. I use two ratchet straps that are about 2.5 inches wide. I also use two axle tie downs which I put around the FEL lower frame. I lower my FEL and put a bit of downward pressure, set the brakes, lower the 3 point and strap the tractor on.

I have been towing for 5 years with no mishaps. I normally don't drive over 60mph when towing. Once towed 250 miles one way to my son-in-laws.

 

[cub]

hi, I like to use 4x4 in front and behind wheels and then take 2x4 perpendicular to 4x4 and screw 2x4 into 4x4; besides the binders and chains. I dont like anything on wheels rolling.

 

[flusher]

I can definitely cover the costs of the tractor and trailer with the savings, and my wife even agrees with me there. It's that new tow vehicle that is going to be the problem. I can get a good deal on an F-150 and depreciate it with tax deductions through my business, but there will still be at least a $25K outlay to buy the truck when all is said and done. That's a tougher one to swallow.

I went through the same exercise as you last year--needed to replace my 2001 F150 with a 3/4 or 1T pickup. Couldn't find what I was looking for at a decent price but did find a nice 2004 Isuzu NPR/EFI stakebed (8 x 14 ft bed) on eBay with 49,500 miles, 6L LQ4 GMC V-8 gasser for $11K. It's GVWR is 12,000 lb and GCWR is 18,000 lb. I can load my parade tractors (3500 lb max) onto the stakebed or hitch up an 16 ft equipment trailer and pull a load.



Since you have a business perhaps a stakebed would be a better choice than a pickup. I would shop around before dropping $25K and having regrets later.

Good luck.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

hi, I like to use 4x4 in front and behind wheels and then take 2x4 perpendicular to 4x4 and screw 2x4 into 4x4; besides the binders and chains. I dont like anything on wheels rolling.

I've seen guys bring $1/4 million equipment into our food plant secured down like that. It seems like a lot of work for regular hauling of a tractor. It takes almost 20 minutes to load or unload equipment.

I lower implements, set the brake and use 9K lb. straps to secure my <3K lb. tractor. With a tilt deck and pre-sized straps I can load or unload in under 2 minutes. The only time I've had something move was when I had my 7 year old son help hold the end of a strap while I tightened it on the other end. He put the hook on a wiring harnes instead of a stake pocket. The load moved several inches, but the single remaining strap prevented any catastrophe. Lesson learned: Check the load myself after it's all tied down.

 

[s219]

I went through the same exercise as you last year--needed to replace my 2001 F150 with a 3/4 or 1T pickup. Couldn't find what I was looking for at a decent price but did find a nice 2004 Isuzu NPR/EFI stakebed (8 x 14 ft bed) on eBay with 49,500 miles, 6L LQ4 GMC V-8 gasser for $11K. It's GVWR is 12,000 lb and GCWR is 18,000 lb. I can load my parade tractors (3500 lb max) onto the stakebed or hitch up an 16 ft equipment trailer and pull a load.

Nice Isuzu! I drove a cab like that back in the late 80s when working construction, but it had a Jerr-Dan aluminum rollback bed (with nice red oak planking). We used it to move equipment and guard shacks, and occasionally cars. It had a large turbo-diesel four cylinder under the cab. It was a great truck. I would kill for something like that now. You could winch up equipment/cars and then snug with some chains at the back.

 

[sacsr]

I will throw my 2 cents into the mix. When I bought my yanmar 187D with a fel a year ago, I went looking for a trailer.....found a tandem axle 16ft at a good price so ended up with it.....after a year of pulling it 25 miles one way to my land....wish I had bought a 18ft trailer instead....just need a little more space for other implements etc.....use my 2000 Ford Expedition 4x4 with the 5.4 without any issues......these vehicles are pretty cheap now.....mine has 197,000 and still kicking......you may can find one of these cheaper than a truck.

 

[grsthegreat]

I use 2 sets of 3/8" chain with retching binders. Its not going anywheres.

If the frame is steel, they can add binder hooks easily enough.

Now as far as moving a tractor without securing it......thats plain STUPID.